Pex Hill Quarry

Climbs 276 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Marvellous bouldering (if you have the head for it) on vertical faces up to 50ft (but down to 10ft too). Holds usually well-chalked but toprope recommended for longer ones. Do extend the belay if you use one to avoid eroding the rock.

Locals think it the best bouldering venue in the country. Walls face all aspects. The rock is usually of good quality and not given to large holds; climbing here breeds strong fingers! Routes are usually soloed or top roped. Although a resurgence in leading the routes has occurred in recent years. If you are going to lead remember that sandstone is soft and gear can blow, damaging holds and routes.

The quarry does get a little damp in the winter, though some areas remain unaffected and others dry quickly, allowing year-round climbing by the dedicated and addicted. Midges and mosquitoes can be distracting on humid, windless summer nights.

Grades go from 3a to 7a (English), with lots to play on in the 5a - 6b range. The grades here reflect those negotiated for the new definitive guide. V grades kind of stop when things get high and leading becomes a possibility. These grades are for in the main; Head Point Leads. If you are lucky to meet one of the locals whilst you are there who goes by the name of 'Buzz', you will have the benefit of ticking a BUZZ POINT ascent of your route, you will know what this when it happens.

Classics include; Hart's Arete, The Web, The Rack, The Knife, Dateline and Black Magic.

There is an almost never ending list of Eliminates and micro problems, with lots of 'you can't use that' or 'that's on the next route'. Hence some of the grades may feel a little over graded. (try it next time but without the massive hold off the previous route)

There are numerous traverses, from the easy (3a) to the improbable (6c) and bouldering in a similar range (up to 7a).

The quarry is owned by the water board which request that the railings at the top of the quarry are not used for belays. Occasional groups of scouts abseil down the Dateline wall to add local colour to the place.

An extensive programme of vegetation management by North West Water has recently allowed the sun to reach walls that were becoming dank and dark. North West Water wants to continue without vigilante action by climbers. Respect their wishes.

Some grades have been marked as XS this is simply because the are down right horrible and green and only recorded for historical reasons. If you want to climb these them some time and effort is needed to clean them before hand.

A small note on cleaning; covering damp / wet / dirty / slimy holds with copies amount of chalk does not clean them. In fact it produces a rather horrible paste that actually 'polishes' holds. Think of it like a rock Brasso. To clean them; use your beer towel (other types of towel will do)to dry off the hold and remove wet crud, then toothbrush *NOT* wire brush holds to finish. Chalk is for your hands.

Lady Jane Eliminate Bouldering Maps can be found at the links below. Please follow instructions that accompany the photo when submitting new problems.

Lady Jane Eliminate Map 1 Unicorn to Hart's Arete. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=203765

Some nice Beta video's http://vimeo.com/65447814

Access notes
M62 junction 7, head S on the A569. Turn R after 0.7mi onto the A5080. After 400m a Sixth Form College is passed on the L and almost immediately some old green gateposts can be seen on the R. Go up the track between these (beware speed bumps) to parking at the top of the track.

Exit car park via pedestrian gate and walk downhill and rightwards until the green railings surrounding the quarry can be seen. Follow these left or right to enter the quarry at its lowest point. 5 min walk.

