Climbs 327
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SW

Winter sunset, The Roaches © Adam Long

Crag features

Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

Route grades and numbers (especially bouldering) are based on BMC The Staffordshire Gritstone Guide (2003)

Approach notes

Very limited parking below the crag. There is a park and ride from Tittesworth Reservoir, off the A53 Buxton to Leek road (SK 993601), weekends only, May to September. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Spring Boulders 
 Bog Boulder 
3Bog ArÍte Left
-
V0- 87
4Bog ArÍte Right
-
V3 17
5Pebbles and Seam
-
V2 *42
6Bog MonsterV2 *75
7Bog Standard
-
V1 *22
8Blind FlakeVB 55
9Bog SlabV0- 78
10PoxyV0- 112
11The Swinger
-
V0+ 66
12Runnel ArÍteVB *63
13Undercut Wall
-
V0+ 63
14Boo Meringue
-
V1 18
 Spring Boulder 
16Spring SlabV5 **116
17C3POV7 ***92
18Boba FettV8 *2
19BobareteV7 *8
20Easy WallVB 79
21Sprung
-
V3 70
22Sprat
-
V0+ 97
23Sprung - Standing versionV1 11
24Sprite
-
V0+ 76
 Little Boulder 
26Spring Roll Left
-
V2 24
27Spring RollV0 *73
28Slabby Seam
-
V0 91
29Blunt ArÍte
-
V0- 85
 Gentle Slab Boulder 
31Low SlopesV1 12
32The Nose
-
V1 25
33Wavy SlabV0+ 49
34Centre SlabV0+ 40
35Gentle Slab
-
V0- 69
36Slab to Summit
-
V0- 58
 The Ramp Boulder 
38The Ramp (Melt)V2 *11
39Ramphole of the Roaches
-
V2 27
40FlakesV0 19
41Pod 'n' Up
-
V2 9
42Mid PodV1 7
 Little Summit 
44Summit ArÍte
-
V0- 68
45MantelV0- 34
46A Nother MantelV0+ 26
 Shothole Boulder 
48Violence
-
V2 *32
49Impotence
-
V2 *26
50Lout
-
V1 *21
51The ClawV2 *11
52Seconds Out
-
V2 *31
53The Grind
-
V6 *4
54Skinned Rabbit
-
V4 *7
55Skinned Rabbit Sit-Start
-
V6 *6
56Sin Left
-
V6 3
57Sin (ArÍte on Right)f6C **5
58Mr Nice
-
V4 *4
59Mr Left
-
V5  
60ArÍte on LeftV3 4
61Ledgy ArÍte
-
V0 18
 The Fly Boulder 
63The FlyV4 *11
64The LurchV5 *15
65Heave Hof6A 1
66Scoop and Ramp
-
V0- 20
67Easy Slab
-
V0- 21
 Lower Tier Boulders 
 Dougless Boulder 
70Particle Exchange
-
V6 * 
71Doug-less
-
V4 *3
72The RumourV7 1
73Sketchy Rib
-
V2 7
74Slabby ArÍte
-
V0- 18
75Chips and Flake
-
f6A 11
76Green Rib
-
V0 5
77Scratchy Scoop
-
V3 3
 Boulder Behind 
79Lip TraverseV5 3
80MantelV4 7
 Pine Tree Slab 
82Boss Slab
-
V0 364
83Pine SlabV2 433
84Pine CrackV0- 580
85Squeezy SlabV1 *344
86Up ChipsV0- 547
87Arch
-
V0 295
88Pine ArÍte
-
V0 263
89Pine ArÍte Right
-
V0 195
90Green Slab
-
V3 105
91Pine MartinV0 359
 Greener Boulder 
93Easy RibV0 61
94The Green GreenieV1 130
95The Greener TraverseV3 **342
96Greener ReverseV1 63
97Greener MantelV2 128
98Greener Mantel Sit-Start
-
V4 37
99Greenerate
-
V4 91
 Twin Flakes 
101Henious Mantel
-
V7 16
102Heinous Mantel
-
V5 12
103Theo All The Wayf7A 1
104The Uppercut (With ArÍte)
-
V3 110
105The Uppercut
-
V4 48
106The Undercutter
-
V3 197
107The Grasper
-
V0 195
108Green MantelV0- 45
 The Big Block 
110Black Nook Slab
-
V0 242
111Black Nook ArÍte
-
V0 195
112Pockets ArÍte
-
V1 134
113Three Pocket SlabV3 **939
114Parental Duties
-
V8 *6
115Heathery Ledge
-
V2 21
116Big Block Gully
-
V0- 193
