Climbs 276
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

Ewan sizes up a solo of The Knife © Will Hunt

Crag features

Marvellous bouldering (if you have the head for it) on vertical faces up to 50ft (but down to 10ft too). Holds usually well-chalked but toprope recommended for longer ones. Do extend the belay if you use one to avoid eroding the rock.
Locals think it the best bouldering venue in the country. Walls face all aspects. The rock is usually of good quality and not given to large holds; climbing here breeds strong fingers! Routes are usually soloed or top roped. Although a resurgence in leading the routes has occurred in recent years. If you are going to lead remember that sandstone is soft and gear can blow, damaging holds and routes.
The quarry does get a little damp in the winter, though some areas remain unaffected and others dry quickly, allowing year-round climbing by the dedicated and addicted. Midges and mosquitoes can be distracting on humid, windless summer nights.
Grades go from 3a to 7a (English), with lots to play on in the 5a - 6b range. The grades here reflect those negotiated for the new definitive guide. V grades kind of stop when things get high and leading becomes a possibility. These grades are for in the main; Head Point Leads. If you are lucky to meet one of the locals whilst you are there who goes by the name of 'Buzz', you will have the benefit of ticking a BUZZ POINT ascent of your route, you will know what this when it happens.
Classics include; Hart's Arete, The Web, The Rack, The Knife, Dateline and Black Magic.
There is an almost never ending list of Eliminates and micro problems, with lots of 'you can't use that' or 'that's on the next route'. Hence some of the grades may feel a little over graded. (try it next time but without the massive hold off the previous route)
There are numerous traverses, from the easy (3a) to the improbable (6c) and bouldering in a similar range (up to 7a).
The quarry is owned by the water board which request that the railings at the top of the quarry are not used for belays. Occasional groups of scouts abseil down the Dateline wall to add local colour to the place.
An extensive programme of vegetation management by North West Water has recently allowed the sun to reach walls that were becoming dank and dark. North West Water wants to continue without vigilante action by climbers. Respect their wishes.
Some grades have been marked as XS this is simply because the are down right horrible and green and only recorded for historical reasons. If you want to climb these them some time and effort is needed to clean them before hand.
A small note on cleaning; covering damp / wet / dirty / slimy holds with copies amount of chalk does not clean them. In fact it produces a rather horrible paste that actually 'polishes' holds. Think of it like a rock Brasso. To clean them; use your beer towel (other types of towel will do)to dry off the hold and remove wet crud, then toothbrush *NOT* wire brush holds to finish. Chalk is for your hands.
Lady Jane Eliminate Bouldering Maps can be found at the links below. Please follow instructions that accompany the photo when submitting new problems.
Lady Jane Eliminate Map 1 Unicorn to Hart's Arete. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=203765

Some nice Beta video's http://vimeo.com/65447814

Approach notes

M62 junction 7, head S on the A569. Turn R after 0.7mi onto the A5080. After 400m a Sixth Form College is passed on the L and almost immediately some old green gateposts can be seen on the R. Go up the track between these (beware speed bumps) to parking at the top of the track.
Exit car park via pedestrian gate and walk downhill and rightwards until the green railings surrounding the quarry can be seen. Follow these left or right to enter the quarry at its lowest point. 5 min walk.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Return trip after a few years away. Two things shocked me: the whole place has tilted up by a couple of degrees. Leading the dateline no longer relieves tension. A crag clean up too far I fear.
steveriley - 16/Jun/15
still a cracking crag, needs more love and attention.And cleaning now the trees are gone. Ps has somebody chipped breakaway or has it always been like that? I can't remember its so long since I was on it.
hueco - 20/Apr/15
This is where I experienced rock climbing for the very first time some 33 years ago. For the sake of nostalgia I often pay it a visit when I pop over from Australia, my current home. I did this in April 2014 and can only say it was squalid. Garbage and broken glass everywhere and the bin at the car park by the observatory overflowing with bags of dog shit. The smell was overpowering. What a shame.
