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These details were last updated on 07/Jun/2013

Llanymynech Quarry

Shropshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 117 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
An extensive quarry providing a wide range of routes to appeal to a variety of climbers.This includes multi-pitch classics,up to 55m in length,such as Blind Faith VS and Cream VS on Blind Faith Buttress.A range of single pitch trad classics on Black Wall such as Black Wall E2, Black Bastard E2 and Black Is Beautiful E4. Also,easier stuff for beginners in Cul-de-Sac Quarry from D to HS. More recent developments have resulted in a range of sport routes on Red Wall including Mussel-Bound 7a+, The Ancient Mariner 7a+, Dead Man's Fingers 7a, Subterranean Sidewalk 6c+ and Rapture of The Deep 7a. The Grid Iron Wall is now fully developed with a hard range of trad routes such as Incy Wincy Spider E5, Grid Iron E4 and Curfew E4. Also,highly recommended are This Won't Hurt E5, Nomad E5 and The Screaming Skull E5 on Nomad Wall. All of these trad routes have now been retro bolted.

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Clwyd Limestone (2005), (1995),
Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Southern Mountains6a *16
3The Screaming Skull7b ***5
4Nomad7a+ ***16
5Un-broken7a 14
6This Won't Hurt6c+ ***37
7Rabble Rouser6b+ *30
8Another Filling6b+ 7
9Root Treatment6c 7
10Pull 'em Out6a 16
11Dentine5+ 14
13Autoroute du soleil6a *12
14Journee de Merde6a **42
15La Ligne Vert6a+ *30
16La Ligne Vert Extended Finish6b *13
17Damn Foreigners6a 39
18Chaud show6a *40
19Troi milles voies5 62
20Frenchie5+ 71
21The Foreign Legion6a 31
22Too Much Dutch6a 28
23Herman the German6a+ 25
24FCUK6a+ *46
25Foreign muck6a+ 56
26TGV5 *41
27Who Fell in the Poubelle5 23
29Strawberry Tubin7b *51
30Jack the Smuggler7a 156
31Smack the Juggler6b *166
32Smack the Juggler Extension6b *39
33Juggler the Smuggler7a+ **1
34Sack the Strugglers6b+ *36
35A Night on the Town6c+ 13
36The Stringlers6a 90
37Gaza Strippers6b *78
38A Night Torchlight Parade6c **64
39Curfew6b+ *209
40Grid Iron6c *78
41Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub7a+ *22
42Incy Wincy Spider7a+ *11
43Hickory Dickory Dock7a 29
44Humpty Dumpty6c *53
45Up the Spout6b *84
46Bah Bah Black Sheep6a+ 118
47Coming of age6a 34
4849 And Counting6a *44
50Picking BlackheadsE5 6a *2
51While the Cat's AwayE4 6a **5
52Black WallE1 5b **37
53Black BastardE2 5c ***62
54Black Wall DirectE2 5c ***54
55Black is BeautifulE5 6b **13
56Churnet RunnersE4 6a *3
57ZeppelinE2 5b 3
59Crab Stick6c *89
60Lobster on the Loose7a *48
61Rapture of the Deep7a+ **43
62Subterranean Sidewalk7a **44
63Dead Man's Fingers7a **30
64The Ancient Mariner7a+ **20
 Climb nameGradex
65Shipperdy Doo-Dah7a+ 9
66The Deep6c+ **33
67I Saw Three Ships6c *14
68Ship Dip6c+ *15
69Mussel Bound7a *25
70Long John Codling7a *8
71Dead Man's Chest7a 1
72Clematis6b+ **27
73Poison Ivy7a+ 23
74The Day of the Triffids6b+ 15
76AlorsD 47
77Ca Va!VD 74
78Voila!VD 61
79merdeHS 4a 62
80Dirty Climb5+ 38
81Walkers Walk6a 11
82Dream of white horses not6a *80
83Sheila's Route6a 83
84Andy PandyE4 5c 1
85Flowery Pot6c+ 1
86Slobberlob7b *34
87Back-Bee Tubin8a 5
88Little Weed7c *8
89Spotty Dog7b *12
90Bill and Ben7c *3
91C'est Chaud!7c+  
92Saul's CrackVS 4c 15
94Blind FaithVS 4c 11
95RequiemE4 5b *1
97Better Lait than never6b 2
98CreamHVS 5a *7
99Screaming Dream6a+ 8
100Semi Skimmed6a+ 1
101Gold Top6b  
102All gone sour6b 1
103The cat that got the Cream6b+ 1
104Past Your Eyes6b **4
105Never rub another man's rhubarb6b  
106UHT6b+ *3
108Cowardly DeviantMS 2
109Bayonets Fixed6a+ 7
110Bayeux Tapestry6c+ 11
111Bay Watch6b+ 12
112Summer Bay Babe6a 26
113Bayonets Ready6b 18
114Bay City Stroller6a+ 39
115Bay Bee6a 20
116Welcome to the Bay6b 13
117Be my Baby6b+ 8
118Bye Bye Baby6b 9
119One Fine Bay6b 22
120Bay Leaf5+ 39
121Bay of Figs6a 29
122About A Bay6a 8
124Dawk HornerE1 5b/c *2
125Sasha the Basha7a **1
126Cul - De - Sac far wall1  
127Torsades de pointesVD 5 1
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Access notes
The quarry lies above the village of Pant,just off the A483.

