Roaches Lower Tier

Climbs 327 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 410m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

Route grades and numbers (especially bouldering) are based on BMC The Staffordshire Gritstone Guide (2003)

Access notes
Very limited parking below the crag. There is a park and ride from Tittesworth Reservoir, off the A53 Buxton to Leek road (SK 993601), weekends only, May to September. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SPRING BOULDERS  
 BOG BOULDER  
3Bog Arete LeftV0- 4b 75
4Bog Arete RightV3 6a 14
5Pebbles and SeamV2 6a *42
6Bog MonsterV2 *72
7Bog StandardV1 5c *16
8Blind FlakeVB 53
9Bog SlabV0- 4a 64
10PoxyV0- 4c 97
11The SwingerV0+ 5a 59
12Runnel AreteVB *53
13Undercut WallV0+ 5a 54
14Boo MeringueV1 5b 12
 SPRING BOULDER  
16Spring SlabV5 6b **97
17C3POV7 6c ***63
18Boba FettV8 6c * 
19BobareteV7 6b *9
20Easy WallVB 77
21SprungV3 6a 58
22SpratV0+ 5a 88
23Sprung - Standing versionV1 5b 5
24SpriteV0+ 5a 66
 LITTLE BOULDER  
26Spring Roll LeftV2 23
27Spring RollV0 5a *67
28Slabby SeamV0 4a 78
29Blunt AreteV0- 4b 68
 GENTLE SLAB BOULDER  
31Low SlopesV1 5b 11
32The NoseV1 5b 23
33Wavy SlabV0+ 5a 40
34Centre SlabV0+ 5a 34
35Gentle SlabV0- 4b 57
36Slab to summitV0- 5a 51
 THE RAMP BOULDER  
38The Ramp (Melt)V2 5c *4
39Ramphole of the RoachesV2 6a 19
40FlakesV0 5b 12
41Pod 'n' UpV2 5c 7
42Mid PodV1 5c 5
 LITTLE SUMMIT  
44Summit AreteV0- 4b 57
45MantelV0- 4b 33
46A Nother MantelV0+ 5a 25
 SHOTHOLE BOULDER  
48ViolenceV2 5c *28
49ImpotenceV2 5c *25
50LoutV1 5b *20
51The ClawV2 5c *10
52Seconds OutV2 5b *32
53The GrindV6 6b *3
54Skinned RabbitV4 6b *7
55Skinned Rabbit Sit startV6 *6
56Sin LeftV6 6b 2
57Sin (Arete on Right)f6C **4
58Mr NiceV4 *4
59Mr LeftV5 6b  
60Arete on LeftV3 5c 4
61Ledgy AreteV0 4c 18
 THE FLY BOULDER  
63The FlyV4 6a *10
64The LurchV5 6b *12
65Heave Hof6A 1
66Scoop and RampV0- 5a 19
67Easy SlabV0- 4b 21
 LOWER TIER BOULDERS  
 DOUGLESS BOULDER  
70Particle ExchangeV6 6b * 
71Doug-lessV4 6a *1
72The RumourV7 6c 1
73Sketchy RibV2 5c 4
74Slabby AreteV0- 4b 14
75Chips and Flakef6A 10
76Green RibV0 4b 4
77Scratchy ScoopV3 6a 3
 BOULDER BEHIND  
79Lip TraverseV5 6b 2
80MantelV4 6b 6
 PINE TREE SLAB  
82Boss SlabV0 5a 270
83Pine SlabV2 5c 330
84Pine CrackV0- 4a 457
85Squeezy SlabV1 5b *275
86Up ChipsV0- 4a 434
87ArchV0 5a 217
88Pine AreteV0 5a 191
89Pine Arete RightV0 5a 148
90Green SlabV3 6a 69
91Pine MartinV0 5a 290
 GREENER BOULDER  
93Easy RibV0 4b 55
94The Green GreenieV1 5c 114
95The Greener TraverseV3 5c **271
96Greener ReverseV1 5+ 44
97Greener MantelV2 6a 96
98Greener Mantel Sit StartV4 6b 26
99GreenerateV4 6b 73
 TWIN FLAKES  
101Henious MantelV7 6c 12
102Heinous MantelV5 6b 5
103Theo all the wayf7A  
104The Uppercut (with arete)V3 6a 83
105The UppercutV4 6a 35
106The UndercutterV3 6a 148
107The GrasperV0 5a 156
108Green MantelV0- 4c 34
 THE BIG BLOCK  
110Black Nook SlabV0 4c 204
111Black Nook AreteV0 5a 164
112Pockets AreteV1 5b 119
113Three Pocket SlabV3 6a **753
114Parental DutiesV8 6c *3
115Heathery LedgeV2 5c 19
