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Llanymynech Quarry Shropshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 113 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S
An extensive quarry providing a wide range of routes to appeal to a variety of climbers.This includes multi-pitch classics,up to 55m in length,such as Blind Faith VS and Cream VS on Blind Faith Buttress.A range of single pitch trad classics on Black Wall such as Black Wall E2, Black Bastard E2 and Black Is Beautiful E4. Also,easier stuff for beginners in Cul-de-Sac Quarry from D to HS. More recent developments have resulted in a range of sport routes on Red Wall including Mussel-Bound 7a+, The Ancient Mariner 7a+, Dead Man's Fingers 7a, Subterranean Sidewalk 6c+ and Rapture of The Deep 7a. The Grid Iron Wall is now fully developed with a hard range of trad routes such as Incy Wincy Spider E5, Grid Iron E4 and Curfew E4. Also,highly recommended are This Won't Hurt E5, Nomad E5 and The Screaming Skull E5 on Nomad Wall. All of these trad routes have now been retro bolted.
Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995),
Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
The quarry lies above the village of Pant,just off the A483.
Climbing at the quarry is subject to an access agreement.Please consult the guidebook for details of this agreement.
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ed Booth
Most of the bolts on Foreigners Wall and Lower Nomad wall now stripped due to conservation concerns.|
Dim Dringo - 03/Jun/10
A friend of mine once said, Ďsport climbing is kind of like having oral from another man, it feels great, until you look between your legs and realise itís kind of gayí. That friend has never been climbing at Llanymynech Quarry.
As you turn the corner into the quarry youíre faced with the mammoth Foreigners wall, you almost wet yourself with the excitement. That is until you turn to see the 35m monster that lays dormant next to it, the Grid Iron Wall, now thats a wall just begging to be climbed. As far as first impressions go, this wall delivers a knockout first punch.
Ok, so lets get down to the nitty gritty of what this wall has to offer. From the 5 of TGV to the 7B of strawberry Tubin, this wall has enough to offer to keep any over excited climbing monkey busy for the day, without the need for packing extra bananas. If your anything like me and cant help but eye up the tallest and coolest looking route around then youíll want to try the 6B+ of Curfew, this beast stretches all the way up the Grid Iron Wall, but be careful as you need a 60m rope to climb this bad boy, so donít get caught short.
However, if youíve got balls of wood and need something less daunting then I suggest you try some of the nice of 5s on the Foreigners wall, these ones have some really nice easy moves that lull you into a false sense of security before testing you with the tricky crux of the route.
One interesting feature of this place is how little climbing happens on it, itís still quite a dirty route, I lost count of the number of times I had to dust loose dirt off the rock before I could safely grab it. This is even more evident on the few trad routes in the quarry, placing gear becomes a challenge when most of the cracks are full of loose dirt and stones. The more climbing thatís done in this place, the better it will get and its true potential will be unlocked.
This is not the kind of rock to take that novice friend of yours, unless they enjoy just watching. This is a place for those of you who have a little bit of climbing ability and enjoy pushing yourself to get that ĎI canít believe I climbed thatí feeling. You have to go check it out for yourself, I guarantee it will put a smile on your face.
samtheman22 - 26/Oct/09
The guide makes Llanymynech look like a hard-core venue suited only to extreme climbers. There are routes for mere mortals, however, in the further bays. We did Blind Faith on a Winter's day a couple of years back and really enjoyed it. Although it looks loose from below, there's no material on the ground below, which is encouraging, although you should climb with some caution. The route is very enjoyable, perhaps HVS 4c would be a fairer grade than VS 4b, although it depends on what you're used to - Swanage veterans will probably feel at home.
Friends of mine climbed the Severe about 25 m to the left; it looked horrendous but they really enjoyed it!
Joe Lenham - 04/Feb/05