Climbs 170
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 116m a.s.l
Faces SW

Hazel Findlay on Yuckan II, E7 6b © marcus wootton photography

Crag features

A sandstone crag offering a variety of very impressive lines on rock that is never beyond suspicion. Recent new routes have been led although most climbers will use a toprope. There is plenty of bouldering and the crag is therefore reasonably popular with locals. Reaches a maximum height of 45m.The recommended routes include Red Square E1, Bruce Factor E3, Berlin Wall E7, My Piano E8, The Nuance E5, Gathering Sun E8, Marlene E4, Full Sun E6 and Leaf Storm E6.

There is also a new guidebook (2007) out for Nesscliffe alone, titled Nesscliffe.

Approach notes

Lies just above the A5 at the village of Nessliffe. Approach via the footpath opposite to The Old Three Pigeons pub.


Went to give a friend a belay today on my piano, the good finger jug at the top felt loose an flexed abit is now totally gone. not sure on the date it came of but its in a thousand pieces at the bottom. Makes the top section on moves slightly tricky as its left crimps.
luke384 - 22/Jul/12
Any chance of checking & updating the position of the climbs? They're all over the shop! ;-)
Alex Thompson - 27/Feb/12
A superb crag for the competent onsight leader, with routes that are both accessible and adventurous, up strictly the most stunning of lines.
Fiend - 20/Jun/09
This crag has grown on me and is now my new best freind
smallerrich - 03/May/08
A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the souring aręte and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the “head-point”, I just can’t understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain’s climbing treasures.
Lee Proctor - 13/May/05
fecking hard sandstone climbing! Good for a little bouldering and from the right hand side of the highwaymans cave there is the opportunity to top rope. A pretty good place to stop on route/back home from Wales to the Midlands
lordy - 18/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sunset Buttress 
2Rubbish 1
VB 2
V0- 2
V0 6
5Rubbish as Wellnone 4a 4
 Sally's Garden 
7Badgers Crackf6A **4
8BTBf6C *5
9Golden Sallyf7A ***1
10Joesef Merrick's pet badgerf7A **2
11The Ousted Lousef5  
 The Far Buttress (The Alley) 
V2 4
14Big BabeVB **1
15Hang LooseE3 6b *4
16StatinsV5 *1
18Cholesterol Traversef7A *5
19Martians are HereV2 *4
V1 26
21Hum VeeVB **5
22Fatty Basenone 3a 15
23BatmanHVS 5a **45
24In The Court of the SludgebaronE3 5c 4
25Fin'ally Makinly's GrooveE7 6c ** 
26Black Cat
V0 *35
27Stay CoolV8+ ***18
28SnapperV2 *27
29Supa Dupa FlyV1 27
30SizmaticV2 **26
31Free BanditsV4 *15
32BodyshockV1 *51
33past cruising
V1 **81
34Deep Slot DynoV3 **13
35Thread HoleV1 38
36The Ramp
V1 39
V0- 46
38BooshV0 42
39Cig ArhhhV0 22
40Boston Shortsnone 5a *13
41Wolf Mother
VB **6
42MangaV1 11
 Main Wall area 
44DismissedE1 5c 1
45SlapperE1 5b 13
46PositiveE2 5b 4
47Sex and Casual Ties
E3 6a *15
48Cones and CurrentE5 6b **93
49JumpE5 6b **31
50Marlene in the CornerE5 6a **18