Guidebooks
Cheshire & Merseyside Sandstone (2012), Western Grit (2009),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003), Sandstone Climbing in Cheshire and Merseyside (1998), Pex Hill Topo Guide (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 TRAVERSES 
2The Grand TourV9 (6c) ***
3Lady Jane MiddleV2 (5c)
4Lady Jane HighV0 (5b)
5Lady Jane LowV5 (6b)
6Lady Jane ClassicV0 (5a)
7Hart's Arête HighV3 (6a) ***
8Hart's Arete TraverseV5 (6b) ***
9The Grand HorizontalV9 (6c) **
10Pex Wall TraverseV2 (5c) *
11Pex Wall LowV5 (6b)
12Gaming Club traverseV2 (5c)
13Gaming Club LowV3 (6a)
14Memorial Wall traverseV4 (5c)
15Vag Crap Traverse HighV4 (6a)
16StampedeV9 (6c)
17Dateline Traverse ExtensionV4 (6a)
18Dateline TraverseV3 (6a)
19Pisa Wall HighV2 (5c)
20Pisa Wall Traverse MiddleV4 (6a) ***
21Pisa Wall LowV2 (5c)
22Pisa Wall Lower Right / PitBull FinishV4 (6b)
 LADY JANE WALL 
24Too Bold for Steve BootV2 (5c)
25Set SquareV0 (5a)
26Set Square DirectV2 (5c) *
27Tequila SunriseV2 (6a) ***
28Rubber WillieV6 (6b)
29Harvey WallbangerV2 (5c) ***
30Black RussianV4 (6a)
31Lew's LeapV1 (5c) **
32Lew's Leap DirectV2 (6a)
33Finger-RipperV6 (6b)
34Bermuda TriangleV4 (6a) ***
35Bermuda Triangle DirectV6 (6b)
36Cosine AlternativeV6 (6b)
37BreakawayV8 (6c) *
38CatalepsyV7 (6c) ***
39MonoblockV10 (7a) ***
40BernieV6 (6b) **
41TerminationV7 (6c)
42PhilharmonicV5 (6b) **
43AlgripperV2 (5c) **
44Jurassic PorkE5 6b
45Lady JaneE1 5c **
46CrossbowE1 6a
47Lady Jane Direct StartE1 5c
48SidestepE1 5c *
49Twin Scoops DirectE1 6a *
50Twin ScoopsHVS 4c **
51Twin Scoops Right-handE3 5c
52Creeping JesusE1 5b **
53Creeping Jesus DirectV2 5c
54Kitt's WallE5 6b **
55The Black Pimp from MarseillesE6 6b *
56UnicornE3 5b **
57Cave Route Right-handE6 6b
58LadytronE4 5c **
59Cardiac AreteE4 6b **
60Hart's AreteE4 6b **
61Zigger ZaggerE2 5b **
62Big GreenieE3 5c *
63The HulkE2 5c
64Crack and UpE1 5b ***
65Corner and OverhangE2 5b *
66McArthur ParkE3 6a *
67Eliminate OneE2 5b
68The AbortE1 5b ***
69Eliminate TwoE2 5b
70One StepE1 5b *
71Eliminate ThreeE3 5c
72The WebE1 5b *
 LADY JANE ELIMINATE BOULDERING 
74Problem 1VB (4b)
75Problem 2V3 (6a)
76The MantleV3 (6a)
77Problem 4VB (4c)
78Problem 5V1 (5c)
79Problem 5.5V4 (6a-6b
80The DenominatorV7 (6b)
81Problem 6V1 (5c)
82Problem 7V1 (5c)
83Problem 8V7 (6b)
84Problem 9V0+ (5b)
85Problem 10V0- (5a)
86Problem 11V4 (6a-6b
87Problem 12V0 (5b)
88Problem 13V3 (6a)
89Problem 14V9 (6c)
90Hart's AreteV4 (6a)
91Hart's Arete LaybackV5 (6b)
92Hart's Arete 1 handedV7 6b ***
93Problem 15V6 (6b)
94Problem 16V0+ (5b)
95Problem 17V3 (6a)
96Problem 18V2 (5c)
97Problem 19V1 (5c)
98Joe's Direct StartV8 (6c)
 PEX WALL 
100Pex WallE4 6a
101Eliminate FourE3 5c
102The WitchE2 5b **
103Four JaysE2 5b
104The WizardE2 5b
105Green MonsterE4 6a
106AlchemyE4 6a *
107WarlockE3 5c **
108WarcryE3 6a
109WarmongerE5 6b
110Cobweb CrackE1 5b **
111SpidermanE5 6b
112WarlordE3 6a ***
113The PacifistE5 6b *
114InnocentE4 6a *
115PeelerXS 5b
116VibratorXS 5b
117TridentXS 5a
118Right CornerXS 4a
 PHILANDER WALL 
120PhilandererXS 4b
121Massey StreetXS 5b
122Wod's SlotXS 5c
123Key of the DoorXS 4b
 GAMING CLUB WALL 
125Gaming ClubE2 5a *
126SandinistaV3 6a
127Fallout ZoneV3 6a
128Pure ManiaV3 6a
129ContraV3 6a
130Casino ClubV0 5a
131The TalismanV0 4c
132A RouteV0- 3a
133B RouteVB 3a
134BrambleV0 5a
135Thin Crack (5c)V2 5c