Climbing at the quarry is subject to an access agreement.Please consult the guidebook for details of this agreement.

Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ed Booth

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Clearly UKC member TT999 needs to visit other areas of this all year round crag!! Not much in the way of dirty rock or intrusive veg' on Red, Black or Grid Iron Walls!
jim jones - 29/Dec/13

Was here two days ago. Dirty rock, plenty of plants and mud. Alors in the cul-de-sac area is pretty muddy, with loads of loose rock - unpleasant.
TT999 - 11/Jul/13

Most of the bolts on Foreigners Wall and Lower Nomad wall now stripped due to conservation concerns.
Dim Dringo - 03/Jun/10

A friend of mine once said, Ďsport climbing is kind of like having oral from another man, it feels great, until you look between your legs and realise itís kind of gayí. That friend has never been climbing at Llanymynech Quarry. As you turn the corner into the quarry youíre faced with the mammoth Foreigners wall, you almost wet yourself with the excitement. That is until you turn to see the 35m monster that lays dormant next to it, the Grid Iron Wall, now thats a wall just begging to be climbed. As far as first impressions go, this wall delivers a knockout first punch. Ok, so lets get down to the nitty gritty of what this wall has to offer. From the 5 of TGV to the 7B of strawberry Tubin, this wall has enough to offer to keep any over excited climbing monkey busy for the day, without the need for packing extra bananas. If your anything like me and cant help but eye up the tallest and coolest looking route around then youíll want to try the 6B+ of Curfew, this beast stretches all the way up the Grid Iron Wall, but be careful as you need a 60m rope to climb this bad boy, so donít get caught short. However, if youíve got balls of wood and need something less daunting then I suggest you try some of the nice of 5s on the Foreigners wall, these ones have some really nice easy moves that lull you into a false sense of security before testing you with the tricky crux of the route. One interesting feature of this place is how little climbing happens on it, itís still quite a dirty route, I lost count of the number of times I had to dust loose dirt off the rock before I could safely grab it. This is even more evident on the few trad routes in the quarry, placing gear becomes a challenge when most of the cracks are full of loose dirt and stones. The more climbing thatís done in this place, the better it will get and its true potential will be unlocked. This is not the kind of rock to take that novice friend of yours, unless they enjoy just watching. This is a place for those of you who have a little bit of climbing ability and enjoy pushing yourself to get that ĎI canít believe I climbed thatí feeling. You have to go check it out for yourself, I guarantee it will put a smile on your face.
samtheman22 - 26/Oct/09

The guide makes Llanymynech look like a hard-core venue suited only to extreme climbers. There are routes for mere mortals, however, in the further bays. We did Blind Faith on a Winter's day a couple of years back and really enjoyed it. Although it looks loose from below, there's no material on the ground below, which is encouraging, although you should climb with some caution. The route is very enjoyable, perhaps HVS 4c would be a fairer grade than VS 4b, although it depends on what you're used to - Swanage veterans will probably feel at home. Friends of mine climbed the Severe about 25 m to the left; it looked horrendous but they really enjoyed it!
Joe Lenham - 04/Feb/05