Scugdale - Scot Crags

Climbs 182 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 307m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.

Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Access notes
Dogs on short leads - farmland.

From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.

5 min walk leads to the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 RAKE'S BUTTRESS  
2AuntiesVS 5a 74
3Rake's ProgressD 180
4Uncle'sVS 4c *149
5Mother's Little HelperS 4a 82
6Straight and NarrowD 215
7ModeratorM 72
8Moderator (Nose start)D 39
9Direct VariationHVS 5b 22
10Easy StagesM 82
 ORIEL WALL  
12Left Side GrooveS 27
13Left SideS 4a 76
14The Mounting BlockHD 89
15The NutcrackersD 88
16The Nutcrackers WallHVD 42
17Gentle SlabM 81
18Spiral StairsVD 68
19Spiral Stairs Left HandD 4
 PARSON'S NOSE BUTTRESS  
21Parson's ChimneyM 109
22Hand JiveVS 5b 101
23Left Edge *f5 1
24Jiver's WallVS 4c 195
25Jivers Sit Start *f5+ 1
26Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 18
27Jivers Wall Traverse *f6B+ *2
28Bop RouteMS *195
29BoppedVS 5a 55
30Bop Arete Sit Start *f6A 1
31Zoot RouteVD **244
32The NoseHVS 5b 70
 SCOT BUTTRESS  
34The Neb ButtressM 29
35The NebHVS 5b 13
36The VallumS 4a *203
37Hadrian's WallHS 4b *232
38Corner Direct - LeftS 4a *180
39Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *121
40Nook and CrannyMS *144
41Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *144
42Highland FlingE1 5b 31
43Bawbee CrackHD 173
44Blaeberry CrackD 322
45Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 208
46Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 13
47Blaeberry ButtressM **140
48Blaeberry Buttress VariationHD 31
49Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *8
 ROMULUS AND REMUS  
51Wolf Wall CornerD 34
52Wolf WallS 4a 201
53Wolf WhistleHS 4b *217
54Woodpecker WallS 4a *342
55RomulusHS 4b 193
56Tiber ChimneyM 73
57Decline and FallVS 4b 26
58Tiber WallE1 5c 32
59RemusVS 4c 111
60Remus - Right Hand FinishVS 5a 22
 THE PROW AREA  
62HalyardsD 135
63Little by LittleVD *165
64Eliminate WallHVS 5a 19
65Main Mast CrackS 4a *143
66StewkerE1 5c **142
67ProwessE3 6b 14
68The ProwE1 5a 152
69Galley ChimneyM 99
70The HeadsHS 4b 146
71The BulkheadHS 4b *220
72The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 2
73The KeelHVS 5a 33
74Plimsoll Linenone 4c 20
 ADAM AND EVE  
76Jill's DelightD 139
77Right Hand SideD 108
78EvensVS 4c *96
79Curving AreteVS 4c 65
80MegabiteE1 5c 7
81Jack's DelightVS 4b *162
82EveHVS 5a *118
83Eve - Right HandE2 5b *61
84Hob NobsE3 6a 4
85SerpentE3 6a 13
 GREEN WALL'S AND THE PULPIT AREA  
87Green WallM 49
88Archer's AreteHS 4b 35
89Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
90Archer's CrackVD 36
91ClarenceVD 36
92Clarence DirectVS 5b 16
93Clarence AreteVS 4c 10
94The PulpitE1 5b **74
95Sunday Morning SlabV0- 6
96Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 28
97The ChoirVD 158
98Lost AreteVS 4c 71
99Anvil ChorusVS 5b *50
100Forgotten WallVS 4c *103
101Forgotten AreteVS 4c 74
102Low Level Traversenone 4b 13
103Lost ChimneyM 31
104Wall and CrackS 4a 30
105Tried in VeinV3 6a 8
 CRAGRAT BOULDER  
107Hip To Be Square *V1 5
108Mono Pony *V2 6
 DRUNKEN BUTTRESS  
110Seamy SideD *217
111Bottoms UpHS 4b *242
112HangoverVS 4c *309
113Tippling WallHVS 5a **284
114Tippling AreteHVS 5b 90
115HumbugE4 7a 6
116The ShelfE2 5c **90
117Tippling Traversenone 6b *15
118Top PitchVS 5a *2
 SHARK'S HEAD BOULDER  
120Shark's Head LeftV2 5b 21
121Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 6b *7
 PISA BUTRESS  
123Plumb LineS 4a 74
124Pisa ButtressVS 5a 66
125Gravity WallHS 4b *156
126Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **97
127Defying GravityVS 4c *4
128GravitonE1 5b  
129Galileo's GullyS 4a 38
130Galileo's Gully (inside route)D 19
 SCUGDALE BUTTRESS  
132Tooth and NailMVS 4b *153
133SupineVS 5a 58
134HybridHS 4b 25
135Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4b 147
136Scugdale ChimneyD *275
137Scugdale WallMVS 4b 136
138Zeta WallVS 4c **264
139DeviatorHVS 5c *30
140Nameless CrackVD 38
 BARKER'S BUTTRESS  
142Cubs' ClimbD 188
143Kitten's ClimbVD *162
144Pups' ClimbS 4a 334
145BonzoVS 5b *223
146Pets' CornerHS 4b *390
147The AreteVS 4c 177
148Whippet WallVS 4c 239
149Barker's ChimneyD 130
150PlutoHS 4b 215
151Pluto VariantHVS 6a 78
152Cat WalkHD 71
153HyenaS 4a 53
154Cerberus CrackS 4a 84
155Peke's PerchS 4a 86
 HOLLY TREE BUTTRESS  
157Pingers Left-handVS 5a 212
158PingersVS 5a **437
159Pingers Right-handVS 5b 115
160Prickly RibHVD 137
161Holly Tree ChimneyHD 74
162Touch and GoE2 6b 5
163Holly Tree WallHS 4b *249
164Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 75
165Saint's WallHVD *258
166Oak Tree WallS 4a 164
167Oak Tree Gully AreteS 24
168Oak Tree Gully WallD 33
 HUMPTY DUMPTY  
170The MantelshelfHS 4b *219
171Humpty DumptyHS 4b 187
 THE RAZOR  
173Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 14
174Central RouteHVD 140
175Slashed WallHVD 178
176The GashD 184
177The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 134
178Razor WallHS 4b 209
179Razor RibVD **570
180Razor Rib DirectVD *36
181GilletteVS 5a 158
182The StropD 134
183SudsHVS 5a 87
184TensionHVS 5b 46
185Tension Right-HandVS 5a 11
 BEGINNER'S SLAB  
187AlphaHD 398
188BetaD 416
189GammaHD *403
190Gamma Arete StartMVS 7
 CURTAIN SLAB  
192Curtain CallD 339
193Curtain CrackVD 350
194Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 292
195Curtain Corner (Right Side)D 153
196Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 5
197Explode *f6A+ 1
198Side Wall *f4 *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matthew Ferrier

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
ebachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 05/Aug/2013
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