Karl Bromelow - 28/Apr/14
I live down the road from pex hill, and it's true you do sometimes get groups of kids drinking up there, but only if you're there quite late and on a friday-sunday, i've only climbed there once but i walk the dog up there and it's normally very quiet.
Drumguru1 - 24/Jan/13
Last but one visit I saw a Kestrel catch something in the bottom of the quarry and eat it on a small ledge near the top of Dateline. No-one else there as it was a rather damp evening, not entirely urban squalor!
harold walmsley - 20/Jul/12
Climb here all the time, it's a nice quiet place to go and climb. Needs a little bit of a clean up though down in the Quarry maybe one day we will get a little cleaning up session going on down there, with the people that use it and make it a nice clean place to going and climb for all of out fellow climbers :D who's up for it ??
_Robert_Watson_ - 15/Dec/11
Ignore the comments about people getting rocks thrown at them. This has never happened to me. Never had anything stolen from there either but keep an eye on the valuables just in case, or better still leave them at home. There's not that much litter about either, true that it's worse than most crags but the often mentioned fields of broken glass don't actually exist.
Will Hunt - 17/Jan/09
Yea it's Widnes not Liverpool. I live just down the road and would hate to think that I live in such an armpit. That said it may as well be, what with the local youths knocking about throwing rocks at the climbers. If you catch her on a good day then you can have a bomber day at Pex other wise your just gonna get stoned (and not in the good way.) An excelent place for honing finger strength and tech.
Quixos - 09/Dec/08
Just a note that Widnes is not in Liverpool (I am from the next town across) - but true there is little to do for the young people, still no excuse to be making a mess though! Scooperman - I'll be home in the summer months for some climbing - may see you around?
Krusty162002 - 04/Feb/08
Any climbers around pex hill, i'm 17, and a local of Cronton, wondering if you guys go regularly, as i'm looking to start learning how to climb properly. Mainly for pekkie, as i'd probably recognize you anyway.
scooperman - 19/Jan/08
I some times wonder about people, its in the middle of liverpool! what do you want the kids to stay away, for young kids growing up on estates and that, this is a paradise play ground. no i am not sicking up for them, as its angers me to thats they cant keep there emptys, but thats life, its in a city, people are way to used to the hills ect... so when coming to this crag they see littler and think "oh no" when you should be thinkin, "well i cant compare it to north wales, as its in liverpool" does that make sense....
phil_freeman - 14/Dec/07
Nice place to bolder, unfortunately the local kids seem to take great pleasure in going up to the edge of the quarry getting drunk and launching their empty's into the quarry, so now the vast majority of the quarry floor is covered in glass and litter. If you dont have a boldering mat i would advise against going here, as dropping off the wall onto the floor can result in glass going straight through your rock shoes. Again a real shame about this area, i dont think i'll be venturing here again until something is done about the vandels.
deltamatt71 - 10/Sep/07
Nice pic of staminade...but don't forget this was soled in 1989!! Anyone out there repeated it?
Parker550 - 01/Dec/06
Hi, I went climbing at Pex Hill for the first time in 10 years. There are still some great routes there but you need to beware. On arrival we met a climber that had just had is wallet stolen from his rucksack. It appears that a bloke and his very young daughter were sat at the bottom watching them climb. They think that he saw the wallet being zipped into a pocket on the rucksack and while the climber was climbing they had away with the wallet. There were also a couple of groups of mid-teenage lads hanging around. Throwing rocks and generally making a noise and making it difficult to concentrate on the climbing. Shame really.
spacedog21 - 12/Sep/06
Phil yer messer, telling stories there? Pex is a great place, great for homing talents and generating better finger strength, giveit a try...
