Pex Hill Quarry

Climbs 276 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Marvellous bouldering (if you have the head for it) on vertical faces up to 50ft (but down to 10ft too). Holds usually well-chalked but toprope recommended for longer ones. Do extend the belay if you use one to avoid eroding the rock.

Locals think it the best bouldering venue in the country. Walls face all aspects. The rock is usually of good quality and not given to large holds; climbing here breeds strong fingers! Routes are usually soloed or top roped. Although a resurgence in leading the routes has occurred in recent years. If you are going to lead remember that sandstone is soft and gear can blow, damaging holds and routes.

The quarry does get a little damp in the winter, though some areas remain unaffected and others dry quickly, allowing year-round climbing by the dedicated and addicted. Midges and mosquitoes can be distracting on humid, windless summer nights.

Grades go from 3a to 7a (English), with lots to play on in the 5a - 6b range. The grades here reflect those negotiated for the new definitive guide. V grades kind of stop when things get high and leading becomes a possibility. These grades are for in the main; Head Point Leads. If you are lucky to meet one of the locals whilst you are there who goes by the name of 'Buzz', you will have the benefit of ticking a BUZZ POINT ascent of your route, you will know what this when it happens.

Classics include; Hart's Arete, The Web, The Rack, The Knife, Dateline and Black Magic.

There is an almost never ending list of Eliminates and micro problems, with lots of 'you can't use that' or 'that's on the next route'. Hence some of the grades may feel a little over graded. (try it next time but without the massive hold off the previous route)

There are numerous traverses, from the easy (3a) to the improbable (6c) and bouldering in a similar range (up to 7a).

The quarry is owned by the water board which request that the railings at the top of the quarry are not used for belays. Occasional groups of scouts abseil down the Dateline wall to add local colour to the place.

An extensive programme of vegetation management by North West Water has recently allowed the sun to reach walls that were becoming dank and dark. North West Water wants to continue without vigilante action by climbers. Respect their wishes.

Some grades have been marked as XS this is simply because the are down right horrible and green and only recorded for historical reasons. If you want to climb these them some time and effort is needed to clean them before hand.

A small note on cleaning; covering damp / wet / dirty / slimy holds with copies amount of chalk does not clean them. In fact it produces a rather horrible paste that actually 'polishes' holds. Think of it like a rock Brasso. To clean them; use your beer towel (other types of towel will do)to dry off the hold and remove wet crud, then toothbrush *NOT* wire brush holds to finish. Chalk is for your hands.

Lady Jane Eliminate Bouldering Maps can be found at the links below. Please follow instructions that accompany the photo when submitting new problems.

Lady Jane Eliminate Map 1 Unicorn to Hart's Arete. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=203765

Some nice Beta video's http://vimeo.com/65447814

Access notes
M62 junction 7, head S on the A569. Turn R after 0.7mi onto the A5080. After 400m a Sixth Form College is passed on the L and almost immediately some old green gateposts can be seen on the R. Go up the track between these (beware speed bumps) to parking at the top of the track.

Exit car park via pedestrian gate and walk downhill and rightwards until the green railings surrounding the quarry can be seen. Follow these left or right to enter the quarry at its lowest point. 5 min walk.

