Climbs 327
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SW

Winter sunset, The Roaches © Adam Long

Crag features

Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

Route grades and numbers (especially bouldering) are based on BMC The Staffordshire Gritstone Guide (2003)

Approach notes

Very limited parking below the crag. There is a park and ride from Tittesworth Reservoir, off the A53 Buxton to Leek road (SK 993601), weekends only, May to September. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Spring Boulders 
 Bog Boulder 
3Bog Arete Left
-
V0- 84
4Bog Arete Right
-
V3 15
5Pebbles and Seam
-
V2 *40
6Bog MonsterV2 *72
7Bog Standard
-
V1 *20
8Blind FlakeVB 54
9Bog SlabV0- 76
10PoxyV0- 109
11The Swinger
-
V0+ 64
12Runnel AreteVB *62
13Undercut Wall
-
V0+ 62
14Boo Meringue
-
V1 18
 Spring Boulder 
16Spring SlabV5 **124
17C3POV7 ***89
18Boba FettV8 *1
19BobareteV7 *8
20Easy WallVB 78
21Sprung
-
V3 66
22Sprat
-
V0+ 96
23Sprung - Standing versionV1 10
24Sprite
-
V0+ 74
 Little Boulder 
26Spring Roll Left
-
V2 23
27Spring RollV0 *70
28Slabby Seam
-
V0 88
29Blunt AreteV0- 83
 Gentle Slab Boulder 
31Low SlopesV1 12
32The Nose
-
V1 25
33Wavy SlabV0+ 49
34Centre SlabV0+ 39
35Gentle Slab
-
V0- 68
36Slab to summitV0- 58
 The Ramp Boulder 
38The Ramp (Melt)V2 *12
39Ramphole of the Roaches
-
V2 27
40FlakesV0 18
41Pod 'n' Up
-
V2 9
42Mid PodV1 7
 Little Summit 
44Summit AreteV0- 66
45MantelV0- 33
46A Nother MantelV0+ 25
 Shothole Boulder 
48Violence
-
V2 *30
49Impotence
-
V2 *25
50Lout
-
V1 *20
51The ClawV2 *10
52Seconds Out
-
V2 *32
53The Grind
-
V6 *3
54Skinned Rabbit
-
V4 *7
55Skinned Rabbit Sit start
-
V6 *6
56Sin Left
-
V6 3
57Sin (Arete on Right)f6C **4
58Mr Nice
-
V4 *4
59Mr Left
-
V5  
60Arete on LeftV3 4
61Ledgy AreteV0 18
 The Fly Boulder 
63The FlyV4 *11
64The LurchV5 *14
65Heave Hof6A 1
66Scoop and Ramp
-
V0- 20
67Easy Slab
-
V0- 21
 Lower Tier Boulders 
 dougless boulder 
70Particle Exchange
-
V6 * 
71Doug-less
-
V4 *3
72The RumourV7 1
73Sketchy Rib
-
V2 6
74Slabby Arete
-
V0- 17
75Chips and Flake
-
f6A 11
76Green Rib
-
V0 5
77Scratchy Scoop
-
V3 3
 Boulder Behind 
79Lip TraverseV5 3
80MantelV4 7
 Pine Tree Slab 
82Boss Slab
-
V0 319
83Pine SlabV2 373
84Pine CrackV0- 515
85Squeezy SlabV1 *311
86Up ChipsV0- 486
87Arch
-
V0 254
88Pine Arete
-
V0 225
89Pine Arete Right
-
V0 172
90Green Slab
-
V3 89
91Pine MartinV0 323
 Greener Boulder 
93Easy RibV0 60
94The Green GreenieV1 122
95The Greener TraverseV3 **315
96Greener ReverseV1 58
97Greener MantelV2 117
98Greener Mantel Sit Start
-
V4 30
99Greenerate
-
V4 86
 Twin Flakes 
101Henious Mantel
-
V7 14
102Heinous Mantel
-
V5 8
103Theo all the wayf7A 1
104The Uppercut (with arete)
-
V3 99
105The Uppercut
-
V4 47
106The Undercutter
-
V3 173
107The Grasper
-
V0 169
108Green MantelV0- 40
 The Big Block 
110Black Nook Slab
-
V0 227
111Black Nook Arete
-
V0 181
112Pockets Arete
-
V1 127
113Three Pocket SlabV3 **872
114Parental Duties
-
V8 *4
115Heathery Ledge
-
V2 20
116Big Block Gully
