Climbs 251
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces SE

Eclipse Climbing © andi turner

Crag features

Rough, crystalline grit where overhanging hand-mauling cracks are a speciality, but grooves and slabs provide respite. A great morning crag or a retreat from the heat on summer afternoons (take the midge cream). Sandy/green early in the year. Best routes include The Crippler and Prostration (both HVS 5a), Foord's Folly (E1 6a), the unlikely Gumshoe (E2 5c) and, if you like mantles, Traveller in Time (E4 6a). THE route of the crag however has to be Ramshaw Crack (E4 6a), for which tape and large Friends are small crumbs of comfort!

Approach notes

From Buxton or Leek, the rocks lie parallel and close to the A53. Limited parking just off a narrow track leading off the main road at the southern end of the rocks.

DO NOT climb on the Winking Eye Buttress.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
If anyone finds a pair of women's blue five ten anasazis and a colourful evolv chalk bag at the crag please could you let me know. Think I left them there after a bouldering session on Sunday.
Roisin - 13/Jul/16
this place is vicious
wig - 29/Oct/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pinnacle 
2East FaceM 18
3After EightS 6
4Southern CrackVD 11
 Loaf and Cheese Area 
6Assembled TechniquesE5 6a *1
7Loaf and CheeseVS 4c *37
8Dream FighterE3 6a 2
9Green CrackVS 5a 61
10National AcrobatE5 6c **1
11Traveller in TimeE4 6a ***160
12Body PoppE4 6b *17
13Wall and GrooveVD *192
14The ArÍteS 4a *209
15Louie GrooveE1 5b **496
16Leeds SlabHS 4b 276
17Leeds CrackD 380
18Leeds ArÍteHVS 5b 1
19Honest JonnyD 224
 Undertaker 
21The Undertaker
-
E3 6a *16
22Melvyn BraggV8 10
23Pink Flake
-
V1 17
24MantelVB 8
25The Letter TV3 2
26Twin Cracks
-
D 19
27Double Chin
-
S 9
28ProwlerHVS 4c 10
 The Crank Area 
30SteeperV0+ 4
31EquilibriaV1 4
32The Great Zawn
-
HVS 5a **64
33Broken Groove
-
D *108
34Broken Groove ArÍte
-
D 39
35Gully ArÍte *E1 5c 2
36Wellingtons
-
VD *72
37MasochismHVS 5b 68
38T'rival TraverseE2 6a 4
39Rock TriviaE2 6c 4
40Trivial TraverseHVS 5a 8
41SneezeE1 5b *80
42The CrankVS 4c **377
43Ultimate SculptureE8 7a **1
 South Buttress 
45Chockstone ChimneyVD 62
46Maximum HypeE3 5c *1
47Waiting For The LionsE3 5c *3
48GumshoeE2 5c ***78
49Wine GumsE4 6a **1
50Tally NotHVS 5c *18
51Battle of the BulgeVS 4b *300
52GunfireHVS 4c *3
53The CannonHVS 4c *91
54TortureE4 5c *7
55Whilly's WhopperVS 4c 42
56Phallic CrackS 4a ***524
57AlcatrazE1 5b *64
58Juan CurE5 6a **5
59The UntouchableE1 5b **51
60Corner CrackS 4a 123
61The RipplerVS 5a *18
62Midge
-
V3 1
63Cleg
-
V0- 5
64BodgeV2 * 
 Lower Tier 
66Sensible Shoes
-
f4 6
67Crab Walk Direct
-
f6A *26
68Crab Walk DirectVS 5b 16
69Roof Direct
-
f6C 23
70Smoothment TraverseV3 41
71Overlap
-
V2 6
72Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragonf7A+ ** 
73Sketching WildlyE6 6c ** 
74Crab WalkS 4a 94
75Brown's CrackE2 5c **94
76ProstrationHVS 5a **117
77Rock Climbing in Britainf7A+ 22
78Roll OffV2 18
79Tit Gripf7C+ * 
80CakeV2 19
81Collywoodf6C **52
82Colly WobbleE4 6b **3
83Don's CrackE1 5b *95
84Bridgy's Metro MadnessV5  
85Hem Linef6A 6a *27
86TierdropE5 6b ***20
87Tierdrop
-
f7A+ ***58
88Sam's Left-hand
-
f7B ** 
89Tier's EndVS 5a 39
90Tier's End Sit StartV6 **18
91Last DropV1 33
92AbdomenS 4a 15
 Dangerous Crocodile Bouldering 
 Dirty Warm Ups 
95DCB Problem 1V1 15
96DCB Problem 2V0 10
97DCB Problem 3V1 19
98DCB Problem 4V0- 20
99DCB Problem 5V0 15
100Scotch eggsV3 *2
 Main Area 
102Up the BottomV3 2
103Easy Prowf3+ *55
104Little Prow
-
f6C *10
105Slappy SecondsV5 1
106The Scoop
-
f4 74
107The Lurch
-
f6B+ **31
108Ossie's Bulge
-
f6B+ **144
109Ram Air
-
f7B+ ***11
110Elastic Wall
-
f6C *23
111The ArÍte
-
f6A *49
1125c Wall
-
f6A *57
113Baby Groove
-
V0- *60
114Mansize
-
f7C  
115Hanging Crack
-
f5 31
116Classic Mantel
-
f5 23
117Saianf7A 1
