Climbs 183
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Rake's Buttress 
2Offspringf6A 4
3AuntiesVS 5a 84
4Rake's ProgressD 212
5Uncle'sVS 4c *174
6Mother's Little Helper
S 4a 96
7Straight and NarrowVD 249
M 83
9Moderator (Nose start)
D 42
10Direct Variation
HVS 5b 25
11Easy Stages
M 90
 Oriel Wall 
13Left Side Groove
S 31
14Left Side
S 4a 86
15The Mounting Block
HD 98
16The Nutcrackers
D 98
17The Nutcrackers WallHVD 46
18Gentle SlabM 92
19Spiral Stairs
VD 74
20Spiral Stairs Left HandD 6
 Parson's Nose Buttress 
22Explode *f6A+ 1
23Parson's ChimneyM 131
24Hand JiveVS 5b 114
25Left Edge *f5 3
26Jiver's WallVS 4c *228
27Jivers Sit Start *f5+ 1
28Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 22
29Jivers Wall Traverse *f6B+ *2
30Bop RouteS 4a *231
31BoppedVS 5a 63
32Bop Arete Sit Start *f6A 1
33Zoot RouteVD **286
34The NoseHVS 5b 79
 Scot Buttress 
36The Neb Buttress
M 34
37The Neb
HVS 5b 15
38The VallumS 4a 238
39Hadrian's WallHS 4b *281
40Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 210
41Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *154
42Nook and CrannyS 4a *165
43Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *174
44Highland FlingE1 5b 33
45Bawbee CrackHVD *208
46Bloomin heatherMVS 4c 6
47Blaeberry CrackD *376
48Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 237
49Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 14
50Blaeberry ButtressM *160
51Blaeberry Buttress Variation
HD 35
52Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *9
 Romulus and Remus 
54Wolf Wall Corner
D 38
55Wolf WallS 4b *236
56Wolf WhistleHS 4b *251
57Woodpecker WallS 4a **393
58RomulusHS 4b *226
59Tiber ChimneyM 85
60Decline and Fall
VS 4b 31
61Tiber WallE1 5c 40
62RemusVS 4c *138
63Remus - Right Hand Finish
VS 5a 25
 The Prow Area 
65HalyardsVD 158
66Little by LittleVD 4a *188
67Eliminate WallHVS 5a 24
68Main Mast CrackS 4b *167
69StewkerE1 5c *169
70ProwessE3 6b 16
71The ProwE1 5a **188
72Galley ChimneyM 110
73The HeadsHS 4b 177
74The BulkheadVS 4c *262
75The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 6
76The KeelHVS 5a 39
77Plimsoll Line
none 4c 21
 Adam and Eve 
79Jill's DelightD 161
80Right Hand SideD 126
81EvensVS 4c *108
82Curving AreteVS 4c *75
E1 5c 7
84Jack's DelightVS 4b *191
85EveE1 5a **139
86Eve - Right HandE2 5b *74
87Hob NobsE4 6a 5
88SerpentE4 6a 15
 Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area 
90Green Wall
M 57
91Archer's Arete
HS 4b 41
92Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
93Archer's Crack
VD 45
VD 43
95Clarence Direct
VS 5b 18
96Clarence AreteVS 4c 14
97The PulpitE1 5b **96
98Sunday Morning SlabV0- 8
99Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 36
100The ChoirVD 183
101Lost AreteVS 5a 82
102Anvil ChorusVS 5b *57
103Forgotten WallVS 4c *121
104Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 88
105Low Level Traverse
none 4b 14
106Lost Chimney
M 35
107Wall and Crack
S 4a 34
108Tried in VeinV3 10
 Cragrat Boulder 
110Hip To Be SquareV1 6
111Mono PonyV2 7
 Drunken Buttress 
113Side Wallf4 *2
114Seamy SideD *241
115Bottoms UpHS 4b *270
116HangoverVS 4c **361
117Tippling WallHVS 5a **341
118Tippling Wall Left-handHVS 5b *7
119Tippling AreteE1 5b *105
120HumbugE4 7a *8
121The ShelfE2 5c **107
122Tippling Traverse
none 6b *19
123Top PitchVS 5a *4
 Shark's Head Boulder 
125Shark's Head LeftV2 26
126Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 *8
 Pisa Butress 
128Plumb LineS 4a 90
129Pisa ButtressVS 5a 85
130Gravity WallHS 4b *193
131Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **123
132Defying GravityVS 4c *10
133GravitonE1 5b 2
134Galileo's GullyS 4a 46
135Galileo's Gully (inside route)
D 26
 Scugdale Buttress 
137Tooth and NailHS 4c *187
138SupineVS 5a 76
HS 4b 31
140Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **186
141Scugdale ChimneyVD **334
142Scugdale WallVS 4b 160
143Zeta WallVS 4c *323
144DeviatorHVS 5c *43
145Nameless CrackS 4a 48
 Barker's Buttress 
147Cubs' ClimbD 221
148Kitten's ClimbVD *222
149Pups' ClimbHS 4b **404
150BonzoHVS 5b **274
151Pets' CornerVS 4b **469
152The AreteVS 4c *216
153Whippet WallVS 4c *293
154Barker's ChimneyD 151
155PlutoHS 4b 257
156Pluto VariantHVS 6a 98
157Cat WalkVD 80
158HyenaS 4a 63
159Cerberus CrackHS 4b 100
160Peke's PerchS 4a 110
 Holly Tree Buttress 
162Pingers Left-handVS 5b 269
163PingersVS 5a *533
164Pingers Right-handVS 5c 148
165Prickly RibS 4b 162
166Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 80
167Touch and GoE2 6b 6
168Holly Tree WallVS 4b *295
169Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 91
170Saint's WallS 4a *303
171Oak Tree WallHS 4a 193
172Oak Tree Gully AreteS 32
173Oak Tree Gully WallD 40
 Humpty Dumpty 
175The MantelshelfS 4c *255
176Humpty DumptyHS 4b 214
 The Razor 
178Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 21
179Central RouteHVD 4a 176
180Slashed WallVD 213
181The GashD 222
182The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 161
183Razor WallHS 4c *254
184Razor RibHVD **699
185Razor Rib DirectVD *58
186GilletteVS 5a 201
187Gillette Variationf6A 5
188The StropVD 166
189SudsHVS 5b 107
190TensionE1 5c 57
191Tension Right-Hand
VS 5a 21
 Beginner's Slab 
193AlphaVD 487
194BetaVD *497
195GammaHVD 4a *484
196Gamma Arete StartMVS 30
 Curtain Slab 
198Curtain CallD 408
199Curtain CrackVD 425
200Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 356
201Curtain Corner (Right Side)
D 179
202Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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