Carreg y Byg

Climbs 38 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 317m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
A small and sheltered quarry which has proved popular with local climbers in recent years.Routes reach a maximum length of 20m on Great Buttress.The Sundance Wall area provides a concentration of the better routes with Crystal Crack VS, Sundance Wall HVS, Concave Wall E1 and Indecent Exposure E2 recommended. Other worthwhile routes include Forest Wall HVS, Fallen Birdman E1 and Trepidation E2.

Access notes
The quarry is located some 6.5km to the NW of Oswestry and about 1km north of the catchily named village Rhydycroseau. Known as Carreg y Big on the Ordnance Survey, once in the village follow the deadend road marked Tynydrain passed the first house on the left and at the bend in the road go through the field gate on the left and down a track a little way. The climbs are in the woods to your right as you enter the quarry. The owners seem very relaxed about climbing there even though you have to go through their gate and it seems to be on their land.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks

Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 CAVE AREA 
2Cave AreteD
3cave slabHVS 5a
4Cave WallVS 4c
 FOREST WALL 
6Forest Wall AreteVD
7Carreg y Byg KidE2 5b
8Physical LeverageE2 5c **
9Forest WallHVS 5b **
10Rowan Tree routeHS 4b
11Fossil CrackVS 4c *
12Head BangerVS 4c
 GREAT BUTTRESS 
14Fallen BirdmanE1 5b *
15TrepidationE2 5c **
 SUNDANCE WALL 
17crystal crackVS 4b **
18scoop routeHVS 5a *
19sundance wallHVS 5a **
20concave wallE1 5c **
21Indecent ExposureE2 5c **
22Intermediate ArêteVD
23Forrest Wall CornerVD
24Dandelion grooveHS
25Ticket To RideVS 4c
26Freckled HopeVS 5a
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
At first glance this was a disappointing venue. However on closer examination the routes are technical and sustained and I would go back. I have a feeling that due to the increasing tree cover and lack of use, this quarry will become less inviting as the years go by. However at the moment, if you're looking for a shady place to climb out of the sun, this a good option. The topouts are good with decent sized trees to belay from. Also the rock is good quality with almost no loose stuff even near the top. There's even a good pub at Selattyn, just up the road where the landlord was quite happy for us to carry on drinking whilst he took his dog out for a walk. We had a brief word with the owners who live in the house at the entrane to the quarry, and they seem quite happy for climbers to be there and even suggested a decent place to get a cup of tea afterwards.
Andrew Primrose - 21/Jun/04
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These details were last updated on 18/Sep/2010
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