Scugdale - Scot Crags

Climbs 182 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 307m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.

Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering (2014), Northern England (2008), Climb Online,
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 RAKE'S BUTTRESS  
2Offspringf6A 2
3AuntiesVS 5a 79
4Rake's ProgressD 197
5Uncle'sVS 4c *162
6Mother's Little HelperS 4a 89
7Straight and NarrowVD 230
8ModeratorM 76
9Moderator (Nose start)D 41
10Direct VariationHVS 5b 25
11Easy StagesM 88
 ORIEL WALL  
13Left Side GrooveS 29
14Left SideS 4a 82
15The Mounting BlockHD 95
16The NutcrackersD 94
17The Nutcrackers WallHVD 44
18Gentle SlabM 88
19Spiral StairsVD 72
20Spiral Stairs Left HandD 5
 PARSON'S NOSE BUTTRESS  
22Explode *f6A+ 1
23Parson's ChimneyM 123
24Hand JiveVS 5b 109
25Left Edge *f5 2
26Jiver's WallVS 4c *212
27Jivers Sit Start *f5+ 1
28Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 21
29Jivers Wall Traverse *f6B+ *2
30Bop RouteS 4a *211
31BoppedVS 5a 61
32Bop Arete Sit Start *f6A 1
33Zoot RouteVD **263
34The NoseHVS 5b 75
 SCOT BUTTRESS  
36The Neb ButtressM 31
37The NebHVS 5b 15
38The VallumS 4a 226
39Hadrian's WallHS 4b *256
40Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 195
41Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *142
42Nook and CrannyS 4a *157
43Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *163
44Highland FlingE1 5b 32
45Bawbee CrackHVD *193
46Bloomin heatherMVS 4c 5
47Blaeberry CrackD *353
48Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 226
49Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 14
50Blaeberry ButtressM *149
51Blaeberry Buttress VariationHD 33
52Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *9
 ROMULUS AND REMUS  
54Wolf Wall CornerD 35
55Wolf WallS 4b *217
56Wolf WhistleHS 4b *233
57Woodpecker WallS 4a **370
58RomulusHS 4b *206
59Tiber ChimneyM 78
60Decline and FallVS 4b 31
61Tiber WallE1 5c 35
62RemusVS 4c *121
63Remus - Right Hand FinishVS 5a 25
 THE PROW AREA  
65HalyardsVD 148
66Little by LittleVD 4a *175
67Eliminate WallHVS 5a 21
68Main Mast CrackS 4b *154
69StewkerE1 5c *154
70ProwessE3 6b 15
71The ProwE1 5a **169
72Galley ChimneyM 106
73The HeadsHS 4b 162
74The BulkheadVS 4c *237
75The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 5
76The KeelHVS 5a 36
77Plimsoll Linenone 4c 21
 ADAM AND EVE  
79Jill's DelightD 150
80Right Hand SideD 116
81EvensVS 4c *102
82Curving AreteVS 4c *71
83MegabiteE1 5c 7
84Jack's DelightVS 4b *179
85EveE1 5a **129
86Eve - Right HandE2 5b *67
87Hob NobsE4 6a 5
88SerpentE4 6a 15
 GREEN WALL'S AND THE PULPIT AREA  
90Green WallM 53
91Archer's AreteHS 4b 38
92Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
93Archer's CrackVD 40
94ClarenceVD 39
95Clarence DirectVS 5b 16
96Clarence AreteVS 4c 12
97The PulpitE1 5b **82
98Sunday Morning SlabV0- 7
99Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 34
100The ChoirVD 173
101Lost AreteVS 5a 76
102Anvil ChorusVS 5b *54
103Forgotten WallVS 4c *110
104Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 78
105Low Level Traversenone 4b 14
106Lost ChimneyM 32
107Wall and CrackS 4a 31
108Tried in VeinV3 6a 8
 CRAGRAT BOULDER  
110Hip To Be SquareV1 6
111Mono PonyV2 7
 DRUNKEN BUTTRESS  
113Side Wallf4 *1
114Seamy SideD *226
115Bottoms UpHS 4b *250
116HangoverVS 4c **336
117Tippling WallHVS 5a **309
118Tippling AreteE1 5b *95
119HumbugE4 7a *8
120The ShelfE2 5c **96
121Tippling Traversenone 6b *18
122Top PitchVS 5a *3
 SHARK'S HEAD BOULDER  
124Shark's Head LeftV2 5b 23
125Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 6b *7
 PISA BUTRESS  
127Plumb LineS 4a 78
128Pisa ButtressVS 5a 75
129Gravity WallHS 4b *170
130Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **110
131Defying GravityVS 4c *9
132GravitonE1 5b 1
133Galileo's GullyS 4a 42
134Galileo's Gully (inside route)D 20
 SCUGDALE BUTTRESS  
136Tooth and NailHS 4c *166
137SupineVS 5a 70
138HybridHS 4b 29
139Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **173
140Scugdale ChimneyVD **308
141Scugdale WallVS 4b 148
142Zeta WallVS 4c *291
143DeviatorHVS 5c *35
144Nameless CrackS 4a 41
 BARKER'S BUTTRESS  
146Cubs' ClimbD 202
147Kitten's ClimbVD *190
148Pups' ClimbHS 4b **371
149BonzoHVS 5b **253
150Pets' CornerVS 4b **432
151The AreteVS 4c *200
152Whippet WallVS 4c *263
153Barker's ChimneyD 140
154PlutoHS 4b 235
155Pluto VariantHVS 6a 88
156Cat WalkVD 74
157HyenaS 4a 57
158Cerberus CrackHS 4b 90
159Peke's PerchS 4a 100
 HOLLY TREE BUTTRESS  
161Pingers Left-handVS 5b 244
162PingersVS 5a *483
163Pingers Right-handVS 5c 130
164Prickly RibS 4b 147
165Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 76
166Touch and GoE2 6b 5
167Holly Tree WallVS 4b *271
168Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 82
169Saint's WallS 4a *280
170Oak Tree WallHS 4a 177
171Oak Tree Gully AreteS 26
172Oak Tree Gully WallD 36
 HUMPTY DUMPTY  
174The MantelshelfS 4c *235
175Humpty DumptyHS 4b 198
 THE RAZOR  
177Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 16
178Central RouteHVD 4a 152
179Slashed WallVD 192
180The GashD 202
181The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 143
182Razor WallHS 4c *235
183Razor RibHVD **630
184Razor Rib DirectVD *45
185GilletteVS 5a 179
186Gillette Variationf6A 1
187The StropVD 147
188SudsHVS 5b 95
189TensionE1 5c 50
190Tension Right-HandVS 5a 17
 BEGINNER'S SLAB  
192AlphaVD 435
193BetaVD *453
194GammaHVD 4a *439
195Gamma Arete StartMVS 15
 CURTAIN SLAB  
197Curtain CallD 374
198Curtain CrackVD 386
199Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 323
200Curtain Corner (Right Side)D 161
201Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matthew Ferrier

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04