Ippikins Rock

Climbs 49 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Reaching a maximum height of 20m this outcrop provides a small concentration of generally steep routes which are really only of interest to local climbers. The pegs should be regarded as suspect but the threads are in a reasonable state. There are three separate areas:- Below the viewpoint/tarmaced layby Ivy Groove is a good Diff and Major's Wall a short sharp E1, below the viewpoint through the gate in front of the pub are Little Job HS and the more challenging Odd Job VS, on the main wall Dead Good HVS and Live Evil E3 are the most popular harder climbs.

Access notes
Approach via the B4371 from Much Wenlock. Parking is available in three individual layby's above the crag. Please do not park in the pub cark park. Climbing on Black Wall is restricted as part of the current access agreement, however the first five routes on Job Buttress can be climbed by agreement with the National Trust despite the sign on the stile saying no climbing.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks

Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MAJOR'S WALL 
2Easy UpM
3Red CaveHS
4Black WallS
5Ivy Was HereHS
6Left Wall (not)VD
7Ash WallD
8Crackin' OnVD
9Left EdgeHS 4b
10Major's WallE1 5a
11Major's Right HandHVS 5a
12Major GardeningHS 4b
13Ivy GrooveD
 MAIN AREA 
15Left RootD
16Right RootHS 4a
17True BlueHVS 4c
18Blue GrooveD
19The Little BullydogS
20Rose CornerS
21Dan the ManS
22Black SlabVS 4c
23Black DouglasHVS 5a
24Nothing ButVD
25The Whole TruthVS 4b
26Whole Truth - left finishHS
27The Black HoleE1 5b
28White HeatE2 5c *
29Dead HeatE1 5b
30Dead Heat AlternativeHVS 5a
31Dead GoodHVS 5a *
32Live EvilE3 5c **
33Coming up for the BendsE1 5a
34Never AgainS
35Teddy Knows TraverseHVS 5b
36The Full Monty TraverseHVS 5b
 NEW AREA 10 METRES RIGHT OF MAIN AREA 
38Lady GardeningVD
39Goodbye Mr BrownD
40Thank You Miss HughsonE1 5a
41Garlic PressHS
42Senza NomeVD
 BLACK WALL 
44ShindigE3 5c
45DiginE2 5b
 JOB BUTTRESS 
47Dead End JobHVS 5b
48Little jobHS 4b *
49Job SeekerHVS 5a
50Odd JobVS 4c *
51In Between JobsE1 5b
52Big JobHVS 5a
53Job For The BoysHS 4a
54Job StartVS 4c
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Majors wall, quiet over grown, not traffic, d enough. First 5 climbs difficulg to get to due to growth
Supadeano86 - 03/Sep/13
this crag area is know as wenlock edge you can access from pub car park but there are laybys a bit closer
theNocker - 11/Aug/13
just visited today, excellent top roping little walking to do you are on top of the cliff to start just walk round the side on easy paths plenty of trees to set up. going back regularly as of today.
theNocker - 11/Aug/13
Visited crag the weekend did some roped soloing, picked off some of the easier rock, will definatly return.
Supadeano86 - 22/Aug/12
Hi guys thinking of visiting this crag is it visable from the road/lay bys or is there some walking to do? Cheers.
Supadeano86 - 13/Aug/12
Good local climb for me both trad and top roping options. Keep a look out for bird nests as there are a few at the moment so have to be sensible when choosing routes.
Ad Shaw - 31/May/12
Has recently been cleaned/cleared by Wrekin Mountaineering Club, thanks guys! The direct start to live evil is actually in the guide as 6a and is a bit polished. Great belays at the top and fairly good rock, although a bit greasy for limestone. Worth a visit if you're fed up of sandstone.
smallerrich - 04/Mar/08
Led Odd Job VS, and Dead Good HVS, on a cold clear day in Nov 2006, both excellent climbs but suffering a little from neglect and underuse. Dead Good is especially enjoyable; pretty fair at HVS; long, steep and strenuous but always a good hold when you need it. Highly recomended!! The rest of the crag looks as though it may become more usable as the summer vegetation begins to die off, and as for the belay positions from the top of Wenlock Edge, simply superb.
Peakphil - 08/Nov/06
There's some nice bouldery starts to some of the problems around the cave area. Currently working on a sit start at the back of the cave and monkeying out completeley horizontally then a massive stretch with an upside down dyno round the bulge!!!! Awesome, but I'm nowhere near good enough yet....British 6b??
Peakphil - 24/Sep/06
My God, the start to Live Evil is somewhat polished and perhaps undergraded at 5c
Peter Ogden - 09/Sep/06
Visited one evening in July 2006. There is a good fence running behind the main crag now, making for excellent belays. The pub is very funny about people parking outside; best stick to the lay bys. There was a fair bit of vegetation on the easier lines, but I enjoyed the visist and will be back to have a crack at Dead Good, on a an evening when I remember to pack my harness and boots....
Snorkers McPorkers - 28/Jul/06
Not a place to go when it is even vaguely wet, since it's situated in a steep wooded valley and even standing at the bottom in some places, can be challenging. The rock type also doesn't lend itself to climbing when damp and was a bit like trying to climb with skates on. The best place to park is in the last layby before you reach the pub as you can almost belay out of the car, which you might have to do on some routes as there is a lack anchor points on some parts at the top. However when dry the routes would be interesting as they are steep throughout their length but the rock look fragile in places, particularly at the bottom and probably explains the bolting on parts of the crag.
Andrew Primrose - 27/Jan/03