Jamie - 18/Feb/06
I have been climbing for many years.Pex is a happy go lucky type of crag good for finger strength and technique good to camp for locals are willing to share there marijuana and cronton girls.So come and make a night of it and climb of the morning
Phill baker - 23/Jan/06
I added a few comments against some of the routes, myself and chris hunter were fairly active at pexy in the early 70's, i actually lent phil davidson my eb's to try a route when he turned up after school with a mate. we did loads of stuff and some of the naming of routes, i am the rob on the back wall, kev and rob about 2 thirds up. pex hill is definately one of the best little crags in the world. robbie mallinson
robbie mallinson - 21/Jan/06
omg never seen anything better, best bloody climbs for miles i have to agree THE DOGS BOLLOCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
nolo - 15/Jan/06
its for people who don't like heights and is home to hippies and glue sniffers
helen - 14/Nov/05
Fantastic training and so much better than an indoor wall on a summers evening. Not much there that is easy.
Richard Bradley - 03/Aug/05
Spent 30 years of my life climbing at Pex Hill - right on my doorstep. That's where the name Pekkie comes from! Tried to correct errors and provide historical context - see my comments on individual routes. This is a great crag - very good for technique and finger strength. Dries out quickly too. Does need regular cleaning and pruning back of brambles and gorse. Volunteers welcome!
Pekkie - 16/Jul/05
Totally fcukin awesome. Nuff said...
Original Party Boy - 17/Jun/05
Heaven is a hole in the ground. One of the best bouldering/soloing venues in the land. Awesome for your footwork, balance and finger strength. If you think your good at slabs then try Monoblock.....
andy farnell - 31/Mar/03
THE DOGS BOLLOCKS, best crag on earth all those who never climb here should be flogged
666DENVER666 - 10/Mar/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Traverses 
2The Grand TourV9 *** 
3Lady Jane MiddleV2 4
4Lady Jane HighV0 3
5Lady Jane LowV5 3
6Lady Jane ClassicV0 34
7Hart's ArÍte HighV3 ***11
8Hart's Arete Traversef6C 6a ***26
9The Grand HorizontalV9 ** 
10Pex Wall TraverseE3 6a *32
11Pex Wall LowV5 9
12Gaming Club traverseV2  
13Gaming Club LowV3  
14Memorial Wall traverseV4 11
15Vag Crap Traverse HighV4 1
16StampedeV9  
17Dateline Traverse ExtensionV4 1
18Dateline TraverseV3 8
19Pisa Wall HighV2 8
20Pisa Wall Traverse Middlef6A 5c ***169
21Pisa Wall LowV2 25
22Pisa Wall Lower Right / PitBull FinishV4 1
 Lady Jane Wall 
24Too Bold for Steve Bootf5 5b 95
25Set SquareVS 4c 116
26Set Square Direct
-
V2 *49
27Tequila Sunrisef5+ 5c *148
28Rubber WillieV6  
29Harvey Wallbangerf6A 5c *147
30Black Russianf6B 6a 31
31Lew's Leapf5 5b **137
32Lew's Leap DirectV2 28
33Finger-Ripperf7A 6b 4
