Dovestones Edge

Climbs 101 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Lots of middle grade routes on classic mountain grit in a superbly exposed setting. Best routes include Central Tower (VD), Answer Crack (HVD), Layback Crack (HS), Nasal Buttress (HS 4b), Mammoth Slab (VS 4c) and Fedie's Folly (E1 5b). THE route of the crag is undoubtedly The Hanging Crack, at E2 5b a well-protected but severe test of jamming skills, stength and stamina. Go to it!

Access notes
From the car park at Dovestone's Reservoir (SE 014034)follow the track past the Yachting Clubhouse to Chew Brook Bridge. A track leads from here below the large Dovestone's Quarries to the edge in about 30 min. Named Ashway Rocks on the Peak District Touring Map.

Guidebooks
Over the Moors (2012), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Chockstone GullyI/II 1
2Route 1HS 4b 26
3Grotto *VD 1
4Route IIHS 4b *22
5Slab and SaddleD 42
6StirrupS 4a 29
7Double OverhangsHVS 5b 4
8Cooper's CrackS 4b *81
9'C' ClimbD 31
10Sea RouteVS 4c *12
11Green CrackVD 4
12Wrinkled ButtressVD *88
13Wrinkled WallHVD 7
14Curving CrackVD 14
15DanegeldE1 5b *13
16The Tax CollectorE2 5c 3
17Nobbly WallHVD 49
18The Direct RouteVD 62
19The Director's RouteHVD 26
20The MoocherVS 4b 11
21EyebrowS 4a 10
22Nasal ButtressHS 4b ***229
23Nasal Buttress Right HandVS 4c **10
24Eight Hours!E1 5a 2
25The ChangelingHS 4b 3
26Crack and ChimneyM *30
27PalpitationE1 5a *6
28Mother's PrideE1 5b 1
29Capstone ChimneyM *34
30Splintered ButtressD 10
31Kitten CracksS 4b 1
32Square ChimneyD 20
33Central TowerVD **161
34Tower AreteVS 4c *28
35Left EmbrasureVS 4b **59
36Right EmbrasureVS 4c *9
37Matchstick CrackS 4a 55
38MaggieHVS 5a *26
39Grim WallVS 5a 10
40Peat ClimbVD 6
41Noddy's WallHS 4b *67
42Swan CrackHVD *79
43Swan DownVS 4c 3
44Gnomes' WallVS 4b 1
45Rib and WallS 4a 23
46Mammoth SlabVS 4c **33
47Ferdie's FollyE1 5b **10
48Dust StormE2 5b *2
49'K' ClimbVS 4b 1
50KaytooVS 4c 6
51AsinineHVS 6a *2
52June ClimbD *40
53Austin MaxiE2 5c 6
54June WallVS 5a *16
55June RidgeS 4a *14
56DogsbodyE2 5c 1
57Rubber-faced AreteVS 4c 1
58Rubber-faced WallVD 6
59December AreteHVS 5b *8
60Layback CrackHS 4b **152
61Friction AddictionE1 5c *14
62Slipoff SlabVS 4b *50
63Double Time CrackHVD 2
64Peabodies' DilemmaVD 2
65Left ChimneyVD 7
66Right ChimneyVD 4
67'Owd on AreteHS 4b *14
68Answer CrackHVD ***255
69Question TimeE2 5c *6
70Question MarkHVD *97
71Full StopE1 5a *16
72Third TripletD *18
73Yellow CrackHVS 5b *20
74Second TripletD 8
75Loose EndVS 5a *32
76First TripletS 4a *50
77ScarfaceVS 4c 3
78Tower RidgeVD *47
79Silly AreteS 4a **8
80The JesterS 4a *13
81Spurt of SpurtsE2 5b * 
82Hymen the TactlessE5 6c *** 
83Hanging CrackE2 5b ***37
84King Tut's Wah Wah HutE5 6b **1
85The GibbetE3 5c *2
86The CatwalkVS 4a **11
87StrappadoE4 6b * 
88Blank CrackS 4b  
89Long RidgeVD 4
90Jam and JugS 4b  
91Toadstool RibHVS 5a  
92Grey ChimneyHVD 1
93Pullman ChimneyVD 1
94Pullman OverhangHVS 5b  
95Pullman CrackVD 1
96Curving AreteHVS 4c *3
97Platform Route OneHVS 5a  
98Platform Route TwoVS 4c  
99The LeafHVD *2
100The SlotHS 4b 1
101The FlakeM 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ste_d

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Very green the day after rain in August. Shame as it made several of the routes I fancied quite slimy. The steep last 10 mins certainly warms you up and would recommend leaving until the evening. Answer Crack and Nasal Buttress were good and will try Mammoth Buttress when not Kermit-like!
eldre070 - 26/Aug/13
Had a great day- avoiding the forecast heat.It was particularly pleasant late pm when the sun came around and gave some gentle warmth- abit gritty in places we just climbed some nice easy lines- a great chilled day out.
bobpilgrem - 23/May/12
Had an excellent day. We had the whole crag to ourselves. Some really excellent low grade climbs. Very grippy no real polishing!
flapjack_franky - 06/Sep/10
Excellent rock, nice and dry even after a full day of rain beforehand. The slog up the hill is a lung burster for the unfit. The best approach from the car park is to stay on the left hand side of the streamway and follow it up to the tunnel, cross the bridge then follow the path to the stile before heading straight up. I'll never complain about the walk up to Wimberry again after this.
RankAmateur - 22/Jun/09
This is your secret playground as it is not uncommon to have the whole crag to yourself. Gets good sun, great crag for a full day or evenings bouldering/soloing. As with most moorland grit, treat the walk in as a warm up. Fine views and nice sunsets. Good rough natural grit. For fun give the left to right girdle traverse a go, HVS 5a "Whalebone" a fine summers evening solo! - followed by a few well earned pints down at the Clarence!
Phil Davies - 17/Feb/05
Why on earth do so few people climb here? It's great! The walk in isn't that bad really.
Steff - 05/Sep/04
Despite getting the evening sun, much of it is fairly green at the moment, perhaps due to the pathetic summer this year. Some of the slabs could do with a good brush. An alternative approach for E1 climbers would be to slog up (what did you expect, this is Chew...) to the Duckstone and tick The Jug, a good committing roof climb, en route, before bouncing merrily around the moor to the top of Dovestones.
Fiend - 02/Sep/04
Dovestones Edge - the link to BMC access notes seems to link to another crag, not Dovestones Edge.
Nick Taylor - 10/Sep/03
This crag is accessible without a car by bus from Manchester. The moderately long walk-in seems to put people off, which is fine by me. Had the crag to myself one Sunday whereas I\'d guess the eastern edges were a tad busier! The rock is a bit dirty in places on the easier grooves. And watch out for the loose block on the Severe 4b (forgotten the name) at the far left of the crag. Otherwise excellent.
Rob - 25/Mar/02