-
V0- 170
117Sketchy WallV1 9
118Bow Crack
-
V3 47
119Flake Arete
-
V0 159
120Big Block Arete
-
V0 113
121The Undercut Traverse
-
V4 26
122Stretch and Mantel
-
V5 ***235
123Undercut DynoV8 *82
124Stretch Left
-
V4 *98
125Classic AreteV0 **557
 Blister Slab 
127Left Slab
-
V0- 425
128Slab 2V0- 288
129Blister's SisterV0- 435
130Blister SlabV0+ 422
131Back Slab Right
-
V0- 384
 FAR LEFT LOWER TIER 
133Malted Milkf6C **1
134Boobidgef6A 1
135Double DV5 * 
136Drop BearsHVS 5b 2
137Slabotomyf7C ***3
138Beware CoconutsVS 4b 1
139Burrito DeluxeE3 5c  
140National Hero
-
E2 5c 1
 ASCENT OF MAN BUTTRESS 
142Snap, Crackle and Andy PoppE1 5c 1
143Apache DawnE5 6c *2
144Catastrophe InternationaleE5 6c ***7
145Slippery JimHVS 5b 90
146Bareback RiderE4 6b *19
147K.P. NutsE7 6c *1
148Ascent of ManE3 6a ***151
149Ascent of WomanE3 6a *11
150Traverse of ManV2 55
151Ascent of Man Start
-
V2 **62
152Bow CrackV2 19
153Days of Future PassedE3 6b *4
 TECK CRACK BUTTRESS 
155The AspirantE3 5c *10
156AckitHVS 5b **164
157Just For TodayE6 7a **1
158Barriers in TimeE6 6b ***14
159Sunday at ChapelE6 6c **1
160Ant Livesf7A 6c *10
161Inertia Reelf7A 6c ***10
162Turbo
-
V11 *3
163Thud
-
f7B *15
164Teck Crack Directf6C 6b *59
165Teck Crack Super Directf7A+ 6c *2
166The Dignity of Labourf6C 6b **8
167A Modest ProposalV6 *6
168Teck CrackE1 5c *61
169Joe's Hanging CrackE3 6a *4
170Skydivin'V4 *1
171Inertia Reel Traversef8A+ ***1
172Lightning CrackHVS 5b *34
173Mushin'f7C+ ***4
174Boozy Traverse
-
V8 *5
175Pindels NumbE4 6b *3
176Crystal GrazerE5 6a **4
177HeredityE6 6c 1
178A Fist Full of CrystalsE6 6b ***7
179DougE8 6c **3
180Fred's CafeVS 5a 16
 YONG BUTTRESS 
182Yong AreteS 3c *145
183Poisonous PythonHVS 5b *50
184YongHVD 4a **1158
185Something Better ChangeE2 5b *295
186WisecrackVS 4b *48
187HypothesisHVS 5b **53
188Destination EarthE7 6b **2
 Bengal Buttress 
190Cannonball CrackS 4b *195
191GraffitiE1 5b *5
192Dorothy's DilemmaE1 5a **92
193Bengal ButtressHVS 4c **159
194SchooliesE3 5c *10
195Chain ReactionE3 6a *1
196Steps
-
E5 6b  
 Raven Rock 
198Crack of GloomE1 5b **49
199Raven Rock Gully Left-handVS 4b *191
200Raven Rock GullyD **468
201SwingerVS 4c 30
202SidewinderE5 6a  
203Via DolorosaVS 4c ***1028
204Via Dolorosa VariationsS 4a **28
205Valkyrie DirectHVS 5b **118
206MatineeHVS 5b **167
207The GutterV8 *94
208ValkyrieVS 4c ***2337
209Valkyrie cornerHS 4b 180
210Valkyrie Corner Flake VariantHS 4c *9
211Northern ComfortE6 6c **1
212Licence to KillE5 6b ***4
213Licence to RunE4 6a *19
214Licence to LustE4 6a * 
 The Swan wall 
216Eugene's AxeE2 5c *37
217PebbledashHVS 5a **577
218Secrets of DanceE4 6a *4
219Against the GrainE6 7a ***2
220Thing on a SpringE6 7a ***3
221Up the SwaneeE4 5c **16
222The SwanE3 5c ***119
223Swan BankE4 5c *3
224The MincerHVS 5b ***501
 Smear Test Slab 
226Smear TestE3 6a **196
227PincerVS 5a *481
228Cold BloodE6 6b 1
229Kicking BirdE4 6a **26
230BloodstoneE5 6b **6
231BloodspeedE6 6b **1
232Guano GullyHS 4b 99
233Mousey's MistakeE2 5b 4
