Climbs 168 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 116m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

A sandstone crag offering a variety of very impressive lines on rock that is never beyond suspicion. Recent new routes have been led although most climbers will use a toprope. There is plenty of bouldering and the crag is therefore reasonably popular with locals. Reaches a maximum height of 45m.The recommended routes include Red Square E1, Bruce Factor E3, Berlin Wall E7, My Piano E8, The Nuance E5, Gathering Sun E8, Marlene E4, Full Sun E6 and Leaf Storm E6.

There is also a new guidebook (2007) out for Nesscliffe alone, titled Nesscliffe.

Approach notes

Lies just above the A5 at the village of Nessliffe. Approach via the footpath opposite to The Old Three Pigeons pub.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Nesscliffe (2007), Shropshire Bouldering (2006),
Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Rubbish 1VB 4b 2
3BrownieV0- 4c 2
4boulevardV0 5a 6
5Rubbish as Wellnone 4a 4
7Badgers Crackf6A **4
8BTBf6C *5
9Golden Sallyf7A ***1
10Joesef Merrick's pet badgerf7A **2
11The Ousted Lousef5  
13AirlineV2 6a 4
14Big BabeVB 6a **1
15Hang LooseE3 6b *4
16StatinsV5 *1
17CholesterolV11 7a  
18Cholesterol Traversef7A *5
19Martians are HereV2 6a *4
20TwiggyV1 26
21Hum VeeVB 5b **5
22Fatty Basenone 3a 15
23BatmanHVS 5a **41
24In The Court of the SludgebaronE3 5c 4
25Fin'ally Makinly's GrooveE7 6c ** 
26Black CatV0 *35
27Stay CoolV8+ 6c ***18
28SnapperV2 *27
29Supa Dupa FlyV1 27
30SizmaticV2 **26
31Free BanditsV4 *14
32BodyshockV1 *49
33past cruisingV1 5b **79
34Deep Slot DynoV3 6a **12
35Thread HoleV1 36
36The RampV1 37
37SaboteurV0- 44
38BooshV0 40
39Cig ArhhhV0 20
40Boston Shortsnone 5a *13
41Wolf MotherVB 5b **6
42MangaV1 11
44DismissedE1 5c 1
45SlapperE1 5b 12
46PositiveE2 5b 4
47Sex and Casual TiesE3 6a *15
48Cones and CurrentE5 6b **79
49JumpE5 6b **27
50Marlene in the CornerE5 6a **13
51MarleneE4 6a ***65
52Marlene DirectE7 6c **12
53Trouble in ToytownE5 6b ***65
54Gathering SunE7 6c ***43
55Bass Drum HeartE6 6b 1
56The NuanceE5 6b **21
57NonsenseE5 6b **11
58Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix AnsE8 6c ***11
5910 O'Clock Saturday MorningE7 6c ***28
60Bird BrainE7 6b *2
61TombolaE7 6c **39
62My PianoE8 6c ***24
63Red SquareE2 5b ***196
64Time For TeaE7 7a *9
65Notional TrustE5 6a 10
66Le CirqueE7 6c **3
67A Thousand Setting SunsE9 7a ***3
68Bruce FactorE3 5c **24
69Pot NoodleE3 6a *6
70KhanaanE6 6b 2
71Ramblin' DaysE2 5b **23
72Open AirE3 5b **24
73Dreams are RealityE3 5c *1
74InspirationE4 5c 4
75Man of ideasE3 5b 2
77Orange DisorderE5 6a 4
78Berlin Wall TraverseV8 *10
79Sharp SlapV2 13
80The Super Traverse8a+  
81The Highwayman's EscapeV5 6b 20
82Jug U'LaV0+ 5a **63
83Dead HeadV2 *89
84Sand DishV1 29
85Meat HooksV3 5c **53
86Did Nick Tick?V5 6b **12
87PlanchV6 6b/c 15
88Il y a StaziE8 6c ***4
89Il y aV5 6b *23
90StaziV5 6b *12
91Berlin Wall EliminatesV8+  
92Berlin WallE8 6c **13
93Berlin startV2 5c+ 44
94Chipper SittingV6 *1
95Berlin's FallenV4 6a/b **77
96CUN-Trolf7A+ ***2
