Climbs 175
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 116m a.s.l
Faces SW

Hazel Findlay on Yuckan II, E7 6b © marcus wootton photography

Crag features

A sandstone crag offering a variety of very impressive lines on rock that is never beyond suspicion. Recent new routes have been led although most climbers will use a toprope. There is plenty of bouldering and the crag is therefore reasonably popular with locals. Reaches a maximum height of 45m.The recommended routes include Red Square E1, Bruce Factor E3, Berlin Wall E7, My Piano E8, The Nuance E5, Gathering Sun E8, Marlene E4, Full Sun E6 and Leaf Storm E6.

There is also a new guidebook (2007) out for Nesscliffe alone, titled Nesscliffe.

Approach notes

Lies just above the A5 at the village of Nessliffe. Approach via the footpath opposite to The Old Three Pigeons pub.

Went to give a friend a belay today on my piano, the good finger jug at the top felt loose an flexed abit is now totally gone. not sure on the date it came of but its in a thousand pieces at the bottom. Makes the top section on moves slightly tricky as its left crimps.
luke384 - 22/Jul/12
Any chance of checking & updating the position of the climbs? They're all over the shop! ;-)
Alex Thompson - 27/Feb/12
A superb crag for the competent onsight leader, with routes that are both accessible and adventurous, up strictly the most stunning of lines.
Fiend - 20/Jun/09
This crag has grown on me and is now my new best freind
smallerrich - 03/May/08
A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the souring arête and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the “head-point”, I just can’t understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain’s climbing treasures.
Lee Proctor - 13/May/05
fecking hard sandstone climbing! Good for a little bouldering and from the right hand side of the highwaymans cave there is the opportunity to top rope. A pretty good place to stop on route/back home from Wales to the Midlands
lordy - 18/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sunset Buttress 
2Rubbish 1
VB 2
V0- 2
V0 6
5Rubbish as Wellnone 4a 4
 Sally's Garden 
7Badgers Crackf6A **4
8BTBf6C *5
9Golden Sallyf7A ***1
10Joesef Merrick's pet badgerf7A **2
11The Ousted Lousef5  
 The Far Buttress (The Alley) 
V2 4
14Big BabeVB **1
15Hang LooseE3 6b *4
16StatinsV5 *1
18Cholesterol Traversef7A *5
19Martians are HereV2 *4
V1 26
21Hum VeeVB **5
22Fatty Basenone 3a 18
23BatmanHVS 5a **45
24In The Court of the SludgebaronE3 5c 4
25Fin'ally Makinly's GrooveE7 6c ** 
26Black Cat
V0 *38
27Stay CoolV8+ ***18
28SnapperV2 *28
29Supa Dupa FlyV1 30
30SizmaticV2 **26
31Free BanditsV4 *16
32BodyshockV1 *55
33past cruising
V1 **86
34Deep Slot DynoV3 **13
35Thread HoleV1 40
36The Ramp
V1 41
V0- 48
38BooshV0 42
39Cig ArhhhV0 23
40Boston Shortsnone 5a *13
41Wolf Mother
VB **6
42MangaV1 11
 Main Wall area 
44Short Crack
V1 3
45Short Corner
V2 1
46DismissedE1 5c 2
47SlapperE1 5b 14
48PositiveE2 5b 5
49Sex and Casual Ties
E3 6a *16
50ScrabbleE5 6b 1
51Cones and CurrentE5 6b **112
52JumpE5 6b **31
53Marlene in the CornerE5 6a **18
54MarleneE4 6a ***82
