Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 1000m a.s.l
Starting down Rising Sap - Fr. 6a+ ** © Martin73
A good, popular crag. Basically the quarry is a large overgrown box, although all but a few of the routes are vegetation free and in cleared areas. Apart from the routes in the main left-hand bay the routes dry quickly and are slime free. The rock is mostly very good except for the trad routes in the central section. All the sports routes are well equipped, although some have only a single BB at present so topping out/abseiling from trees is strongly recommended. The left-hand section is a series of orange walls and a good sun trap in winter. The right-hand section by contrast is shady and can be damp, but does stay dry in light drizzle due to the trees. Between these two sections are some short easy slabs for the novice sports climber and a short terrace - the Sports For All Wall. There is also a poor natural sandstone edge, up and left from the quarry proper and a recently re-discovered better one some 300m to the right.
Tends to stay wet, and is broken in places. However has some good faces with good routes up to 45m, Pastis On Ice (Fr7a+) and Whiter Than White Wall (Fr7a+).
If on foot, take the train to Mountain Ash, and leave the station onto the first road encountered. Turn left, and follow the road out of the town for about 400m to a track crossing through an old works. Go through this and continue over a footbridge. From the end of this footbridge cross the road and walk straight up to the main road (A4059). Turn right and proceed for about 400m to the last few houses in Mountain Ash. Turn left onto the estate and immediately left again, then take the first right to an obvious track leading uphill past some garages. Where the track veers off right, scramble up the bank to a path and follow this rightwards to enter the quarry.
If coming by car, simply follow the A4059, and take the first turning right after the first few houses to reach the same spot. If you pass a garage on the left you have gone too far. It is possible to park on the estate.
Found by the A4059 Abercynon-Aberdare road: from Abercynon a row of houses on the R starts Mountain Ash. Take the first R turn, and park in the first row of terraces. Be considerate how and where you park.
Take the path into the woods: the quarry is on it.
If you are using SAT NAV try postcode: CF45 4HH. the main street you can park on is Mary Street. Park near house numbers 1 - 20. Track up to the crag should be visible.
|18/02/2015 - "Whiter Than White Wall" has been cleaned and is currently in condition, however i am fairly certain a hold below crux has come off. Maybe I am weak on the moves but feels harder the Ripe and Ready crux which goes at 7b+.|
dmacmorris - 18/Feb/15
|Currently recieving a 2014 facelift (after the BMC 2008 facelift).|
alan rosier - 16/Jul/14
|Not awful and good if you're local, but it was all a little loose and overgrown.|
Jon_Warner - 15/Apr/14