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View larger mapGrid Ref SJ 493755 (OS Landranger #117)

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These details were last updated on 16/Dec/2013

Helsby

Cheshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 285 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
A fine sandstone cliff overlooking the River Mersey and the motorway. It is often driven past at speed and scorned by uninformed climbers travelling to North Wales. One day they should take the time to have a look at the place since most will be pleasantly surprised by the compact and clean walls offering some superb routes on great rock.

In winter the rock does turn green and slimey but after a spell of dry weather it cleans up nicely.

It should be mentioned that this crag was very 'unfashionable' for many years and the grading system left unchallenged for decades. Many climbs are poorly protected and dubious rock is ubiquitous. Therefore the grades may well be inaccurate. Feedback on grades and qualitative ratings would be welcome.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.2mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
23 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
9 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
21 kph

8.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
22 kph

2.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
9 °C
22 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Cheshire & Merseyside Sandstone (2012), Western Grit (2009),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003), Sandstone Climbing in Cheshire and Merseyside (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 ----------- EAST BUTTRESS -----------  
 FAR-EAST BUTTRESS  
3Wrinkled SlabM 2
4Halfway LedgeD 1
5Far Eastern TraverseVD 2
6Cobweb CrackHVS 5b  
7Torsion CrackVS 5a 1
8Millwall F.C.HVS 5b  
9Jericho WallHVS 5c * 
10Philistine's ProwlHVS 5a  
11Wall and SlabVD 2
122001none 6c ** 
13Space Odysseynone 6b ** 
 UNDERTAKER'S BUTTRESS  
15Groove and SlabD 2
16Quarry Buttress DirectVS 5a 1
17Quarry Buttress SuperdirectE2 5c  
18Tyburn WallE3 6a  
19GallowsE2 5c **1
20Lynch Mob MentalityE3 6b  
21Corpse's WalkS 2
22Night of The Living Deadnone 5c *1
23Undertaker's ButtressS 4b **7
 THE NOSE  
25Stoic's CornerVD 1
26Upper LipHVS 5b 1
27Upper Lip DirectE3 5c  
28Napoleon ComplexE5 6a ** 
29The NoseVD *2
30Nose GullyVD 1
31CinderellaHVS 5b 1
32OmegaVS 5a *1
 ----------- CENTRAL BUTTRESS -----------  
 CENTRAL AREA AND MARSHALL'S TOWER  
35Marshall's ClimbHVS 4c ***2
36Marshall's Tower EliminateE1 5b *1
37Slanting ChimneyVD 5
38Coffin ButtressVS 5a 1
39Eliminate IIVS 5a 1
40Cemetery WallHS 3
41The CoffinHS 4b 1
42Tombstone WallHVS 5b 1
43Lookout ClimbHS 4b *1
44Zig Zag ClimbVD 6
45The ThingummyVS 5a 1
46Spider CrackE1 5b 1
47Green ChimneyS 4a 1
48Greenshieldnone 5c  
49The BeetlerE2 5b * 
50Strength Through JoyXS 6b * 
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS - MIDDLE TIER  
52Sculptor's ClimbHS 4b 4
53Chimney and TraverseS *5
54SuperdirectHS 4b 2
55Direct RouteS 4a 7
56Central ClimbVD *19
57Easy ButtressD 27
58The IllegitimateE3 5c ***8
59Carsten's AbortionE2 5b **10
60Brown's BastardE2 5b 3
61Downe's DoddleE2 5b *8
62Clockwork OrangeE3 5c ***5
63Technicolour YawnE5 6a **4
64The CorniceVD **50
65The Cornice IndirectS **20
66DeceptionHVS 5a *22
67Mossy SlabVD *23
68Gather No MossE3 6b 1
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS - UPPER TIER  
 GROOVED WALL  
71Grooved Wall Route 1 Direct FinishE1 5a  
72Grooved Wall Route 1VS 4b **2
73Grooved Wall Route 2VS 4b *1
74Grooved Wall Route 3E2 5b  
75Fat Man's CrackVD 1
 CLASHOOK SLAB AND LIMPET WALL  
77Clashooks SlabVD 1
78Limpet WallVS 4b **4
79Mussel WallVS 5a **2
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS - LOWER TIER - HONEYCOMB WALL  
81Little LightMS 4a 3
82Blue LightE2 6a *7
83In the PieE2 6a 1
84Pigeonhole WallHVS 4c ***43
85Pigeonhole AreteE1 5c *15
86Crack of DoomVD *38
87WhimperE2 5c *11
88Wafer WallE2 5b **20
89Z RouteVD *21
90Z Route DirectS 4a 14
91Oblique CrackVD 38
92Muffin CrackHVS 5b *18
93Crumpet CrackE3 6a ***17
94Hades CrackVS 4c *14
95Wild Oat WallHVS 5b 4
96Two Step CrackVD 33
97Honeycomb WallVS 4c *16
98Nameless WallVS 5a 7
99Nameless CrackS 4a 14
 ----------- WEST BUTTRESS -----------  
 CLASHOOK GULLY - WEST WALL  
102Celerity CrackHS 4b  
103West Wall ClimbD  
104West Wall MantelshelfS 4b *2
105The West WallE1 5c 1
106Un-namednone 6b  
 WEST BUTTRESS - UPPER TIER  
108Hemingway's WallE3 5c *3
109Late-nite GreenhalghE4 6a **1
110The Missing FontE3 5c *2
111Senile SaunterE1 5b **4
112West Wall ChimneyVD *18
113Windy CornerVD *13
114Windy Corner - The Nose FinishS 4b *9
