Llanymynech Quarry

Climbs 118 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
An extensive quarry providing a wide range of routes to appeal to a variety of climbers.This includes multi-pitch classics,up to 55m in length,such as Blind Faith VS and Cream VS on Blind Faith Buttress.A range of single pitch trad classics on Black Wall such as Black Wall E2, Black Bastard E2 and Black Is Beautiful E4. Also,easier stuff for beginners in Cul-de-Sac Quarry from D to HS. More recent developments have resulted in a range of sport routes on Red Wall including Mussel-Bound 7a+, The Ancient Mariner 7a+, Dead Man's Fingers 7a, Subterranean Sidewalk 6c+ and Rapture of The Deep 7a. The Grid Iron Wall is now fully developed with a hard range of trad routes such as Incy Wincy Spider E5, Grid Iron E4 and Curfew E4. Also,highly recommended are This Won't Hurt E5, Nomad E5 and The Screaming Skull E5 on Nomad Wall. All of these trad routes have now been retro bolted.

Access notes
Please adhere to the access agreements and seasons restrictions.

A seasonal restriction on climbing is in place on Black Walls and Red Walls to safeguard from disturbance legally protected bird species. This extends from March 1st until June 30th. Currently all routes on Foreigner Wall are permanently restricted and routes "La Ligne Vert" through to "FCUK" have had their bolts removed. All routes below the "Nomad Wall" have also have their bolts removed.

The areas known as “Cream Walls”, “Blind Faith Buttress” and “Bay Walls” are on land owned by Montgomery Wildlife Trust and have been identified as being particularly unstable. For this reason the Wildlife Trust cannot allow public access to this area, and signs and fencing are in place to ensure that the Wildlife Trust fully complies with its legal responsibility.

Climbers ignoring these signs fully accept the additional risks involved and that they are then on this land as trespassers. Wildlife Trust staff and volunteers will advise any members of the public that are seen within the fenced area of this fact. Uncivil responses will be noted and taken into consideration when reviewing any access agreements and therefore we ask members to respect any request to desist from climbing.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Clwyd Limestone (2005), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995),
Out of print: West Midlands Rock (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2Southern Mountains6a *
4The Screaming Skull7b ***
5Nomad7a+ ***
6Un-broken7a ***
7This Won't Hurt7a ***
8Rabble Rouser6b+ *
10Another Filling6b+
11Root Treatment6c
12Pull 'em Out6a
15Autoroute du soleil6a *
16Journee de Merde6a **
17La Ligne Vert6a+ *
18La Ligne Vert Extended Finish6b *
19Damn Foreigners6a
20Chaud show6a *
21Troi milles voies5a
23The Foreign Legion6a
24Too Much Dutch6a
25Herman the German6a+
26FCUK6a+ *
27Foreign muck6a+
28TGV5a *
29Who Fell in the Poubelle5a
31Strawberry Tubin7b *
32Jack the Smuggler7a *
33Juggler the Smuggler7a **
34Smack the Juggler6b *
35Smack the Juggler Extension6b *
36Sack the Strugglers6c *
37A Night on the Town6c+
38The Stringlers6a
39Gaza Strippers6b *
40A Night Torchlight Parade6c **
41Curfew6b+ *
42Grid Iron6c *
43Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub7a+ *
44Incy Wincy Spider7a+ *
45Hickory Dickory Dock7a
46Humpty Dumpty6c+ **
47Up the Spout6b *
48Bah Bah Black Sheep6a+
49Coming of age6a
5049 And Counting6a *
52Picking BlackheadsE5 6a *
53While the Cat's AwayE4 6a **
54Black WallE1 5b **
55Black BastardE2 5c ***
56Black Wall DirectE2 5c ***
57Black is BeautifulE5 6b **
58Churnet RunnersE4 6a *
59ZeppelinE2 5b
61Crab Stick6c *
62Lobster on the Loose7a *
63Rapture of the Deep7a+ **
64Subterranean Sidewalk7a **
65Dead Man's Fingers7a **
66The Ancient Mariner7a+ **
67Shipperdy Doo-Dah7a+
68The Deep6c+ **
69I Saw Three Ships6c+ **
70Ship Dip6c+ *
71Mussel Bound7a **
72Long John Codling7a *
73Dead Man's Chest7a **
74Clematis6b+ **
75Poison Ivy7a+ **
76The Day of the Triffids6b+
79Ca Va!VD
81merdeHS 4a
82Dirty Climb5c
83Walkers Walk6a
84Dream of white horses not6a *
85Sheila's Route6a
86Andy PandyE4 5c
87Flowery Pot6c+
88Saul's CrackVS 4c
90Slobberlob7b *
91Back-Bee Tubin8a
92Little Weed7c *
93Spotty Dog7b *
94Bill and Ben7c *
95C'est Chaud!7c+
97Bad Ass JengaE7 6c *
98Blind FaithVS 4c
99RequiemE4 5b *
101Better Lait than never6b
102CreamHVS 5a *
103Screaming Dream6a+
104Semi Skimmed6a+
105Gold Top6b
106All gone sour6b
107The cat that got the Cream6b+
108Past Your Eyes6b **
109Never rub another man's rhubarb6b
110UHT6b+ *
112Cowardly DeviantMS
113Bayonets Fixed6a+
114Bayeux Tapestry6c+
115Bay Watch6b+
116Summer Bay Babe6a
117Bayonets Ready6b
118Bay City Stroller6a+
119Bay Bee6a
120Welcome to the Bay6b
121Be my Baby6b+
122Bye Bye Baby6b
123One Fine Bay6b
124Bay Leaf5c
125Bay of Figs6a
126About A Bay6a
128Dawk HornerE1 5b/c *
129Sasha the Basha7a **
130Cul - De - Sac far wall1
131Torsades de pointesVD 5
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens

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Love to visit again, think I got recommended a bad area, looked nice tough
TT999 - 10/May/14
Clearly UKC member TT999 needs to visit other areas of this all year round crag!! Not much in the way of dirty rock or intrusive veg' on Red, Black or Grid Iron Walls!
jim jones - 29/Dec/13
Was here two days ago. Dirty rock, plenty of plants and mud. Alors in the cul-de-sac area is pretty muddy, with loads of loose rock - unpleasant.
TT999 - 11/Jul/13
Most of the bolts on Foreigners Wall and Lower Nomad wall now stripped due to conservation concerns.
Dim Dringo - 03/Jun/10
A friend of mine once said, ‘sport climbing is kind of like having oral from another man, it feels great, until you look between your legs and realise it’s kind of gay’. That friend has never been climbing at Llanymynech Quarry. As you turn the corner into the quarry you’re faced with the mammoth Foreigners wall, you almost wet yourself with the excitement. That is until you turn to see the 35m monster that lays dormant next to it, the Grid Iron Wall, now thats a wall just begging to be climbed. As far as first impressions go, this wall delivers a knockout first punch. Ok, so lets get down to the nitty gritty of what this wall has to offer. From the 5 of TGV to the 7B of strawberry Tubin, this wall has enough to offer to keep any over excited climbing monkey busy for the day, without the need for packing extra bananas. If your anything like me and cant help but eye up the tallest and coolest looking route around then you’ll want to try the 6B+ of Curfew, this beast stretches all the way up the Grid Iron Wall, but be careful as you need a 60m rope to climb this bad boy, so don’t get caught short. However, if you’ve got balls of wood and need something less daunting then I suggest you try some of the nice of 5s on the Foreigners wall, these ones have some really nice easy moves that lull you into a false sense of security before testing you with the tricky crux of the route. One interesting feature of this place is how little climbing happens on it, it’s still quite a dirty route, I lost count of the number of times I had to dust loose dirt off the rock before I could safely grab it. This is even more evident on the few trad routes in the quarry, placing gear becomes a challenge when most of the cracks are full of loose dirt and stones. The more climbing that’s done in this place, the better it will get and its true potential will be unlocked. This is not the kind of rock to take that novice friend of yours, unless they enjoy just watching. This is a place for those of you who have a little bit of climbing ability and enjoy pushing yourself to get that ‘I can’t believe I climbed that’ feeling. You have to go check it out for yourself, I guarantee it will put a smile on your face.
samtheman22 - 26/Oct/09
The guide makes Llanymynech look like a hard-core venue suited only to extreme climbers. There are routes for mere mortals, however, in the further bays. We did Blind Faith on a Winter's day a couple of years back and really enjoyed it. Although it looks loose from below, there's no material on the ground below, which is encouraging, although you should climb with some caution. The route is very enjoyable, perhaps HVS 4c would be a fairer grade than VS 4b, although it depends on what you're used to - Swanage veterans will probably feel at home. Friends of mine climbed the Severe about 25 m to the left; it looked horrendous but they really enjoyed it!
Joe Lenham - 04/Feb/05
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These details were last updated on 12/Aug/2014

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