Climbs 327
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SW

Winter sunset, The Roaches © Adam Long

Crag features

Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

Route grades and numbers (especially bouldering) are based on BMC The Staffordshire Gritstone Guide (2003)

Approach notes

Very limited parking below the crag. There is a park and ride from Tittesworth Reservoir, off the A53 Buxton to Leek road (SK 993601), weekends only, May to September. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Spring Boulders 
 Bog Boulder 
3Bog ArÍte Left
-
V0- 90
4Bog ArÍte Right
-
V3 18
5Pebbles and Seam
-
V2 *43
6Bog MonsterV2 *76
7Bog Standard
-
V1 *25
8Blind FlakeVB 56
9Bog SlabV0- 83
10PoxyV0- 118
11The Swinger
-
V0+ 68
12Runnel ArÍteVB *65
13Undercut Wall
-
V0+ 64
14Boo Meringue
-
V1 18
 Spring Boulder 
16Spring SlabV5 **133
17C3POV7 ***100
18Boba FettV8 *2
19BobareteV7 *9
20Easy WallVB 80
21Sprung
-
V3 76
22Sprat
-
V0+ 101
23Sprung - Standing versionV1 13
24Sprite
-
V0+ 78
 Little Boulder 
26Spring Roll Left
-
V2 25
27Spring RollV0 *77
28Slabby Seam
-
V0 94
29Blunt ArÍte
-
V0- 90
 Gentle Slab Boulder 
31Low SlopesV1 13
32The Nose
-
V1 28
33Wavy SlabV0+ 53
34Centre SlabV0+ 42
35Gentle Slab
-
V0- 71
36Slab to Summit
-
V0- 58
 The Ramp Boulder 
38The Ramp (Melt)V2 *11
39Ramphole of the Roaches
-
V2 28
40FlakesV0 20
41Pod 'n' Up
-
V2 9
42Mid PodV1 8
 Little Summit 
44Summit ArÍte
-
V0- 69
45MantelV0- 35
46A Nother MantelV0+ 27
 Shothole Boulder 
48Violence
-
V2 *36
49Impotence
-
V2 *29
50Lout
-
V1 *25
51The ClawV2 *11
52Seconds Out
-
V2 *32
53The Grind
-
V6 *4
54Skinned Rabbit
-
V4 *8
55Skinned Rabbit Sit-Start
-
V6 *7
56Sin Left
-
V6 3
57Sin (ArÍte on Right)f6C **5
58Mr Nice
-
V4 *4
59Mr Left
-
V5  
60ArÍte on LeftV3 4
61Ledgy ArÍte
-
V0 18
 The Fly Boulder 
63The FlyV4 *11
64The LurchV5 *15
65Heave Hof6A 1
66Scoop and Ramp
-
V0- 20
67Easy Slab
-
V0- 21
 Lower Tier Boulders 
 Dougless Boulder 
70Particle Exchange
-
V6 * 
71Doug-less
-
V4 *5
72The RumourV7 1
73Sketchy Rib
-
V2 7
74Slabby ArÍte
-
V0- 19
75Chips and Flake
-
f6A 11
76Green Rib
-
V0 5
77Scratchy Scoop
-
V3 3
78Ned Zeppelinf8A ** 
 Boulder Behind 
80Lip TraverseV5 3
81MantelV4 7
 Pine Tree Slab 
83Boss Slab
-
V0 391
84Pine SlabV2 461
85Pine CrackV0- 612
86Squeezy SlabV1 *361
87Up ChipsV0- 577
88Arch
-
V0 314
89Pine ArÍte
-
V0 282
90Pine ArÍte Right
-
V0 211
91Green Slab
-
V3 112
92Pine MartinV0 380
 Greener Boulder 
94Easy RibV0 64
95The Green GreenieV1 134
96The Greener TraverseV3 **362
97Greener ReverseV1 69
98Greener MantelV2 136
99Greener Mantel Sit-Start
-
V4 40
100Greenerate
-
V4 93
 Twin Flakes 
102Henious Mantel
-
V7 17
103Heinous Mantel
-
V5 13
104Theo All The Wayf7A 1
105The Uppercut (With ArÍte)
-
V3 124
106The Uppercut
-
V4 56
107The Undercutter
-
V3 220
108The Grasper
-
V0 215
109Green MantelV0- 48
 The Big Block 
111Black Nook Slab
-
V0 251
112Black Nook ArÍte
-
V0 206
113Pockets ArÍte
-
V1 144
114Three Pocket SlabV3 **1003
115Parental Duties
-
V8 *10
116Heathery Ledge
-
V2 22
117Big Block Gully
-
