Climbs 200
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 3220m a.s.l
Faces all

Evening light on the North Face of Monte Civetta. © James Rushforth

Crag features

Monte Civetta is shaped like an inverted Y with the Torre di Coldai at the NE end and Torre Trieste forming the SW end. There are many pinnacles and ridges in-between. The routes up the central North facing wall are all universally long and serious propositions. Ice can be encountered in the gullies and chimneys throughout the summer and the rock isnt all that solid. Here they have been represented by the local trad grad but it would be fair to give most of them a mountaineering grade. For those looking for something slightly less serious (though still not to be underestimated) the Via Ferrata Alleghesi (VF4C) is not to be missed.

By contrast Moiazza to the South separated by Forcella delle Sasse offers sunny climbing on good rock with easy approaches and descents.

In the winter its well worth a trip to the flanks of Torre di Coldai to climb the two spectacular icefalls Paperoga (WI3+) and Hypercoldai (WI4).

Approach notes

Monte Civetta can be accessed from either Alleghe to the North or from Pecol to the East depending upon the itinery.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Torre di Coldai (2600m) 
2North-North-West Face (Direct route)
-
IV+  
3Paperoga
-
WI-3+ *** 
4Hypercoldai
-
WI-4 *** 
 Torre d'Alleghe (2649m) 
6East Face
-
IV  
7North-West Face of North Pillar
-
VII-  
8North-West Face of South Pillar
-
VII a0  
9South-West Face
-
V+  
 Torre di Valgrande (2715m) 
11North-East Pillar
-
IV+  
12North-West Face
-
VII+  
13South Face (Via Delle Guide)
-
VII  
 Pan di Zucchero (2780m) 
15East Face (Pan di Zucchero)
-
V+  
16North-West & North Face
-
V+  
 Punta Civetta (2920m) 
18North-West Face (Andrich)
-
VI  
19North-West Face (Aste)
-
VI+  
 Punta Tissi (2992m) 
21North-West Face (Philipp-Flamm)
-
VII ***3
 Monte Civetta (3220m) 
23Normal Route from East
-
II  
24Via Ferrata AlleghesiVF4C ***6
25Via Ferrata Attilio Tissi
-
VF4C **3
26North-West Face (Comici)
-
VI *** 
27North-West Face (Friends Route)
-
V+ a2 ** 
28North-West Face (Solleder)V+ *** 
 Cima Su Alto (2951m) 
30North-West Face (Livanos Diedre)
-
VII  
31North-West Face (Ratti)
-
V+ *** 
 Cima della Terranova (2900m) 
33North-West Face (Livanos)
-
VI a2 * 
 Campanile di Brabante (2252m) 
35North-West Ridge
-
VI-  
 Guglia della XLIII Legione Alpina Piave (2702m) 
37North-East & North-West Face
-
V  
38South-East Ridge
-
V-  
 Anticima (2245m) 
40West-North-West Face Direct
-
IV+  
 Punta Agordo (2290m) 
42West Face (Agordo Diedre)
-
IV+ *4
 Torre Venezia (2337m) 
44West Face
-
IV **2
45South-West Arete
-
V+ ***2
46South-South-West Face
-
V+ ** 
47Andrich FaeVS **3
48South Face Direct (Tissi)
-
VI- ***13
 Cima del Bancon (2346m) 
50East Face (Da Roit)
-
VII- * 
 Torre di Babele (2310m) 
52South Arete (Solda)
-
VI- 3
53East Face (Goedeke)
-
VI+ * 
 Cima della Busazza (2894m) 
55West Face (Gilberti)
-
V+ *** 
 Castello della Busazza (2592m) 
57South Face
-
V+  
 Torre Trieste (2458m) 
59West Ridge
-
VI- *** 
60South Face (Carlesso)
-
VIII- *** 
61South-East Ridge (Cassin)
-
VII+ ***3
 Scalet delle Masenade (2147m) 
63South-South-West Face (Via Decima)
-
V ***2
 Pala delle Masenade (2413m) 
65South-East Face (Solda)
-
VI 1
66South-East Face (Bonetti Crack)
-
VII  
 Pala del Belia (2295m) 
68South-East Face (Soraru Arete)
-
V+  
 Croda Paola 
70South Face (Benvegnu)
-
VI- * 
71South-East Arete (Solda)
-
V+  
 Torre Jolanda (2403m) 
73South-West Arete (Via Topo)
-
IV+ ** 
74South Face (Via Super Soro)
-
V *** 
 Sasso di Caleda (2132m) 
76South-West Arete (Benvegnu)
-
VII- ** 

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Rushforth