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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SK 005623 (OS Landranger #119)

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These details were last updated on 14/Mar/2011

Roaches Lower Tier

Staffordshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 319 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 410m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Magnificent imposing buttresses of superb natural grit up to 30m high. Shaded in summer, but slow to dry and green early in the year. 'Must do' routes include the astounding Valkrie (VS 4c), the delectable Elegy (E2 5c) and the immaculate The Swan (E3 5c). Slab and crystal lovers will be sated with a unique collection of desperate routes, the hardest of which is Doug (E8 6c). Some of the best bouldering on grit can be found both in the woods and on the spring boulders

Route grades and numbers (especially bouldering) are based on BMC The Staffordshire Gritstone Guide (2003)

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Western Grit (2009), Staffordshire Gritstone, The Roaches (2009), Peak District : Climbing (2008), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003), Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 SPRING BOULDERS  
 LITTLE BOULDER  
3Spring RollV0 5a *61
4Spring Roll LeftV2 18
5Gentle SlabV0- 4b 48
6Centre Slab (2-2003 guide)V0- 4b 27
7Wavy Slab (3-2003 guide)V0- 4a 31
8The Nose (4-2003 guide)V1 5b 19
9Low Slopes (5-2003 guide)V1 5b 10
10Spring boulders 10 (Blunt Arete)V0- 4b 56
11Slabby Seam (11-2003 guide)V0 4a 62
 SPRING BOULDER  
13BobareteV7 6b *7
14Boba FettV8 6c * 
15C3POV7 6c ***48
16Spring SlabV5 6b **68
17SpriteV0 5a 51
18SpratV0+ 5a 62
19SprungV3 6a 48
20Easy Wall (19-2003 guide)V0- 4a 63
 BOG BOULDER  
22Spring boulders 20 (Blind Flake)VB 48
23Bog MonsterV2 *66
24Pebbles and SeamV2 6a *31
25Pebbly WallV5 6b *8
26Bog Arete RightV3 6a 12
27Spring boulders 25 (Easy Scoops)V0- 4b 55
28Spring boulders 26 (Undercut Wall)V0- 4c 43
29Spring Boulders 27V1 *42
30Spring Boulders 28V2 40
31Spring boulders 29 (Chipped Slab)V0- 4a 48
32Bog SlabV0- 4a 40
33Boo MeringueV1 5b 6
34PoxyV0- 4c 23
 LITTLE SUMMIT  
36Slab to summitV0- 5a 41
37Summit AreteV0- 4b 47
38MantelV0- 4b 31
39A Nother MantelV0+ 5a 23
 SHOTHOLE BOULDER  
41ViolenceV2 5c *27
42ImpotenceV2 5c *23
43LoutV1 5b *16
44Seconds OutV2 5b *29
45Skinned RabbitV4 6b *7
46Skinned Rabbit Sit startV6 *6
47The GrindV6 6b *3
48Arete on LeftV6 6b 2
49Sin (Arete on Right)f6C **4
50Mr NiceV4 *4
51Arete on LeftV3 5c 3
52Mr LeftV5 6b  
53Spring Boulders 38 (The Claw)V2 5c *10
54Spring boulders 42 (Ledgy Arete)V0 4c 16
 THE RAMP BOULDER  
56Easy SlabV0- 4b 20
57Scoop and RampV0- 5a 19
58Ramphole of the RoachesV2 6a 8
 THE FLY BOULDER  