136RambleV0 4c
137Short CrackV0- 4b
138Heather WallV1 (5b) *
139Bon AmiV0 (5b)
140Bon Gre MalgreV2 5b
141Master RaceE5 6b
142The RackE1 5a **
 TORTURE WALL 
144Pipe DownE3 5c
145ThumbscrewV1 5b *
146Iron MaidenV2 5c **
147GarotteV1 5b *
148Bon BonV0 4a
149GazeboV0 5a
150Ledge RouteVB 3a
 MEMORIAL WALL 
152Sweeney AreteV0 (5a) **
153RobberyV2 5c
154HeadstoneV4 (6a)
155CenotaphV0 5a *
156Memorial WallV0- 4b **
157TombstoneV0 5a
158Memorial CornerV0- 4b
 VAG CRAP WALL 
160Hunter's WalkE2 5c *
161St PaulE2 5c *
162WeaselE2 5c **
163FerretE1 5a *
164Swinging GulchV0 4b
165StoolieV0+ 4c
166JudderV1 4c
167Four MostV1 4c
168Ok, Blue EyesV0+ 4c
169Sabre CutHS 4c
170Pink PantherV0 5a
171HookeyE2 5b
172Pink WallE3 6a
 PINK WALL AREA 
174Pink CornerV0- 4c
175BillE1 5a
176BenE2 5c
177BelcherE3 6a
178SnookerVB 3a
179Coffin CrackVB 3b
180Coffin WallVB 3b
181Borehole Slab, Left HandVB 3a
182JayVB 3a
183Borehole Slab, Right HandVB 3a
184NuttyVB 3a
185Diagonal CrackVB 3a
186Low OverhangVB 3b
187Thin Crack (3a)VB 3a
188Triangular LedgeVB 3a
189OverlapVB 3c
190Shallow CornerVB 3a
191ScroogeVB 3c
 SHORT WALL 
193BlobVB 3c
194CobVB 4a
195Short WallVB 4b
196Hot AchesV2 5c
197Marble EyesV0 5a
 KNIFE WALL 
199The KnifeE4 6a ***
200Catemytes CrackE5 6b *
201Main WallE5 6b **
202StaminadeE6 6b ***
203Lemonadenone 6b
204Pernod and Blacknone 6b
205Rum and Cocainenone 6b
 DATELINE WALL 
207One of These Days Direct StartE4 5c *
208One of These DaysE3 5c **
209One of These Days Direct FinishE4 6a **
210The Famous Alto Sax Breaknone 6c *
211Padarn DanceE5 6b *
212DatelineE2 5c ***
213SinbadE6 6b **
214DepressionE6 6b **
215Exit On AirE6 6b ***
216Black MagicE6 6b ***
217Black Magic DirectE6 6c *
218Black Magic Direct FinishE6 6c *
219Acid TestE5 6b **
220Parker's MoodE5 6b *
221EuphoriaE6 6b
222Never Mind the AcidE4 5c
223TreadmillE4 5c
 PISA WALL 
225The WidowV1 (5b)
226JotaV5 (6a)
227Polar BearV5 (6b) *
228Time PassageV4 (6b) *
229Time Passage Direct StartV6 6b
230Time Passage Direct FinishV6 6c
231CyclopsV1 (5b)
232Two EyesVS 4c **
233CorneaV2 (5c) **
234Willy Simm's Silly WhimV6 (6b) *
235RetinaV1 (5b) *
236Oak Tree WallV5 6a
237NamelessVS 4c *
238IrisV0 4c
239EliminateV0 4b *
240GoliathV2 (5c) *
241CataractV5 6b
242Square FourV0- 4b *
243GreetingV1 (5b) *
244HandshakeV1 (5b) *
245Pisa WallV0- 4a **
246Warm UpV1 5b
247Straight CrackV0- 4a **
248Eliminate WallV1 (5b) *
249Mankey RoadV2 (5c) **
250True GripV2 5c
251Monkey GripV1 (5b) *
252Green StreakV1 (5b) *
253FingersV2 (5c)
254Bushy TaleV1 (5b) *
255One MoveV2 (6a) *
256Thumb ScrewV3 (6a)
257CommandoV3 (6a)
258GorillaV2 (5c) **
259Rock OverV0 4c
 PISA WALL ELIMINATE BOULDERING 
261The 7ft DynoV8+ **
262Pex DynoV7
263VitaliteV6 **
264Vitalite LighterV7 *
265Silly BoyV3
266StretchV4
267The Fat NeckV1
268Big EricV6
269Andy Who?V7
270Punks at PexV7
271Silly Boy DirectV5
272Red FlashV5
273Big NickV6
274The South West OverhangV8
275South West Overhang Sit StartV9
276Trad Sit DownV2
277North West OverhangV8
278North West Overhang Sit StartV10
279Red AlV3
280Blue JimV2
281TwisterV3
282Get BetterV4
283Bog StandardV3
284Poor LenoV3
285Dimples TraverseV4 6a
286Pockets TraverseV3 6a
287Yer BasicV2
2881066V1
289Battle of HastingsV3
290King KennyV6
 PROBLEMS NEED MORE INFO. 
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
