Roaches Lower Tier

Climbs 327 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 410m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

Route grades and numbers (especially bouldering) are based on BMC The Staffordshire Gritstone Guide (2003)

Access notes
Very limited parking below the crag. There is a park and ride from Tittesworth Reservoir, off the A53 Buxton to Leek road (SK 993601), weekends only, May to September. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Western Grit (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SPRING BOULDERS  
 BOG BOULDER  
3Bog Arete LeftV0- 4b 77
4Bog Arete RightV3 6a 14
5Pebbles and SeamV2 6a *42
6Bog MonsterV2 *72
7Bog StandardV1 5c *16
8Blind FlakeVB 53
9Bog SlabV0- 4a 67
10PoxyV0- 4c 100
11The SwingerV0+ 5a 59
12Runnel AreteVB *55
13Undercut WallV0+ 5a 54
14Boo MeringueV1 5b 12
 SPRING BOULDER  
16Spring SlabV5 6b **100
17C3POV7 6c ***63
18Boba FettV8 6c * 
19BobareteV7 6b *9
20Easy WallVB 77
21SprungV3 6a 58
22SpratV0+ 5a 88
23Sprung - Standing versionV1 5b 5
24SpriteV0+ 5a 66
 LITTLE BOULDER  
26Spring Roll LeftV2 23
27Spring RollV0 5a *68
28Slabby SeamV0 4a 80
29Blunt AreteV0- 4b 70
 GENTLE SLAB BOULDER  
31Low SlopesV1 5b 11
32The NoseV1 5b 23
33Wavy SlabV0+ 5a 43
34Centre SlabV0+ 5a 37
35Gentle SlabV0- 4b 60
36Slab to summitV0- 5a 54
 THE RAMP BOULDER  
38The Ramp (Melt)V2 5c *7
39Ramphole of the RoachesV2 6a 21
40FlakesV0 5b 12
41Pod 'n' UpV2 5c 8
42Mid PodV1 5c 5
 LITTLE SUMMIT  
44Summit AreteV0- 4b 59
45MantelV0- 4b 33
46A Nother MantelV0+ 5a 25
 SHOTHOLE BOULDER  
48ViolenceV2 5c *28
49ImpotenceV2 5c *25
50LoutV1 5b *20
51The ClawV2 5c *10
52Seconds OutV2 5b *33
53The GrindV6 6b *3
54Skinned RabbitV4 6b *7
55Skinned Rabbit Sit startV6 *6
56Sin LeftV6 6b 2
57Sin (Arete on Right)f6C **4
58Mr NiceV4 *4
59Mr LeftV5 6b  
60Arete on LeftV3 5c 4
61Ledgy AreteV0 4c 18
 THE FLY BOULDER  
63The FlyV4 6a *10
64The LurchV5 6b *12
65Heave Hof6A 1
66Scoop and RampV0- 5a 19
67Easy SlabV0- 4b 21
 LOWER TIER BOULDERS  
 DOUGLESS BOULDER  
70Particle ExchangeV6 6b * 
71Doug-lessV4 6a *1
72The RumourV7 6c 1
73Sketchy RibV2 5c 5
74Slabby AreteV0- 4b 14
75Chips and Flakef6A 10
76Green RibV0 4b 4
77Scratchy ScoopV3 6a 3
 BOULDER BEHIND  
79Lip TraverseV5 6b 2
80MantelV4 6b 6
 PINE TREE SLAB  
82Boss SlabV0 5a 280
83Pine SlabV2 5c 342
84Pine CrackV0- 4a 470
85Squeezy SlabV1 5b *284
86Up ChipsV0- 4a 447
87ArchV0 5a 228
88Pine AreteV0 5a 201
89Pine Arete RightV0 5a 158
90Green SlabV3 6a 72
91Pine MartinV0 5a 301
 GREENER BOULDER  
93Easy RibV0 4b 56
94The Green GreenieV1 5c 116
95The Greener TraverseV3 5c **278
96Greener ReverseV1 5+ 47
97Greener MantelV2 6a 99
98Greener Mantel Sit StartV4 6b 26
99GreenerateV4 6b 74
 TWIN FLAKES  
101Henious MantelV7 6c 13
102Heinous MantelV5 6b 5
103Theo all the wayf7A  
104The Uppercut (with arete)V3 6a 85
105The UppercutV4 6a 37
106The UndercutterV3 6a 151
107The GrasperV0 5a 157
108Green MantelV0- 4c 35
 THE BIG BLOCK  
110Black Nook SlabV0 4c 210
111Black Nook AreteV0 5a 169
112Pockets AreteV1 5b 120
113Three Pocket SlabV3 6a **766
