Climbs 171
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 116m a.s.l
Faces SW

Hazel Findlay on Yuckan II, E7 6b © marcus wootton photography

Crag features

A sandstone crag offering a variety of very impressive lines on rock that is never beyond suspicion. Recent new routes have been led although most climbers will use a toprope. There is plenty of bouldering and the crag is therefore reasonably popular with locals. Reaches a maximum height of 45m.The recommended routes include Red Square E1, Bruce Factor E3, Berlin Wall E7, My Piano E8, The Nuance E5, Gathering Sun E8, Marlene E4, Full Sun E6 and Leaf Storm E6.


There is also a new guidebook (2007) out for Nesscliffe alone, titled Nesscliffe.

Approach notes

Lies just above the A5 at the village of Nessliffe. Approach via the footpath opposite to The Old Three Pigeons pub.

Guidebooks

Went to give a friend a belay today on my piano, the good finger jug at the top felt loose an flexed abit is now totally gone. not sure on the date it came of but its in a thousand pieces at the bottom. Makes the top section on moves slightly tricky as its left crimps.
luke384 - 22/Jul/12
Any chance of checking & updating the position of the climbs? They're all over the shop! ;-)
Alex Thompson - 27/Feb/12
A superb crag for the competent onsight leader, with routes that are both accessible and adventurous, up strictly the most stunning of lines.
Fiend - 20/Jun/09
This crag has grown on me and is now my new best freind
smallerrich - 03/May/08
A stunning undervalued crag that has some of the very best lines anywhere in the UK. Just walk into the main quarry, look up at the souring aręte and corner climbs then take a sharp intake of breath. It is very easy to set up top ropes and work routes before the “head-point”, I just can’t understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain’s climbing treasures.
Lee Proctor - 13/May/05
fecking hard sandstone climbing! Good for a little bouldering and from the right hand side of the highwaymans cave there is the opportunity to top rope. A pretty good place to stop on route/back home from Wales to the Midlands
lordy - 18/Feb/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sunset Buttress 
2Rubbish 1
-
VB 2
3Brownie
-
V0- 2
4boulevard
-
V0 6
5Rubbish as Wellnone 4a 4
 Sally's Garden 
7Badgers Crackf6A **4
8BTBf6C *5
9Golden Sallyf7A ***1
10Joesef Merrick's pet badgerf7A **2
11The Ousted Lousef5  
 The Far Buttress (The Alley) 
13Airline
-
V2 4
14Big BabeVB **1
15Hang LooseE3 6b *4
16StatinsV5 *1
17CholesterolV11  
18Cholesterol Traversef7A *5
19Martians are HereV2 *4
20Twiggy
-
V1 26
21Hum VeeVB **5
22Fatty Basenone 3a 16
23BatmanHVS 5a **45
24In The Court of the SludgebaronE3 5c 4
25Fin'ally Makinly's GrooveE7 6c ** 
26Black Cat
-
V0 *36
27Stay CoolV8+ ***18
28SnapperV2 *27
29Supa Dupa FlyV1 27
30SizmaticV2 **26
31Free BanditsV4 *15
32BodyshockV1 *52
33past cruising
-
V1 **81
34Deep Slot DynoV3 **13
35Thread HoleV1 38
36The Ramp
-
V1 39
37Saboteur
-
V0- 46
38BooshV0 42
39Cig ArhhhV0 22
40Boston Shortsnone 5a *13
41Wolf Mother
-
VB **6
42MangaV1 11
 Main Wall area 
44DismissedE1 5c 1
45SlapperE1 5b 13
46PositiveE2 5b 4
47Sex and Casual Ties
-
E3 6a *15
48ScrabbleE5 6b 1
49Cones and CurrentE5 6b **94
50JumpE5 6b **31