116Big Block GullyV0- 4a 159
117Sketchy WallV1 5b 7
118Bow CrackV3 5c 39
119Flake AreteV0 5a 146
120Big Block AreteV0 4c 103
121The Undercut TraverseV4 6a 23
122Stretch and MantelV5 6b ***188
123Undercut DynoV8 6c *76
124Stretch LeftV4 6a *92
125Classic AreteV0 5a **506
 BLISTER SLAB  
127Left SlabV0- 4a 375
128Slab 2V0- 4a 241
129Blister's SisterV0- 4c 383
130Blister SlabV0+ 5a 372
131Back Slab RightV0- 4a 334
 FAR LEFT LOWER TIER  
133Malted Milkf6C **1
134Boobidgef6A 1
135Double DV5 * 
136Drop BearsHVS 5b 2
137Slabotomyf7C ***2
138Beware CoconutsVS 4b 1
139Burrito DeluxeE3 5c  
140National HeroE2 5c 1
 ASCENT OF MAN BUTTRESS  
142Snap, Crackle and Andy PoppE1 5c 1
143Apache DawnE5 6c *2
144Catastrophe InternationaleE5 6c ***7
145Slippery JimHVS 5b 69
146Bareback RiderE4 6b *19
147K.P. NutsE7 6c *1
148Ascent of ManE3 6a ***109
149Ascent of WomanE3 6a *11
150Traverse of ManV2 5c 46
151Ascent of Man StartV2 6a **50
152Bow CrackV2 5c 13
153Days of Future PassedE3 6b *4
 TECK CRACK BUTTRESS  
155The AspirantE3 5c *6
156AckitHVS 5b **121
157Just For TodayE6 7a ** 
158Barriers in TimeE6 6b ***14
159Sunday at ChapelE6 6c **1
160Ant Livesf7A 6c *10
161Inertia Reelf7A 6c ***8
162TurboV11 7a *1
163Thudf7B 6c *13
164Teck Crack Directf6C 6b *59
165Teck Crack Super Directf7A+ 6c *1
166The Dignity of Labourf6C 6b **8
167A Modest ProposalV6 6b *6
168Teck CrackE1 5c *54
169Joe's Hanging CrackE3 6a *3
170Skydivin'V4 6b *1
171Inertia Reel Traversef8A 6c ***1
172Lightning CrackHVS 5b *30
173Mushin'f8A+ ***4
174Boozy TraverseV8 6b *5
175Pindels NumbE4 6b *3
176Crystal GrazerE5 6a **4
177HeredityE6 6c 1
178A Fist Full of CrystalsE6 6b ***7
179DougE8 6c **3
180Fred's CafeVS 5a 16
 YONG BUTTRESS  
182Yong AreteS 3c *129
183Poisonous PythonHVS 5b *42
184YongHVD 4a **1033
185Something Better ChangeE2 5b *256
186WisecrackVS 4b *44
187HypothesisHVS 5b **48
188Destination EarthE7 6b **2
 BENGAL BUTTRESS  
190Cannonball CrackS 4b *162
191GraffitiE1 5b *4
192Dorothy's DilemmaE1 5a **80
193Bengal ButtressHVS 4c **125
194SchooliesE3 5c *8
195StepsE5 6b  
 RAVEN ROCK  
197Crack of GloomE1 5b **41
198Raven Rock Gully Left-handVS 4b *178
199Raven Rock GullyD **427
200SwingerVS 4c 30
201SidewinderE5 6a  
202Via DolorosaVS 4c ***822
203Via Dolorosa VariationsS 4a **23
204Valkyrie DirectHVS 5b **107
205MatineeHVS 5b **149
206The GutterV8 6c *76
207ValkyrieVS 4c ***1725
208Valkyrie cornerHS 4b 153
209Valkyrie Corner Flake VariantHS 4c *7
210Northern ComfortE6 6c **1
211Licence to KillE5 6b ***3
212Licence to RunE4 6a *19
213Licence to LustE4 6a * 
 THE SWAN WALL  
215Eugene's AxeE2 5c *33
216PebbledashHVS 5a **491
217Secrets of DanceE4 6a *3
218Against the GrainE6 7a ***2
219Thing on a SpringE6 7a ***3
220Up the SwaneeE4 5c **13
221The SwanE3 5c ***79
222Swan BankE4 5c *3
223The MincerHVS 5b ***375
 SMEAR TEST SLAB  
225Smear TestE3 6a **128
226PincerVS 5a *425
227Cold BloodE6 6b 1
228Kicking BirdE4 6a **19
229BloodstoneE5 6b **3
230BloodspeedE6 6b ** 
231Guano GullyHS 4b 92
232Mousey's MistakeE2 5b 3
 ELEGY SLAB  