60The LurchV5 6b *10
61The FlyV4 6a *6
 LOWER TIER BOULDERS  
63Easy RibV0 4b 51
 GREENER BOULDER  
65The Greener TraverseV3 5c **206
66The Green GreenieV1 5c 79
67Greener Mantel Sit StartV4 6b 18
68Greener MantelV2 6a 66
69GreenerateV4 6b 50
 TWIN FLAKES  
71Henious MantelV7 6c 12
72Theo all the wayf7A ** 
73The Uppercut (with arete)V3 6a 55
74The UppercutV4 6a 23
75The UndercutterV3 6a 96
76The GrasperV0 5a 101
77Green MantelV0- 4c 25
 PINE TREE SLAB  
79Boss SlabV0 5a 162
80Pine SlabV0+ 5a 210
81Pine CrackV0- 4a 310
82Squeezy SlabV1 5a *194
83Up ChipsV0- 4a 287
84ArchV0 5a 136
85Pine AreteV0 5a 116
86Pine Arete RightV0 5a 83
87Green SlabV3 6a 44
88Pine MartinV0 5a 198
 BOULDER BEHIND  
90Lip Traverse (22-2003 guide)V5 6b 1
91Mantel (23-2003 guide)V4 6b 6
 THE BIG BLOCK  
93Classic AreteV0 5a **349
94Stretch LeftV4 6a *68
95Big DynoV8 6c *53
96Stretch and MantelV5 6b ***137
97Flake AreteV0 5a 103
98The Undercut TraverseV4 6a 10
99Big Block AreteV0 4c 56
100Bow CrackV3 5c 20
101Big Block GullyV0- 4a 97
102Heathery LedgeV2 5c 15
103Parental DutiesV8 6c *3
104Three Pocket SlabV3 6a **563
105Pockets AreteV1 5b 72
106Black Nook AreteV0 5a 119
107Black Nook SlabV0 4c 153
 BLISTER SLAB  
109Left SlabV0- 4a 224
110Slab 2V0- 4a 92
111Blister's SisterV0- 4c 229
112Blister SlabV0+ 5b 218
113Back Slab RightV0- 4a 198
 FAR LEFT LOWER TIER  
115Malted Milkf6C **1
116Boobidgef6A 1
117Drop BearsHVS 5b 2
118Slabotomyf7C ***2
119Beware CoconutsVS 4b 1
120Burrito DeluxeE3 5c  
121National HeroE2 5c 1
 ASCENT OF MAN BUTTRESS  
123Snap, Crackle and Andy PoppE1 5c 1
124Apache DawnE5 6c *2
125Catastrophe InternationaleE5 6c ***6
126Slippery JimHVS 5b 35
127Bareback RiderE4 6b *16
128K.P. NutsE7 6c *1
129Ascent of ManE3 6a ***93
130Ascent of WomanE3 6a *9
131Traverse of ManV2 5c 20
132Ascent of Man StartV2 6a **26
133Bow CrackV2 5c 7
134Days of Future PassedE3 6b *4
 TECK CRACK BUTTRESS  
136The AspirantE3 5c *3
137AckitHVS 5b **84
138Just For TodayE6 7a ** 
139Barriers in TimeE6 6b ***11
140Sunday at ChapelE6 6c **1
141Ant LivesV6 6b *7
142Inertia ReelV8 6c ***4
143TurboV11 7a *1
144Thudf7B 6c *8
145Teck Crack DirectV4 6b *47
146Teck Crack Super DirectV9 6c * 
147The Dignity of LabourV6 6b **8
148A Modest ProposalV6 6b *5
149Teck CrackHVS 5b *36
150Joe's Hanging CrackE3 6a *3
151Skydivin'V4 6b *1
152Inertia Reel TraverseV12 7a ***1
153Lightning CrackHVS 5b *19
154Mushin'V10 7a ***4
155Boozy TraverseV8 6b *5
156Pindels NumbE4 6b *3
157Crystal GrazerE5 6a **3
158HeredityE6 6c 1
159A Fist Full of CrystalsE6 6b ***6
160DougE8 6c **3
161Fred's CafeVS 5a 13
 YONG BUTTRESS  
163Yong AreteS 3c *103
164Poisonous PythonE2 5b *34
165YongHVD 4a **765
166Something Better ChangeE2 5b. *211
167WisecrackVS 4b *37
168HypothesisHVS 5b **38
169Destination EarthE7 6b **2
