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These details were last updated on 07/Jun/2013

Llanymynech Quarry

Shropshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 118 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
An extensive quarry providing a wide range of routes to appeal to a variety of climbers.This includes multi-pitch classics,up to 55m in length,such as Blind Faith VS and Cream VS on Blind Faith Buttress.A range of single pitch trad classics on Black Wall such as Black Wall E2, Black Bastard E2 and Black Is Beautiful E4. Also,easier stuff for beginners in Cul-de-Sac Quarry from D to HS. More recent developments have resulted in a range of sport routes on Red Wall including Mussel-Bound 7a+, The Ancient Mariner 7a+, Dead Man's Fingers 7a, Subterranean Sidewalk 6c+ and Rapture of The Deep 7a. The Grid Iron Wall is now fully developed with a hard range of trad routes such as Incy Wincy Spider E5, Grid Iron E4 and Curfew E4. Also,highly recommended are This Won't Hurt E5, Nomad E5 and The Screaming Skull E5 on Nomad Wall. All of these trad routes have now been retro bolted.

Access notes
The quarry lies above the village of Pant,just off the A483.

Climbing at the quarry is subject to an access agreement.Please consult the guidebook for details of this agreement.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.1mm rain
Sun
18 °C
18 kph

0.5mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
14 kph

2.2mm rain
Cloudy
15 °C
15 kph

2.0mm rain
Cloudy
15 °C
14 kph

1.3mm rain
Cloudy
16 °C
11 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995),
Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 NOMAD WALL  
2Southern Mountains6a *17
3The Screaming Skull7b ***5
4Nomad7a+ ***16
5Un-broken7a 14
6This Won't Hurt6c+ ***37
7Rabble Rouser6b+ *30
8Another Filling6b+ 7
9Root Treatment6c 7
10Pull 'em Out6a 16
11Dentine5c 14
 FOREIGNERS WALL  
13Autoroute du soleil6a *12
14Journee de Merde6a **45
15La Ligne Vert6a+ *30
16La Ligne Vert Extended Finish6b *13
17Damn Foreigners6a 39
18Chaud show6a *40
19Troi milles voies5a 63
20Frenchie5c 72
21The Foreign Legion6a 31
22Too Much Dutch6a 28
23Herman the German6a+ 25
24FCUK6a+ *47
25Foreign muck6a+ 60
26TGV5a *41
27Who Fell in the Poubelle5a 24
 GRID IRON WALL  
29Strawberry Tubin7b *51
30Jack the Smuggler7a 167
31Smack the Juggler6b *172
32Smack the Juggler Extension6b *39
33Juggler the Smuggler7a+ **1
34Sack the Strugglers6b+ *37
35A Night on the Town6c+ 13
36The Stringlers6a 97
37Gaza Strippers6b *82
38A Night Torchlight Parade6c **67
39Curfew6b+ *219
40Grid Iron6c *84
41Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub7a+ *24
42Incy Wincy Spider7a+ *12
43Hickory Dickory Dock7a 33
44Humpty Dumpty6c *56
45Up the Spout6b *87
46Bah Bah Black Sheep6a+ 124
47Coming of age6a 37
4849 And Counting6a *45
 BLACK WALL  
50Picking BlackheadsE5 6a *2
51While the Cat's AwayE4 6a **5
52Black WallE1 5b **38
53Black BastardE2 5c ***62
54Black Wall DirectE2 5c ***55
55Black is BeautifulE5 6b **13
56Churnet RunnersE4 6a *3
57ZeppelinE2 5b 3
 RED WALL  
59Crab Stick6c *91
60Lobster on the Loose7a *48
61Rapture of the Deep7a+ **44
62Subterranean Sidewalk7a **45
63Dead Man's Fingers7a **30
64The Ancient Mariner7a+ **20
 Climb nameGradex
65Shipperdy Doo-Dah7a+ 9
66The Deep6c+ **35
67I Saw Three Ships6c *15
68Ship Dip6c+ *16
69Mussel Bound7a *25
70Long John Codling7a *9
71Dead Man's Chest7a 1
72Clematis6b+ **27
73Poison Ivy7a+ 24
74The Day of the Triffids6b+ 16
 CUL-DE-SAC QUARRY  
76AlorsD 49
77Ca Va!VD 80
78Voila!VD 64
79merdeHS 4a 63
80Dirty Climb5c 38
81Walkers Walk6a 11
82Dream of white horses not6a *82
83Sheila's Route6a 90
84Andy PandyE4 5c 1
85Flowery Pot6c+ 1
86Slobberlob7b *38
87Back-Bee Tubin8a 6
88Little Weed7c *8
89Spotty Dog7b *14
90Bill and Ben7c *3
91C'est Chaud!7c+  
92Saul's CrackVS 4c 15
 BLIND FAITH BUTTRESS  
94Bad Ass JengaE7 6c *1
95Blind FaithVS 4c 12
96RequiemE4 5b *1
 CREAM WALL  
98Better Lait than never6b 2
99CreamHVS 5a *7
100Screaming Dream6a+ 8
101Semi Skimmed6a+ 1
102Gold Top6b  
103All gone sour6b 1
104The cat that got the Cream6b+ 1
105Past Your Eyes6b **4
106Never rub another man's rhubarb6b  
107UHT6b+ *3
 BAY WALL  
109Cowardly DeviantMS 2
110Bayonets Fixed6a+ 7
111Bayeux Tapestry6c+ 11
112Bay Watch6b+ 12
113Summer Bay Babe6a 29
114Bayonets Ready6b 18
115Bay City Stroller6a+ 40
116Bay Bee6a 21
117Welcome to the Bay6b 14
118Be my Baby6b+ 8
119Bye Bye Baby6b 9
120One Fine Bay6b 22
121Bay Leaf5c 40
122Bay of Figs6a 33
123About A Bay6a 8
 OTHER AREAS  
125Dawk HornerE1 5b/c *2
126Sasha the Basha7a **1
127Cul - De - Sac far wall1  
128Torsades de pointesVD 5 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Love to visit again, think I got recommended a bad area, looked nice tough
TT999 - 10/May/14