Guidebooks
Cheshire & Merseyside Sandstone (2012), Western Grit (2009),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003), Sandstone Climbing in Cheshire and Merseyside (1998), Pex Hill Topo Guide (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 TRAVERSES  
2The Grand TourV9 (6c) *** 
3Lady Jane MiddleV2 (5c) 3
4Lady Jane HighV0 (5b) 2
5Lady Jane LowV5 (6b) 3
6Lady Jane ClassicV0 (5a) 20
7Hart's Arête HighV3 (6a) ***10
8Hart's Arete TraverseV5 6a ***18
9The Grand HorizontalV9 (6c) ** 
10Pex Wall TraverseE3 6a *25
11Pex Wall LowV5 (6b) 4
12Gaming Club traverseV2 (5c)  
13Gaming Club LowV3 (6a)  
14Memorial Wall traverseV4 (5c) 9
15Vag Crap Traverse HighV4 (6a) 1
16StampedeV9 (6c)  
17Dateline Traverse ExtensionV4 (6a) 1
18Dateline TraverseV3 (6a) 3
19Pisa Wall HighV2 (5c) 2
20Pisa Wall Traverse MiddleV3 5c ***131
21Pisa Wall LowV2 (5c) 16
22Pisa Wall Lower Right / PitBull FinishV4 (6b) 1
 LADY JANE WALL  
24Too Bold for Steve BootV1 5b 78
25Set SquareVS 4c 103
26Set Square DirectV2 (5c) *27
27Tequila SunriseV2 5c *111
28Rubber WillieV6 (6b)  
29Harvey WallbangerV3 5c *118
30Black RussianV4 6a 28
31Lew's LeapV1 5b **118
32Lew's Leap DirectV2 (6a) 24
33Finger-RipperV6 6b 6
34Bermuda TriangleV4 6a **43
35Bermuda Triangle DirectV6 (6b) 2
36Cosine AlternativeV4 6b 9
37BreakawayV8+ 6c *6
38CatalepsyV7 6c ***13
39MonoblockV10 7a ***5
40BernieV6 6b **5
41TerminationV7 6c 3
42PhilharmonicV4 6b 9
43AlgripperV2 5c **34
44Jurassic PorkV6 6b 3
45Lady JaneE1 5c **100
46CrossbowE1 5c 13
47Lady Jane Direct StartE1 5c 38
48SidestepE1 5c *18
49Twin Scoops DirectE1 6a *25
50Twin ScoopsHVS 4c **96
51Twin Scoops Right-handE2 5c 7
52Creeping JesusE1 5b **60
53Creeping Jesus DirectV2 5c 4
54Kitt's WallE5 6b **1
55The Black Pimp from MarseillesE6 6b *2
56UnicornE3 5b **35
57Cave Route Right-handE6 6b 3
58LadytronE4 5c **10
59Cardiac AreteE4 6b **5
60Hart's AreteE4 6b **19
61Zigger ZaggerE2 5b **13
62Big GreenieE3 5c *7
63The HulkE2 5c 12
64Crack and UpE1 5b **113
65Corner and OverhangE2 5b *24
66McArthur ParkE3 5b *18
67Eliminate OneE2 5b 36
68The AbortE1 5a *79
69Eliminate TwoE2 5b 24
70One StepE1 5a *75
71Eliminate ThreeE3 5c 19
72The WebE1 5b **159
 LADY JANE ELIMINATE BOULDERING  
74Problem 1VB (4b) 2
75Problem 2V3 (6a)  
76The MantleV3 (6a)  
77Problem 4VB (4c) 2
78Problem 5V1 (5c) 1
79Problem 5.5V4 (6a-6b  
80The DenominatorV7 (6b)  
81Problem 6V1 (5c) 1
82Problem 7V1 (5c) 1
83Problem 8V7 (6b)  
84Problem 9V0+ (5b) 1
85Problem 10V0- (5a) 2
86Problem 11V4 (6a-6b  
87Problem 12V0 (5b)  
88Problem 13V3 (6a)  
89Problem 14V9 (6c)  
90Hart's AreteV4 (6a) 3
91Hart's Arete LaybackV5 (6b)  
92Hart's Arete 1 handedV7 6b ***2
93Problem 15V6 (6b)  
94Problem 16V0+ (5b) 1
95Problem 17V3 (6a)  
96Problem 18V2 (5c)  
97Problem 19V1 (5c)  
98Joe's Direct StartV8 (6c)  
 PEX WALL  
100Pex WallE4 6a  
101Eliminate FourE3 5c 18
102The WitchE2 5b **28
103Four JaysE2 5b 20
104The WizardE2 5b **34
105Green MonsterE4 6a 16
106AlchemyE4 6a 13
107WarlockE3 5c *24
108WarcryE5 6b 8
109WarmongerE5 6b 4
110Cobweb CrackE3 5c *89
111SpidermanE5 6b 1
112WarlordE4 6a *8
113The PacifistE5 6b * 
114InnocentE4 6a * 
115PeelerXS 5b  
116VibratorXS 5b  
117TridentXS 5a  
118Right CornerXS 4a  
 PHILANDER WALL  
120PhilandererXS 4b  
121Massey StreetXS 5b  
122Wod's SlotXS 5c  
123Key of the DoorXS 4b  
 GAMING CLUB WALL  
125Gaming ClubE2 5a *3
126SandinistaV3 6a 1
127Fallout ZoneV3 6a 1
128Pure ManiaV3 6a 1
129ContraV3 6a  
130Casino ClubV0 5a 17
