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Ippikins Rock Shropshire, ENGLAND | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Guidebooks
Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer WrekinMC ![]()
Visited crag the weekend did some roped soloing, picked off some of the easier rock, will definatly return.
Supadeano86
Hi guys thinking of visiting this crag is it visable from the road/lay bys or is there some walking to do? Cheers.
Good local climb for me both trad and top roping options. Keep a look out for bird nests as there are a few at the moment so have to be sensible when choosing routes.
Quite a nice little crag although it would be nice if the person or persons unknown would stop using the hollow under one of the best belay trees as a toilet. At least go off into the woods some where!!!
Has recently been cleaned/cleared by Wrekin Mountaineering Club, thanks guys! The direct start to live evil is actually in the guide as 6a and is a bit polished. Great belays at the top and fairly good rock, although a bit greasy for limestone. Worth a visit if you're fed up of sandstone.
Led Odd Job VS, and Dead Good HVS, on a cold clear day in Nov 2006, both excellent climbs but suffering a little from neglect and underuse. Dead Good is especially enjoyable; pretty fair at HVS; long, steep and strenuous but always a good hold when you need it. Highly recomended!! The rest of the crag looks as though it may become more usable as the summer vegetation begins to die off, and as for the belay positions from the top of Wenlock Edge, simply superb.
There's some nice bouldery starts to some of the problems around the cave area. Currently working on a sit start at the back of the cave and monkeying out completeley horizontally then a massive stretch with an upside down dyno round the bulge!!!! Awesome, but I'm nowhere near good enough yet....British 6b??
My God, the start to Live Evil is somewhat polished and perhaps undergraded at 5c
Visited one evening in July 2006. There is a good fence running behind the main crag now, making for excellent belays. The pub is very funny about people parking outside; best stick to the lay bys. There was a fair bit of vegetation on the easier lines, but I enjoyed the visist and will be back to have a crack at Dead Good, on a an evening when I remember to pack my harness and boots....
Not a place to go when it is even vaguely wet, since it's situated in a steep wooded valley and even standing at the bottom in some places, can be challenging. The rock type also doesn't lend itself to climbing when damp and was a bit like trying to climb with skates on. The best place to park is in the last layby before you reach the pub as you can almost belay out of the car, which you might have to do on some routes as there is a lack anchor points on some parts at the top. However when dry the routes would be interesting as they are steep throughout their length but the rock look fragile in places, particularly at the bottom and probably explains the bolting on parts of the crag.
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