Climbs 183
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Rake's Buttress 
2Offspringf6A 2
3AuntiesVS 5a 82
4Rake's ProgressD 205
5Uncle'sVS 4c *168
6Mother's Little Helper
S 4a 92
7Straight and NarrowVD 237
M 77
9Moderator (Nose start)
D 42
10Direct Variation
HVS 5b 25
11Easy Stages
M 88
 Oriel Wall 
13Left Side Groove
S 31
14Left Side
S 4a 84
15The Mounting Block
HD 96
16The Nutcrackers
D 95
17The Nutcrackers WallHVD 45
18Gentle SlabM 88
19Spiral Stairs
VD 72
20Spiral Stairs Left HandD 6
 Parson's Nose Buttress 
22Explode *f6A+ 1
23Parson's ChimneyM 126
24Hand JiveVS 5b 113
25Left Edge *f5 2
26Jiver's WallVS 4c *218
27Jivers Sit Start *f5+ 1
28Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 21
29Jivers Wall Traverse *f6B+ *2
30Bop RouteS 4a *218
31BoppedVS 5a 63
32Bop Arete Sit Start *f6A 1
33Zoot RouteVD **269
34The NoseHVS 5b 77
 Scot Buttress 
36The Neb Buttress
M 33
37The Neb
HVS 5b 15
38The VallumS 4a 232
39Hadrian's WallHS 4b *264
40Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 203
41Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *148
42Nook and CrannyS 4a *163
43Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *170
44Highland FlingE1 5b 33
45Bawbee CrackHVD *202
46Bloomin heatherMVS 4c 5
47Blaeberry CrackD *361
48Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 232
49Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 14
50Blaeberry ButtressM *153
51Blaeberry Buttress Variation
HD 34
52Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *9
 Romulus and Remus 
54Wolf Wall Corner
D 36
55Wolf WallS 4b *224
56Wolf WhistleHS 4b *242
57Woodpecker WallS 4a **380
58RomulusHS 4b *212
59Tiber ChimneyM 83
60Decline and Fall
VS 4b 31
61Tiber WallE1 5c 38
62RemusVS 4c *129
63Remus - Right Hand Finish
VS 5a 25
 The Prow Area 
65HalyardsVD 152
66Little by LittleVD 4a *179
67Eliminate WallHVS 5a 21
68Main Mast CrackS 4b *157
69StewkerE1 5c *161
70ProwessE3 6b 16
71The ProwE1 5a **178
72Galley ChimneyM 107
73The HeadsHS 4b 166
74The BulkheadVS 4c *247
75The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 5
76The KeelHVS 5a 37
77Plimsoll Line
none 4c 21
 Adam and Eve 
79Jill's DelightD 154
80Right Hand SideD 120
81EvensVS 4c *104
82Curving AreteVS 4c *72
E1 5c 7
84Jack's DelightVS 4b *181
85EveE1 5a **134
86Eve - Right HandE2 5b *70
87Hob NobsE4 6a 5
88SerpentE4 6a 15
 Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area 
90Green Wall
M 53
91Archer's Arete
HS 4b 38
92Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
93Archer's Crack
VD 40
VD 40
95Clarence Direct
VS 5b 16
96Clarence AreteVS 4c 13
97The PulpitE1 5b **86
98Sunday Morning Slabf3+ 7
99Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 34
100The ChoirVD 176
101Lost AreteVS 5a 78
102Anvil ChorusVS 5b *55
103Forgotten WallVS 4c *112
104Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 79
105Low Level Traverse
none 4b 14
106Lost Chimney
M 33
107Wall and Crack
S 4a 31
108Tried in Veinf6A 8
 Cragrat Boulder 
110Hip To Be Squaref5 6
111Mono Ponyf5+ 7
 Drunken Buttress 
113Side Wallf4 *1
114Seamy SideD *228
115Bottoms UpHS 4b *256
116HangoverVS 4c **342
117Tippling WallHVS 5a **318
118Tippling Wall Left-handHVS 5b *2
119Tippling AreteE1 5b *97
120HumbugE4 7a *8
121The ShelfE2 5c **96
122Tippling Traverse
none 6b *19
123Top PitchVS 5a *3
 Shark's Head Boulder 
125Shark's Head Leftf5+ 24
126Shark's Head (Right Hand)f6C *7
 Pisa Butress 
128Plumb LineS 4a 80
129Pisa ButtressVS 5a 78
130Gravity WallHS 4b *176
131Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **112
132Defying GravityVS 4c *9
133GravitonE1 5b 2
134Galileo's GullyS 4a 42
135Galileo's Gully (inside route)
D 21
 Scugdale Buttress 
137Tooth and NailHS 4c *172
138SupineVS 5a 71
HS 4b 29
140Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **174
141Scugdale ChimneyVD **313
142Scugdale WallVS 4b 151
143Zeta WallVS 4c *296
144DeviatorHVS 5c *38
145Nameless CrackS 4a 42
 Barker's Buttress 
147Cubs' ClimbD 204
148Kitten's ClimbVD *195
149Pups' ClimbHS 4b **375
150BonzoHVS 5b **256
151Pets' CornerVS 4b **434
152The AreteVS 4c *203
153Whippet WallVS 4c *266
154Barker's ChimneyD 142
155PlutoHS 4b 241
156Pluto VariantHVS 6a 93
157Cat WalkVD 74
158HyenaS 4a 58
159Cerberus CrackHS 4b 92
160Peke's PerchS 4a 100
 Holly Tree Buttress 
162Pingers Left-handVS 5b 250
163PingersVS 5a *494
164Pingers Right-handVS 5c 134
165Prickly RibS 4b 150
166Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 77
167Touch and GoE2 6b 5
168Holly Tree WallVS 4b *277
169Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 84
170Saint's WallS 4a *286
171Oak Tree WallHS 4a 182
172Oak Tree Gully AreteS 27
173Oak Tree Gully WallD 36
 Humpty Dumpty 
175The MantelshelfS 4c *240
176Humpty DumptyHS 4b 201
 The Razor 
178Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 18
179Central RouteHVD 4a 160
180Slashed WallVD 198
181The GashD 204
182The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 147
183Razor WallHS 4c *240
184Razor RibHVD **642
185Razor Rib DirectVD *49
186GilletteVS 5a 183
187Gillette Variationf6A 2
188The StropVD 149
189SudsHVS 5b 97
190TensionE1 5c 51
191Tension Right-Hand
VS 5a 18
 Beginner's Slab 
193AlphaVD 447
194BetaVD *460
195GammaHVD 4a *449
196Gamma Arete StartMVS 19
 Curtain Slab 
198Curtain CallD 382
199Curtain CrackVD 393
200Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 329
201Curtain Corner (Right Side)
D 165
202Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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