117Sketchy WallV1 10
118Bow Crack
-
V3 54
119Flake ArÍte
-
V0 169
120Big Block ArÍte
-
V0 122
121The Undercut Traverse
-
V4 27
122Stretch and Mantel
-
V5 ***247
123Undercut DynoV8 *87
124Stretch Left
-
V4 *106
125Classic ArÍteV0 **599
 Blister Slab 
127Left Slab
-
V0- 479
128Slab 2V0- 340
129Blister's SisterV0- 486
130Blister SlabV0+ 474
131Back Slab Right
-
V0- 426
 Far Left Lower Tier 
133Malted Milkf6C **2
134Boobidgef6A 1
135Double DV5 * 
136Drop BearsHVS 5b 2
137Slabotomyf7C ***3
138Beware CoconutsVS 4b 1
139Burrito DeluxeE3 5c  
140National Hero
-
E2 5c 1
 Ascent of Man 
142Snap, Crackle and Andy PoppE1 5c 1
143Apache DawnE5 6c *2
144Catastrophe InternationaleE5 6c ***8
145Slippery JimHVS 5b 113
146Bareback RiderE4 6b *19
147K.P. NutsE7 6c *1
148Ascent of ManE3 6a ***126
149Ascent of Man Start
-
V2 **70
150Ascent of WomanE3 6a *12
151Ascent of Woman Startf6B 4
152Traverse of ManV2 64
153Bow CrackV2 20
154Days of Future PassedE3 6b *4
 Teck Crack Buttress 
156The AspirantE3 5c *10
157AckitHVS 5b **171
158Just For TodayE6 7a **1
159Barriers in TimeE6 6b ***17
160Sunday at ChapelE6 6c **1
161Ant Livesf7A 6c *10
162Inertia Reelf7A 6c ***10
163Turbo
-
V11 *2
164Thud
-
f7B *15
165Teck Crack Directf6C 6b *61
166Teck Crack Super Directf7A+ 6c *2
167The Dignity of Labourf6C 6b **10
168A Modest ProposalV6 *7
169Teck CrackE1 5c *87
170Joe's Hanging CrackE3 6a *4
171Skydivin'V4 *1
172Inertia Reel Traversef8A+ ***1
173Lightning CrackHVS 5b *34
174Mushin'f7C+ ***6
175Boozy Traverse
-
V8 *5
176Pindels NumbE4 6b *3
177Crystal GrazerE5 6a **5
178HeredityE6 6c 1
179A Fist Full of CrystalsE6 6b ***7
180DougE8 6c **3
181Fred's CafeVS 5a 17
 Yong Buttress 
183Yong ArÍteS 3c *157
184Poisonous PythonHVS 5b *45
185YongHVD 4a **1222
186Something Better ChangeE2 5b *313
187WisecrackVS 4b *54
188HypothesisHVS 5b **56
189Destination EarthE7 6b **2
 Bengal Buttress 
191Cannonball CrackS 4b *191
192GraffitiE1 5b *5
193Dorothy's DilemmaE1 5a **94
194Bengal ButtressHVS 4c **149
195SchooliesE3 5c *10
196Chain ReactionE3 6a *1
197Steps
-
E5 6b  
 Raven Rock 
199Crack of GloomE1 5b **50
200Raven Rock Gully Left-handVS 4b *210
201Raven Rock GullyD **482
202SwingerVS 4c 32
203SidewinderE5 6a  
204Via DolorosaVS 4c ***1101
205Via Dolorosa VariationsS 4a **31
206Valkyrie DirectHVS 5b **126
207MatineeHVS 5b **243
208The GutterV8 *84
209ValkyrieVS 4c ***2470
210Valkyrie cornerHS 4b 178
211Valkyrie Corner Flake VariantHS 4c *9
212Northern ComfortE6 6c **1
213Licence to KillE5 6b ***5
214Licence to RunE4 6a *19
215Licence to LustE4 6a * 
 The Swan Wall 
217Eugene's AxeE2 5c *40
218PebbledashHVS 5a **612
219Secrets of DanceE4 6a *4
220Against the GrainE6 7a ***2
221Thing on a SpringE6 7a ***3
222Up the SwaneeE4 5c **17
223The SwanE3 5c ***91
224Swan BankE4 5c *4
225The MincerHVS 5b ***526
 Smear Test Slab 
227Smear TestE3 6a **152
228PincerVS 5a *498
229Cold BloodE6 6b 1
230Kicking BirdE4 6a **27
231BloodstoneE5 6b **5
232BloodspeedE6 6b **1
233Guano GullyHS 4b 100
234Mousey's MistakeE2 5b 4
 Elegy Slab 
236A Little PeculiarE6 7a ** 