234A Little PeculiarE6 7a ** 
235ElegyE2 5c ***316
236Clive CoolheadE5 6b **13
237The BulgerVS 4c *263
238Dirty Wee RougeE3 6a  
239Fledglings ClimbS 4a *612
240Wing WingHS 4a 33
241Little ChimneyM 238
242Battery CrackVS 4b 37
243Lucas ChimneyS 4a *107
 KESTREL BUTTRESS  
245GoldcrestE7 6c *** 
246HawkwingE1 5b ***371
247CarrionE3 5c *9
248Kestrel CrackVS 4b **480
249Headless HorsemanE1 5b 13
250Logical ProgressionE7 6c ** 
251Sleepy HollowE10 7a *** 
252FlimneyS 4a 149
253AmaranthE4 5c  
254Death KnellE4 5c ***40
255Pooh's ConnectionE2 6a 1
256RhodrenHVS 5b *228
257Flake ChimneyD *237
 CHALKSTORM AREA  
259Straight CrackHS 4a 124
260PunchE3 6b *4
261ChokaE1 5c *61
262Circuit BreakerE3 6a *1
263Hunky DoryE3 6a ***79
264Prow CornerVD *1638
265Corner CracksHVD *1108
266Micro-StormE1 5c 21
267ChalkstormE4 5c **667
268Prow CracksVD **1726
269Prow Cracks VariationsHVD *574
270Commander EnergyE2 5c ***560
271Sumo CelluliteE4 6a **1
 PIECE OF MIND SLAB  
273Rocking Stone GullyHVD 650
274Captain LethargyHVD 1108
275Sifta's QuidHS 4b *767
276Sifta's Quid Inside RouteS 3a 260
277Obsession FataleE8 6c ***53
278Piece of MindE6 6b ***74
279The Emergency ExitE6 6b 1
280Final DestinationE8 6c 1
281Thin AirE5 6a ***75
282The Roaches RidgeD 3a *51
283The Super GirdleE4 6a *** 
 PIECE OF MIND BOULDERS  
285Cottage AreteV2 5c *16
286Cottage Arete RightV1 5b 7
287The Crystal MazeV9 2
288Open Bum CleftV3 6a 11
289Sketchy AreteV2 5c 2
290Adventurous AreteV3 5c 3
291The JamsV2 5c 4
292Hanging AreteV1 5b 1
293The TeacupV1 5b 12
294GrewsomeV3 6a 8
295Twisted CrackV4 6b 14
296Left OffV3 5c 5
297Off WorkV2 5c 20
298Flake and AreteV2 5c 16
299Sticky WallV5 6b 2
300Wildy's AreteV3 6a 81
301Wildy's Arete Sit StartV5 6b 37
302Wildy's RightV3 6a 83
303Slab and CrackV0- 4a 121
304Slab and Crack - Left FinishV1 5b 25
305JobbyV0- 4b 63
306MickyV0 4a 30
307Little AreteV0- 4a 15
308Lazy WallV0- 4b 20
309ScabV2 5c 5
310BusterV5 6b 1
311Sail SlabV0 4a 101
312Mantel and PocketV0- 4a 113
313Mantle and Pocket Sit StartV2 5c 6
314Sail AreteV0- 4a 97
315Peer PressureV0 4c 5
316Sail RibV0 4c 104
317Tittersworth RibV2 5b 61
318Tittersworth Rib - Sit StartV4 6b 14
319Weird Little 5cV2 6a 10
320Chips AhoyV2 5b 54
321Left and UpV0- 4b 17
322The StretchV3 6a 3
323RampV0 5a 12
324The PottyV0- 4a 23
325Croissant GrooveV2 5c 10
326DropsyV0+ 5a 1
327The BlobV1 5b 2
328Crinkles WallV5 6b 1
329Annie's EggV5 6a 1
330Radical RunnelV2 5c 1
331Little MantelV0 5a 2
332Flake and GrooveV0- 4a 7
 UNKNOWN PROBLEMS AND ROUTES  
334Boxing Gloves and Roller Skates VB *4
335Prow Corner Twin Cracks *HVD 4a *46
336Rock Room Slab *V1 5b 1
337Ascent of woman start *f6B 2
338The Staffordshire NoseED1 ***2
339Loose Flakes *V0- 1
340Dirty Crack *VB 1
341The Flake *V0 2
342Flake Crack *V0 4  
343P.17 *f4 1
344P.15 *f3+ 1
345P.18 *f3+ 1
346Blister slab stay low traverse *V2 5b  
347Something Better Change RH *E2 5b 1
348Block and Crack *VB 4a 4
349Chain Reaction *E3 6a *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Col Allott

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