51MarleneE4 6a ***69
52Marlene DirectE7 6c **14
53Trouble in Toytown
E5 6b ***70
54Gathering SunE7 6c ***45
55Bass Drum HeartE6 6b 2
56The NuanceE5 6b **23
E5 6b **11
58Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix AnsE8 6c ***11
5910 O'Clock Saturday MorningE7 6c ***28
60Bird BrainE7 6b *2
61TombolaE7 6c **40
62My PianoE8 6c ***26
63Play MeE8 7a * 
64Red SquareE2 5b ***200
65Time For TeaE7 7a *11
66Notional TrustE5 6a 10
67Le CirqueE7 6c **3
68A Thousand Setting SunsE9 7a ***3
69Bruce FactorE3 5c **26
70Pot NoodleE3 6a *6
71KhanaanE6 6b 2
72Ramblin' DaysE2 5b **23
73Open Air
E3 5b **25
74Dreams are Reality
E3 5c *1
75InspirationE4 5c 5
76Man of ideasE3 5b 2
 Kynaston's Cave Area 
78Orange DisorderE5 6a 4
79Berlin Wall TraverseV8 *10
80Sharp SlapV2 13
81The Super Traverse8a+  
82The Highwayman's EscapeV5 24
83Jug U'La
V0+ **63
84Dead HeadV2 *93
85Sand Dish
V1 29
86Meat HooksV3 **55
87Did Nick Tick?V5 **12
88PlanchV6 15
89Il y a StaziE8 6c ***4
90Il y aV5 *24
91StaziV5 *13
92Berlin Wall EliminatesV8+  
93Berlin WallE8 6c **13
94Berlin start
V2 47
95Chipper SittingV6 *1
96Berlin's FallenV4 **79
97CUN-Trolf7A+ ***2
V2 26
99NicheV0 *12
100Spitting feathers
E1 4c 3
101Snail TrailV3 7
102STV5 *24
103UgawaV0 *11
104Wing Wallnone 4b 9
105Wing Wrapper
none 5a 13
V0 18
107Nine Voltsnone 5b *8
108Shropshire Slappernone 5b **9
V0 29
110Profit is DoomV2 *4
111Joys of Tom Tom
V1 19
112Scufflenone 5b *13
V2 **14
V4 **11
V1 *24
V3 **13
117Puntonone 5a *6
 Short Wall area 
E2 5b 10
120Bob Mambo RabbitsE1 5c 5
121PantE1 5b *44
V0- 18
V2 **16
124SnapE1 5c 31
125Short CrackVS 5a *94
126GroundedV2 17
127The Traverse
V2 12
 Main Quarry 
129ImaginationE4 6a ***30
130My SnorkelE6 6c **9
131Straight Talk
E3 5c **62
132Yukan IIE7 6b ***51
133Yukan III (Direct Finish)E7 6c **4
134Yuckan II.8; the fat boy finish
E7 6c *6
135The Nesscliffe MonsterE7 6c **2
136Johnny Red
E6 6b 5
137Rite Time
E7 6c **2
138Local Start for Local BoysE6 6b *1
139The Pit & the Pendulum (the full monty)E6 6a ***4
140The Pit and the PendulumE1 5b *6
141Full Sun
E6 6b ** 
142SunburstE7 6c ***1
143Leaf StormE6 6b **6
144The Right InitialsE5 6a *1
145The Devil's ChairE5 6b  
146My ViolinE4 5c 1
147Crocodile Cracknone 6b  
 Little Northumberland (The Terrace) 
149Half A NorthumberlandV0 *18
150CeilingV3 *6
151Nesscliffe Witch ProjectV3 *1
152Little WonderlandV10 ***7
153RigpaV9 **23
154Northumberland WonderlandV7 ***68
155Welcome to the Woodf7C+ ***2
156Kyloe InV7 **25
157Northumberland LittleV9 **4
158Pete's RouteV6 13
159Right-Hand RouteV4 **79
160One Inch PinchV7 3
161Fluid Dynamicsf7C+ ***3
162Little NorthumberlandV9 ***23
 Cad's Leap 
 Bow Wall 
165SubtilitasV9 **5
166Subtilitas SSf8A ***1
167Bow TraverseV7 15
 Hawk Wall 
169HawkeyeV7 16
171Buzz MeeksV4 12
172Moon SpinnerV4 *14
173The Rampant ChopperV4 *17
174Kneel Hook TraverseV4  
175Sabred ShieldV4 1
176ReunificationV8+ *1
177Mega Tonne TravV0+ *1
178TonkyV2 *1
179MincerV1 1
180Bow ReverseV7 *1
181Scrabble *E5 6b **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ed Booth