Roaches Lower Tier

Climbs 327 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 410m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

Route grades and numbers (especially bouldering) are based on BMC The Staffordshire Gritstone Guide (2003)

Access notes
Very limited parking below the crag. There is a park and ride from Tittesworth Reservoir, off the A53 Buxton to Leek road (SK 993601), weekends only, May to September. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 SPRING BOULDERS 
 BOG BOULDER 
3Bog Arete LeftV0- 4b
4Bog Arete RightV3 6a
5Pebbles and SeamV2 6a *
6Bog MonsterV2 *
7Bog StandardV1 5c *
8Blind FlakeVB
9Bog SlabV0- 4a
10PoxyV0- 4c
11The SwingerV0+ 5a
12Runnel AreteVB *
13Undercut WallV0+ 5a
14Boo MeringueV1 5b
 SPRING BOULDER 
16Spring SlabV5 6b **
17C3POV7 6c ***
18Boba FettV8 6c *
19BobareteV7 6b *
20Easy WallVB
21SprungV3 6a
22SpratV0+ 5a
23Sprung - Standing versionV1 5b
24SpriteV0+ 5a
 LITTLE BOULDER 
26Spring Roll LeftV2
27Spring RollV0 5a *
28Slabby SeamV0 4a
29Blunt AreteV0- 4b
 GENTLE SLAB BOULDER 
31Low SlopesV1 5b
32The NoseV1 5b
33Wavy SlabV0+ 5a
34Centre SlabV0+ 5a
35Gentle SlabV0- 4b
36Slab to summitV0- 5a
 THE RAMP BOULDER 
38The Ramp (Melt)V2 5c *
39Ramphole of the RoachesV2 6a
40FlakesV0 5b
41Pod 'n' UpV2 5c
42Mid PodV1 5c
 LITTLE SUMMIT 
44Summit AreteV0- 4b
45MantelV0- 4b
46A Nother MantelV0+ 5a
 SHOTHOLE BOULDER 
48ViolenceV2 5c *
49ImpotenceV2 5c *
50LoutV1 5b *
51The ClawV2 5c *
52Seconds OutV2 5b *
53The GrindV6 6b *
54Skinned RabbitV4 6b *
55Skinned Rabbit Sit startV6 *
56Sin LeftV6 6b
57Sin (Arete on Right)f6C **
58Mr NiceV4 *
59Mr LeftV5 6b
60Arete on LeftV3 5c
61Ledgy AreteV0 4c
 THE FLY BOULDER 
63The FlyV4 6a *
64The LurchV5 6b *
65Heave Hof6A
66Scoop and RampV0- 5a
67Easy SlabV0- 4b
 LOWER TIER BOULDERS 
 DOUGLESS BOULDER 
70Particle ExchangeV6 6b *
71Doug-lessV4 6a *
72The RumourV7 6c
73Sketchy RibV2 5c
74Slabby AreteV0- 4b
75Chips and Flakef6A
76Green RibV0 4b
77Scratchy ScoopV3 6a
 BOULDER BEHIND 
79Lip TraverseV5 6b
80MantelV4 6b
 PINE TREE SLAB 
82Boss SlabV0 5a
83Pine SlabV2 5c
84Pine CrackV0- 4a
85Squeezy SlabV1 5b *
86Up ChipsV0- 4a
87ArchV0 5a
88Pine AreteV0 5a
89Pine Arete RightV0 5a
90Green SlabV3 6a
91Pine MartinV0 5a
 GREENER BOULDER 
93Easy RibV0 4b
94The Green GreenieV1 5c
95The Greener TraverseV3 5c **
96Greener ReverseV1 5+
97Greener MantelV2 6a
98Greener Mantel Sit StartV4 6b
99GreenerateV4 6b
 TWIN FLAKES 
101Henious MantelV7 6c
102Heinous MantelV5 6b
103Theo all the wayf7A
104The Uppercut (with arete)V3 6a
105The UppercutV4 6a
106The UndercutterV3 6a
107The GrasperV0 5a
108Green MantelV0- 4c
 THE BIG BLOCK 
110Black Nook SlabV0 4c
111Black Nook AreteV0 5a
112Pockets AreteV1 5b
113Three Pocket SlabV3 6a **
114Parental DutiesV8 6c *
115Heathery LedgeV2 5c
116Big Block GullyV0- 4a
