Dovestones Edge

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Lots of middle grade routes on classic mountain grit in a superbly exposed setting. Best routes include Central Tower (VD), Answer Crack (HVD), Layback Crack (HS), Nasal Buttress (HS 4b), Mammoth Slab (VS 4c) and Fedie's Folly (E1 5b). THE route of the crag is undoubtedly The Hanging Crack, at E2 5b a well-protected but severe test of jamming skills, stength and stamina. Go to it!

Access notes
From the car park at Dovestone's Reservoir (SE 014034)follow the track past the Yachting Clubhouse to Chew Brook Bridge. A track leads from here below the large Dovestone's Quarries to the edge in about 30 min. Named Ashway Rocks on the Peak District Touring Map.

Over the Moors (2012), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Chockstone GullyI/II 1
2Route 1HS 4b 25
3Route IIHS 4b *21
4Slab and SaddleD 41
5StirrupS 4a 28
6Double OverhangsHVS 5b 4
7Cooper's CrackS 4b *77
8'C' ClimbD 30
9Sea RouteVS 4c *12
10Green CrackVD 4
11Wrinkled ButtressVD *87
12Wrinkled WallHVD 7
13Curving CrackVD 13
14DanegeldE1 5b *13
15The Tax CollectorE2 5c 3
16Nobbly WallHVD 48
17The Direct RouteVD 61
18The Director's RouteHVD 26
19The MoocherVS 4b 11
20EyebrowS 4a 10
21Nasal ButtressHS 4b ***223
22Nasal Buttress Right HandVS 4c **10
23Eight Hours!E1 5a 2
24The ChangelingHS 4b 3
25Crack and ChimneyM *29
26PalpitationE1 5a *6
27Mother's PrideE1 5b 1
28Capstone ChimneyM *33
29Splintered ButtressD 10
30Kitten CracksS 4b 1
31Square ChimneyD 19
32Central TowerVD **160
33Tower AreteVS 4c *28
34Left EmbrasureVS 4b **58
35Right EmbrasureVS 4c *9
36Matchstick CrackS 4a 54
37MaggieHVS 5a *26
38Grim WallVS 5a 10
39Peat ClimbVD 6
40Noddy's WallHS 4b *65
41Swan CrackHVD *79
42Swan DownVS 4c 3
43Gnomes' WallVS 4b 1
44Rib and WallS 4a 23
45Mammoth SlabVS 4c **32
46Ferdie's FollyE1 5b **9
47Dust StormE2 5b *1
48'K' ClimbVS 4b 1
49KaytooVS 4c 6
50AsinineHVS 6a *2
51June ClimbD *39
52Austin MaxiE2 5c 5
53June WallVS 5a *16
54June RidgeS 4a *14
55DogsbodyE2 5c  
56Rubber-faced AreteVS 4c 1
57Rubber-faced WallVD 6
58December AreteHVS 5b *8
59Layback CrackHS 4b **148
60Friction AddictionE1 5c *13
61Slipoff SlabVS 4b *48
62Double Time CrackHVD 2
63Peabodies' DilemmaVD 2
64Left ChimneyVD 7
65Right ChimneyVD 4
66'Owd on AreteHS 4b *14
67Answer CrackHVD ***245
68Question TimeE2 5c *6
69Question MarkHVD *92
70Full StopE1 5a *14
71Third TripletD *15
72Yellow CrackHVS 5b *18
73Second TripletD 8
74Loose EndVS 5a *30
75First TripletS 4a *49
76ScarfaceVS 4c 3
77Tower RidgeVD *45
78Silly AreteS 4a **8
79The JesterS 4a *13
80Spurt of SpurtsE2 5b * 
81Hymen the TactlessE5 6c *** 
82Hanging CrackE2 5b ***35
83King Tut's Wah Wah HutE5 6b **1
84The GibbetE3 5c *2
85The CatwalkVS 4a **11
86StrappadoE4 6b * 
87Blank CrackS 4b  
88Long RidgeVD 3
89Jam and JugS 4b  
90Toadstool RibHVS 5a  
91Grey ChimneyHVD 1
92Pullman ChimneyVD 1
93Pullman OverhangHVS 5b  
94Pullman CrackVD 1
95Curving AreteHVS 4c *3
96Platform Route OneHVS 5a  
97Platform Route TwoVS 4c  
98The LeafHVD *2
99The SlotHS 4b 1
100The FlakeM 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Very green the day after rain in August. Shame as it made several of the routes I fancied quite slimy. The steep last 10 mins certainly warms you up and would recommend leaving until the evening. Answer Crack and Nasal Buttress were good and will try Mammoth Buttress when not Kermit-like!
eldre070 - 26/Aug/13
Had a great day- avoiding the forecast heat.It was particularly pleasant late pm when the sun came around and gave some gentle warmth- abit gritty in places we just climbed some nice easy lines- a great chilled day out.
bobpilgrem - 23/May/12
Had an excellent day. We had the whole crag to ourselves. Some really excellent low grade climbs. Very grippy no real polishing!
flapjack_franky - 06/Sep/10
Excellent rock, nice and dry even after a full day of rain beforehand. The slog up the hill is a lung burster for the unfit. The best approach from the car park is to stay on the left hand side of the streamway and follow it up to the tunnel, cross the bridge then follow the path to the stile before heading straight up. I'll never complain about the walk up to Wimberry again after this.
RankAmateur - 22/Jun/09
This is your secret playground as it is not uncommon to have the whole crag to yourself. Gets good sun, great crag for a full day or evenings bouldering/soloing. As with most moorland grit, treat the walk in as a warm up. Fine views and nice sunsets. Good rough natural grit. For fun give the left to right girdle traverse a go, HVS 5a "Whalebone" a fine summers evening solo! - followed by a few well earned pints down at the Clarence!
Phil Davies - 17/Feb/05
Why on earth do so few people climb here? It's great! The walk in isn't that bad really.
Steff - 05/Sep/04
Despite getting the evening sun, much of it is fairly green at the moment, perhaps due to the pathetic summer this year. Some of the slabs could do with a good brush. An alternative approach for E1 climbers would be to slog up (what did you expect, this is Chew...) to the Duckstone and tick The Jug, a good committing roof climb, en route, before bouncing merrily around the moor to the top of Dovestones.
Fiend - 02/Sep/04
Dovestones Edge - the link to BMC access notes seems to link to another crag, not Dovestones Edge.
Nick Taylor - 10/Sep/03
This crag is accessible without a car by bus from Manchester. The moderately long walk-in seems to put people off, which is fine by me. Had the crag to myself one Sunday whereas I\'d guess the eastern edges were a tad busier! The rock is a bit dirty in places on the easier grooves. And watch out for the loose block on the Severe 4b (forgotten the name) at the far left of the crag. Otherwise excellent.
Rob - 25/Mar/02