237ElegyE2 5c ***363
238Clive CoolheadE5 6b **15
239The BulgerVS 4c *333
240Dirty Wee RougeE3 6a  
241Fledglings ClimbS 4a *715
242Wing WingHS 4a 45
243Little ChimneyM 275
244Battery CrackVS 4b 42
245Lucas ChimneyS 4a *120
 Kestrel Buttress 
247GoldcrestE7 6c *** 
248HawkwingE1 5b ***435
249CarrionE3 5c *11
250Kestrel CrackVS 4b **578
251Headless HorsemanE1 5b 15
252Logical ProgressionE7 6c **1
253Sleepy HollowE10 7a *** 
254FlimneyS 4a 181
255AmaranthE4 5c  
256Death KnellE4 5c ***55
257Pooh's ConnectionE2 6a 1
258RhodrenHVS 5b *288
259Flake ChimneyD *286
 Chalkstorm Area 
261Straight CrackHS 4a 146
262PunchE3 6b *4
263ChokaE1 5c *70
264Circuit BreakerE3 6a *2
265Hunky DoryE3 6a ***91
266Prow CornerVD *1870
267Corner CracksHVD *1264
268Micro-StormE1 5c 24
269ChalkstormE4 5c **807
270Prow CracksVD **1966
271Prow Cracks VariationsHVD *661
272Commander EnergyE2 5c ***775
273Sumo CelluliteE4 6a **1
 Piece of Mind Slab 
275Rocking Stone GullyHVD 729
276Captain LethargyHVD 1272
277Sifta's QuidHS 4b *882
278Sifta's Quid Inside RouteS 3a 309
279Obsession FataleE8 6c ***59
280Piece of MindE6 6b ***80
281The Emergency ExitE6 6b 1
282Final DestinationE8 6c 1
283Thin AirE5 6a ***83
284The Roaches RidgeD 3a *63
285The Super GirdleE4 6a *** 
 Piece of Mind Boulders 
287Cottage ArÍte
-
V2 *18
288Cottage ArÍte Right
-
V1 8
289The Crystal MazeV9 2
290Open Bum Cleft
-
V3 16
291Sketchy ArÍte
-
V2 2
292Adventurous ArÍte
-
V3 3
293The Jams
-
V2 4
294Hanging ArÍte
-
V1 1
295The TeacupV1 15
296Grewsome
-
V3 13
297Twisted Crack
-
V4 22
298Left OffV3 7
299Off Work
-
V2 29
300Flake and ArÍte
-
V2 25
301Sticky WallV5 2
302Wildy's ArÍte
-
V3 108
303Wildy's ArÍte Sit-Start
-
V5 54
304Wildy's Right
-
V3 115
305Slab and Crack
-
V0- 137
306Slab and Crack - Left FinishV1 32
307Jobby
-
V0- 80
308MickyV0 39
309Little ArÍteV0- 17
310Lazy WallV0- 21
311Scab
-
V2 5
312Buster
-
V5 2
313Sail Slab
-
V0 116
314Mantel and Pocket
-
V0- 126
315Mantle and Pocket Sit-Start
-
V2 7
316Sail ArÍte
-
V0- 112
317Peer PressureV0 5
318Sail RibV0 115
319Tittersworth RibV2 72
320Tittersworth Rib Sit-Start
-
V4 17
321Weird Little 5c
-
V2 10
322Chips Ahoy
-
V2 63
323Left and Up
-
V0- 17
324The Stretch
-
V3 3
325RampV0 13
326The Potty
-
V0- 24
327Croissant Groove
-
V2 11
328Dropsy
-
V0+ 1
329The Blob
-
V1 2
330Crinkles Wall
-
V5 1
331Annie's Egg
-
V5 1
332Radical Runnel
-
V2 1
333Little MantelV0 2
334Flake and GrooveV0- 7
 Unknown Problems and Routes 
336Boxing Gloves and Roller SkatesVB *5
337Prow Corner Twin CracksHVD 4a *88
338Rock Room SlabV1 1
339The Staffordshire NoseED1 ***4
340Loose FlakesV0- 1
341Dirty CrackVB 2
342The Flake
-
V0 5
343Flake Crack
-
V0  
344P.17f4 2
345P.15f3+ 2
346P.18f3+ 1
347Blister slab stay low traverseV2 3
348Something Better Change RHE2 5b 2
349Block and Crack
-
VB 17
350The Fly Low StartV7 * 
351Turbo Extension *f8A ** 
352Greener Traverse - Turner's Extension *V7  
353The Staffordshire Man *V5+ ***1
354Slabotomy Lefthand *f7A+ ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Col Allott