117Sketchy WallV1 5b
118Bow CrackV3 5c
119Flake AreteV0 5a
120Big Block AreteV0 4c
121The Undercut TraverseV4 6a
122Stretch and MantelV5 6b ***
123Undercut DynoV8 6c *
124Stretch LeftV4 6a *
125Classic AreteV0 5a **
 BLISTER SLAB 
127Left SlabV0- 4a
128Slab 2V0- 4a
129Blister's SisterV0- 4c
130Blister SlabV0+ 5a
131Back Slab RightV0- 4a
 FAR LEFT LOWER TIER 
133Malted Milkf6C **
134Boobidgef6A
135Double DV5 *
136Drop BearsHVS 5b
137Slabotomyf7C ***
138Beware CoconutsVS 4b
139Burrito DeluxeE3 5c
140National HeroE2 5c
 ASCENT OF MAN BUTTRESS 
142Snap, Crackle and Andy PoppE1 5c
143Apache DawnE5 6c *
144Catastrophe InternationaleE5 6c ***
145Slippery JimHVS 5b
146Bareback RiderE4 6b *
147K.P. NutsE7 6c *
148Ascent of ManE3 6a ***
149Ascent of WomanE3 6a *
150Traverse of ManV2 5c
151Ascent of Man StartV2 6a **
152Bow CrackV2 5c
153Days of Future PassedE3 6b *
 TECK CRACK BUTTRESS 
155The AspirantE3 5c *
156AckitHVS 5b **
157Just For TodayE6 7a **
158Barriers in TimeE6 6b ***
159Sunday at ChapelE6 6c **
160Ant LivesV6 6b *
161Inertia ReelV8 6c ***
162TurboV11 7a *
163Thudf7B 6c *
164Teck Crack DirectV4 6b *
165Teck Crack Super DirectV9 6c *
166The Dignity of LabourV6 6b **
167A Modest ProposalV6 6b *
168Teck CrackHVS 5b *
169Joe's Hanging CrackE3 6a *
170Skydivin'V4 6b *
171Inertia Reel TraverseV12 7a ***
172Lightning CrackHVS 5b *
173Mushin'V10 7a ***
174Boozy TraverseV8 6b *
175Pindels NumbE4 6b *
176Crystal GrazerE5 6a **
177HeredityE6 6c
178A Fist Full of CrystalsE6 6b ***
179DougE8 6c **
180Fred's CafeVS 5a
 YONG BUTTRESS 
182Yong AreteS 3c *
183Poisonous PythonE2 5b *
184YongHVD 4a **
185Something Better ChangeE2 5b. *
186WisecrackVS 4b *
187HypothesisHVS 5b **
188Destination EarthE7 6b **
 BENGAL BUTTRESS 
190Cannonball CrackS 4b *
191GraffitiE1 5b *
192Dorothy's DilemmaE1 5a **
193Bengal ButtressHVS 4c **
194SchooliesE3 5c *
195StepsE5 6b
 RAVEN ROCK 
197Crack of GloomE1 5b **
198Raven Rock Gully Left-handVS 4b *
199Raven Rock GullyD **
200SwingerVS 4c
201SidewinderE5 6a
202Via DolorosaVS 4c ***
203Via Dolorosa VariationsS 4a **
204Valkyrie DirectHVS 5b **
205MatineeHVS 5b **
206The GutterV8 6c *
207ValkyrieVS 4c ***
208Valkyrie cornerHS 4b
209Valkyrie Corner Flake VariantHS 4c *
210Northern ComfortE6 6c **
211Licence to KillE5 6b ***
212Licence to RunE4 6a *
213Licence to LustE4 6a *
 THE SWAN WALL 
215Eugene's AxeE2 5c *
216PebbledashHVS 5a **
217Secrets of DanceE4 6a *
218Against the GrainE6 7a ***
219Thing on a SpringE6 7a ***
220Up the SwaneeE4 5c **
221The SwanE3 5c ***
222Swan BankE4 5c *
223The MincerHVS 5b ***
 SMEAR TEST SLAB 
225Smear TestE3 6a **
226PincerVS 5a *
227Cold BloodE6 6b
228Kicking BirdE4 6a **
229BloodstoneE5 6b **
230BloodspeedE6 6b **
231Guano GullyVS 4c
232Mousey's MistakeE2 5b
 ELEGY SLAB 
234A Little PeculiarE6 7b **