114Parental DutiesV8 6c *3
115Heathery LedgeV2 5c 19
116Big Block GullyV0- 4a 161
117Sketchy WallV1 5b 7
118Bow CrackV3 5c 39
119Flake AreteV0 5a 148
120Big Block AreteV0 4c 106
121The Undercut TraverseV4 6a 23
122Stretch and MantelV5 6b ***191
123Undercut DynoV8 6c *76
124Stretch LeftV4 6a *93
125Classic AreteV0 5a **514
 BLISTER SLAB  
127Left SlabV0- 4a 388
128Slab 2V0- 4a 253
129Blister's SisterV0- 4c 395
130Blister SlabV0+ 5a 386
131Back Slab RightV0- 4a 346
 FAR LEFT LOWER TIER  
133Malted Milkf6C **1
134Boobidgef6A 1
135Double DV5 * 
136Drop BearsHVS 5b 2
137Slabotomyf7C ***2
138Beware CoconutsVS 4b 1
139Burrito DeluxeE3 5c  
140National HeroE2 5c 1
 ASCENT OF MAN BUTTRESS  
142Snap, Crackle and Andy PoppE1 5c 1
143Apache DawnE5 6c *2
144Catastrophe InternationaleE5 6c ***7
145Slippery JimHVS 5b 70
146Bareback RiderE4 6b *19
147K.P. NutsE7 6c *1
148Ascent of ManE3 6a ***111
149Ascent of WomanE3 6a *11
150Traverse of ManV2 5c 49
151Ascent of Man StartV2 6a **52
152Bow CrackV2 5c 14
153Days of Future PassedE3 6b *4
 TECK CRACK BUTTRESS  
155The AspirantE3 5c *7
156AckitHVS 5b **125
157Just For TodayE6 7a **1
158Barriers in TimeE6 6b ***14
159Sunday at ChapelE6 6c **1
160Ant Livesf7A 6c *10
161Inertia Reelf7A 6c ***9
162TurboV11 7a *1
163Thudf7B 6c *13
164Teck Crack Directf6C 6b *59
165Teck Crack Super Directf7A+ 6c *1
166The Dignity of Labourf6C 6b **8
167A Modest ProposalV6 6b *6
168Teck CrackE1 5c *54
169Joe's Hanging CrackE3 6a *3
170Skydivin'V4 6b *1
171Inertia Reel Traversef8A 6c ***1
172Lightning CrackHVS 5b *30
173Mushin'f8A+ ***4
174Boozy TraverseV8 6b *5
175Pindels NumbE4 6b *3
176Crystal GrazerE5 6a **4
177HeredityE6 6c 1
178A Fist Full of CrystalsE6 6b ***7
179DougE8 6c **3
180Fred's CafeVS 5a 16
 YONG BUTTRESS  
182Yong AreteS 3c *129
183Poisonous PythonHVS 5b *42
184YongHVD 4a **1042
185Something Better ChangeE2 5b *257
186WisecrackVS 4b *44
187HypothesisHVS 5b **48
188Destination EarthE7 6b **2
 BENGAL BUTTRESS  
190Cannonball CrackS 4b *163
191GraffitiE1 5b *5
192Dorothy's DilemmaE1 5a **81
193Bengal ButtressHVS 4c **128
194SchooliesE3 5c *8
195Chain ReactionE3 6a *1
196StepsE5 6b  
 RAVEN ROCK  
198Crack of GloomE1 5b **41
199Raven Rock Gully Left-handVS 4b *180
200Raven Rock GullyD **428
201SwingerVS 4c 30
202SidewinderE5 6a  
203Via DolorosaVS 4c ***828
204Via Dolorosa VariationsS 4a **25
205Valkyrie DirectHVS 5b **107
206MatineeHVS 5b **152
207The GutterV8 6c *77
208ValkyrieVS 4c ***1746
209Valkyrie cornerHS 4b 158
210Valkyrie Corner Flake VariantHS 4c *8
211Northern ComfortE6 6c **1
212Licence to KillE5 6b ***4
213Licence to RunE4 6a *19
214Licence to LustE4 6a * 
 THE SWAN WALL  
216Eugene's AxeE2 5c *33
217PebbledashHVS 5a **499
218Secrets of DanceE4 6a *3
219Against the GrainE6 7a ***2
220Thing on a SpringE6 7a ***3
221Up the SwaneeE4 5c **14
222The SwanE3 5c ***80
223Swan BankE4 5c *3
224The MincerHVS 5b ***379
 SMEAR TEST SLAB  
226Smear TestE3 6a **133
227PincerVS 5a *429
228Cold BloodE6 6b 1
229Kicking BirdE4 6a **19
230BloodstoneE5 6b **3
231BloodspeedE6 6b ** 
232Guano GullyHS 4b 92