V0- 200
118Sketchy WallV1 13
119Bow Crack
-
V3 61
120Flake ArÍte
-
V0 183
121Big Block ArÍte
-
V0 136
122The Undercut Traverse
-
V4 32
123Stretch and Mantel
-
V5 ***270
124Undercut DynoV8 *111
125Stretch Left
-
V4 *114
126Classic ArÍteV0 **640
 Blister Slab 
128Left Slab
-
V0- 510
129Slab 2V0- 368
130Blister's SisterV0- 514
131Blister SlabV0+ 505
132Back Slab Right
-
V0- 447
 Far Left Lower Tier 
134Malted Milkf6C **2
135Boobidgef6A 1
136Double DV5 * 
137Drop BearsHVS 5b 2
138Slabotomyf7C ***3
139Beware CoconutsVS 4b 1
140Burrito DeluxeE3 5c  
141National Hero
-
E2 5c 1
 Ascent of Man 
143Snap, Crackle and Andy PoppE1 5c 1
144Apache DawnE5 6c *2
145Catastrophe InternationaleE5 6c ***8
146Slippery JimHVS 5b 120
147Bareback RiderE4 6b *30
148K.P. NutsE7 6c *1
149Ascent of ManE3 6a ***168
150Ascent of Man Start
-
V2 **90
151Ascent of WomanE3 6a *12
152Ascent of Woman Startf6B 11
153Traverse of ManV2 77
154Bow CrackV2 20
155Days of Future PassedE3 6b *4
 Teck Crack Buttress 
157The AspirantE3 5c *10
158AckitHVS 5b **185
159Just For TodayE6 7a **1
160Barriers in TimeE6 6b ***17
161Sunday at ChapelE6 6c **1
162Ant Livesf7A 6c *14
163Inertia Reelf7A 6c ***10
164Turbo
-
V11 *2
165Thud
-
f7B *24
166Teck Crack Directf6C 6b *70
167Teck Crack Super Directf7A+ 6c *2
168The Dignity of Labourf6C 6b **11
169A Modest ProposalV6 *7
170Teck CrackE1 5c *96
171Joe's Hanging CrackE3 6a *8
172Skydivin'V4 *1
173Inertia Reel Traversef8A+ ***1
174Lightning CrackHVS 5b *42
175Mushin'f7C+ ***21
176Boozy Traverse
-
V8 *7
177Pindels NumbE4 6b *3
178Crystal GrazerE5 6a **5
179HeredityE6 6c 1
180A Fist Full of CrystalsE6 6b ***7
181DougE8 6c **3
182Fred's CafeVS 5a 17
 Yong Buttress 
184Yong ArÍteS 3c *157
185Poisonous PythonHVS 5b *46
186YongHVD 4a **1257
187Something Better ChangeE2 5b *316
188WisecrackVS 4b *54
189HypothesisHVS 5b **56
190Destination EarthE7 6b **2
 Bengal Buttress 
192Cannonball CrackS 4b *205
193GraffitiE1 5b *5
194Dorothy's DilemmaE1 5a **113
195Bengal ButtressHVS 4c **174
196SchooliesE3 5c *10
197Chain ReactionE3 6a *1
198Steps
-
E5 6b  
 Raven Rock 
200Crack of GloomE1 5b **68
201Raven Rock Gully Left-handVS 4b *214
202Raven Rock GullyD **494
203SwingerVS 4c 32
204SidewinderE5 6a  
205Via DolorosaVS 4c ***1159
206Via Dolorosa VariationsS 4a **31
207Valkyrie DirectHVS 5b **170
208MatineeHVS 5b **250
209The GutterV8 *100
210ValkyrieVS 4c ***2585
211Valkyrie cornerHS 4b 197
212Valkyrie Corner Flake VariantHS 4c *9
213Northern ComfortE6 6c **1
214Licence to KillE5 6b ***4
215Licence to RunE4 6a *25
216Licence to LustE4 6a * 
 The Swan Wall 
218Eugene's AxeE2 5c *45
219PebbledashHVS 5a **642
220Secrets of DanceE4 6a *8
221Against the GrainE6 7a ***2
222Thing on a SpringE6 7a ***3
223Up the SwaneeE4 5c **19
224The SwanE3 5c ***142
225Swan BankE4 5c *4
226The MincerHVS 5b ***553
 Smear Test Slab 
228Smear TestE3 6a **212
229PincerVS 5a *518
230Cold BloodE6 6b 1
231Kicking BirdE4 6a **26
232BloodstoneE5 6b **5
233BloodspeedE6 6b **1
234Guano GullyHS 4b 101
235Mousey's MistakeE2 5b 4
 Elegy Slab 
