Climbs 73
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces NE

brixton climber in south sandstone. bulls hollow © brixton climber

Crag features

Up to 8m in height, soft under foot in places at the base and some fragile holds. Secluded and shaded, and hence slower to come into condition, but a change from the bigger places if you're in the area.

The Sandstone Volunteers Group cleared the crag in 2003 and it is now much more open.

Many climbs have bolts above but you will need a second static rope to ensure your belay karabiner extends over the edge of the crag to avoid damage from moving ropes. A carpet sample is crucial to clean your feet before climbing & thereby avoid further damage to the rock.

Approach notes

NO LEADING - soloing or toproping only, and if the latter then extend the belay over the crag edge - it saves your rope and the rock.
From Tunbridge Wells take the A264 towards E. Grinstead along the N side of Tun Wells common. 300m after the Spa Hotel turn R into Rusthall Road and after 150m, R again into Harmony Street (signpost Toad Rock). The road bends right and then left at a junction with Rusthall Park. The crag is in the wood gained by following the track heading south east from this junction for 100m.
Parking available on the road by Toad Rock further down Harmony Street. Please do not park in Rusthall Park.

There are various wasps nests this season, be warned!
alan1234 - 06/Jul/11
lovely day on the 14th april.The start are alwayse slimy, that make the place so untertaining. i love it.
brixton climber - 15/May/07
Short way from tunbridge wells station, good for perfecting sandstone technique, although a bit slimy early in the season/ easy to help beginnners.
SLewis - 20/Apr/06
May 2005 - Coming nicely into condition. Many repeats of routes not climbed for years!
Graham Ad - 12/May/05
The crag has been cleaned and is now very climbable.. More traffic is needed to remove the last of the slime Volunteers?
A>croft - 10/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Waistline
-
none 5a *4
2Broken Cracknone 3a 4
3The Chasmnone 3b 3
4Tree Climbnone 2a 4
5Sandcastlenone 5c  
6Yew Wallnone 5c *2
7Poltergeist
-
none 5c *2
8Yellowstone Wall
-
none 3b 8
9yellowstone cracknone 4b 7
10The Scoop
-
none 6a *3
11Possibility Wallnone 4b **36
12Impossibility
-
none 5b *7
13The Tarnished Victorynone 5c *2
14Trident leftnone 1b 9
15Trident Chimneynone 2b 8
16Apisnone 4b 16
17Cellar Wall
-
none 2a 1
18Coal Cellarnone 2a 18
19Solonone 4b 21
20Blasphemy
-
none 4a 11
21Conway's Variation
-
none 3b *23
22Conway's Buttress
-
none 3b *31
23Newman's ArÍtenone 4c **2
24Conway's Cracknone 4b **73
25Hanging Cracknone 5c *1
26Bramble Cornernone 4c ***57
27Knottnone 5c **27
28The Shieldnone 6a ***4
29The Wallnone 5c ***29
30Centurion's Groovenone 4c **68
31Pseudonymnone 5c **14
32Broken Nosenone 5b **26
33Slab Chimney
-
none 3a 10
34Slab Variantnone 4c ***60
35Time Waits for No One
-
none 6b * 
36Full Moonnone 5a *16
37Triangle Climbnone 2a 10
38Triangle Aretenone 5b 5
39Handle with Carenone 6a 1
40Crossplynone 5b *8
41The Burglar and the Carving Knife
-
none 5b  
42The Bitch and the Meal Ticket
-
none 5c 1
43Gangway Wallnone 3c **28
44Square cut
-
none 5c *2
45Overhanging crack
-
none 4c 6
46Birch Tree Buttressnone 2a 6
47Toad Wallnone 2b 6
48Birch Tree Wallnone 3b 5
49Bridge Crack
-
none 4b 3
50Sentry Box
-
none 4b 1
51Yew Break
-
none 1a 1
52Neptune Arete
-
none 4a 2
53Trident Arete
-
none 3a 1
54Avalanche Route
-
none 3a 1
55Toad Arete
-
none 4c 1
56Sandy Wall
-
none 5b 1
57Girdle Traverse
-
none 6a * 

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