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These details were last updated on 20/Jun/2011

Mountain Ash Quarry

Rhondda Cynon Taff, WALES

Climbs 75 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 1000m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
A good, popular crag. Basically the quarry is a large overgrown box, although all but a few of the routes are vegetation free and in cleared areas. Apart from the routes in the main left-hand bay the routes dry quickly and are slime free. The rock is mostly very good except for the trad routes in the central section. All the sports routes are well equipped, although some have only a single BB at present so topping out/abseiling from trees is strongly recommended. The left-hand section is a series of orange walls and a good sun trap in winter. The right-hand section by contrast is shady and can be damp, but does stay dry in light drizzle due to the trees. Between these two sections are some short easy slabs for the novice sports climber and a short terrace - the Sports For All Wall. There is also a poor natural sandstone edge, up and left from the quarry proper and a recently re-discovered better one some 300m to the right.

Tends to stay wet, and is broken in places. However has some good faces with good routes up to 45m, Pastis On Ice (Fr7a+) and Whiter Than White Wall (Fr7a+).

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.0mm rain
Sun
10 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
10 °C
22 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
8 °C
14 kph

0.1mm rain
Sunny periods
9 °C
16 kph

2.9mm rain
Mainly cloudy
10 °C
26 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Spittle JaccuzziHVS 5b 1
2Fist In ViceHVS 4c 1
320 Years In LlangattockE1 5c 1
4Getting FatterS 2
5The Spam TreeS 4
6Another Toss GobblerVD 3
7Crocker's PotS 3
8Pork Pie DrillerS 3
9What's The Arc De Triomphe For Then?E1 5c 4
10The Old FirmE3 6a *7
11Coggers Lane (John You Prick)E2 5c 6
12Beef Tasting StrawberriesS 4
13Outspan7a+ **15
14Hot Cross Guns7b+ **2
15Ripe And Ready7b+ *3
16Pastis On Ice7a+ **13
17Pastis On Ice Direct7a+ *8
18Cointreau7a+ **15
19Choice CutE2 5c 1
20Blacker Than Black6c+ 1
21New WaveV2 *1
22Branch Manager7a 4
23Branch Manager Sdsf6C+ ***2
24Totally Stumped6c+ 3
25Molybdenum Man6c *30
26Ferndale Revisited7b *2
27Dusk7a+ *9
28I Came6a+ *41
29He Sawed5 33
30Into The Valley Of DeathS 4c 2
31I Conkered6a+ 8
32Taking The Pith2 3
33Bring Back the Birch4 16
34Under The Axe6b+ 14
35No Barking Up This Tree4+ 23
36A Sight For Saw Eyes6a+ 14
37Carpet BombingVS 4c 3
38TragedyE1 5a *13
 Climb nameGradex
39The Future Holds7b *6
40BelgiumVS 4c 5
41NarcissiE1 5b *6
42Rising Sap6a+ **34
43Weeping Stump5 *23
44Left Edge6a *1
45A Clip Round The Year7a+ 1
46No Chips Round Here7b **5
47Helmet Man's Day OffS 1
48Ant FrenzyS 1
49HomebaseE1 5b 1
50Little PolvierVS 5a 4
51Double Bore6b+ *6
52Slap Happy6c+ 3
53Sport For All7b+ 6
54Sporting Supplement6a+ *12
55Sunday SportE3 5c 1
56Abdominal Showman7a+ 1
57A Certain Peace6b **35
58Misadventure7a **28
59A Far Cry From SquamishE4 6a 2
60The Theory And Practice Of Glue Sniffing6c+ *4
61Jetlagged6c *2
62Sennapod CornerHVS 5a *5
63Whiter Than White Wall7a+ *3
64A Load Of RubbishE2 5b *1
65Valleys Initiative7a **8
66Grave Concern6a+ 1
67Final Plot6a+ 1
68Ain't As EfficalE3 5c 1
69The EntrepeneurHVS 5a 1
70Dr. Foster And Confused Of GloucesterVS 4b 1
71Vertical DrainHVS 4c 1
7220,000 Llangattocks Under The SeaHS 4b 1
73Once More Off To The Beach Dear Friends...HVS 5a *1
74Angel Flakes LH VariantHVS 5a **1
75Angel FlakesVS 4c *1
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Access notes
If on foot, take the train to Mountain Ash, and leave the station onto the first road encountered. Turn left, and follow the road out of the town for about 400m to a track crossing through an old works. Go through this and continue over a footbridge. From the end of this footbridge cross the road and walk straight up to the main road (A4059). Turn right and proceed for about 400m to the last few houses in Mountain Ash. Turn left onto the estate and immediately left again, then take the first right to an obvious track leading uphill past some garages. Where the track veers off right, scramble up the bank to a path and follow this rightwards to enter the quarry.

If coming by car, simply follow the A4059, and take the first turning right after the first few houses to reach the same spot. If you pass a garage on the left you have gone too far. It is possible to park on the estate.

Found by the A4059 Abercynon-Aberdare road: from Abercynon a row of houses on the R starts Mountain Ash. Take the first R turn, and park in the first row of terraces. Be considerate how and where you park.

Take the path into the woods: the quarry is on it.

If you are using SAT NAV try postcode: CF45 4HH. the main street you can park on is Mary Street. Park near house numbers 1 - 20. Track up to the crag should be visible.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Not awful and good if you're local, but it was all a little loose and overgrown.
Jon_Warner - 15/Apr/14