55Marlene DirectE7 6c **14
56Trouble in Toytown
E5 6b ***88
57Gathering SunE7 6c ***45
58Bass Drum HeartE6 6b 2
59The NuanceE5 6b **23
E5 6b **11
61Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix AnsE8 6c ***15
6210 O'Clock Saturday MorningE7 6c ***32
63Bird BrainE7 6b *2
64TombolaE7 6c **43
65My PianoE8 6c ***36
66Play MeE8 7a * 
67Red SquareE2 5b ***246
68Time For TeaE7 7a *11
69Notional TrustE5 6a 10
70Le CirqueE7 6c **3
71A Thousand Setting SunsE9 7a ***7
72Bruce FactorE3 5c **26
73Pot NoodleE3 6a *6
74KhanaanE6 6b 2
75Ramblin' DaysE2 5b **23
76Open Air
E3 5b **25
77Dreams are Reality
E3 5c *1
78InspirationE4 5c 6
79Man of ideasE3 5b 2
 Kynaston's Cave Area 
81Orange DisorderE5 6a 5
82Berlin Wall TraverseV8 *10
83Sharp SlapV2 13
84The Super Traverse8a+  
85The Highwayman's EscapeV5 25
86Jug U'La
V0+ **73
87Dead HeadV2 *101
88Sand Dish
V1 32
89Meat HooksV3 **58
90Did Nick Tick?V5 **12
91PlanchV6 16
92Il y a StaziE8 6c ***4
93Il y aV5 *27
94StaziV5 *13
95Berlin Wall EliminatesV8+  
96Berlin WallE8 6c **17
97Berlin start
V2 51
98Chipper SittingV6 *1
99Berlin's FallenV4 **86
100CUN-Trolf7A+ ***2
V2 27
102NicheV0 *12
103Spitting feathers
E1 4c 3
104Snail TrailV3 7
105STV5 *24
106UgawaV0 *13
107Wing Wallnone 4b 12
108Wing Wrapper
none 5a 14
V0 20
110Nine Voltsnone 5b *10
111Shropshire Slappernone 5b **11
V0 30
113Profit is DoomV2 *4
114Joys of Tom Tom
V1 19
115Scufflenone 5b *13
V2 **14
V4 **12
V1 *28
V3 **13
120Puntonone 5a *6
 Short Wall area 
E2 5b 11
123Bob Mambo RabbitsE1 5c 6
124PantE1 5b *45
V0- 20
V2 **16
127SnapE1 5c 31
128Short CrackVS 5a *95
129GroundedV2 18
130The Traverse
V2 12
 Main Quarry 
132ImaginationE4 6a ***30
133My SnorkelE6 6c **9
134Straight Talk
E3 5c **64
135Yukan IIE7 6b ***51
136Yukan III (Direct Finish)E7 6c **4
137Yuckan II.8; the fat boy finish
E7 6c *6
138The Nesscliffe MonsterE7 6c **2
139Johnny Red
E6 6b 5
140Rite Time
E7 6c **2
141Local Start for Local BoysE6 6b *1
142The Pit & the Pendulum (the full monty)E6 6a ***4
143The Pit and the PendulumE1 5b *6
144Full Sun
E6 6b ** 
145SunburstE7 6c ***1
146Leaf StormE6 6b **6
147The Right InitialsE5 6a *1
148The Devil's ChairE5 6b  
149My ViolinE4 5c 1
150Crocodile Cracknone 6b  
 Little Northumberland (The Terrace) 
152Half A NorthumberlandV0 *22
153CeilingV3 *7
154Nesscliffe Witch ProjectV3 *1
155Little WonderlandV10 ***7
156RigpaV9 **23
157Northumberland WonderlandV7 ***82
158Welcome to the Woodf7C+ ***2
159Kyloe InV7 **25
160Northumberland LittleV9 **4
161Pete's RouteV6 13
162Right-Hand RouteV4 **83
163One Inch PinchV7 3
164Fluid Dynamicsf7C+ ***3
165Little NorthumberlandV9 ***23
 Cad's Leap 
 Bow Wall 
168SubtilitasV9 **5
169Subtilitas SSf8A ***1
170Bow TraverseV7 15
 Hawk Wall 
172HawkeyeV7 16
174Buzz MeeksV4 12
175Moon SpinnerV4 *14
176The Rampant ChopperV4 *19
177Kneel Hook TraverseV4  
178Sabred ShieldV4 1
179ReunificationV8+ *1
180Mega Tonne TravV0+ *1
181TonkyV2 *1
182MincerV1 3
183Bow ReverseV7 *1
184Local RiteE8 6c ***1
185Bueno *
VE 2
186Round About *VE 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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