Scugdale - Scot Crags

Climbs 182 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 307m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.

Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Access notes
Dogs on short leads - farmland.

From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.

5 min walk leads to the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering (2014), Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 RAKE'S BUTTRESS  
2Offspringf6A 1
3AuntiesVS 5a 77
4Rake's ProgressD 192
5Uncle'sVS 4c *157
6Mother's Little HelperS 4a 86
7Straight and NarrowVD 225
8ModeratorM 73
9Moderator (Nose start)D 40
10Direct VariationHVS 5b 24
11Easy StagesM 84
 ORIEL WALL  
13Left Side GrooveS 28
14Left SideS 4a 78
15The Mounting BlockHD 92
16The NutcrackersD 91
17The Nutcrackers WallHVD 43
18Gentle SlabM 85
19Spiral StairsVD 69
20Spiral Stairs Left HandD 4
 PARSON'S NOSE BUTTRESS  
22Explode *f6A+ 1
23Parson's ChimneyM 117
24Hand JiveVS 5b 105
25Left Edge *f5 1
26Jiver's WallVS 4c *203
27Jivers Sit Start *f5+ 1
28Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 19
29Jivers Wall Traverse *f6B+ *2
30Bop RouteS 4a *204
31BoppedVS 5a 58
32Bop Arete Sit Start *f6A 1
33Zoot RouteVD **255
34The NoseHVS 5b 72
 SCOT BUTTRESS  
36The Neb ButtressM 30
37The NebHVS 5b 14
38The VallumS 4a 216
39Hadrian's WallHS 4b *244
40Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 190
41Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *131
42Nook and CrannyS 4a *149
43Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *156
44Highland FlingE1 5b 31
45Bawbee CrackHVD *184
46Bloomin heatherMVS 4c 2
47Blaeberry CrackD *338
48Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 219
49Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 13
50Blaeberry ButtressM *145
51Blaeberry Buttress VariationHD 32
52Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *8
 ROMULUS AND REMUS  
54Wolf Wall CornerD 34
55Wolf WallS 4b *209
56Wolf WhistleHS 4b *225
57Woodpecker WallS 4a **357
58RomulusHS 4b *201
59Tiber ChimneyM 76
60Decline and FallVS 4b 29
61Tiber WallE1 5c 33
62RemusVS 4c *116
63Remus - Right Hand FinishVS 5a 24
 THE PROW AREA  
65HalyardsVD 142
66Little by LittleVD 4a *170
67Eliminate WallHVS 5a 21
68Main Mast CrackS 4b *150
69StewkerE1 5c *148
70ProwessE3 6b 15
71The ProwE1 5a **159
72Galley ChimneyM 103
73The HeadsHS 4b 154
74The BulkheadVS 4c *225
75The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 4
76The KeelHVS 5a 34
77Plimsoll Linenone 4c 20
 ADAM AND EVE  
79Jill's DelightD 143
80Right Hand SideD 112
81EvensVS 4c *99
82Curving AreteVS 4c *68
83MegabiteE1 5c 7
84Jack's DelightVS 4b *170
85EveE1 5a **122
86Eve - Right HandE2 5b *63
87Hob NobsE4 6a 4
88SerpentE4 6a 13
 GREEN WALL'S AND THE PULPIT AREA  
90Green WallM 52
91Archer's AreteHS 4b 37
92Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
93Archer's CrackVD 39
94ClarenceVD 38
95Clarence DirectVS 5b 16
96Clarence AreteVS 4c 11
97The PulpitE1 5b **78
98Sunday Morning SlabV0- 7
99Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 30
100The ChoirVD 168
101Lost AreteVS 5a 73
102Anvil ChorusVS 5b *51
103Forgotten WallVS 4c *107
104Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 77
105Low Level Traversenone 4b 13
106Lost ChimneyM 31
107Wall and CrackS 4a 30
108Tried in VeinV3 6a 8
 CRAGRAT BOULDER  
110Hip To Be Square *V1 5
111Mono Pony *V2 6
 DRUNKEN BUTTRESS  
113Side Wall *f4 *1
114Seamy SideD *223
115Bottoms UpHS 4b *247
116HangoverVS 4c **328
117Tippling WallHVS 5a **298
118Tippling AreteE1 5b *93
119HumbugE4 7a *8
120The ShelfE2 5c **93
121Tippling Traversenone 6b *16
122Top PitchVS 5a *2
 SHARK'S HEAD BOULDER  
124Shark's Head LeftV2 5b 22
125Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 6b *7
 PISA BUTRESS  
127Plumb LineS 4a 76
128Pisa ButtressVS 5a 70
129Gravity WallHS 4b *164
130Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **103
131Defying GravityVS 4c *7
132GravitonE1 5b  
133Galileo's GullyS 4a 39
134Galileo's Gully (inside route)D 20
 SCUGDALE BUTTRESS  
136Tooth and NailHS 4c *158
137SupineVS 5a 65
138HybridHS 4b 27
139Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **161
140Scugdale ChimneyVD **287
141Scugdale WallVS 4b 140
142Zeta WallVS 4c *282
143DeviatorHVS 5c *32
144Nameless CrackS 4a 40
 BARKER'S BUTTRESS  
146Cubs' ClimbD 197
147Kitten's ClimbVD *177
148Pups' ClimbHS 4b **351
149BonzoHVS 5b **239
150Pets' CornerVS 4b **417
151The AreteVS 4c *191
152Whippet WallVS 4c *256
153Barker's ChimneyD 137
154PlutoHS 4b 226
155Pluto VariantHVS 6a 83
156Cat WalkVD 72
157HyenaS 4a 55
158Cerberus CrackHS 4b 88
159Peke's PerchS 4a 94
 HOLLY TREE BUTTRESS  
161Pingers Left-handVS 5b 228
162PingersVS 5a *467
163Pingers Right-handVS 5c 121
164Prickly RibS 4b 139
165Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 75
166Touch and GoE2 6b 5
167Holly Tree WallVS 4b *263
168Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 79
169Saint's WallS 4a *270
170Oak Tree WallHS 4a 170
171Oak Tree Gully AreteS 25
172Oak Tree Gully WallD 35
 HUMPTY DUMPTY  
174The MantelshelfS 4c *228
175Humpty DumptyHS 4b 192
 THE RAZOR  
177Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 15
178Central RouteHVD 4a 147
179Slashed WallVD 187
180The GashD 193
181The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 138
182Razor WallHS 4c *222
183Razor RibHVD **605
184Razor Rib DirectVD *42
185GilletteVS 5a 171
186The StropVD 142
187SudsHVS 5b 93
188TensionE1 5c 49
189Tension Right-HandVS 5a 15
 BEGINNER'S SLAB  
191AlphaVD 421
192BetaVD *437
193GammaHVD 4a *425
194Gamma Arete StartMVS 10
 CURTAIN SLAB  
196Curtain CallD 362
197Curtain CrackVD 372
198Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 310
199Curtain Corner (Right Side)D 158
200Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matthew Ferrier

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04