115DioperaHVS 5a *8
116EroicaHVS 5a 3
117Eroticanone 6b  
118Coward of the CountyE4 6b * 
119SpookyE5 6a ** 
120Brandenburg WallE3 5c ***6
121Brandenburg Wall DirectE6 6c * 
122StingrayE4 6a *** 
123The ManglerE3 6a ***13
124Gorilla WallE3 5c **7
125Gorilla Wall DirectE4 5c *2
126Double TroubleE4 5c **1
127Sandynone 6b * 
128Evil Uncle Quentinnone 5c  
129Shoie McFeenone 5c  
130Overleaning wallE1 5a 4
131The NotchD ***71
132Tree wallE1 5b 3
133Arcographnone 5c  
134ArcoVS 4c *2
135Terrace WallD 7
136DelilahHVS 5b *1
137Why, Why, Why?none 6a  
138Betrayed by a WomenE3 5c 2
139Short Back and Sidesnone 5c 2
140Samson's WallE1 5b 4
141Greenteeth GrooveHS 4a  
142Black WallS 4b *7
143C.B. CrackVD **17
144C.B. WallVD 13
145The SquirmVD 8
146Spare MomentS 2
 WEST BUTTRESS - LOWER TIER  
148Cloister TraverseS 4a 13
149Chromium CrackE1 5c **30
150Golden PillarE1 5b **99
151The Overhanging CrackVS 4c **75
152AgagVS 4c **48
153The Mersey RunnelE2 5c * 
154Cadaver Eyesnone 6c * 
155Hope StreetE5 6a *** 
156Magical CharmE5 6a **4
 Climb nameGradex
157CFKE4 6a **10
158Morgue SlabE2 5b ***45
159Mogadon's Good for YouE3 5c *2
160NecrophiliacE5 6a *5
161Time RegainedE8 6c ***7
162BeatnikE6 6b ***18
163DesperationE5 6b *1
164240 Volt ShockerE6 6c *9
165Twin ScoopsE1 5c **63
166The GangwayVS 4b **45
167Grooved SlabVS 4a ***164
168The Anvil IntergraleE1 5b ***5
169The Brush OffE4 5c ***34
170The Brush Off DirectE6 6a **19
171It'd Be Alright If It Was ColdE5 6b **1
172Jim's ChimneyE2 5b 18
173Little by LittleS 4a *181
174Oyster Slab Super DirectHS 5a *28
175Oyster SlabS 4a  
176Oyster Slab DirectVS 4b *35
177Oyster Slab Route IIIVS 5b *18
178Trojan CrackS 4a 21
179Trojan NoseS 4a 8
180Waterloo WallE2 6a *1
181Fragile Wall DirectE3 6a 4
182Fragile Wall LeftE3 5c * 
183Fragile WallE3 5c **20
184DanielE2 5c **25
185Wood's ClimbHVS 5a ***132
186The ResidueE5 6a **2
187Party BluesE4 6b *2
188Liverpool Lady BoysE6 6c **5
189Greenteeth GullyM 58
190Hard Rock TraverseV0 5a ** 
191Twinkletoes TraverseV4 6a ** 
192SwingsVS 4c 9
193Greenteeth CrackHS 4b *49
194Dinnerplate CrackVS 4c ***110
195Ho Ho HoE3 6a 5
196Twin Caves CrackHS 4b **147
197PathfinderE3 6a *8
198Flake InnominateE2 5c *11
199Flake CrackHVS 5a ***295
200Flake WallE5 6a ***20
201Foolish FinishE4 5c *9
202Licentious JugE5 6a *9
203Black Hole AreteE5 6b **3
204Calcutta WallE4 5c **2
205Eliminate 1E1 5b ***126
206CinemascopeE4 6a ***8
207Easy ChimneyM 50
208The WendigoE3 5c **16
209End CrackS 4b 75
210The ParasolVS 5a 12
211The UmbrellaE2 5c *15
212The ParapluieE1 5b *7
213The WartE3 5c 7
214Angel's FaceE1 5b **12
215Ape's CrackHVS 5b 4
216Gabriel's Garter / Ape's AmbleVS 5a **1
 ----------- HELSBY BOULDERING -----------  
 CASHOOKS WALL  
219Western RollV2 5c  
220Right ShelfV2 5c ** 
 OVERHANG BUTTRESS  
222PillarV0 5b  
223Roof DirectV2 5c  
224Roof Right-handV2 5c  
 JAY'SBUTTRESS  
226Left AreteV0 4b 6
227Steep WallV0 4c  
228Thin CrackV0 4b *6
229Diagonal CrackV0- 4a 5
230Ledge RouteV0 5a  
231Another Ledge RouteV0 5a  
232The Nose (Jay's Buttress)V0 5a  
233The Nose (sit start)V1 5b *8
234Cave WallV0 5a  
235The PinchV0 4c 4
236The MantleVB *4
 SCOOP BUTTRESS  
238Left EdgeV0 4a 1
239The ScoopV0- 4a 2
240Arete and MantelV3 6a  
241Long PullV2 5c  
242Easy PullV1 5b  
243Flaky WallV0 5a 1
244Green WallVB *6
245Sandy WallV0 5a 2
246Black HoleV1 5a 2
247GrasperV2 5c  
 POCKET WALL  
249The Nose (Pocket Wall)V1 5b *** 
250The AreteV3 6a  
251Pocket WallV3 6a ***1
252Centre RouteV1 5b * 
253Right routeV0 5a  
254The StepV1 5a *6
255Green StepV1 5b 5
256Green WallV1 5a  
257JugsV0 5a **1
258Ho-HoV0 5a  
259Lew's TraverseV0 5b  
 BARREL BUTTRESS  
261Helter SkelterV2 5b  
262Roll Out the BarrelV3 5c **2
263Speckled HenV1 5b 2
264Ron Burgundy's MustacheV8 6c **1
265The GrooveV1 5a *7
266The BeakV0+ 5a 4
267The NicheV1 5a 5
268BitterV0 4c 6
269Crank ItV1 5a 7
270Harold's WallV3 6a 3
271Left OversV1 5a  
 LONG WALL  
273Left GrooveV0 4c 1
274Left WallV0 4c  
275Two EgyptainsV2 5b  
276PopeyeV2 5b * 
277Martin's EyesV2 5c  
278Central NoseV1 5a 1
279Hot FuzzV1 5a  
280Three Left HandsV2 5b **2
281Right NoseV2 5c * 
282OliverV3 6s **2
283ShuffleV0 5a 1
284Right GrooveV0- 4b 1
285Zig-Zag TraverseV1 5a * 
286Artful DodgerV4 6b ***1
287Atful DodgingV6 6b *** 
 CAVE BUTTRESS  
289The ArchV1 5b *3
290Green SlabV0 4c  
291ArchibaldV4 6b  
292The GrimaceV4 5c  
293High BrowV3 5c * 
294Stiff Upper LipV3 5c  
 TRAVERSE BUTTRESS  
296Problem 65V3 6b  
297Problen 66V2 6a 1
298Problem 67V1 5b 1
299Problem 68V1 5b 1
300Problem 69V1 5b 1
301Problem 70V0 5a 1
302Ramp EliminateV6 6b ** 
303Problem 71V0 5a 1
304Upper TraverseV1 5b *1
305Lower TraverseV4 6b * 
306Left PocketV1 5b  
307FlyV2 5c  
308Right PocketV0 5a  
   
