Climbs 165 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude ? – Faces SW

Crag features
A sandstone crag offering a variety of very impressive lines on rock that is never beyond suspicion. Recent new routes have been led although most climbers will use a toprope. There is plenty of bouldering and the crag is therefore reasonably popular with locals. Reaches a maximum height of 45m.The recommended routes include Red Square E1, Bruce Factor E3, Berlin Wall E7, My Piano E8, The Nuance E5, Gathering Sun E8, Marlene E4, Full Sun E6 and Leaf Storm E6.

There is also a new guidebook (2007) out for Nesscliffe alone, titled Nesscliffe.

Access notes
Lies just above the A5 at the village of Nessliffe. Approach via the footpath opposite to The Old Three Pigeons pub.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Nesscliffe (2007), Shropshire Bouldering (2006),
Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Rubbish 1VB 4b 1
3BrownieV0- 4c 1
4boulevardV0 5a 5
5Rubbish as Wellnone 4a 3
7Badgers Crackf6A **4
8BTBf6C *4
9Golden Sallyf7A ***1
10Joesef Merrick's pet badgerf7A **1
11The Ousted Lousef5  
13AirlineV2 6a 4
14Big BabeVB 6a **1
15Hang LooseE3 6b *4
16StatinsV5 *1
17CholesterolV11 7a  
18Cholesterol Traversef7A *4
19Martians are HereV2 6a *4
20TwiggyV1 26
21Hum VeeVB 5b **5
22Fatty Basenone 3a 15
23BatmanHVS 5a **38
24In The Court of the SludgebaronE3 5c 4
25Fin'ally Makinly's GrooveE7 6c ** 
26Black CatV0 *34
27Stay CoolV9 6c ***11
28SnapperV2 *27
29Supa Dupa FlyV1 27
30SizmaticV2 **23
31Free BanditsV4 *12
32BodyshockV1 *46
33past cruisingV1 5b **76
34Deep Slot DynoV3 6a **11
35Thread HoleV1 34
36The RampV1 35
37SaboteurV0- 41
38BooshV0 39
39Cig ArhhhV0 20
40Boston Shortsnone 5a *12
41Wolf MotherVB 5b **6
42MangaV1 11
44DismissedE1 5c 1
45SlapperE1 5b 12
46PositiveE2 5b 4
47Sex and Casual TiesE3 6a *14
48Cones and CurrentE5 6b **72
49JumpE5 6b **22
50Marlene in the CornerE5 6a **10
51MarleneE4 6a ***56
52Marlene DirectE7 6c **12
53Trouble in ToytownE5 6b ***53
54Gathering SunE7 6c ***39
55Bass Drum HeartE6 6b 1
56The NuanceE5 6b **21
57NonsenseE5 6b **10
58Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix AnsE8 6c ***11
5910 O'Clock Saturday MorningE7 6c ***24
60Bird BrainE7 6b *2
61TombolaE7 6c **34
62My PianoE8 6c ***23
63Red SquareE2 5b ***181
64Time For TeaE7 7a *9
65Notional TrustE5 6a 8
66Le CirqueE7 6c **3
67A Thousand Setting SunsE9 7a ***3
68Bruce FactorE3 5c **23
69Pot NoodleE3 6a *6
70KhanaanE6 6b 2
71Ramblin' DaysE2 5b **20
72Open AirE3 5b **24
73InspirationE4 5c 3
74Man of ideasE3 5b 2
76Orange DisorderE5 6a 4
77Berlin Wall TraverseV8 *9
78Sharp SlapV2 13
79The Super Traverse8a+  
80The Highwayman's EscapeV5 6b 18
81Jug U'LaV0+ 5a **55
82Dead HeadV2 *78
83Sand DishV1 27
84Meat HooksV3 5c **48
85Did Nick Tick?V5 6b **12
86PlanchV6 6b/c 15
87Il y a StaziE8 6c ***4
88Il y aV5 6b *22
89StaziV5 6b *12
90Berlin Wall EliminatesV8+  
91Berlin WallE8 6c **10
92Berlin startV2 5c+ 36
93Chipper SittingV6 *1
94Berlin's FallenV4 6a/b **70
95CUN-Trolf7A+ ***2
96ChipperV2 6a 24
97NicheV0 5a *11
98Spitting feathersE1 4c 3