131The TalismanV0 4c 3
132A RouteV0- 3a 49
133B RouteVB 3a 11
134BrambleS 4c 21
135Thin Crack (5c)V2 5c 4
136RambleV0 4c 6
137Short CrackS 4b 72
138Heather WallV1 5b *36
139Bon AmiV0 5a 72
140Bon Gre MalgreV2 5b 23
141Master RaceE5 6b 1
142The RackE1 5a **77
 TORTURE WALL  
144Pipe DownE3 5c  
145ThumbscrewV1 5b *1
146Iron MaidenV2 5c ** 
147GarotteV1 5b *3
148Bon BonV0 4a 21
149GazeboV0 5a  
150Ledge RouteVB 3a 16
 MEMORIAL WALL  
152Sweeney AreteV0 5a **53
153RobberyV2 5c 22
154HeadstoneV4 6a 13
155CenotaphV0 5a *6
156Memorial WallHS 4b 102
157TombstoneV0 5a 41
158Memorial CornerHS 4b 80
 VAG CRAP WALL  
160Hunter's WalkV2 5c *25
161St PaulV2 5c 12
162WeaselE2 5c **3
163FerretE1 5a *1
164Swinging GulchV0 4b 5
165StoolieV0+ 4c  
166JudderV1 4c 1
167Four MostV1 4c  
168Ok, Blue EyesV0+ 4c 1
169Sabre CutHS 4c 8
170Pink PantherV0 5a  
171HookeyE2 5b  
172Pink WallE3 6a  
 PINK WALL AREA  
174Pink CornerV0- 4c 5
175BillE1 5a  
176BenE2 5c  
177BelcherE3 6a  
178SnookerVB 3a 3
179Coffin CrackVB 3b 4
180Coffin WallVB 3b 3
181Borehole Slab, Left HandVB 3a 3
182JayVB 3a 3
183Borehole Slab, Right HandVB 3a 3
184NuttyVB 3a 3
185Diagonal CrackVB 3a 3
186Low OverhangVB 3b 3
187Thin Crack (3a)VB 3a 1
188Triangular LedgeVB 3a 2
189OverlapVB 3c 2
190Shallow CornerVB 3a 2
191ScroogeVB 3c 4
 SHORT WALL  
193BlobVB 3c 32
194CobVB 4a 31
195Short WallVB 4b 28
196Hot AchesV2 5c  
197Marble EyesV0 5a 11
 KNIFE WALL  
199The KnifeE4 6a ***47
200Catemytes CrackE5 6b *1
201Main WallE5 6b ** 
202StaminadeE6 6b ***2
203Lemonadenone 6b  
204Pernod and Blacknone 6b  
205Rum and Cocainenone 6b 1
 DATELINE WALL  
207One of These Days Direct StartE3 5c *1
208One of These DaysE3 5c **6
209One of These Days Direct FinishE4 6a ** 
210The Famous Alto Sax Breaknone 6c * 
211Padarn DanceE5 6b * 
212DatelineE2 5c ***67
213SinbadE6 6b ** 
214DepressionE6 6b **1
215Exit On AirE7 6b *** 
216Black MagicE5 6b ***20
217Black Magic DirectE6 6c * 
218Black Magic Direct FinishE6 6c * 
219Acid TestE5 6b **4
220Parker's MoodE6 6b * 
221EuphoriaE6 6b  
222Never Mind the AcidE4 5c 4
223TreadmillE3 5c  
 PISA WALL  
225The WidowV1 5b 10
226JotaV5 (6a)  
227Polar BearV5 6b *2
228Time PassageV4 6b *4
229Time Passage Direct StartV6 6b  
230Time Passage Direct FinishV6 6c  
231CyclopsV1 5b 18
232Two EyesVS 4c **68
233CorneaV2 5c **34
234Willy Simm's Silly WhimV6 6b *11
235RetinaV1 5b *61
236Oak Tree WallV5 6a  
237NamelessVS 4c *102
238IrisV0 4c 5
239EliminateHS 4b *100
240GoliathV2 5c *41
241CataractV5 6b  
242Square FourVS 4b *161
243GreetingV1 5b *63
244HandshakeV1 5b *154
245Pisa WallS 4a **269
246Warm UpV1 5b 51
247Straight CrackS 4a **283
248Eliminate WallV2 5c *76
249Mankey RoadV2 5c **164
250True GripV2 5c 16
251Monkey GripV1 5b *139
252Green StreakV1 5b *53
253FingersV2 5c 42
254Bushy TaleV1 5b *58
255One MoveV2 5c *46
256Thumb ScrewV3 6a 19
257CommandoV3 6a 37
258GorillaV2 5c 92
259Rock OverV0 4c 12
 PISA WALL ELIMINATE BOULDERING  
261The 7ft DynoV8+ **5
262Pex DynoV7 2
263VitaliteV6 **4
264Vitalite LighterV7 *1
265Silly BoyV3 11
266StretchV4 3
267The Fat NeckV1 11
268Big EricV6 2
269Andy Who?V7 2
270Punks at PexV7 1
271Silly Boy DirectV5 2
272Red FlashV5 4
273Big NickV6 1
274The South West OverhangV8 2
275South West Overhang Sit StartV9  
276Trad Sit DownV2 6
277North West OverhangV8 1
278North West Overhang Sit StartV10  
279Red AlV3 8
280Blue JimV2 6
281TwisterV3 5
282Get BetterV4 3
283Bog StandardV3 2
284Poor LenoV3 6
285Dimples TraverseV4 6a 7
