Scugdale - Scot Crags

Climbs 182 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 307m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.

Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Access notes
Dogs on short leads - farmland.

From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.

5 min walk leads to the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering (2014), Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 RAKE'S BUTTRESS  
2Offspring *f6A 1
3AuntiesVS 5a 75
4Rake's ProgressD 184
5Uncle'sVS 4c *153
6Mother's Little HelperS 4a 84
7Straight and NarrowVD 223
8ModeratorM 72
9Moderator (Nose start)D 39
10Direct VariationHVS 5b 23
11Easy StagesM 83
 ORIEL WALL  
13Left Side GrooveS 27
14Left SideS 4a 76
15The Mounting BlockHD 89
16The NutcrackersD 88
17The Nutcrackers WallHVD 42
18Gentle SlabM 82
19Spiral StairsVD 68
20Spiral Stairs Left HandD 4
 PARSON'S NOSE BUTTRESS  
22Explode *f6A+ 1
23Parson's ChimneyM 113
24Hand JiveVS 5b 104
25Left Edge *f5 1
26Jiver's WallVS 4c *199
27Jivers Sit Start *f5+ 1
28Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 18
29Jivers Wall Traverse *f6B+ *2
30Bop RouteS 4a *200
31BoppedVS 5a 58
32Bop Arete Sit Start *f6A 1
33Zoot RouteVD **252
34The NoseHVS 5b 72
 SCOT BUTTRESS  
36The Neb ButtressM 29
37The NebHVS 5b 14
38The VallumS 4a 214
39Hadrian's WallHS 4b *239
40Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 188
41Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *128
42Nook and CrannyS 4a *149
43Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *153
44Highland FlingE1 5b 31
45Bawbee CrackHVD *184
46Blaeberry CrackD *334
47Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 217
48Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 13
49Blaeberry ButtressM *143
50Blaeberry Buttress VariationHD 32
51Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *8
 ROMULUS AND REMUS  
53Wolf Wall CornerD 34
54Wolf WallS 4b *206
55Wolf WhistleHS 4b *222
56Woodpecker WallS 4a **353
57RomulusHS 4b *198
58Tiber ChimneyM 75
59Decline and FallVS 4b 28
60Tiber WallE1 5c 33
61RemusVS 4c *115
62Remus - Right Hand FinishVS 5a 24
 THE PROW AREA  
64HalyardsVD 140
65Little by LittleVD 4a *168
66Eliminate WallHVS 5a 21
67Main Mast CrackS 4b *147
68StewkerE1 5c *146
69ProwessE3 6b 15
70The ProwE1 5a **157
71Galley ChimneyM 102
72The HeadsHS 4b 154
73The BulkheadVS 4c *224
74The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 3
75The KeelHVS 5a 34
76Plimsoll Linenone 4c 20
 ADAM AND EVE  
78Jill's DelightD 142
79Right Hand SideD 110
80EvensVS 4c *98
81Curving AreteVS 4c *68
82MegabiteE1 5c 7
83Jack's DelightVS 4b *168
84EveE1 5a **122
85Eve - Right HandE2 5b *63
86Hob NobsE4 6a 4
87SerpentE4 6a 13
 GREEN WALL'S AND THE PULPIT AREA  
89Green WallM 52
90Archer's AreteHS 4b 37
91Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
92Archer's CrackVD 39
93ClarenceVD 38
94Clarence DirectVS 5b 16
95Clarence AreteVS 4c 11
96The PulpitE1 5b **78
97Sunday Morning SlabV0- 7
98Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 28
99The ChoirVD 166
100Lost AreteVS 5a 73
101Anvil ChorusVS 5b *51
102Forgotten WallVS 4c *107
103Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 77
104Low Level Traversenone 4b 13
105Lost ChimneyM 31
106Wall and CrackS 4a 30
107Tried in VeinV3 6a 8
 CRAGRAT BOULDER  
109Hip To Be Square *V1 5
110Mono Pony *V2 6
 DRUNKEN BUTTRESS  
112Side Wall *f4 *1
113Seamy SideD *223
114Bottoms UpHS 4b *246
115HangoverVS 4c **324
116Tippling WallHVS 5a **295
117Tippling AreteE1 5b *93
118HumbugE4 7a *8
119The ShelfE2 5c **93
120Tippling Traversenone 6b *16
121Top PitchVS 5a *2
 SHARK'S HEAD BOULDER  
123Shark's Head LeftV2 5b 22
124Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 6b *7
 PISA BUTRESS  
126Plumb LineS 4a 76
127Pisa ButtressVS 5a 67
128Gravity WallHS 4b *163
129Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **102
130Defying GravityVS 4c *6
131GravitonE1 5b  
132Galileo's GullyS 4a 39
133Galileo's Gully (inside route)D 20
 SCUGDALE BUTTRESS  
135Tooth and NailHS 4c *155
136SupineVS 5a 63
137HybridHS 4b 27
138Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **155
139Scugdale ChimneyVD **286
140Scugdale WallVS 4b 140
141Zeta WallVS 4c *282
142DeviatorHVS 5c *32
143Nameless CrackS 4a 40
 BARKER'S BUTTRESS  
145Cubs' ClimbD 195
146Kitten's ClimbVD *172
147Pups' ClimbHS 4b **347
148BonzoHVS 5b **235
149Pets' CornerVS 4b **414
150The AreteVS 4c *188
151Whippet WallVS 4c *253
152Barker's ChimneyD 134
153PlutoHS 4b 225
154Pluto VariantHVS 6a 83
155Cat WalkVD 72
156HyenaS 4a 55
157Cerberus CrackHS 4b 88
158Peke's PerchS 4a 93
 HOLLY TREE BUTTRESS  
160Pingers Left-handVS 5b 226
161PingersVS 5a *461
162Pingers Right-handVS 5c 119
163Prickly RibS 4b 139
164Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 75
165Touch and GoE2 6b 5
166Holly Tree WallVS 4b *260
167Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 77
168Saint's WallS 4a *268
169Oak Tree WallHS 4a 170
170Oak Tree Gully AreteS 25
171Oak Tree Gully WallD 34
 HUMPTY DUMPTY  
173The MantelshelfS 4c *225
174Humpty DumptyHS 4b 191
 THE RAZOR  
176Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 15
177Central RouteHVD 4a 146
178Slashed WallVD 183
179The GashD 187
180The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 137
181Razor WallHS 4c *219
182Razor RibHVD **601
183Razor Rib DirectVD *39
184GilletteVS 5a 170
185The StropVD 140
186SudsHVS 5b 92
187TensionE1 5c 48
188Tension Right-HandVS 5a 13
 BEGINNER'S SLAB  
190AlphaVD 415
191BetaVD *433
192GammaHVD 4a *420
193Gamma Arete StartMVS 9
 CURTAIN SLAB  
195Curtain CallD 355
196Curtain CrackVD 366
197Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 306
198Curtain Corner (Right Side)D 157
199Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 6
200Bloomin heather *MVS 4c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matthew Ferrier

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04