 Elegy Slab 
235A Little PeculiarE6 7a ** 
236ElegyE2 5c ***499
237Clive CoolheadE5 6b **14
238The BulgerVS 4c *308
239Dirty Wee RougeE3 6a  
240Fledglings ClimbS 4a *672
241Wing WingHS 4a 41
242Little ChimneyM 270
243Battery CrackVS 4b 40
244Lucas ChimneyS 4a *120
 Kestrel Buttress 
246GoldcrestE7 6c *** 
247HawkwingE1 5b ***473
248CarrionE3 5c *11
249Kestrel CrackVS 4b **550
250Headless HorsemanE1 5b 14
251Logical ProgressionE7 6c ** 
252Sleepy HollowE10 7a *** 
253FlimneyS 4a 164
254AmaranthE4 5c  
255Death KnellE4 5c ***42
256Pooh's ConnectionE2 6a 1
257RhodrenHVS 5b *274
258Flake ChimneyD *274
 Chalkstorm Area 
260Straight CrackHS 4a 132
261PunchE3 6b *4
262ChokaE1 5c *67
263Circuit BreakerE3 6a *2
264Hunky DoryE3 6a ***85
265Prow CornerVD *1778
266Corner CracksHVD *1210
267Micro-StormE1 5c 24
268ChalkstormE4 5c **780
269Prow CracksVD **1875
270Prow Cracks VariationsHVD *631
271Commander EnergyE2 5c ***746
272Sumo CelluliteE4 6a **1
 Piece of Mind Slab 
274Rocking Stone GullyHVD 703
275Captain LethargyHVD 1218
276Sifta's QuidHS 4b *844
277Sifta's Quid Inside RouteS 3a 292
278Obsession FataleE8 6c ***57
279Piece of MindE6 6b ***78
280The Emergency ExitE6 6b 1
281Final DestinationE8 6c 1
282Thin AirE5 6a ***81
283The Roaches RidgeD 3a *57
284The Super GirdleE4 6a *** 
 Piece of mind boulders 
286Cottage AreteV2 *17
287Cottage Arete Right
-
V1 8
288The Crystal MazeV9 2
289Open Bum Cleft
-
V3 14
290Sketchy Arete
-
V2 2
291Adventurous Arete
-
V3 3
292The Jams
-
V2 4
293Hanging Arete
-
V1 1
294The TeacupV1 15
295Grewsome
-
V3 11
296Twisted Crack
-
V4 20
297Left OffV3 7
298Off Work
-
V2 26
299Flake and Arete
-
V2 25
300Sticky WallV5 2
301Wildy's Arete
-
V3 95
302Wildy's Arete Sit Start
-
V5 46
303Wildy's Right
-
V3 106
304Slab and Crack
-
V0- 131
305Slab and Crack - Left FinishV1 27
306Jobby
-
V0- 74
307MickyV0 37
308Little AreteV0- 16
309Lazy WallV0- 20
310Scab
-
V2 5
311Buster
-
V5 1
312Sail Slab
-
V0 111
313Mantel and Pocket
-
V0- 121
314Mantle and Pocket Sit StartV2 7
315Sail Arete
-
V0- 108
316Peer PressureV0 5
317Sail RibV0 112
318Tittersworth RibV2 71
319Tittersworth Rib - Sit StartV4 17
320Weird Little 5c
-
V2 10
321Chips Ahoy
-
V2 63
322Left and Up
-
V0- 17
323The Stretch
-
V3 3
324RampV0 13
325The Potty
-
V0- 24
326Croissant Groove
-
V2 11
327Dropsy
-
V0+ 1
328The Blob
-
V1 2
329Crinkles Wall
-
V5 1
330Annie's Egg
-
V5 1
331Radical Runnel
-
V2 1
332Little MantelV0 2
333Flake and GrooveV0- 7
 Unknown Problems and Routes 
335Boxing Gloves and Roller SkatesVB *5
336Prow Corner Twin CracksHVD 4a *65
337Rock Room SlabV1 1
338Ascent of woman startf6B 2
339The Staffordshire NoseED1 ***4
340Loose FlakesV0- 1
341Dirty CrackVB 2
342The Flake
-
V0 2
343Flake Crack
-
V0  
344P.17f4 2
345P.15f3+ 2
346P.18f3+ 1
347Blister slab stay low traverseV2 2
348Something Better Change RHE2 5b 2
349Block and Crack
-
VB 9
350The Fly Low StartV7 * 
351Ascent Of Women *f6B 1
352Turbo Extension *f8A ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Col Allott