Scugdale - Scot Crags

Climbs 182 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 307m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.

Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Access notes
Dogs on short leads - farmland.

From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.

5 min walk leads to the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering (2014), Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 RAKE'S BUTTRESS  
2Offspringf6A 1
3AuntiesVS 5a 77
4Rake's ProgressD 193
5Uncle'sVS 4c *158
6Mother's Little HelperS 4a 87
7Straight and NarrowVD 226
8ModeratorM 74
9Moderator (Nose start)D 40
10Direct VariationHVS 5b 24
11Easy StagesM 85
 ORIEL WALL  
13Left Side GrooveS 28
14Left SideS 4a 79
15The Mounting BlockHD 93
16The NutcrackersD 92
17The Nutcrackers WallHVD 43
18Gentle SlabM 86
19Spiral StairsVD 70
20Spiral Stairs Left HandD 4
 PARSON'S NOSE BUTTRESS  
22Explode *f6A+ 1
23Parson's ChimneyM 121
24Hand JiveVS 5b 106
25Left Edge *f5 1
26Jiver's WallVS 4c *207
27Jivers Sit Start *f5+ 1
28Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 19
29Jivers Wall Traverse *f6B+ *2
30Bop RouteS 4a *206
31BoppedVS 5a 59
32Bop Arete Sit Start *f6A 1
33Zoot RouteVD **259
34The NoseHVS 5b 73
 SCOT BUTTRESS  
36The Neb ButtressM 30
37The NebHVS 5b 14
38The VallumS 4a 223
39Hadrian's WallHS 4b *249
40Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 192
41Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *137
42Nook and CrannyS 4a *151
43Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *159
44Highland FlingE1 5b 31
45Bawbee CrackHVD *187
46Bloomin heatherMVS 4c 3
47Blaeberry CrackD *343
48Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 221
49Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 13
50Blaeberry ButtressM *146
51Blaeberry Buttress VariationHD 32
52Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *8
 ROMULUS AND REMUS  
54Wolf Wall CornerD 34
55Wolf WallS 4b *212
56Wolf WhistleHS 4b *229
57Woodpecker WallS 4a **363
58RomulusHS 4b *202
59Tiber ChimneyM 76
60Decline and FallVS 4b 30
61Tiber WallE1 5c 34
62RemusVS 4c *118
63Remus - Right Hand FinishVS 5a 24
 THE PROW AREA  
65HalyardsVD 144
66Little by LittleVD 4a *172
67Eliminate WallHVS 5a 21
68Main Mast CrackS 4b *151
69StewkerE1 5c *150
70ProwessE3 6b 15
71The ProwE1 5a **162
72Galley ChimneyM 104
73The HeadsHS 4b 155
74The BulkheadVS 4c *229
75The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 4
76The KeelHVS 5a 35
77Plimsoll Linenone 4c 20
 ADAM AND EVE  
79Jill's DelightD 145
80Right Hand SideD 113
81EvensVS 4c *100
82Curving AreteVS 4c *69
83MegabiteE1 5c 7
84Jack's DelightVS 4b *171
85EveE1 5a **124
86Eve - Right HandE2 5b *64
87Hob NobsE4 6a 5
88SerpentE4 6a 14
 GREEN WALL'S AND THE PULPIT AREA  
90Green WallM 52
91Archer's AreteHS 4b 37
92Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
93Archer's CrackVD 39
94ClarenceVD 38
95Clarence DirectVS 5b 16
96Clarence AreteVS 4c 11
97The PulpitE1 5b **82
98Sunday Morning SlabV0- 7
99Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 33
100The ChoirVD 169
101Lost AreteVS 5a 73
102Anvil ChorusVS 5b *51
103Forgotten WallVS 4c *107
104Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 77
105Low Level Traversenone 4b 13
106Lost ChimneyM 31
107Wall and CrackS 4a 30
108Tried in VeinV3 6a 8
 CRAGRAT BOULDER  
110Hip To Be Square *V1 6
111Mono Pony *V2 7
 DRUNKEN BUTTRESS  
113Side Wall *f4 *1
114Seamy SideD *224
115Bottoms UpHS 4b *248
116HangoverVS 4c **330
117Tippling WallHVS 5a **302
118Tippling AreteE1 5b *95
119HumbugE4 7a *8
120The ShelfE2 5c **94
121Tippling Traversenone 6b *16
122Top PitchVS 5a *3
 SHARK'S HEAD BOULDER  
124Shark's Head LeftV2 5b 23
125Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 6b *7
 PISA BUTRESS  
127Plumb LineS 4a 76
128Pisa ButtressVS 5a 72
129Gravity WallHS 4b *165
130Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **105
131Defying GravityVS 4c *8
132GravitonE1 5b 1
133Galileo's GullyS 4a 39
134Galileo's Gully (inside route)D 20
 SCUGDALE BUTTRESS  
136Tooth and NailHS 4c *159
137SupineVS 5a 68
138HybridHS 4b 27
139Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **167
140Scugdale ChimneyVD **290
141Scugdale WallVS 4b 142
142Zeta WallVS 4c *286
143DeviatorHVS 5c *34
144Nameless CrackS 4a 40
 BARKER'S BUTTRESS  
146Cubs' ClimbD 198
147Kitten's ClimbVD *180
148Pups' ClimbHS 4b **358
149BonzoHVS 5b **246
150Pets' CornerVS 4b **420
151The AreteVS 4c *194
152Whippet WallVS 4c *258
153Barker's ChimneyD 138
154PlutoHS 4b 232
155Pluto VariantHVS 6a 86
156Cat WalkVD 73
157HyenaS 4a 56
158Cerberus CrackHS 4b 89
159Peke's PerchS 4a 96
 HOLLY TREE BUTTRESS  
161Pingers Left-handVS 5b 236
162PingersVS 5a *474
163Pingers Right-handVS 5c 126
164Prickly RibS 4b 142
165Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 75
166Touch and GoE2 6b 5
167Holly Tree WallVS 4b *266
168Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 81
169Saint's WallS 4a *273
170Oak Tree WallHS 4a 172
171Oak Tree Gully AreteS 25
172Oak Tree Gully WallD 35
 HUMPTY DUMPTY  
174The MantelshelfS 4c *232
175Humpty DumptyHS 4b 195
 THE RAZOR  
177Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 15
178Central RouteHVD 4a 148
179Slashed WallVD 188
180The GashD 196
181The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 140
182Razor WallHS 4c *225
183Razor RibHVD **610
184Razor Rib DirectVD *42
185GilletteVS 5a 173
186The StropVD 144
187SudsHVS 5b 93
188TensionE1 5c 49
189Tension Right-HandVS 5a 16
 BEGINNER'S SLAB  
191AlphaVD 426
192BetaVD *441
193GammaHVD 4a *428
194Gamma Arete StartMVS 12
 CURTAIN SLAB  
196Curtain CallD 365
197Curtain CrackVD 376
198Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 313
199Curtain Corner (Right Side)D 159
200Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matthew Ferrier

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04