This is where I experienced rock climbing for the very first time some 33 years ago. For the sake of nostalgia I often pay it a visit when I pop over from Australia, my current home. I did this in April 2014 and can only say it was squalid. Garbage and broken glass everywhere and the bin at the car park by the observatory overflowing with bags of dog shit. The smell was overpowering. What a shame.
Karl Bromelow - 28/Apr/14
I live down the road from pex hill, and it's true you do sometimes get groups of kids drinking up there, but only if you're there quite late and on a friday-sunday, i've only climbed there once but i walk the dog up there and it's normally very quiet.
Drumguru1 - 24/Jan/13
Last but one visit I saw a Kestrel catch something in the bottom of the quarry and eat it on a small ledge near the top of Dateline. No-one else there as it was a rather damp evening, not entirely urban squalor!
harold walmsley - 20/Jul/12
Climb here all the time, it's a nice quiet place to go and climb. Needs a little bit of a clean up though down in the Quarry maybe one day we will get a little cleaning up session going on down there, with the people that use it and make it a nice clean place to going and climb for all of out fellow climbers :D who's up for it ??
_Robert_Watson_ - 15/Dec/11
Ignore the comments about people getting rocks thrown at them. This has never happened to me. Never had anything stolen from there either but keep an eye on the valuables just in case, or better still leave them at home. There's not that much litter about either, true that it's worse than most crags but the often mentioned fields of broken glass don't actually exist.
Will Hunt - 17/Jan/09
Yea it's Widnes not Liverpool. I live just down the road and would hate to think that I live in such an armpit. That said it may as well be, what with the local youths knocking about throwing rocks at the climbers. If you catch her on a good day then you can have a bomber day at Pex other wise your just gonna get stoned (and not in the good way.) An excelent place for honing finger strength and tech.
Quixos - 09/Dec/08
Just a note that Widnes is not in Liverpool (I am from the next town across) - but true there is little to do for the young people, still no excuse to be making a mess though! Scooperman - I'll be home in the summer months for some climbing - may see you around?
Krusty162002 - 04/Feb/08
Any climbers around pex hill, i'm 17, and a local of Cronton, wondering if you guys go regularly, as i'm looking to start learning how to climb properly. Mainly for pekkie, as i'd probably recognize you anyway.
scooperman - 19/Jan/08
I some times wonder about people, its in the middle of liverpool! what do you want the kids to stay away, for young kids growing up on estates and that, this is a paradise play ground. no i am not sicking up for them, as its angers me to thats they cant keep there emptys, but thats life, its in a city, people are way to used to the hills ect... so when coming to this crag they see littler and think "oh no" when you should be thinkin, "well i cant compare it to north wales, as its in liverpool" does that make sense....
phil_freeman - 14/Dec/07
