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These details were last updated on 14/Apr/2010

Dovestones Edge

Greater Manchester, ENGLAND

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 450m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Lots of middle grade routes on classic mountain grit in a superbly exposed setting. Best routes include Central Tower (VD), Answer Crack (HVD), Layback Crack (HS), Nasal Buttress (HS 4b), Mammoth Slab (VS 4c) and Fedie's Folly (E1 5b). THE route of the crag is undoubtedly The Hanging Crack, at E2 5b a well-protected but severe test of jamming skills, stength and stamina. Go to it!

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Over the Moors (2012), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Chockstone GullyI/II 1
2Route 1HS 4b 23
3Route IIHS 4b *13
4Slab and SaddleD 30
5StirrupS 4a 19
6Double OverhangsHVS 5b 3
7Cooper's CrackS 4b *58
8'C' ClimbD 21
9Sea RouteVS 4c *11
10Green CrackVD 4
11Wrinkled ButtressVD *69
12Wrinkled WallHVD 4
13Curving CrackVD 13
14DanegeldE1 5b *10
15The Tax CollectorE2 5c 3
16Nobbly WallHVD 35
17The Direct RouteVD 51
18The Director's RouteHVD 21
19The MoocherVS 4c 9
20EyebrowS 4a 9
21Nasal ButtressHS 4b ***169
22Eight Hours!E1 5a  
23The ChangelingHS 4b 2
24Crack and ChimneyM *23
25PalpitationE1 5a *3
26Mother's PrideE1 5b 1
27Capstone ChimneyM *24
28Splintered ButtressD 6
29Kitten CracksS 4b 1
30Square ChimneyD 16
31Central TowerVD **128
32Tower AreteVS 4c *24
33Left EmbrasureVS 4b **39
34Right EmbrasureVS 4c *7
35Matchstick CrackS 4a 36
36MaggieHVS 5a *23
37Grim WallVS 5a 7
38Peat ClimbVD 6
39Noddy's WallHS 4b *48
40Swan CrackHVD *55
41Swan DownVS 4c 3
42Gnomes' WallVS 4b  
43Rib and WallS 4a 14
44Mammoth SlabVS 4c **27
45Ferdie's FollyE1 5b **7
46Dust StormE2 5b *1
47'K' ClimbVS 4b 1
48KaytooVS 4c 5
49AsinineHVS 6a *1
 Climb nameGradex
50June ClimbD *29
51Austin MaxiE2 5c 5
52June WallVS 5a *16
53June RidgeS 4a *14
54DogsbodyE2 5c  
55Rubber-faced AreteVS 4c 1
56Rubber-faced WallVD 6
57December AreteHVS 5b *6
58Layback CrackHS 4b **106
59Friction AddictionE1 5c *10
60Slipoff SlabVS 4b *34
61Double Time CrackHVD 2
62Peabodies' DilemmaVD 2
63Left ChimneyVD 6
64Right ChimneyVD 4
65'Owd on AreteHS 4b *12
66Answer CrackHVD ***176
67Question TimeE2 5c *2
68Question MarkHVD *71
69Full StopE1 5a *11
70Third TripletD *13
71Yellow CrackHVS 5b *10
72Second TripletD 8
73Loose EndVS 5a *21
74First TripletS 4a *42
75ScarfaceVS 4c 2
76Tower RidgeVD *33
77Silly AreteS 4a **5
78The JesterS 4a *10
79Spurt of SpurtsE2 5b * 
80Hymen the TactlessE5 6c *** 
81Hanging CrackE2 5b ***21
82The GibbetE3 5c *1
83The CatwalkVS 4a **8
84StrappadoE4 6b * 
85Blank CrackS 4b  
86Long RidgeVD 2
87Jam and JugS 4b  
88Toadstool RibHVS 5a  
89Grey ChimneyHVD 1
90Pullman ChimneyVD 1
91Pullman OverhangHVS 5b  
92Pullman CrackVD 1
93Curving AreteHVS 4c *1
94Platform Route OneHVS 5a  
95Platform Route TwoVS 4c  
96The LeafHVD *2
97The SlotHS 4b 1
98The FlakeM 2
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Access notes
From the car park at Dovestone's Reservoir (SE 014034)follow the track past the Yachting Clubhouse to Chew Brook Bridge. A track leads from here below the large Dovestone's Quarries to the edge in about 30 min. Named Ashway Rocks on the Peak District Touring Map.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ste_d ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Had a great day- avoiding the forecast heat.It was particularly pleasant late pm when the sun came around and gave some gentle warmth- abit gritty in places we just climbed some nice easy lines- a great chilled day out.
bobpilgrem ? - 23/May/12

Had an excellent day. We had the whole crag to ourselves. Some really excellent low grade climbs. Very grippy no real polishing!
flapjack_franky ? - 06/Sep/10

Excellent rock, nice and dry even after a full day of rain beforehand. The slog up the hill is a lung burster for the unfit. The best approach from the car park is to stay on the left hand side of the streamway and follow it up to the tunnel, cross the bridge then follow the path to the stile before heading straight up. I'll never complain about the walk up to Wimberry again after this.
RankAmateur ? - 22/Jun/09

This is your secret playground as it is not uncommon to have the whole crag to yourself. Gets good sun, great crag for a full day or evenings bouldering/soloing. As with most moorland grit, treat the walk in as a warm up. Fine views and nice sunsets. Good rough natural grit. For fun give the left to right girdle traverse a go, HVS 5a "Whalebone" a fine summers evening solo! - followed by a few well earned pints down at the Clarence!
Phil Davies - 17/Feb/05

Why on earth do so few people climb here? It's great! The walk in isn't that bad really.
Steff - 05/Sep/04

Despite getting the evening sun, much of it is fairly green at the moment, perhaps due to the pathetic summer this year. Some of the slabs could do with a good brush. An alternative approach for E1 climbers would be to slog up (what did you expect, this is Chew...) to the Duckstone and tick The Jug, a good committing roof climb, en route, before bouncing merrily around the moor to the top of Dovestones.
Fiend - 02/Sep/04

Dovestones Edge - the link to BMC access notes seems to link to another crag, not Dovestones Edge.
Nick Taylor - 10/Sep/03

This crag is accessible without a car by bus from Manchester. The moderately long walk-in seems to put people off, which is fine by me. Had the crag to myself one Sunday whereas I\'d guess the eastern edges were a tad busier! The rock is a bit dirty in places on the easier grooves. And watch out for the loose block on the Severe 4b (forgotten the name) at the far left of the crag. Otherwise excellent.
Rob - 25/Mar/02