99Snail TrailV3 6a 5
100STV5 6b *24
101UgawaV0 5a *11
102Wing Wallnone 4b 8
103Wing Wrappernone 5a 10
104ZionV0 5b 17
105Nine Voltsnone 5b *7
106Shropshire Slappernone 5b **8
107BonoboV0 5b 28
108Profit is DoomV2 6a *4
109Joys of Tom TomV1 5b 17
110Scufflenone 5b *13
111ImagesV2 6a **10
112PockV4 6b **10
113RippleV1 5c *21
114ImmaculatoV3 6a **13
115Puntonone 5a *6
117DreadE2 5b 9
118Bob Mambo RabbitsE1 5c 5
119PantE1 5b *40
120PantingV0- 17
121CrackleV2 **15
122SnapE1 5c 25
123Short CrackVS 5a *86
124GroundedV2 5c 13
125The TraverseV2 6a 10
127ImaginationE4 6a ***28
128My SnorkelE6 6c **9
129Straight TalkE3 5c **50
130Yukan IIE7 6b ***42
131Yuckan II.8; the fat boy finishE7 6c *6
132The Nesscliffe MonsterE7 6c **1
133Johnny RedE6 6b 2
134Rite TimeE7 6c **2
135Local Start for Local BoysE6 6b *1
136The Pit & the Pendulum (the full monty)E6 6a ***4
137The Pit and the PendulumE1 5b *6
138Full SunE6 6b ** 
139SunburstE7 6c ***1
140Leaf StormE6 6b **6
141The Right InitialsE5 6a *1
142The Devil's ChairE5 6b  
143My ViolinE4 5c 1
144Crocodile Cracknone 6b  
146Half A NorthumberlandV0 5a *13
147CeilingV3 *5
148Little WonderlandV10 ***7
149RigpaV8+ 6c **21
150Northumberland WonderlandV7 ***53
151Welcome to the Woodf7C+ ***2
152Kyloe InV9 6c **19
153Northumberland LittleV9 **3
154Pete's RouteV6 6b 12
155Right-Hand RouteV4 6b **67
156One Inch PinchV7 3
157Fluid Dynamicsf7C+ ***3
158Little NorthumberlandV9 ***17
161SubtilitasV9 6c **4
162Subtilitas SSf8A ***1
163Bow TraverseV7 6b 11
165HawkeyeV7 13
166Buzz MeeksV4 6a 10
167Moon SpinnerV4 6a/b *12
168The Rampant ChopperV4 6a/b *15
169Sabred ShieldV4 1
170ReunificationV8+ *1
171Mega Tonne TravV0+ 5a *1
172TonkyV2 6a *1
173MincerV1 5b 1
174Bow ReverseV7 *1
175Nesscliffe Witch Project *V3 6a *1
176Dreams are Reality *E3 5c *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ed Booth

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went to give a friend a belay today on my piano, the good finger jug at the top felt loose an flexed abit is now totally gone. not sure on the date it came of but its in a thousand pieces at the bottom. Makes the top section on moves slightly tricky as its left crimps.
luke384 - 22/Jul/12
Any chance of checking & updating the position of the climbs? They're all over the shop! ;-)
Alex Thompson - 27/Feb/12
A superb crag for the competent onsight leader, with routes that are both accessible and adventurous, up strictly the most stunning of lines.
Fiend - 20/Jun/09
This crag has grown on me and is now my new best freind
smallerrich - 03/May/08
A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the souring aręte and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the “head-point”, I just can’t understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain’s climbing treasures.
Lee Proctor - 13/May/05
fecking hard sandstone climbing! Good for a little bouldering and from the right hand side of the highwaymans cave there is the opportunity to top rope. A pretty good place to stop on route/back home from Wales to the Midlands
lordy - 18/Feb/04