Nice place to bolder, unfortunately the local kids seem to take great pleasure in going up to the edge of the quarry getting drunk and launching their empty's into the quarry, so now the vast majority of the quarry floor is covered in glass and litter. If you dont have a boldering mat i would advise against going here, as dropping off the wall onto the floor can result in glass going straight through your rock shoes. Again a real shame about this area, i dont think i'll be venturing here again until something is done about the vandels.
deltamatt71 - 10/Sep/07
Nice pic of staminade...but don't forget this was soled in 1989!! Anyone out there repeated it?
Parker550 - 01/Dec/06
Hi, I went climbing at Pex Hill for the first time in 10 years. There are still some great routes there but you need to beware. On arrival we met a climber that had just had is wallet stolen from his rucksack. It appears that a bloke and his very young daughter were sat at the bottom watching them climb. They think that he saw the wallet being zipped into a pocket on the rucksack and while the climber was climbing they had away with the wallet. There were also a couple of groups of mid-teenage lads hanging around. Throwing rocks and generally making a noise and making it difficult to concentrate on the climbing. Shame really.
spacedog21 - 12/Sep/06
Phil yer messer, telling stories there? Pex is a great place, great for homing talents and generating better finger strength, giveit a try...
Jamie - 18/Feb/06
I have been climbing for many years.Pex is a happy go lucky type of crag good for finger strength and technique good to camp for locals are willing to share there marijuana and cronton girls.So come and make a night of it and climb of the morning
Phill baker - 23/Jan/06
I added a few comments against some of the routes, myself and chris hunter were fairly active at pexy in the early 70's, i actually lent phil davidson my eb's to try a route when he turned up after school with a mate. we did loads of stuff and some of the naming of routes, i am the rob on the back wall, kev and rob about 2 thirds up. pex hill is definately one of the best little crags in the world. robbie mallinson
robbie mallinson - 21/Jan/06
omg never seen anything better, best bloody climbs for miles i have to agree THE DOGS BOLLOCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
nolo - 15/Jan/06
its for people who don't like heights and is home to hippies and glue sniffers
helen - 14/Nov/05
Fantastic training and so much better than an indoor wall on a summers evening. Not much there that is easy.
Richard Bradley - 03/Aug/05
Spent 30 years of my life climbing at Pex Hill - right on my doorstep. That's where the name Pekkie comes from! Tried to correct errors and provide historical context - see my comments on individual routes. This is a great crag - very good for technique and finger strength. Dries out quickly too. Does need regular cleaning and pruning back of brambles and gorse. Volunteers welcome!
Pekkie - 16/Jul/05
Totally fcukin awesome. Nuff said...
Original Party Boy - 17/Jun/05
Heaven is a hole in the ground. One of the best bouldering/soloing venues in the land. Awesome for your footwork, balance and finger strength. If you think your good at slabs then try Monoblock.....
andy farnell - 31/Mar/03
THE DOGS BOLLOCKS, best crag on earth all those who never climb here should be flogged
666DENVER666 - 10/Mar/03
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 22/Jun/2013

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