Climbs 251
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SE

Eclipse Climbing © andi turner

Crag features

Rough, crystalline grit where overhanging hand-mauling cracks are a speciality, but grooves and slabs provide respite. A great morning crag or a retreat from the heat on summer afternoons (take the midge cream). Sandy/green early in the year. Best routes include The Crippler and Prostration (both HVS 5a), Foord's Folly (E1 6a), the unlikely Gumshoe (E2 5c) and, if you like mantles, Traveller in Time (E4 6a). THE route of the crag however has to be Ramshaw Crack (E4 6a), for which tape and large Friends are small crumbs of comfort!

Approach notes

From Buxton or Leek, the rocks lie parallel and close to the A53. Limited parking just off a narrow track leading off the main road at the southern end of the rocks.

DO NOT climb on the Winking Eye Buttress.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
If anyone finds a pair of women's blue five ten anasazis and a colourful evolv chalk bag at the crag please could you let me know. Think I left them there after a bouldering session on Sunday.
Roisin - 13/Jul/16
this place is vicious
wig - 29/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pinnacle 
2East FaceM 18
3After EightS 6
4Southern CrackVD 11
5PlayawayV0+ 1
6The WhaleV3+  
7Shallow RunVB 1
 Loaf and Cheese Area 
9Assembled TechniquesE5 6a *1
10Loaf and CheeseVS 4c *37
11Dream FighterE3 6a 2
12Green CrackVS 5a 63
13National AcrobatE5 6c **1
14Traveller in TimeE4 6a ***165
15Body PoppE4 6b *17
16Wall and GrooveVD *193
17The ArÍteS 4a *212
18Louie GrooveE1 5b **498
19Leeds SlabHS 4b 277
20Leeds CrackD 381
21Leeds ArÍteHVS 5b 1
22Honest JonnyD 225
 Undertaker 
24The Undertaker
-
E3 6a *16
25Melvyn BraggV8 10
26Pink Flake
-
V1 17
27MantelVB 8
28The Letter TV3 2
29Twin Cracks
-
D 19
30Double Chin
-
S 9
31ProwlerHVS 4c 10
 The Crank Area 
33SteeperV0+ 4
34EquilibriaV1 4
35The Great Zawn
-
HVS 5a **64
36Broken Groove
-
D *110
37Broken Groove ArÍte
-
D 39
38Gully ArÍte *E1 5c 2
39Wellingtons
-
VD *72
40MasochismHVS 5b 67
41T'rival TraverseE2 6a 4
42Rock TriviaE2 6c 4
43Trivial TraverseHVS 5a 8
44SneezeE1 5b *80
45The CrankVS 4c **380
46Ultimate SculptureE8 7a **1
 South Buttress 
48Chockstone ChimneyVD 62
49Maximum HypeE3 5c *1
50Waiting For The LionsE3 5c *3
51GumshoeE2 5c ***78
52Wine GumsE4 6a **1
53Tally NotHVS 5c *18
54Battle of the BulgeVS 4b *306
55GunfireHVS 4c *3
56The CannonHVS 4c *91
57TortureE4 5c *7
58Whilly's WhopperVS 4c 42
59Phallic CrackS 4a ***529
60AlcatrazE1 5b *64
61Juan CurE5 6a **5
62The UntouchableE1 5b **51
63Corner CrackS 4a 125
64The RipplerVS 5a *18
65Midge
-
V3 1
66Cleg
-
V0- 5
67BodgeV2 * 
 Lower Tier 
69Sensible Shoes
-
f4 7
70Crab Walk Direct
-
f6A *26
71Crab Walk DirectVS 5b 16
72Roof Direct
-
f6C 25
73Smoothment TraverseV3 41
74Overlap
-
V2 6
75Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragonf7A+ ** 
76Sketching WildlyE6 6c ** 
77Crab WalkS 4a 94
78Brown's CrackE2 5c **94
79ProstrationHVS 5a **117
80Rock Climbing in Britainf7A+ 22
81Roll OffV2 19
82Tit Gripf7C+ * 
83CakeV2 22
84Collywoodf6C **52
85Colly WobbleE4 6b **3
86Don's CrackE1 5b *95
87Bridgy's Metro MadnessV5  
88Hem Linef6A 6a *28
89TierdropE5 6b ***20
90Tierdrop
-
f7A+ ***58
91Sam's Left-hand
-
f7B ** 
92Tier's EndVS 5a 42
93Tier's End Sit StartV6 **20
94Last DropV1 37
95AbdomenS 4a 16
 Dangerous Crocodile Bouldering 
 Dirty Warm Ups 
98DCB Problem 1V1 15
99DCB Problem 2V0 10
100DCB Problem 3V1 19
101DCB Problem 4V0- 20
102DCB Problem 5V0 15
103Scotch eggsV3 *2
 Main Area 
105Up the BottomV3 2
106Easy Prowf3+ *60
107Little Prow
-
f6C *11
108Slappy SecondsV5 1
109The Scoop
-
f4 80
110The Lurch
-
f6B+ **31
111Ossie's Bulge
-
f6B+ **148
112Ram Air
-
f7B+ ***17
113Elastic Wall
-
f6C *23
114The ArÍte
-
f6A *54
1155c Wall
-
f6A *59
116Baby Groove
-
V0- *64
117Mansize
-
f7C  
118Hanging Crack
-
f5 31
119Classic Mantel