34Bermuda Trianglef6B 6a **57
35Bermuda Triangle DirectV6 2
36Cosine Alternativef6B 6b 8
37Breakawayf7B+ 6c *5
38Catalepsyf7A+ 6c ***13
39Monoblockf7C+ 7a ***5
40Bernief7A 6b **5
41Terminationf7A+ 6c 3
42Philharmonicf6B 6b 9
43Algripperf5+ 5c **43
44Jurassic Porkf7A 6b 4
45Lady JaneE1 5c **118
46CrossbowE1 5c 17
47Lady Jane Direct StartE1 5c 53
48SidestepE1 5c *18
49Twin Scoops DirectE1 6a *27
50Twin ScoopsHVS 4c **104
51Twin Scoops Right-handE2 5c 8
52Creeping JesusE1 5b **72
53Creeping Jesus DirectV2 5
54Kitt's WallE5 6b **1
55The Black Pimp from MarseillesE6 6b *2
56UnicornE3 5b **44
57Cave Route Right-handE6 6b 3
58LadytronE4 5c **10
59Cardiac AreteE4 6b **5
60Hart's AreteE4 6b **18
61Zigger ZaggerE2 5b **15
62Big GreenieE3 5c *7
63The HulkE2 5c 14
64Crack and UpE1 5b **135
65Corner and OverhangE2 5b *26
66McArthur ParkE3 5b *21
67Eliminate OneE2 5b 38
68The AbortE1 5a *100
69Eliminate TwoE2 5b 29
70One StepE1 5a *95
71Eliminate ThreeE3 5c 24
72The WebE1 5b **202
 Lady Jane Eliminate Bouldering 
74Problem 1VB 2
75Problem 2V3  
76The MantleV3  
77Problem 4VB 2
78Problem 5V1 1
79Problem 5.5V4  
80The DenominatorV7  
81Problem 6V1 1
82Problem 7V1 1
83Problem 8V7  
84Problem 9V0+ 1
85Problem 10V0- 3
86Problem 11V4  
87Problem 12V0  
88Problem 13V3  
89Problem 14V9  
90Hart's AreteV4 11
91Hart's Arete LaybackV5 4
92Hart's Arete 1 handedV7 ***2
93Problem 15V6  
94Problem 16V0+ 1
95Problem 17V3  
96Problem 18V2  
97Problem 19V1  
98Joe's Direct StartV8  
 Pex Wall 
100Pex WallE4 6a  
101Eliminate FourE3 5c 23
102The WitchE2 5b **46
103Four JaysE2 5b 25
104The WizardE2 5b **47
105Green MonsterE4 6a 19
106AlchemyE4 6a 19
107WarlockE3 5c *31
108WarcryE5 6b 9
109WarmongerE5 6b 4
110Cobweb CrackE3 5c *119
111SpidermanE5 6b 1
112WarlordE4 6a *11
113The PacifistE5 6b * 
114InnocentE4 6a * 
115PeelerXS 5b  
116VibratorXS 5b  
117TridentXS 5a  
118Right CornerXS 4a  
 Philander Wall 
120PhilandererXS 4b  
121Massey StreetXS 5b  
122Wod's SlotXS 5c  
123Key of the DoorXS 4b  
 Gaming Club Wall 
125Gaming ClubE2 5a *3
126SandinistaV3 1
127Fallout ZoneV3 1
128Pure ManiaV3 1
129Contra
-
V3  
130Casino ClubV0 18
131The Talisman
-
V0 3
132A RouteV0- 54
133B RouteVB 13
134BrambleS 4c 24
135Thin Crack (5c)
-
V2 5
136RambleV0 8
137Short CrackS 4b 78
138Heather Wallf5 5b *39
139Bon Amif4 5a 83
140Bon Gre Malgre
-
V2 26
141Master RaceE5 6b 1
142The RackE1 5a **90
 Torture Wall 
144Pipe DownE3 5c  
145ThumbscrewV1 *1
146Iron MaidenV2 ** 
147GarotteV1 *3
148Bon BonV0 23
149GazeboV0  
150Ledge RouteVB 16
 Memorial Wall 
152Sweeney Aretef4 5a **54
153RobberyV2 29
154Headstonef6B 6a 14
155CenotaphV0 *8
156Memorial WallHS 4b 113
157Tombstone
-
V0 46
158Memorial CornerHS 4b 90
 Vag Crap Wall 
160Hunter's Walkf5+ 5c *36
161St Paulf5+ 5c 14
162WeaselE2 5c **5
163FerretE1 5a *1
164Swinging GulchV0 6
165StoolieV0+  
166JudderV1 1
167Four MostV1 1