 BENGAL BUTTRESS  
171Cannonball CrackS 4b *130
172GraffitiE1 5b *4
173Dorothy's DilemmaE1 5a **61
174Bengal ButtressHVS 4c **107
175SchooliesE3 5c *8
 Climb nameGradex
176StepsE5 6b  
 RAVEN ROCK  
178Crack of GloomE1 5b **24
179Raven Rock Gully Left-handVS 4b *138
180Raven Rock GullyD **336
181SwingerVS 4c 27
182SidewinderE5 6a  
183Via DolorosaVS 4c ***666
184Via Dolorosa VariationsS 4a **16
185Valkyrie DirectHVS 5b **77
186MatineeHVS 5b **104
187The GutterV8 6c *67
188ValkyrieVS 4c ***1357
189Valkyrie cornerHS 4b 113
190Valkyrie Corner Flake VariantHS 4c *3
191Northern ComfortE6 6c **1
192Licence to KillE5 6b ***2
193Licence to RunE4 6a *17
194Licence to LustE4 6a * 
 THE SWAN WALL  
196Eugene's AxeE2 5c *31
197PebbledashHVS 5a **366
198Secrets of DanceE4 6a *2
199Against the GrainE6 7a ***2
200Thing on a SpringE6 7a ***3
201Up the SwaneeE4 5c **12
202The SwanE3 5c ***62
203Swan BankE4 5c *1
204The MincerHVS 5b ***294
 SMEAR TEST SLAB  
206Smear TestE3 6a **98
207PincerVS 5a *338
208Kicking BirdE4 6a **14
209BloodstoneE5 6b **3
210BloodspeedE6 6b ** 
211Guano GullyVS 4c 80
212Mousey's MistakeE2 5b 3
 ELEGY SLAB  
214A Little PeculiarE6 7b ** 
215ElegyE2 5c ***248
216Clive CoolheadE5 6b **11
217The BulgerVS 4c *211
218Dirty Wee RougeE3 6a  
219Fledglings ClimbS 4a *481
220Wing WingHS 4a 17
221Little ChimneyM 193
222Battery CrackVS 4b 35
223Lucas ChimneyS 4a *92
 KESTREL BUTTRESS  
225GoldcrestE7 6c *** 
226HawkwingE1 5b ***310
227CarrionE3 5c *4
228Kestrel CrackVS 4b **363
229Headless HorsemanE1 5b 12
230Logical ProgressionE7 6c ** 
231FlimneyS 4a 127
232AmaranthE4 5c  
233Death KnellE4 5c ***33
234Pooh's ConnectionE2 6a 1
235RhodrenHVS 5b *174
236Flake ChimneyD *196
 CHALKSTORM AREA  
238Straight CrackHS 4a 100
239PunchE3 6b *4
240ChokaE1 5c *43
241Circuit BreakerE3 6a *1
242Hunky DoryE3 6a ***67
243Prow CornerVD *1288
244Corner CracksHVD *849
245Micro-StormE1 5c 19
246ChalkstormE4 5c **569
247Prow CracksVD **1342
248Prow Cracks VariationsHVD *450
249Commander EnergyE2 5c ***440
 PIECE OF MIND SLAB  
251Rocking Stone GullyHVD 539
252Captain LethargyHVD 874
253Sifta's QuidHS 4b *609
254Sifta's Quid Inside RouteS 3a 193
255Obsession FataleE7 6b ***49
256Piece of MindE6 6b ***71
257The Emergency ExitE6 6b 1
258Final DestinationE8 6c 1
259Thin AirE5 6a ***59
260The Roaches RidgeD 3a *39
261The Super GirdleE4 6a *** 
 PIECE OF MIND BOULDERS  
263Piece of Mind boulders 1 (Arete on Left)V1 10
264Cottage Arete left sideV1 5b 4
265Piece of Mind boulders 2 (Arete on Right)V1 5c 5
266Open Bum CleftV3 6a 10
267Piece of Mind boulders 4 (Sketchy Arete)V2 5c 2
268Piece of Mind boulders 5 (Adventurous Arete)V3 5c 3
269Sail SlabV0 4a 66
270Mantel and PocketV0- 4a 81
271Sail AreteV2 5c 57
272Sail ribV0 5a 39
273Piece of Mind boulders 8aV2 5c 8