51Marlene in the CornerE5 6a **18
52MarleneE4 6a ***69
53Marlene DirectE7 6c **14
54Trouble in Toytown
-
E5 6b ***70
55Gathering SunE7 6c ***45
56Bass Drum HeartE6 6b 2
57The NuanceE5 6b **23
58Nonsense
-
E5 6b **11
59Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix AnsE8 6c ***11
6010 O'Clock Saturday MorningE7 6c ***28
61Bird BrainE7 6b *2
62TombolaE7 6c **43
63My PianoE8 6c ***27
64Play MeE8 7a * 
65Red SquareE2 5b ***203
66Time For TeaE7 7a *11
67Notional TrustE5 6a 10
68Le CirqueE7 6c **3
69A Thousand Setting SunsE9 7a ***3
70Bruce FactorE3 5c **26
71Pot NoodleE3 6a *6
72KhanaanE6 6b 2
73Ramblin' DaysE2 5b **23
74Open Air
-
E3 5b **25
75Dreams are Reality
-
E3 5c *1
76InspirationE4 5c 5
77Man of ideasE3 5b 2
 Kynaston's Cave Area 
79Orange DisorderE5 6a 4
80Berlin Wall TraverseV8 *10
81Sharp SlapV2 13
82The Super Traverse8a+  
83The Highwayman's EscapeV5 24
84Jug U'La
-
V0+ **65
85Dead HeadV2 *94
86Sand Dish
-
V1 31
87Meat HooksV3 **56
88Did Nick Tick?V5 **12
89PlanchV6 15
90Il y a StaziE8 6c ***4
91Il y aV5 *25
92StaziV5 *13
93Berlin Wall EliminatesV8+  
94Berlin WallE8 6c **13
95Berlin start
-
V2 50
96Chipper SittingV6 *1
97Berlin's FallenV4 **81
98CUN-Trolf7A+ ***2
99Chipper
-
V2 26
100NicheV0 *12
101Spitting feathers
-
E1 4c 3
102Snail TrailV3 7
103STV5 *24
104UgawaV0 *11
105Wing Wallnone 4b 9
106Wing Wrapper
-
none 5a 14
107Zion
-
V0 18
108Nine Voltsnone 5b *8
109Shropshire Slappernone 5b **9
110Bonobo
-
V0 29
111Profit is DoomV2 *4
112Joys of Tom Tom
-
V1 19
113Scufflenone 5b *13
114Images
-
V2 **14
115Pock
-
V4 **12
116Ripple
-
V1 *25
117Immaculato
-
V3 **13
118Puntonone 5a *6
 Short Wall area 
120Dread
-
E2 5b 10
121Bob Mambo RabbitsE1 5c 5
122PantE1 5b *44
123Panting
-
V0- 18
124Crackle
-
V2 **16
125SnapE1 5c 31
126Short CrackVS 5a *94
127GroundedV2 17
128The Traverse
-
V2 12
 Main Quarry 
130ImaginationE4 6a ***30
131My SnorkelE6 6c **9
132Straight Talk
-
E3 5c **63
133Yukan IIE7 6b ***51
134Yukan III (Direct Finish)E7 6c **4
135Yuckan II.8; the fat boy finish
-
E7 6c *6
136The Nesscliffe MonsterE7 6c **2
137Johnny Red
-
E6 6b 5
138Rite Time
-
E7 6c **2
139Local Start for Local BoysE6 6b *1
140The Pit & the Pendulum (the full monty)E6 6a ***4
141The Pit and the PendulumE1 5b *6
142Full Sun
-
E6 6b ** 
143SunburstE7 6c ***1
144Leaf StormE6 6b **6
145The Right InitialsE5 6a *1
146The Devil's ChairE5 6b  
147My ViolinE4 5c 1
148Crocodile Cracknone 6b  
 Little Northumberland (The Terrace) 
150Half A NorthumberlandV0 *18
151CeilingV3 *6
152Nesscliffe Witch ProjectV3 *1
153Little WonderlandV10 ***7
154RigpaV9 **23
155Northumberland WonderlandV7 ***70
156Welcome to the Woodf7C+ ***2
157Kyloe InV7 **25
158Northumberland LittleV9 **4
159Pete's RouteV6 13
160Right-Hand RouteV4 **80
161One Inch PinchV7 3
162Fluid Dynamicsf7C+ ***3
163Little NorthumberlandV9 ***23
 Cad's Leap 
 Bow Wall 
166SubtilitasV9 **5
167Subtilitas SSf8A ***1
168Bow TraverseV7 15
 Hawk Wall 
170HawkeyeV7 16
171StreethawkV5  
172Buzz MeeksV4 12
173Moon SpinnerV4 *14
174The Rampant ChopperV4 *17
175Kneel Hook TraverseV4  
176Sabred ShieldV4 1
177ReunificationV8+ *1
178Mega Tonne TravV0+ *1
179TonkyV2 *1
180MincerV1 1
181Bow ReverseV7 *1
182Local RiteE8 6c ***1

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