Whitestone Cliffe

Climbs 57 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Allegedly formed by a huge landslip early in the 18th century. Great views over the Vale of York. Can be loose on both a small and a large scale. Many routes depend upon pegs that are no longer in place. The crag has a big feel. Recommended routes: The Night Watch (VS 4b, one of the best routes in Yorkshire), Central Crack (HVS), Countdown Direct (HVS), Frigg (HS), Odin (HS).

Access notes
From the Park visitor centre at the top of Sutton Bank walk N along the scarp edge until the scrubland is left. The crag is now down to the L. For the main area, descend with care a steep grassy gully (abseil rope recommended). You can walk past the crag and drop down to walk back, but this approach is impractical during nettle season!
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks

Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1MasochistS 4a
2ConflictVS 4c
3Couldn't AgainHVS 5a
4ThrowbackVS 4c
5PygmalionHS 4b
6Wailing WallHVS 5a
7Last PostVS 4c **
8ClutcherVS 4c *
9BlitzkriegE2 5c **
10EspeekayE1 5b **
11Black MambaE2 5b **
12The PossumVS 4c
13Ying and YangHVS 5a **
14SassenachHVS 5a
15GaminHS 4a *
16Pillar of WindsHVS 5b
17YangtzeHS 4b
18ThyrusS 4a *
19The LeashVS 4c **
20Double TimeVS 4b
21Garbage GrooveD
22The TremblerVS 4c
23Garth's CausewayVD
24The NockerVS 5a
25OdinVS 4b **
26Odin DirectHVS 5a
27FriggHS 4b **
28Mars BarVS 5a
29Pie & Pea PillarHVS 5a
30GaucheVD *
31The SkabHVS 5b *
32The Skab Direct FinishE1 5b *
33The ClawE4 5c *
34CountdownHVS 5a
35Countdown DirectHVS 5a **
36Central CrackHVS 5a **
37The Night WatchVS 4b ***
38The Night Watch - Direct FinishE5 6b
39Bad ConceptHVS 5b
40Jurassic ScarpE3 5b **
41Backache CrackVS 4b
42AbsintheHS 4b
43DominoVS 4c
44One Half ShiftVS 4c
45HobbledehoyS 4a
46Ace of HeartsVD
47I seem to have left an important part of my brain somewhere...E3 5b
48ConfusionS 4a
49FinesseS 4a
50HumdrumVD
51Salmon Valley PinnacleHVS 4c *
52PenumbraD
53Oedipus Dogger Your MotherVS 4c
54Black BuffaloS 4a
55The MuleS 4a
56Manky EBS 4a
57ChameleonXS 6a/b ***
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Good free topo here courtesy of climbonline.co.uk: http://www.climbonline.co.u/PDFs/Whitestone%20Cliffe.pdf
snoop6060 - 02/Nov/11
The best crag i've ever been to in the UK. Unadulterated excitement and fear. Adventurous to put it mildly. The classics make for a pleasant weekend- the nightw*tch to name but one and the left hand side of the crag will give you an experience you'll never forget. (if you survive) there are still some gems to free climb, the traverse being only one- the only 1000ft route in the moors! enjoy!
GIPFEL - 10/Feb/09
Nightwatch & Central Crack are the justifiably popular routes: they are comparatively safe and enjoyable. Once climbed Nightwatch in dense mist - could have been in the Dolomites. Also try Odin & Frigg: nice climbing; plenty of gear. For a Freudian, Back-to-the-womb experience go for Clutcher [VS 4C]: no gear for 30ft. Scary to find that, as you thrutch up the dark cleft, you can see daylight at the opposite end of the 'womb', about 20ft away on your right - you are thrusting outwards on a semi-detached wall which may, one day, detach itself from the main crag. The rounded boulders embedded in the limestone give an extra frissance to the whole Freudian thing! Caress & enjoy.
allmag - 16/Aug/07
Want an amazing Cliff, so many different ways to die. must be the best training for rock climbing in the alps. OK the holds can break and can you can drop the odd rock on your belayer, but some amazing climbs, and you can feel the history as some routes have only had a few repeats since been put up.
IanJackson - 05/Jun/06
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These details were last updated on 30/Aug/2011
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