233Mousey's MistakeE2 5b 3
 ELEGY SLAB  
235A Little PeculiarE6 7a ** 
236ElegyE2 5c ***320
237Clive CoolheadE5 6b **13
238The BulgerVS 4c *268
239Dirty Wee RougeE3 6a  
240Fledglings ClimbS 4a *626
241Wing WingHS 4a 33
242Little ChimneyM 242
243Battery CrackVS 4b 37
244Lucas ChimneyS 4a *110
 KESTREL BUTTRESS  
246GoldcrestE7 6c *** 
247HawkwingE1 5b ***375
248CarrionE3 5c *9
249Kestrel CrackVS 4b **489
250Headless HorsemanE1 5b 13
251Logical ProgressionE7 6c ** 
252Sleepy HollowE10 7a *** 
253FlimneyS 4a 150
254AmaranthE4 5c  
255Death KnellE4 5c ***41
256Pooh's ConnectionE2 6a 1
257RhodrenHVS 5b *229
258Flake ChimneyD *242
 CHALKSTORM AREA  
260Straight CrackHS 4a 127
261PunchE3 6b *4
262ChokaE1 5c *61
263Circuit BreakerE3 6a *1
264Hunky DoryE3 6a ***80
265Prow CornerVD *1656
266Corner CracksHVD *1118
267Micro-StormE1 5c 21
268ChalkstormE4 5c **672
269Prow CracksVD **1741
270Prow Cracks VariationsHVD *583
271Commander EnergyE2 5c ***567
272Sumo CelluliteE4 6a **1
 PIECE OF MIND SLAB  
274Rocking Stone GullyHVD 656
275Captain LethargyHVD 1127
276Sifta's QuidHS 4b *776
277Sifta's Quid Inside RouteS 3a 262
278Obsession FataleE8 6c ***53
279Piece of MindE6 6b ***74
280The Emergency ExitE6 6b 1
281Final DestinationE8 6c 1
282Thin AirE5 6a ***75
283The Roaches RidgeD 3a *51
284The Super GirdleE4 6a *** 
 PIECE OF MIND BOULDERS  
286Cottage AreteV2 5c *16
287Cottage Arete RightV1 5b 7
288The Crystal MazeV9 2
289Open Bum CleftV3 6a 12
290Sketchy AreteV2 5c 2
291Adventurous AreteV3 5c 3
292The JamsV2 5c 4
293Hanging AreteV1 5b 1
294The TeacupV1 5b 12
295GrewsomeV3 6a 8
296Twisted CrackV4 6b 14
297Left OffV3 5c 5
298Off WorkV2 5c 20
299Flake and AreteV2 5c 18
300Sticky WallV5 6b 2
301Wildy's AreteV3 6a 82
302Wildy's Arete Sit StartV5 6b 40
303Wildy's RightV3 6a 86
304Slab and CrackV0- 4a 121
305Slab and Crack - Left FinishV1 5b 25
306JobbyV0- 4b 63
307MickyV0 4a 30
308Little AreteV0- 4a 15
309Lazy WallV0- 4b 20
310ScabV2 5c 5
311BusterV5 6b 1
312Sail SlabV0 4a 101
313Mantel and PocketV0- 4a 113
314Mantle and Pocket Sit StartV2 5c 6
315Sail AreteV0- 4a 97
316Peer PressureV0 4c 5
317Sail RibV0 4c 104
318Tittersworth RibV2 5b 61
319Tittersworth Rib - Sit StartV4 6b 14
320Weird Little 5cV2 6a 10
321Chips AhoyV2 5b 54
322Left and UpV0- 4b 17
323The StretchV3 6a 3
324RampV0 5a 12
325The PottyV0- 4a 23
326Croissant GrooveV2 5c 10
327DropsyV0+ 5a 1
328The BlobV1 5b 2
329Crinkles WallV5 6b 1
330Annie's EggV5 6a 1
331Radical RunnelV2 5c 1
332Little MantelV0 5a 2
333Flake and GrooveV0- 4a 7
 UNKNOWN PROBLEMS AND ROUTES  
335Boxing Gloves and Roller Skates VB *4
336Prow Corner Twin Cracks *HVD 4a *51
337Rock Room Slab *V1 5b 1
338Ascent of woman start *f6B 2
339The Staffordshire NoseED1 ***2
340Loose Flakes *V0- 1
341Dirty Crack *VB 1
342The Flake *V0 2
343Flake Crack *V0 4  
344P.17 *f4 1
345P.15 *f3+ 1
346P.18 *f3+ 1
347Blister slab stay low traverse *V2 5b 1
348Something Better Change RH *E2 5b 1
349Block and Crack *VB 4a 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Col Allott

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