Carreg y Byg Shropshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 38 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 317m a.s.l – Faces NE
A small and sheltered quarry which has proved popular with local climbers in recent years.Routes reach a maximum length of 20m on Great Buttress.The Sundance Wall area provides a concentration of the better routes with Crystal Crack VS, Sundance Wall HVS, Concave Wall E1 and Indecent Exposure E2 recommended. Other worthwhile routes include Forest Wall HVS, Fallen Birdman E1 and Trepidation E2.
The quarry is located some 6.5km to the NW of Oswestry and about 1km north of the catchily named village Rhydycroseau. Known as Carreg y Big on the Ordnance Survey, once in the village follow the deadend road marked Tynydrain passed the first house on the left and at the bend in the road go through the field gate on the left and down a track a little way. The climbs are in the woods to your right as you enter the quarry. The owners seem very relaxed about climbing there even though you have to go through their gate and it seems to be on their land.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)
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At first glance this was a disappointing venue. However on closer examination the routes are technical and sustained and I would go back. I have a feeling that due to the increasing tree cover and lack of use, this quarry will become less inviting as the years go by. However at the moment, if you're looking for a shady place to climb out of the sun, this a good option. The topouts are good with decent sized trees to belay from. Also the rock is good quality with almost no loose stuff even near the top. There's even a good pub at Selattyn, just up the road where the landlord was quite happy for us to carry on drinking whilst he took his dog out for a walk. We had a brief word with the owners who live in the house at the entrane to the quarry, and they seem quite happy for climbers to be there and even suggested a decent place to get a cup of tea afterwards.|
Andrew Primrose - 21/Jun/04