118Billberries Indirect DirectV3 1
119A Close ShaveE2 5c * 
120Johnny's Groove
-
V8  
121Crocodile Slot
-
f5 15
122Right Slot
-
f5 5
 Dangerous Crocodile Snogging 
124The ComedianHS 4b *48
125The Comedian DirectHVS 5a 9
126Paul's Rib
-
E5 6c  
127Camelian CrackVD *111
128Pat's ParchedE1 5b 22
129Dangerous Crocodile SnoggingE7 6b **15
130BlockbusterE5 6c *3
131Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop, Clippity ClopE7 6c ***6
132Elastic LimitE2 6a *9
 Boomerang Buttress 
134Rem's RunnelE3 5a 1
135Seb's CrackHVS 5b  
136Pammies other CleavageE2 5c ** 
137Creep, Leap, Creep, CreepE4 6b *9
138The WrigglerHS 4b 15
139ArÍte and CrackVD *220
140HandrailE2 5c *15
141Handrail DirectE4 6a *6
142Cedez le PassageE6 6b  
143AssegaiVS 4c *24
144BowrosinVS 4c *70
145English TownsE3 5c *12
146Spanish Fly
-
E2 5c  
147BoomerangVD ***616
148Wick SlipE5 6b ** 
149MontyE4 6b *1
150WatercourseHS 4a 30
151Dan's DareVS 4c 7
152Gully WallHVS 5a 4
 Ramshaw Buttress 
154Little NastyE1 5b 11
155Electric SavageE3 5c *1
156Ramshaw CrackE4 6a ***36
157Four Purists
-
VS 5a 2
158Never, Never LandE7 6b ***29
159Green CornerS 4a 19
160Zigzag RouteVD 14
161Zigzag Route VariationHS 4c 1
 Imposition Area 
163Roller CoasterE6 6c *1
164Boom BipE7 7a ***2
165ImpositionE1 5b *28
166Iron Horse CrackD 52
167Scooped SurpriseE3 6a 1
168Tricouni CrackHS 4b *133
169Rubber CrackVS 4c 29
170DarknessS 4a 50
171Army Route
-
D 16
172Dusk
-
D 10
 Flaky Buttress 
174Flake GullyM 32
175Flake Gully Continuation
-
D 2
176Flaky Wall DirectVS 4b **168
177Flaky Wall IndirectVS 4c *24
178Cracked GullyD 82
179Cracked ArÍteVD 52
180ArÍte WallD 50
181Crystal TippsE1 5c **16
182The Ultra DirectE2 6b **3
183Magic Roundabout Super DirectE1 5c *29
184Magic Roundabout DirectHVS 4c *63
185Magic RoundaboutS 4a **246
186Mystic MegS 4a 2
187Saul's BypassHVS 5b * 
188The Delectable DeviationVS 4c *36
189Perched FlakeD 57
190Be CalmedE2 6c *2
191Force NineE4 6c *6
192Port CrackS 4a *75
193Time OutE2 5c *25
194Starboard CrackE1 5b 11
 Magic Roundabout Boulders 
196Force Nine
-
f7A ***5
197Be Calmed
-
f6B+ *3
198Be Calmed Right-Hand
-
f6C+ *3
199Magic ArÍte
-
f4 *42
200The Finger
-
f3 26
201Jamless
-
f5 *18
202ArÍte On Left
-
f7A *1
203Epilogue
-
f7A **22
204The Rammer
-
f5 ***51
205Monologue
-
f7C *20
206The Pinches
-
f6A **48
207Practice ChimneyV0- 29
208Dialoguef7B+ ***6
209Cracked ArÍte
-
f5 *36
 Roman Nose Buttress 
211Big RichardS 4a 5
212The ProboscidHVS 4c 4
213The CripplerHVS 5a ***89
214EscapeE1 5b 2
215MantrapHVD 16
 The Pinnacle 
217Great Scene BabyS 4a 57
218Great Scene Baby DirectVS 5b 4
219Groovy BabyHS 4b 25
220Pile DriverVS 4c *27
221The PressE1 5b *18
222Night of LustE4 6b * 
223RegE7 7a ***1
224CurfewHVS 5b *7
225Foord's FollyE1 6a ***35
226The SwingerVS 4c **43
227The DoggerV4 1
 Night of Lust Bouldering 
229Press Direct
-
f6B *25
230Press Direct Sit Start
-
f7A 27
231Lust Left-Handf7B *20
232Night of Lust Start
-
f7A ***43
233Runnel Entry
-
f6C *23
234Foord's Folly Start
-
f6A 9
 Last Rocks 
236Slow Hand ClapE2 5c 4
237Modesty CrackD 9
238California Screaming
-
f7B **2
239The BragVS 5a *4
240Shark's FinHS 5a ***210
241Sharks Fin DynoV5 ***20
242Early RetirementD 9
243Rash ChallengeE1 5a 1
244Honking Bank WorkerE2 5c 1
245Extended CreditHVS 5a *4
246CaramtaS 4a 8
247Highnekenf7B+ **1
248The PrismVD 9
249Approaching DarkE1 6a 1
250LecheryHS 4a 3
251Ceiling ZeroHVS 4c *3
252Pocket WallHS 4a 5
253Uncle ScarfaceV4 *1
254CurverHVD **12
255Fist of FunE6 6c **1
256Old FogeyE3 5c **18
257Old Fogey DirectE5 6b **4
258King HaroldS 4a *13
259Little Giraffe ManHS *11
 Winking Eye - NO CLIMBING 
261North CheekVD 5
262Middle RouteS 2
263The DolemanS 2
264Collar Bone
-
D 3
265The Shoulder
-
HVD 1
266Owl'ole
-
D 3
267Hemm LineV5 *1
268Playaway *V0+ 1
269The Whale *V3+  
270Shallow Run *VB 1
271Wheel of Misfortune *f6A+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83