-
f5 27
120Saianf7A 1
121Billberries Indirect DirectV3 1
122A Close ShaveE2 5c * 
123Johnny's Groove
-
V8  
124Crocodile Slot
-
f5 16
125Right Slot
-
f5 5
 Dangerous Crocodile Snogging 
127The ComedianHS 4b *49
128The Comedian DirectHVS 5a 9
129Paul's Rib
-
E5 6c  
130Camelian CrackVD *115
131Pat's ParchedE1 5b 22
132Dangerous Crocodile SnoggingE7 6b **15
133BlockbusterE5 6c *3
134Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop, Clippity ClopE7 6c ***6
135Elastic LimitE2 6a *9
 Boomerang Buttress 
137Rem's RunnelE3 5a 1
138Seb's CrackHVS 5b  
139Pammies other CleavageE2 5c ** 
140Creep, Leap, Creep, CreepE4 6b *9
141The WrigglerHS 4b 16
142ArÍte and CrackVD *223
143HandrailE2 5c *15
144Handrail DirectE4 6a *6
145Cedez le PassageE6 6b  
146AssegaiVS 4c *24
147BowrosinVS 4c *71
148English TownsE3 5c *12
149Spanish Fly
-
E2 5c  
150BoomerangVD ***623
151Wick SlipE5 6b ** 
152MontyE4 6b *1
153WatercourseHS 4a 33
154Dan's DareVS 4c 7
155Gully WallHVS 5a 4
 Ramshaw Buttress 
157Little NastyE1 5b 11
158Electric SavageE3 5c *1
159Ramshaw CrackE4 6a ***36
160Four Purists
-
VS 5a 2
161Never, Never LandE7 6b ***29
162Green CornerS 4a 22
163Zigzag RouteVD 14
164Zigzag Route VariationHS 4c 1
 Imposition Area 
166Roller CoasterE6 6c *1
167Boom BipE7 7a ***2
168ImpositionE1 5b *28
169Iron Horse CrackD 52
170Scooped SurpriseE3 6a 1
171Tricouni CrackHS 4b *138
172Rubber CrackVS 4c 29
173DarknessS 4a 56
174Army Route
-
D 16
175Dusk
-
D 10
 Flaky Buttress 
177Flake GullyM 32
178Flake Gully Continuation
-
D 2
179Flaky Wall DirectVS 4b **169
180Flaky Wall IndirectVS 4c *24
181Cracked GullyD 83
182Cracked ArÍteVD 53
183ArÍte WallD 51
184Crystal TippsE1 5c **16
185The Ultra DirectE2 6b **3
186Magic Roundabout Super DirectE1 5c *29
187Magic Roundabout DirectHVS 4c *64
188Magic RoundaboutS 4a **247
189Mystic MegS 4a 2
190Saul's BypassHVS 5b * 
191The Delectable DeviationVS 4c *36
192Perched FlakeD 57
193Be CalmedE2 6c *2
194Force NineE4 6c *6
195Port CrackS 4a *82
196Time OutE2 5c *25
197Starboard CrackE1 5b 11
 Magic Roundabout Boulders 
199Force Nine
-
f7A ***5
200Be Calmed
-
f6B+ *3
201Be Calmed Right-Hand
-
f6C+ *3
202Magic ArÍte
-
f4 *43
203The Finger
-
f3 26
204Jamless
-
f5 *19
205ArÍte On Left
-
f7A *1
206Epilogue
-
f7A **22
207The Rammer
-
f5 ***52
208Monologue
-
f7C *20
209The Pinches
-
f6A **50
210Practice ChimneyV0- 29
211Dialoguef7B+ ***6
212Cracked ArÍte
-
f5 *36
 Roman Nose Buttress 
214Big RichardS 4a 5
215The ProboscidHVS 4c 4
216The CripplerHVS 5a ***89
217EscapeE1 5b 2
218MantrapHVD 17
 The Pinnacle 
220Wheel of Misfortunef6A+ 1
221Great Scene BabyS 4a 57
222Great Scene Baby DirectVS 5b 4
223Groovy BabyHS 4b 25
224Pile DriverVS 4c *27
225The PressE1 5b *18
226Night of LustE4 6b * 
227RegE7 7a ***1
228CurfewHVS 5b *7
229Foord's FollyE1 6a ***40
230The SwingerVS 4c **43
231The DoggerV4 1
 Night of Lust Bouldering 
233Press Direct
-
f6B *25
234Press Direct Sit Start
-
f7A 28
235Lust Left-Handf7B *20
236Night of Lust Start
-
f7A ***43
237Runnel Entry
-
f6C *23
238Foord's Folly Start
-
f6A 9
 Last Rocks 
240Slow Hand ClapE2 5c 4
241Modesty CrackD 9
242California Screaming
-
f7B **2
243The BragVS 5a *4
244Shark's FinHS 5a ***211
245Sharks Fin DynoV5 ***20
246Early RetirementD 9
247Rash ChallengeE1 5a 1
248Honking Bank WorkerE2 5c 1
249Extended CreditHVS 5a *4
250CaramtaS 4a 8
251Highnekenf7B+ **1
252The PrismVD 9
253Approaching DarkE1 6a 1
254LecheryHS 4a 3
255Ceiling ZeroHVS 4c *3
256Pocket WallHS 4a 5
257Uncle ScarfaceV4 *1
258CurverHVD **12
259Fist of FunE6 6c **1
260Old FogeyE3 5c **18
261Old Fogey DirectE5 6b **4
262King HaroldS 4a *13
263Little Giraffe ManHS *11
 Winking Eye - NO CLIMBING 
265North CheekVD 5
266Middle RouteS 2
267The DolemanS 2
268Collar Bone
-
D 3
269The Shoulder
-
HVD 1
270Owl'ole
-
D 3
271Hemm LineV5 *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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