Climbs 183
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Rake's Buttress 
2Offspringf6A 4
3AuntiesVS 5a 83
4Rake's ProgressD 210
5Uncle'sVS 4c *170
6Mother's Little Helper
-
S 4a 95
7Straight and NarrowVD 243
8Moderator
-
M 81
9Moderator (Nose start)
-
D 42
10Direct Variation
-
HVS 5b 25
11Easy Stages
-
M 89
 Oriel Wall 
13Left Side Groove
-
S 31
14Left Side
-
S 4a 85
15The Mounting Block
-
HD 98
16The Nutcrackers
-
D 98
17The Nutcrackers WallHVD 45
18Gentle SlabM 90
19Spiral Stairs
-
VD 73
20Spiral Stairs Left HandD 6
 Parson's Nose Buttress 
22Explode *f6A+ 1
23Parson's ChimneyM 130
24Hand JiveVS 5b 114
25Left Edge *f5 2
26Jiver's WallVS 4c *226
27Jivers Sit Start *f5+ 1
28Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 21
29Jivers Wall Traverse *f6B+ *2
30Bop RouteS 4a *228
31BoppedVS 5a 63
32Bop Arete Sit Start *f6A 1
33Zoot RouteVD **279
34The NoseHVS 5b 79
 Scot Buttress 
36The Neb Buttress
-
M 33
37The Neb
-
HVS 5b 15
38The VallumS 4a 234
39Hadrian's WallHS 4b *272
40Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 206
41Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *150
42Nook and CrannyS 4a *164
43Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *172
44Highland FlingE1 5b 33
45Bawbee CrackHVD *205
46Bloomin heatherMVS 4c 5
47Blaeberry CrackD *371
48Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 235
49Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 14
50Blaeberry ButtressM *157
51Blaeberry Buttress Variation
-
HD 35
52Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *9
 Romulus and Remus 
54Wolf Wall Corner
-
D 37
55Wolf WallS 4b *229
56Wolf WhistleHS 4b *246
57Woodpecker WallS 4a **386
58RomulusHS 4b *218
59Tiber ChimneyM 85
60Decline and Fall
-
VS 4b 31
61Tiber WallE1 5c 40
62RemusVS 4c *133
63Remus - Right Hand Finish
-
VS 5a 25
 The Prow Area 
65HalyardsVD 155
66Little by LittleVD 4a *184
67Eliminate WallHVS 5a 22
68Main Mast CrackS 4b *165
69StewkerE1 5c *168
70ProwessE3 6b 16
71The ProwE1 5a **187
72Galley ChimneyM 110
73The HeadsHS 4b 174
74The BulkheadVS 4c *257
75The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 6
76The KeelHVS 5a 38
77Plimsoll Line
-
none 4c 21
 Adam and Eve 
79Jill's DelightD 159
80Right Hand SideD 125
81EvensVS 4c *107
82Curving AreteVS 4c *74
83Megabite
-
E1 5c 7
84Jack's DelightVS 4b *184
85EveE1 5a **137
86Eve - Right HandE2 5b *72
87Hob NobsE4 6a 5
88SerpentE4 6a 15
 Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area 
90Green Wall
-
M 57
91Archer's Arete
-
HS 4b 41
92Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
93Archer's Crack
-
VD 44
94Clarence
-
VD 43
95Clarence Direct
-
VS 5b 18
96Clarence AreteVS 4c 14
97The PulpitE1 5b **88
98Sunday Morning SlabV0- 8
99Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 36
100The ChoirVD 181
101Lost AreteVS 5a 80
102Anvil ChorusVS 5b *56
103Forgotten WallVS 4c *116
104Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 81
105Low Level Traverse
-
none 4b 14
106Lost Chimney
-
M 35
107Wall and Crack
-
S 4a 34
108Tried in VeinV3 9
 Cragrat Boulder 
110Hip To Be SquareV1 6
111Mono PonyV2 7
 Drunken Buttress 
113Side Wallf4 *1
114Seamy SideD *236
115Bottoms UpHS 4b *265
116HangoverVS 4c **352
117Tippling WallHVS 5a **334
118Tippling Wall Left-handHVS 5b *6
119Tippling AreteE1 5b *102
120HumbugE4 7a *8
121The ShelfE2 5c **99
122Tippling Traverse
-
none 6b *19
123Top PitchVS 5a *3
 Shark's Head Boulder 
125Shark's Head LeftV2 24
126Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 *7
 Pisa Butress 
128Plumb LineS 4a 85
129Pisa ButtressVS 5a 84
130Gravity WallHS 4b *186
131Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **117
132Defying GravityVS 4c *10
133GravitonE1 5b 2
134Galileo's GullyS 4a 45
135Galileo's Gully (inside route)
-
D 24
 Scugdale Buttress 
137Tooth and NailHS 4c *181
138SupineVS 5a 74
139Hybrid
-
HS 4b 30
140Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **181
141Scugdale ChimneyVD **326
142Scugdale WallVS 4b 158
143Zeta WallVS 4c *304
144DeviatorHVS 5c *42
145Nameless CrackS 4a 47
 Barker's Buttress 
147Cubs' ClimbD 216
148Kitten's ClimbVD *208
149Pups' ClimbHS 4b **391
150BonzoHVS 5b **263
151Pets' CornerVS 4b **457
152The AreteVS 4c *210
153Whippet WallVS 4c *283
154Barker's ChimneyD 150
155PlutoHS 4b 252
156Pluto VariantHVS 6a 96
157Cat WalkVD 80
158HyenaS 4a 61
159Cerberus CrackHS 4b 97
160Peke's PerchS 4a 108
 Holly Tree Buttress 
162Pingers Left-handVS 5b 263
163PingersVS 5a *521
164Pingers Right-handVS 5c 146
165Prickly RibS 4b 158
166Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 80
167Touch and GoE2 6b 6
168Holly Tree WallVS 4b *292
169Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 87
170Saint's WallS 4a *299
171Oak Tree WallHS 4a 190
172Oak Tree Gully AreteS 31
173Oak Tree Gully WallD 39
 Humpty Dumpty 
175The MantelshelfS 4c *253
176Humpty DumptyHS 4b 211
 The Razor 
178Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 21
179Central RouteHVD 4a 173
180Slashed WallVD 210
181The GashD 219
182The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 157
183Razor WallHS 4c *252
184Razor RibHVD **673
185Razor Rib DirectVD *56
186GilletteVS 5a 194
187Gillette Variationf6A 4
188The StropVD 158
189SudsHVS 5b 103
190TensionE1 5c 55
191Tension Right-Hand
-
VS 5a 20
 Beginner's Slab 
193AlphaVD 469
194BetaVD *480
195GammaHVD 4a *468
196Gamma Arete StartMVS 26
 Curtain Slab 
198Curtain CallD 395
199Curtain CrackVD 410
200Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 342
201Curtain Corner (Right Side)
-
D 173
202Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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