Clearly UKC member TT999 needs to visit other areas of this all year round crag!! Not much in the way of dirty rock or intrusive veg' on Red, Black or Grid Iron Walls!
jim jones - 29/Dec/13

Was here two days ago. Dirty rock, plenty of plants and mud. Alors in the cul-de-sac area is pretty muddy, with loads of loose rock - unpleasant.
TT999 - 11/Jul/13

Most of the bolts on Foreigners Wall and Lower Nomad wall now stripped due to conservation concerns.
Dim Dringo - 03/Jun/10

A friend of mine once said, Ďsport climbing is kind of like having oral from another man, it feels great, until you look between your legs and realise itís kind of gayí. That friend has never been climbing at Llanymynech Quarry. As you turn the corner into the quarry youíre faced with the mammoth Foreigners wall, you almost wet yourself with the excitement. That is until you turn to see the 35m monster that lays dormant next to it, the Grid Iron Wall, now thats a wall just begging to be climbed. As far as first impressions go, this wall delivers a knockout first punch. Ok, so lets get down to the nitty gritty of what this wall has to offer. From the 5 of TGV to the 7B of strawberry Tubin, this wall has enough to offer to keep any over excited climbing monkey busy for the day, without the need for packing extra bananas. If your anything like me and cant help but eye up the tallest and coolest looking route around then youíll want to try the 6B+ of Curfew, this beast stretches all the way up the Grid Iron Wall, but be careful as you need a 60m rope to climb this bad boy, so donít get caught short. However, if youíve got balls of wood and need something less daunting then I suggest you try some of the nice of 5s on the Foreigners wall, these ones have some really nice easy moves that lull you into a false sense of security before testing you with the tricky crux of the route. One interesting feature of this place is how little climbing happens on it, itís still quite a dirty route, I lost count of the number of times I had to dust loose dirt off the rock before I could safely grab it. This is even more evident on the few trad routes in the quarry, placing gear becomes a challenge when most of the cracks are full of loose dirt and stones. The more climbing thatís done in this place, the better it will get and its true potential will be unlocked. This is not the kind of rock to take that novice friend of yours, unless they enjoy just watching. This is a place for those of you who have a little bit of climbing ability and enjoy pushing yourself to get that ĎI canít believe I climbed thatí feeling. You have to go check it out for yourself, I guarantee it will put a smile on your face.
samtheman22 - 26/Oct/09

The guide makes Llanymynech look like a hard-core venue suited only to extreme climbers. There are routes for mere mortals, however, in the further bays. We did Blind Faith on a Winter's day a couple of years back and really enjoyed it. Although it looks loose from below, there's no material on the ground below, which is encouraging, although you should climb with some caution. The route is very enjoyable, perhaps HVS 4c would be a fairer grade than VS 4b, although it depends on what you're used to - Swanage veterans will probably feel at home. Friends of mine climbed the Severe about 25 m to the left; it looked horrendous but they really enjoyed it!
Joe Lenham - 04/Feb/05