168Ok, Blue EyesV0+ 1
169Sabre Cut
-
HS 4c 10
170Pink PantherV0  
171HookeyE2 5b  
172Pink WallE3 6a  
 Pink Wall Area 
174Pink Corner
-
V0- 6
175BillE1 5a 1
176BenE2 5c 1
177BelcherE3 6a  
178SnookerVB 4
179Coffin CrackVB 7
180Coffin WallVB 6
181Borehole Slab, Left HandVB 5
182JayVB 4
183Borehole Slab, Right HandVB 5
184NuttyVB 5
185Diagonal CrackVB 4
186Low OverhangVB 5
187Thin Crack (3a)
-
VB 3
188Triangular LedgeVB 3
189Overlap
-
VB 4
190Shallow CornerVB 3
191ScroogeVB 7
 Short Wall 
193BlobVB 37
194CobVB 36
195Short WallVB 35
196Hot AchesV2 2
197Marble EyesV0 13
 Knife Wall 
199The KnifeE4 6a ***68
200Catemytes CrackE5 6b *1
201Main WallE5 6b ** 
202StaminadeE6 6b ***1
203Lemonadenone 6b  
204Pernod and Blacknone 6b  
205Rum and Cocainenone 6b 1
 Dateline Wall 
207One of These Days Direct StartE3 5c *1
208One of These DaysE3 5c **8
209One of These Days Direct FinishE4 6a **1
210The Famous Alto Sax Breaknone 6c * 
211Padarn DanceE5 6b * 
212DatelineE2 5c ***89
213SinbadE6 6b ** 
214DepressionE6 6b **1
215Exit On AirE7 6b *** 
216Black MagicE5 6b ***21
217Black Magic DirectE6 6c * 
218Black Magic Direct FinishE6 6c * 
219Acid TestE5 6b **4
220Parker's MoodE6 6b * 
221EuphoriaE6 6b  
222Never Mind the AcidE4 5c 4
223TreadmillE3 5c  
 Pisa Wall 
225The Widowf5 5b 12
226JotaV5  
227Polar Bearf6C 6b *2
228Time Passagef6B 6b *4
229Time Passage Direct StartV6  
230Time Passage Direct FinishV6  
231Cyclopsf5 5b 22
232Two EyesVS 4c **85
233Corneaf5+ 5c **41
234Willy Simm's Silly Whimf7A 6b *12
235Retinaf5 5b *66
236Oak Tree WallV5  
237NamelessVS 4c *112
238IrisV0 7
239EliminateHS 4b *112
240Goliathf5+ 5c *44
241CataractV5 1
242Square FourVS 4b *182
243Greetingf5 5b *71
244Handshakef5 5b *175
245Pisa WallS 4a **304
246Warm UpV1 69
247Straight CrackS 4a **317
248Eliminate Wallf5+ 5c *91
249Mankey Roadf5+ 5c **186
250True GripV2 21
251Monkey Gripf5 5b *167
252Green Streakf5 5b *64
253Fingersf5+ 5c 53
254Bushy Talef5 5b *70
255One Movef5+ 5c *54
256Thumb Screwf6A 6a 25
257Commandof6A 6a 45
258Gorillaf5+ 5c 102
259Rock OverV0 23
 Pisa Wall Eliminate Bouldering 
261The 7ft DynoV8+ **5
262Pex Dyno
-
V7 4
263VitaliteV6 **6
264Vitalite LighterV7 *1
265Silly BoyV3 19
266Stretch
-
V4 8
267The Fat NeckV1 17
268Big Eric
-
V6 3
269Andy Who?
-
V7 2
270Punks at PexV7 2
271Silly Boy DirectV5 5
272Red FlashV5 6
273Big Nick
-
V6 2
274The South West Overhang
-
V8 2
275South West Overhang Sit Start
-
V9  
276Trad Sit DownV2 6
277North West Overhang
-
V8 1
278North West Overhang Sit Start
-
V10  
279Red Al
-
V3 11
280Blue Jim
-
V2 7
281Twister
-
V3 7
282Get Better
-
V4 4
283Bog Standard
-
V3 2
284Poor Leno
-
V3 6
285Dimples TraverseV4 15
286Pockets TraverseV3 3
287Yer Basic
-
V2 7
2881066
-
V1 6
289Battle of Hastings
-
V3 5
290King Kenny
-
V6  
 Problems need more info. 

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