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These details were last updated on 12/Feb/2011

Civetta Group

Dolomites, ITALY

Climbs 200 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 3220m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Monte Civetta is shaped like an inverted Y with the Torre di Coldai at the NE end and Torre Trieste forming the SW end. There are many pinnacles and ridges in-between. The routes up the central North facing wall are all universally long and serious propositions. Ice can be encountered in the gullies and chimneys throughout the summer and the rock isnt all that solid. Here they have been represented by the local trad grad but it would be fair to give most of them a mountaineering grade. For those looking for something slightly less serious (though still not to be underestimated) the Via Ferrata Alleghesi (VF4C) is not to be missed.

By contrast Moiazza to the South separated by Forcella delle Sasse offers sunny climbing on good rock with easy approaches and descents.

In the winter its well worth a trip to the flanks of Torre di Coldai to climb the two spectacular icefalls Paperoga (WI3+) and Hypercoldai (WI4).

Guidebooks
Ghiaccio Verticale Vol2 (2006), Dolomites West and East (2005),
Out of print: Classic Dolomite Climbs (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 TORRE DI COLDAI (2600M)  
2North-North-West Face (Direct route)IV+  
3PaperogaWI3+ *** 
4HypercoldaiWI4 *** 
 TORRE D'ALLEGHE (2649M)  
6East FaceIV  
7North-West Face of North PillarVII-  
8North-West Face of South PillarVII a0  
9South-West FaceV+  
 TORRE DI VALGRANDE (2715M)  
11North-East PillarIV+  
12North-West FaceVII+  
13South Face (Via Delle Guide)VII  
 PAN DI ZUCCHERO (2780M)  
15East Face (Pan di Zucchero)V+  
16North-West & North FaceV+  
 PUNTA CIVETTA (2920M)  
18North-West Face (Andrich)VI  
19North-West Face (Aste)VI+  
 PUNTA TISSI (2992M)  
21North-West Face (Philipp-Flamm)VII ***3
 MONTE CIVETTA (3220M)  
23Normal Route from EastII  
24Via Ferrata AlleghesiVF4C ***4
25Via Ferrata Attilio TissiVF4C **3
26North-West Face (Comici)VI *** 
27North-West Face (Friends Route)V+ a2 ** 
28North-West Face (Solleder)V+ *** 
 CIMA SU ALTO (2951M)  
30North-West Face (Livanos Diedre)VII  
31North-West Face (Ratti)V+ *** 
 CIMA DELLA TERRANOVA (2900M)  
33North-West Face (Livanos)VI a2 * 
 CAMPANILE DI BRABANTE (2252M)  
35North-West RidgeVI-  
 GUGLIA DELLA XLIII LEGIONE ALPINA PIAVE (2702M)  
37North-East & North-West FaceV  
38South-East RidgeV-  
 Climb nameGradex
 ANTICIMA (2245M)  
40West-North-West Face DirectIV+  
 PUNTA AGORDO (2290M)  
42West Face (Agordo Diedre)IV+ *4
 TORRE VENEZIA (2337M)  
44West FaceIV **1
45South-West AreteV+ ***2
46South-South-West FaceV+ ** 
47Andrich FaeVS **2
48South Face Direct (Tissi)VI- ***12
 CIMA DEL BANCON (2346M)  
50East Face (Da Roit)VII- * 
 TORRE DI BABELE (2310M)  
52South Arete (Solda)VI- 3
53East Face (Goedeke)VI+ * 
 CIMA DELLA BUSAZZA (2894M)  
55West Face (Gilberti)V+ *** 
 CASTELLO DELLA BUSAZZA (2592M)  
57South FaceV+  
 TORRE TRIESTE (2458M)  
59West RidgeVI- *** 
60South Face (Carlesso)VIII- *** 
61South-East Ridge (Cassin)VII+ ***2
 SCALET DELLE MASENADE (2147M)  
63South-South-West Face (Via Decima)V ***1
 PALA DELLE MASENADE (2413M)  
65South-East Face (Solda)VI 1
66South-East Face (Bonetti Crack)VII  
 PALA DEL BELIA (2295M)  
68South-East Face (Soraru Arete)V+  
 CRODA PAOLA  
70South Face (Benvegnu)VI- * 
71South-East Arete (Solda)V+  
 TORRE JOLANDA (2403M)  
73South-West Arete (Via Topo)IV+ ** 
74South Face (Via Super Soro)V *** 
 SASSO DI CALEDA (2132M)  
76South-West Arete (Benvegnu)VII- ** 
Access notes
Monte Civetta can be accessed from either Alleghe to the North or from Pecol to the East depending upon the itinery.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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