   
311Central RibVD *5
312Gaz's Gapeing GirdleV2 1
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Access notes
Lies directly above the town of Helsby: park there and make an "exhausting" scramble up the hillside.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Are you a troll or a moron?
Alex Winter - 12/Jul/13

Get it bolted!!
m88ulv - 07/Jul/13

such a waisted crag, so much to be done here and no 1 to climb with... loads fo protection up the top for those workin routes or intending top ropes.. i actually like helsby although its quite green
phil_freeman - 19/Feb/10

flake crack was my second lead getting off the pillar at the bottom is hard but once done the route is fab allan
ashaw - 19/Jun/06

Agree with above comments, but as Alan Rouse said in his 1976 guide, top roping is acceptable here on the longer and harder routes because of 'the general lack of suitable protection and the occasionally unreliable nature of the rock'. However, he also said that when you get to know the place 'you can derive great pleasure from soloing'. So be careful but have fun!
Pekkie - 17/Jul/05

Yes, a really excellent place to climb but be aware that the rock can be quite brittle and at times, holds do break - I know. Good place to learn footwork.
Paul H - 13/Jun/05

The crag boasts some endless classics with all difficulties of climbing. Many people forget that there is a pretty good low level bouldering above the crag. They are no more than 2.5 metres tall but there are some really technical routes, there are enough to make a short film about (which is what we are doing!). Its also a great place to learn the basics of bouldering seeing as you aren't going to get hurt if you fall from any height. check it out.
Michael Gee - 03/Apr/04

Since the last guidebook, with more modern descriptions and E grades, there has been a resurgence of interest in the crag as a whole and in particular in leading. With careful consideration many of the routes can be adequately protected and can be of as good a quality as found on more popular crags
Mark Hounslea - 13/Feb/03

A fine crag to develop finger strength
alan edmonds - 11/Feb/03

What about Colin Kirkus
Andy Clare - 23/Jan/03

An absolutely fantastic place to climb, and really doesn\'t get the attention it deserves. Climbs are of all difficulties Severe-E6/7. I mean, look at the people that climbed there - Alan Rouse, Hugh Banner, Chris Bonington. Timelessly classic. A great place to build up confidence and very easily accessible
Jon Cooke - 17/Jul/02