UKC

Climbs 63
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 391m a.s.l
Faces NE

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View towards Llangattock '06 © graham knott

Crag features

The very RH end of the escarpment. Routes up to 24m, notably Storm (E2 5b**).

Approach notes

DO NOT climb in the areas between OS ref SO 195157 to SO 183165 - these lie in the Craig-y-Cilau nature reserve and need a permit.

As for the LH end of the escarpment, but follow the nature track to the beginnings of this section - Crackin Wall.

No Access Issues

An extensive escarpment - part quarried in a scenic position overlooking Crickhowell. The vast majority of the routes are very adventurous and traditional. Many are typical of their type. After a meeting of local climbers, the BMC South Wales Area passed a vote that the crag would remain as a traditional venue with leader placed protection and would not be developed as a sports climbing venue. It was agreed that at some time in the future (and depending on landowner consent), some agreed sections could be equiped with bolted lower offs avoid the need to top out onto loose muddy slopes. Some of these routes have now been equipped with lower offs (see 2020 Gilwern Guide). There are belay stakes in place at some locations. Users are advised that the landowner has not agreed to the  placing of any belay stakes and takes no responsibility for their suitability as climbing anchors.  

 

A very respectable crag, good gear, beautiful views. Easy walk in, Midge+++, steep routes lots of small roofs. Worth a couple of visits.
joolskilly - 05/Jun/09
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