Climbs 124
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Retrobolted route Clematis 6b+ © Mark Glaister

Crag features

An extensive quarry providing a wide range of routes to appeal to a variety of climbers.This includes multi-pitch classics,up to 55m in length,such as Blind Faith VS and Cream VS on Blind Faith Buttress.A range of single pitch trad classics on Black Wall such as Black Wall E2, Black Bastard E2 and Black Is Beautiful E4. Also,easier stuff for beginners in Cul-de-Sac Quarry from D to HS. More recent developments have resulted in a range of sport routes on Red Wall including Mussel-Bound 7a+, The Ancient Mariner 7a+, Dead Man's Fingers 7a, Subterranean Sidewalk 6c+ and Rapture of The Deep 7a. The Grid Iron Wall is now fully bolted with a hard range of sport routes such as Incy Wincy Spider 7a, Grid Iron 6c and Curfew 6b+. Also home to some of the best wall climbing in the UK is Nomad Wall.

Approach notes

Llanymynech Quarry runs parallel to the A483 that links the towns of Wrexham and Welshpool. Approaching from the north, follow the main A483 into the village of Pant and 100m after the Cross Guns pub, turn right into Underhill Lane. Follow the lane for 100m onto an unmade section which leads to the parking area after 50m. From the south, follow the main A483 through the village of Llanymynech and, just after the Pant village sign, turn left into Underhill Lane. From the parking area the quarry is easily gained along a path in around 5 minutes.

Restricted Access

A seasonal restriction on climbing is in place on Black Walls and Red Walls to safeguard from disturbance legally protected bird species. This extends from March 1st until June 30th. Currently all routes on Foreigner Wall are permanently restricted and routes "La Ligne Vert" through to "FCUK" have had their bolts removed. All routes below the "Nomad Wall" have also have their bolts removed.

The areas known as “Cream Walls”, “Blind Faith Buttress” and “Bay Walls” are on land owned by Montgomery Wildlife Trust and have been identified as being particularly unstable. For this reason the Wildlife Trust cannot allow public access to this area, and signs and fencing are in place to ensure that the Wildlife Trust fully complies with its legal responsibility.

Climbers ignoring these signs fully accept the additional risks involved and that they are then on this land as trespassers. Wildlife Trust staff and volunteers will advise any members of the public that are seen within the fenced area of this fact. Uncivil responses will be noted and taken into consideration when reviewing any access agreements and therefore we ask members to respect any request to desist from climbing.


Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks: (1995)