235ElegyE2 5c ***
236Clive CoolheadE5 6b **
237The BulgerVS 4c *
238Dirty Wee RougeE3 6a
239Fledglings ClimbS 4a *
240Wing WingHS 4a
241Little ChimneyM
242Battery CrackVS 4b
243Lucas ChimneyS 4a *
 KESTREL BUTTRESS 
245GoldcrestE7 6c ***
246HawkwingE1 5b ***
247CarrionE3 5c *
248Kestrel CrackVS 4b **
249Headless HorsemanE1 5b
250Logical ProgressionE7 6c **
251Sleepy HollowE10 7a ***
252FlimneyS 4a
253AmaranthE4 5c
254Death KnellE4 5c ***
255Pooh's ConnectionE2 6a
256RhodrenHVS 5b *
257Flake ChimneyD *
 CHALKSTORM AREA 
259Straight CrackHS 4a
260PunchE3 6b *
261ChokaE1 5c *
262Circuit BreakerE3 6a *
263Hunky DoryE3 6a ***
264Prow CornerVD *
265Corner CracksHVD *
266Micro-StormE1 5c
267ChalkstormE4 5c **
268Prow CracksVD **
269Prow Cracks VariationsHVD *
270Commander EnergyE2 5c ***
271Sumo CelluliteE4 6a **
 PIECE OF MIND SLAB 
273Rocking Stone GullyHVD
274Captain LethargyHVD
275Sifta's QuidHS 4b *
276Sifta's Quid Inside RouteS 3a
277Obsession FataleE7 6b ***
278Piece of MindE6 6b ***
279The Emergency ExitE6 6b
280Final DestinationE8 6c
281Thin AirE5 6a ***
282The Roaches RidgeD 3a *
283The Super GirdleE4 6a ***
 PIECE OF MIND BOULDERS 
285Cottage AreteV2 5c *
286Cottage Arete RightV1 5b
287The Crystal MazeV9
288Open Bum CleftV3 6a
289Sketchy AreteV2 5c
290Adventurous AreteV3 5c
291The JamsV2 5c
292Hanging AreteV1 5b
293The TeacupV1 5b
294GrewsomeV3 6a
295Twisted CrackV4 6b
296Left OffV3 5c
297Off WorkV2 5c
298Flake and AreteV2 5c
299Sticky WallV5 6b
300Wildy's AreteV3 6a
301Wildy's Arete Sit StartV5 6b
302Wildy's RightV3 6a
303Slab and CrackV0- 4a
304Slab and Crack - Left FinishV1 5b
305JobbyV0- 4b
306MickyV0 4a
307Little AreteV0- 4a
308Lazy WallV0- 4b
309ScabV2 5c
310BusterV5 6b
311Sail SlabV0 4a
312Mantel and PocketV0- 4a
313Mantle and Pocket Sit StartV2 5c
314Sail AreteV0- 4a
315Peer PressureV0 4c
316Sail RibV0 4c
317Tittersworth RibV2 5b
318Tittersworth Rib - Sit StartV4 6b
319Weird Little 5cV2 6a
320Chips AhoyV2 5b
321Left and UpV0- 4b
322The StretchV3 6a
323RampV0 5a
324The PottyV0- 4a
325Croissant GrooveV2 5c
326DropsyV0+ 5a
327The BlobV1 5b
328Crinkles WallV5 6b
329Annie's EggV5 6a
330Radical RunnelV2 5c
331Little MantelV0 5a
332Flake and GrooveV0- 4a
 UNKNOWN PROBLEMS AND ROUTES 
334Boxing Gloves and Roller Skates VB *
335Prow Corner Twin Cracks *HVD 4a *
336Rock Room Slab *V1 5b
337Ascent of woman start *f6B
338The Staffordshire NoseED1 ***
339Loose Flakes *V0-
340Dirty Crack *VB
341The Flake *V0
342Flake Crack *V0 4
343P.17 *f4
344P.15 *f3+
345P.18 *f3+
346Blister slab stay low traverse *V2 5b
347Something Better Change RH *E2 5b
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Col Allott

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These details were last updated on 12/Nov/2013
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