274Piece of Mind boulders 9V3 6a 14
275Piece of Mind boulders 10V2 5c 18
276Tittersworth RibV2 5b 35
277Tittersworth rib sittingV4 6b 10
278Piece of Mind boulders 12 (Arete on Right)V2 5c 12
279Piece of Mind boulders 13 (Weird Little 5c)V2 6a 10
280Piece of Mind boulders 14 (Chips Ahoy)V2 5b 37
281Piece of Mind boulders 15 (Left and Up)V0- 4b 14
282Piece of Mind boulders 16 (The Stretch)V3 6a 2
283Piece of Mind boulders 17V0- 5a 6
284The PottyV0- 4a 15
285Croissant GrooveV2 5c 6
286ScabV2 5c 4
287BusterV5 6b 1
288Piece of Mind boulders 23V0- 4a 9
289Piece of Mind boulders 24V0- 4b 16
290Piece of Mind boulders 25 (Easy Arete)V0- 4b 27
291Piece of Mind boulders 26 (Slab And Crack)V0- 4c 48
292Piece of Mind boulders 27V1 5c 11
293Wildy's RightV3 6a 52
294Wildy's AreteV3 6a 48
295Wildy's Arete Sit StartV5 6b 25
296Slab and CrackV0- 4a 39
297Slab and crack left finishV1 5b 8
298MickyV0 4a 13
299Piece of Mind boulders 31V5 6b 1
300Piece of Mind boulders 32 (Flake and Arete)V2 5c 7
301Off WorkV2 5c 14
302Piece of Mind boulders 34 (Left Off)V3 5c 2
303Twisted crackV4 6b 11
304The TeacupV1 5b 7
305Piece of Mind boulders 36 (Grewsome)V4 6a 3
306The JamsV2 5c 4
307Piece of Mind boulders 38V1 5b 1
308Piece of Mind boulders 40V1 5a 1
309The BlobV1 5b 2
310Crinkles WallV5 6b 1
311Annie's EggV5 6a 1
312Piece of Mind boulders 46 (Radical Runnel)V2 5c 1
313Piece of Mind boulders 48 (Little Mantel)V0 5a 2
314Piece of Mind boulders 50 (Flake and Groove)V0- 4a 5
 DOUGLESS BOULDER  
316Particle ExchangeV6 6b * 
317Doug-lessV4 6a * 
318The RumourV7 6c 1
319Sketchy RibV2 5c 1
320Slabby AreteV0- 4b 11
321Chips and Flakef6A 7
322Green RibV0 4b 3
323Scratchy ScoopV3 6a 2
 ?  
325Spring Boulders 9V1 5c 3
326Spring Boulders 19V0- 4a 8
327Spring boulders 55 (Flakes)V0 5b 7
328Spring Boulders 56V2 5c 3
329Spring Boulders 57V1 5c 3
330Problem 27 boulder Ff6A *3
331Boxing Gloves and Roller SkatesVB *4
332Sping Boulders 18 *V1 5b 2
333Mantle and Pocket Sit Start (Piece of mind boulder 7a) *V2 5c 3
334Greener Reverse *V1 5+ 9
335Lower Tier Boulders - Crack *font 3 *6
336Lower Tier Boulders - Slab *font 4+ 5
337Lower Tier Boulders - Problem 7 *font 4+ *2
338Jobby *V0- 11
339Bog Standard *V1 5c *4
340Peer Pressure *V0 4c 1
341Bog Arete Left *V0- 1
342The Flake *V0+ *5
343Cold BloodE6 6b 1
344Prow Corner Twin Cracks *HVD 4a 11
345Heave ho *f6A 1
346Melt *font 5+ *1
3476a Hole - Next to Melt *f6A  
348Cottage Arete *V2 5c *1
349Sumo Cellulite *E4 6a **1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Very limited parking below the crag. There is a park and ride from Tittesworth Reservoir, off the A53 Buxton to Leek road (SK 993601), weekends only, May to September. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

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