286Pockets TraverseV3 6a 2
287Yer BasicV2 6
2881066V1 5
289Battle of HastingsV3 4
290King KennyV6  
 PROBLEMS NEED MORE INFO.  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
This is where I experienced rock climbing for the very first time some 33 years ago. For the sake of nostalgia I often pay it a visit when I pop over from Australia, my current home. I did this in April 2014 and can only say it was squalid. Garbage and broken glass everywhere and the bin at the car park by the observatory overflowing with bags of dog shit. The smell was overpowering. What a shame.
Karl Bromelow - 28/Apr/14
I live down the road from pex hill, and it's true you do sometimes get groups of kids drinking up there, but only if you're there quite late and on a friday-sunday, i've only climbed there once but i walk the dog up there and it's normally very quiet.
Drumguru1 - 24/Jan/13
Last but one visit I saw a Kestrel catch something in the bottom of the quarry and eat it on a small ledge near the top of Dateline. No-one else there as it was a rather damp evening, not entirely urban squalor!
harold walmsley - 20/Jul/12
Climb here all the time, it's a nice quiet place to go and climb. Needs a little bit of a clean up though down in the Quarry maybe one day we will get a little cleaning up session going on down there, with the people that use it and make it a nice clean place to going and climb for all of out fellow climbers :D who's up for it ??
_Robert_Watson_ - 15/Dec/11
Ignore the comments about people getting rocks thrown at them. This has never happened to me. Never had anything stolen from there either but keep an eye on the valuables just in case, or better still leave them at home. There's not that much litter about either, true that it's worse than most crags but the often mentioned fields of broken glass don't actually exist.
Will Hunt - 17/Jan/09
Yea it's Widnes not Liverpool. I live just down the road and would hate to think that I live in such an armpit. That said it may as well be, what with the local youths knocking about throwing rocks at the climbers. If you catch her on a good day then you can have a bomber day at Pex other wise your just gonna get stoned (and not in the good way.) An excelent place for honing finger strength and tech.
Quixos - 09/Dec/08
Just a note that Widnes is not in Liverpool (I am from the next town across) - but true there is little to do for the young people, still no excuse to be making a mess though! Scooperman - I'll be home in the summer months for some climbing - may see you around?
Krusty162002 - 04/Feb/08
Any climbers around pex hill, i'm 17, and a local of Cronton, wondering if you guys go regularly, as i'm looking to start learning how to climb properly. Mainly for pekkie, as i'd probably recognize you anyway.
scooperman - 19/Jan/08
I some times wonder about people, its in the middle of liverpool! what do you want the kids to stay away, for young kids growing up on estates and that, this is a paradise play ground. no i am not sicking up for them, as its angers me to thats they cant keep there emptys, but thats life, its in a city, people are way to used to the hills ect... so when coming to this crag they see littler and think "oh no" when you should be thinkin, "well i cant compare it to north wales, as its in liverpool" does that make sense....
phil_freeman - 14/Dec/07
