Up to 8m in height, soft under foot in places at the base and some fragile holds. Secluded and shaded, and hence slower to come into condition, but a change from the bigger places if you're in the area.
The Sandstone Volunteers Group cleared the crag in 2003 and it is now much more open.
Many climbs have bolts above but you will need a second static rope to ensure your belay karabiner extends over the edge of the crag to avoid damage from moving ropes. A carpet sample is crucial to clean your feet before climbing & thereby avoid further damage to the rock.
NO LEADING - soloing or toproping only, and if the latter then extend the belay over the crag edge - it saves your rope and the rock.
From Tunbridge Wells take the A264 towards E. Grinstead along the N side of Tun Wells common. 300m after the Spa Hotel turn R into Rusthall Road and after 150m, R again into Harmony Street (signpost Toad Rock). The road bends right and then left at a junction with Rusthall Park. The crag is in the wood gained by following the track heading south east from this junction for 100m.
Parking available on the road by Toad Rock further down Harmony Street. Please do not park in Rusthall Park.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
Southern Sandstone (2008)
|1||Waistline||none 5a *||1|
|2||Broken Crack||none 3a||1|
|3||The Chasm||none 3b||1|
|4||Tree Climb||none 2a||1|
|6||Yew Wall||none 5c *|
|7||Poltergeist||none 5c *||1|
|8||Yellowstone Wall||none 3b||4|
|9||yellowstone crack||none 4b||5|
|10||The Scoop||none 6a *||3|
|11||Possibility Wall||none 4b **||30|
|12||Impossibility||none 5b *||6|
|13||The Tarnished Victory||none 5c *||2|
|14||Trident left||none 1b||5|
|15||Trident Chimney||none 2b||5|
|17||Coal Cellar||none 2a||14|
|20||Conway's Variation||none 3b *||20|
|21||Conway's Buttress||none 3b *||30|
|22||Newman's Arête||none 4c **||2|
|23||Conway's Crack||none 4b **||63|
|24||Bramble Corner||none 4c ***||50|
|25||Knott||none 5c **||22|
|26||The Shield||none 6a ***||4|
|27||The Wall||none 5c ***||24|
|28||Centurion's Groove||none 4c **||61|
|29||Pseudonym||none 5c **||10|
|30||Broken Nose||none 5b **||21|
|31||Slab Chimney||none 3a||7|
|32||Slab Variant||none 4c ***||53|
|33||Time Waits for No One||none 6b *|
|34||Full Moon||none 5a *||11|
|35||Triangle Climb||none 2a||8|
|36||Triangle Arete||none 5b||5|
|37||Handle with Care||none 6a|
|38||Crossply||none 5b *||7|
|39||Gangway Wall||none 3c **||22|
|40||Square cut||none 5c *||1|
|41||Overhanging crack||none 4c||5|
|42||Birch Tree Wall||none 3b||2|
|43||Birch Tree Buttress||none 2a||3|
|44||Toad Wall||none 2b||3|
|45||Girdle Traverse||none 6a *|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|There are various wasps nests this season, be warned!|
alan1234 - 06/Jul/11
|lovely day on the 14th april.The start are alwayse slimy, that make the place so untertaining.
i love it.|
brixton climber - 15/May/07
|Short way from tunbridge wells station, good for perfecting sandstone technique, although a bit slimy early in the season/ easy to help beginnners.|
SLewis - 20/Apr/06
|May 2005 - Coming nicely into condition. Many repeats of routes not climbed for years!|
Graham Ad - 12/May/05
|The crag has been cleaned and is now very climbable..
More traffic is needed to remove the last of the slime
A>croft - 10/Jun/04