Out of print:
Climbing on grid iron easter and there was a large rock that came off on its own from the wall to the left and it landed close enough to shake us up a bit remember your helmets folks
jjsk8a - 07/Apr/15
Love to visit again, think I got recommended a bad area, looked nice tough
TT999 - 10/May/14
Clearly UKC member TT999 needs to visit other areas of this all year round crag!! Not much in the way of dirty rock or intrusive veg' on Red, Black or Grid Iron Walls!
jim jones - 29/Dec/13
Was here two days ago. Dirty rock, plenty of plants and mud. Alors in the cul-de-sac area is pretty muddy, with loads of loose rock - unpleasant.
TT999 - 11/Jul/13
Most of the bolts on Foreigners Wall and Lower Nomad wall now stripped due to conservation concerns.
Dim Dringo - 03/Jun/10
A friend of mine once said, Ďsport climbing is kind of like having oral from another man, it feels great, until you look between your legs and realise itís kind of gayí. That friend has never been climbing at Llanymynech Quarry. As you turn the corner into the quarry youíre faced with the mammoth Foreigners wall, you almost wet yourself with the excitement. That is until you turn to see the 35m monster that lays dormant next to it, the Grid Iron Wall, now thats a wall just begging to be climbed. As far as first impressions go, this wall delivers a knockout first punch. Ok, so lets get down to the nitty gritty of what this wall has to offer. From the 5 of TGV to the 7B of strawberry Tubin, this wall has enough to offer to keep any over excited climbing monkey busy for the day, without the need for packing extra bananas. If your anything like me and cant help but eye up the tallest and coolest looking route around then youíll want to try the 6B+ of Curfew, this beast stretches all the way up the Grid Iron Wall, but be careful as you need a 60m rope to climb this bad boy, so donít get caught short. However, if youíve got balls of wood and need something less daunting then I suggest you try some of the nice of 5s on the Foreigners wall, these ones have some really nice easy moves that lull you into a false sense of security before testing you with the tricky crux of the route. One interesting feature of this place is how little climbing happens on it, itís still quite a dirty route, I lost count of the number of times I had to dust loose dirt off the rock before I could safely grab it. This is even more evident on the few trad routes in the quarry, placing gear becomes a challenge when most of the cracks are full of loose dirt and stones. The more climbing thatís done in this place, the better it will get and its true potential will be unlocked. This is not the kind of rock to take that novice friend of yours, unless they enjoy just watching. This is a place for those of you who have a little bit of climbing ability and enjoy pushing yourself to get that ĎI canít believe I climbed thatí feeling. You have to go check it out for yourself, I guarantee it will put a smile on your face.
samtheman22 - 26/Oct/09
The guide makes Llanymynech look like a hard-core venue suited only to extreme climbers. There are routes for mere mortals, however, in the further bays. We did Blind Faith on a Winter's day a couple of years back and really enjoyed it. Although it looks loose from below, there's no material on the ground below, which is encouraging, although you should climb with some caution. The route is very enjoyable, perhaps HVS 4c would be a fairer grade than VS 4b, although it depends on what you're used to - Swanage veterans will probably feel at home. Friends of mine climbed the Severe about 25 m to the left; it looked horrendous but they really enjoyed it!
Joe Lenham - 04/Feb/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Bay Wall 
2Cowardly DeviantMS 2
3Bayonets Fixed6a+ 8
4Bayeux Tapestry6c+ 12
5Bay Watch6b+ *14
6Summer Bay Babe6a 35
7Bayonets Ready6b *20
8Bay City Stroller6a+ *45
9Bay Bee6a *25
10Welcome to the Bay6b *17
11Be my Baby6b+ 8
12Bye Bye Baby6b 10
13One Fine Bay6b 26
14Bay Leaf5c *45
15Bay of Figs6a *40
16About A Bay6a *10
 Blind Faith Buttress 
18Bad Ass JengaE7 6c *1
19Blind FaithVS 4c 15
20RequiemE4 5b *1
 Cream Wall 
22Better Lait than never6b 2
23CreamHVS 5a *7
24Screaming Dream6a+ 8
25Semi Skimmed6a+ 1
26Gold Top6b  
27All gone sour6b 1
28The cat that got the Cream6b+ 1
29Past Your Eyes6b **4
30UHT6b 3
31Never rub another man's rhubarb6b  
32Sasha the Basha7a *1
 Cult Wall 
34Culture and Boutique6a  
35Eau de Culture5c  
36No Name6a  
37The Cult5c  
38Culture Vulture5b  
39Culture Cryptic5b  
 Cul-De-Sac Quarry 
41AlorsD 53
42Ca Va!VD 90
43Voila!VD 66
44merdeHS 4a 71
45Dirty Climb5b 43
46Walkers Walk6a 11
47Dream of white horses not6a 89
48Sheila's Route5c 102
49Andy PandyE4 5c 1
50Flowery Pot6c+ 1
51Slobberlob7b 43
52Back-Bee Tubin8a **6
53Little Weed7c **9
54Spotty Dog7b *18
55Bill and Ben7b+ 3
56C'est Chaud!7c+ * 
57Saul's CrackVS 4c 16
 Southern Mountains 
59Southern Mountains6a *22
 Nomad Wall 
61The Screaming Skull7b ***15
62Nomad7a+ ***25
63Un-broken7a ***21
64This Won't Hurt7a ***49
65Rabble Rouser6b+ *39
66 Another Filling6b+ 7
67 Root Treatment6c *7
68 Pull 'em Out6a *16
69 Dentine5c 14
 Foreigner Wall 
71Journee de Merde6a+ 57
72Autoroute du soleil6a 13
73La Ligne Vert (Pitch 1)
6a+ *37
74La Ligne Vert6b *16
75Damn Foreigners6a 47
76Chaud show6a 48
77Troi milles voies5a 73
78Frenchie5c 82
79The Foreign Legion6a+ 35
80Too Much Dutch6a+ 35
81Herman the German6a+ 32
82FCUK5c 50
83Foreign muck6a 68
84TGV5c 42
85Who Fell in the Poubelle5a 25
 Grid Iron Wall 
87Strawberry Tubin7b **68
88Jack the Smuggler7a **223
89Juggler the Smuggler7a **3
90Smack the Juggler6b+ *210
91Smack the Juggler Extension6a *47
92Sack the Strugglers6c *44
93A Night on the Town6c+ 16
94The Stringlers6b 129
95Gaza Strippers6b+ **124
96A Night Torchlight Parade6c **82
97Curfew6b+ ***274
98Grid Iron6c ***111
99Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub7a+ *28
100Incy Wincy Spider7a+ **15
101Hickory Dickory Dock7a **36
102Humpty Dumpty6c+ **70
103Up the Spout6b *103
104Bah Bah Black Sheep6a+ *157
105Coming of age6a 44
10649 And Counting6a 54
 Black Wall 
108Picking BlackheadsE5 6a *2
109While the Cat's AwayE4 6a **7
110Black WallE1 5b **65
111Black BastardE2 5c ***72
112Black Wall DirectE2 5c ***58
113Black is BeautifulE5 6b ***16
114Churnet RunnersE4 6a *4
115ZeppelinE2 5b 5
 Red Wall 
117Crab Stick6c **117
118Lobster on the Loose7a **66
119Rapture of the Deep7a **58
120Subterranean Sidewalk6c+ ***56
121Dead Man's Fingers7a ***41
122The Ancient Mariner7a+ **33
123Shipperdy Doo-Dah7a+ *10
124The Deep6c+ **42
125I Saw Three Ships6c+ **18
126Ship Dip6c+ *19
127Mussel Bound7a+ ***30
128Long John Codling7a **11
129Dead Man's Chest7a **1
130Clematis6b+ *43
131Poison Ivy7a+ **32
132The Day of the Triffids6b *25
 Other Areas 
134Dawk HornerE1 5b/c *2
135Cul - De - Sac far wall
136Torsades de pointesVD 5 1

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