97ChipperV2 6a 25
98NicheV0 5a *11
99Spitting feathersE1 4c 3
100Snail TrailV3 6a 7
101STV5 6b *24
102UgawaV0 5a *11
103Wing Wallnone 4b 9
104Wing Wrappernone 5a 13
105ZionV0 5b 18
106Nine Voltsnone 5b *8
107Shropshire Slappernone 5b **9
108BonoboV0 5b 29
109Profit is DoomV2 6a *4
110Joys of Tom TomV1 5b 19
111Scufflenone 5b *13
112ImagesV2 6a **13
113PockV4 6b **11
114RippleV1 5c *23
115ImmaculatoV3 6a **13
116Puntonone 5a *6
118DreadE2 5b 10
119Bob Mambo RabbitsE1 5c 5
120PantE1 5b *43
121PantingV0- 18
122CrackleV2 **16
123SnapE1 5c 28
124Short CrackVS 5a *90
125GroundedV2 5c 14
126The TraverseV2 6a 12
128ImaginationE4 6a ***28
129My SnorkelE6 6c **9
130Straight TalkE3 5c **57
131Yukan IIE7 6b ***49
132Yukan III (Direct Finish)E7 6c **4
133Yuckan II.8; the fat boy finishE7 6c *6
134The Nesscliffe MonsterE7 6c **2
135Johnny RedE6 6b 5
136Rite TimeE7 6c **2
137Local Start for Local BoysE6 6b *1
138The Pit & the Pendulum (the full monty)E6 6a ***4
139The Pit and the PendulumE1 5b *6
140Full SunE6 6b ** 
141SunburstE7 6c ***1
142Leaf StormE6 6b **6
143The Right InitialsE5 6a *1
144The Devil's ChairE5 6b  
145My ViolinE4 5c 1
146Crocodile Cracknone 6b  
148Half A NorthumberlandV0 5a *16
149CeilingV3 *6
150Nesscliffe Witch ProjectV3 6a *1
151Little WonderlandV10 ***7
152RigpaV9 6c **22
153Northumberland WonderlandV7 ***61
154Welcome to the Woodf7C+ ***2
155Kyloe InV9 6c **21
156Northumberland LittleV9 **4
157Pete's RouteV6 6b 13
158Right-Hand RouteV4 6b **76
159One Inch PinchV7 3
160Fluid Dynamicsf7C+ ***3
161Little NorthumberlandV9 ***23
164SubtilitasV9 6c **5
165Subtilitas SSf8A ***1
166Bow TraverseV7 6b 15
168HawkeyeV7 14
170Buzz MeeksV4 6a 12
171Moon SpinnerV4 6a/b *14
172The Rampant ChopperV4 6a/b *17
173Kneel Hook TraverseV4  
174Sabred ShieldV4 1
175ReunificationV8+ *1
176Mega Tonne TravV0+ 5a *1
177TonkyV2 6a *1
178MincerV1 5b 1
179Bow ReverseV7 *1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went to give a friend a belay today on my piano, the good finger jug at the top felt loose an flexed abit is now totally gone. not sure on the date it came of but its in a thousand pieces at the bottom. Makes the top section on moves slightly tricky as its left crimps.
luke384 - 22/Jul/12
Any chance of checking & updating the position of the climbs? They're all over the shop! ;-)
Alex Thompson - 27/Feb/12
A superb crag for the competent onsight leader, with routes that are both accessible and adventurous, up strictly the most stunning of lines.
Fiend - 20/Jun/09
This crag has grown on me and is now my new best freind
smallerrich - 03/May/08
A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the souring aręte and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the “head-point”, I just can’t understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain’s climbing treasures.
Lee Proctor - 13/May/05
fecking hard sandstone climbing! Good for a little bouldering and from the right hand side of the highwaymans cave there is the opportunity to top rope. A pretty good place to stop on route/back home from Wales to the Midlands
lordy - 18/Feb/04