237A Little PeculiarE6 7a ** 
238ElegyE2 5c ***538
239Clive CoolheadE5 6b **15
240The BulgerVS 4c *353
241Dirty Wee RougeE3 6a  
242Fledglings ClimbS 4a *729
243Wing WingHS 4a 45
244Little ChimneyM 283
245Battery CrackVS 4b 43
246Lucas ChimneyS 4a *135
 Kestrel Buttress 
248GoldcrestE7 6c *** 
249HawkwingE1 5b ***522
250CarrionE3 5c *11
251Kestrel CrackVS 4b **604
252Headless HorsemanE1 5b 16
253Logical ProgressionE7 6c **1
254Sleepy HollowE10 7a *** 
255FlimneyS 4a 183
256AmaranthE4 5c  
257Death KnellE4 5c ***56
258Pooh's ConnectionE2 6a 1
259RhodrenHVS 5b *307
260Flake ChimneyD *292
 Chalkstorm Area 
262Straight CrackHS 4a 148
263PunchE3 6b *4
264ChokaE1 5c *71
265Circuit BreakerE3 6a *2
266Hunky DoryE3 6a ***123
267Prow CornerVD *1915
268Corner CracksHVD *1302
269Micro-StormE1 5c 24
270ChalkstormE4 5c **833
271Prow CracksVD **2019
272Prow Cracks VariationsHVD *676
273Commander EnergyE2 5c ***823
274Sumo CelluliteE4 6a **1
 Piece of Mind Slab 
276Rocking Stone GullyHVD 747
277Captain LethargyHVD 1302
278Sifta's QuidHS 4b *912
279Sifta's Quid Inside RouteS 3a 339
280Obsession FataleE8 6c ***78
281Piece of MindE6 6b ***100
282The Emergency ExitE6 6b 1
283Final DestinationE8 6c 1
284Thin AirE5 6a ***100
285The Roaches RidgeD 3a *72
286The Super GirdleE4 6a *** 
 Piece of Mind Boulders 
288Cottage ArÍte
-
V2 *18
289Cottage ArÍte Right
-
V1 8
290The Crystal MazeV9 2
291Open Bum Cleft
-
V3 20
292Sketchy ArÍte
-
V2 2
293Adventurous ArÍte
-
V3 3
294The Jams
-
V2 4
295Hanging ArÍte
-
V1 1
296The TeacupV1 15
297Grewsome
-
V3 18
298Twisted Crack
-
V4 25
299Left OffV3 7
300Off Work
-
V2 31
301Flake and ArÍte
-
V2 25
302Sticky WallV5 2
303Wildy's ArÍte
-
V3 118
304Wildy's ArÍte Sit-Start
-
V5 60
305Wildy's Right
-
V3 132
306Slab and Crack
-
V0- 146
307Slab and Crack - Left FinishV1 36
308Jobby
-
V0- 87
309MickyV0 40
310Little ArÍteV0- 18
311Lazy WallV0- 22
312Scab
-
V2 5
313Buster
-
V5 2
314Sail Slab
-
V0 121
315Mantel and Pocket
-
V0- 132
316Mantle and Pocket Sit-Start
-
V2 7
317Sail ArÍte
-
V0- 118
318Peer PressureV0 6
319Sail RibV0 120
320Tittersworth RibV2 75
321Tittersworth Rib Sit-Start
-
V4 17
322Weird Little 5c
-
V2 11
323Chips Ahoy
-
V2 64
324Left and Up
-
V0- 17
325The Stretch
-
V3 3
326RampV0 14
327The Potty
-
V0- 24
328Croissant Groove
-
V2 12
329Dropsy
-
V0+ 1
330The Blob
-
V1 2
331Crinkles Wall
-
V5 1
332Annie's Egg
-
V5 1
333Radical Runnel
-
V2 1
334Little MantelV0 2
335Flake and GrooveV0- 7
 Unknown Problems and Routes 
337Boxing Gloves and Roller SkatesVB *5
338Prow Corner Twin CracksHVD 4a *99
339Rock Room SlabV1 1
340The Staffordshire NoseED1 ***4
341Loose FlakesV0- 1
342Dirty CrackVB 2
343The Flake
-
V0 5
344Flake Crack
-
V0  
345P.17f4 2
346P.15f3+ 2
347P.18f3+ 1
348Blister slab stay low traverseV2 3
349Something Better Change RHE2 5b 2
350Block and Crack
-
VB 20
351The Fly Low StartV7 * 
352Turbo Extension *f8A ** 
353Greener Traverse - Turner's Extension *V7  
354The Staffordshire Man *V5+ ***1
355Slabotomy Lefthand *f7A+ ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Col Allott