Civetta Group Dolomites, ITALY
Climbs 200 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 3220m a.s.l – Faces all
Monte Civetta is shaped like an inverted ‘Y’ with the Torre di Coldai at the NE end and Torre Trieste forming the SW end. There are many pinnacles and ridges in-between. The routes up the central North facing wall are all universally long and serious propositions. Ice can be encountered in the gullies and chimneys throughout the summer and the rock isn’t all that solid. Here they have been represented by the local trad grad but it would be fair to give most of them a mountaineering grade. For those looking for something slightly less serious (though still not to be underestimated) the Via Ferrata Alleghesi (VF4C) is not to be missed.
By contrast Moiazza to the South separated by Forcella delle Sasse offers sunny climbing on good rock with easy approaches and descents.
In the winter it’s well worth a trip to the flanks of Torre di Coldai to climb the two spectacular icefalls Paperoga (WI3+) and Hypercoldai (WI4).
Monte Civetta can be accessed from either Alleghe to the North or from Pecol to the East depending upon the itinery.
Ghiaccio Verticale Vol2 (2006), Dolomites West and East (2005),
Out of print: Classic Dolomite Climbs (1988)
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