Nice place to bolder, unfortunately the local kids seem to take great pleasure in going up to the edge of the quarry getting drunk and launching their empty's into the quarry, so now the vast majority of the quarry floor is covered in glass and litter. If you dont have a boldering mat i would advise against going here, as dropping off the wall onto the floor can result in glass going straight through your rock shoes. Again a real shame about this area, i dont think i'll be venturing here again until something is done about the vandels.
deltamatt71 - 10/Sep/07
Nice pic of staminade...but don't forget this was soled in 1989!! Anyone out there repeated it?
Parker550 - 01/Dec/06
Hi, I went climbing at Pex Hill for the first time in 10 years. There are still some great routes there but you need to beware. On arrival we met a climber that had just had is wallet stolen from his rucksack. It appears that a bloke and his very young daughter were sat at the bottom watching them climb. They think that he saw the wallet being zipped into a pocket on the rucksack and while the climber was climbing they had away with the wallet. There were also a couple of groups of mid-teenage lads hanging around. Throwing rocks and generally making a noise and making it difficult to concentrate on the climbing. Shame really.
spacedog21 - 12/Sep/06
Phil yer messer, telling stories there? Pex is a great place, great for homing talents and generating better finger strength, giveit a try...
Jamie - 18/Feb/06
I have been climbing for many years.Pex is a happy go lucky type of crag good for finger strength and technique good to camp for locals are willing to share there marijuana and cronton girls.So come and make a night of it and climb of the morning
Phill baker - 23/Jan/06
I added a few comments against some of the routes, myself and chris hunter were fairly active at pexy in the early 70's, i actually lent phil davidson my eb's to try a route when he turned up after school with a mate. we did loads of stuff and some of the naming of routes, i am the rob on the back wall, kev and rob about 2 thirds up. pex hill is definately one of the best little crags in the world. robbie mallinson
robbie mallinson - 21/Jan/06
omg never seen anything better, best bloody climbs for miles i have to agree THE DOGS BOLLOCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
nolo - 15/Jan/06
its for people who don't like heights and is home to hippies and glue sniffers
helen - 14/Nov/05
Fantastic training and so much better than an indoor wall on a summers evening. Not much there that is easy.
Richard Bradley - 03/Aug/05
Spent 30 years of my life climbing at Pex Hill - right on my doorstep. That's where the name Pekkie comes from! Tried to correct errors and provide historical context - see my comments on individual routes. This is a great crag - very good for technique and finger strength. Dries out quickly too. Does need regular cleaning and pruning back of brambles and gorse. Volunteers welcome!
Pekkie - 16/Jul/05
Totally fcukin awesome. Nuff said...
Original Party Boy - 17/Jun/05
Heaven is a hole in the ground. One of the best bouldering/soloing venues in the land. Awesome for your footwork, balance and finger strength. If you think your good at slabs then try Monoblock.....
andy farnell - 31/Mar/03
THE DOGS BOLLOCKS, best crag on earth all those who never climb here should be flogged
666DENVER666 - 10/Mar/03
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 22/Jun/2013

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