Climbs 183
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Rake's Buttress 
2Offspringf6A 7
3AuntiesVS 5a 93
4Rake's ProgressD 227
5Uncle'sVS 4c *186
6Mother's Little Helper
-
S 4a 101
7Straight and NarrowVD 264
8Moderator
-
M 87
9Moderator (Nose start)
-
D 45
10Direct Variation
-
HVS 5b 26
11Easy Stages
-
M 94
 Oriel Wall 
13Left Side Groove
-
S 33
14Left Side
-
S 4a 91
15The Mounting Block
-
HD 104
16The Nutcrackers
-
D 104
17The Nutcrackers WallHVD 50
18Gentle SlabM 98
19Spiral Stairs
-
VD 76
20Spiral Stairs Left HandD 8
 Parson's Nose Buttress 
22Explode *f6A+ 3
23Parson's ChimneyM 138
24Hand JiveVS 5b 127
25Left Edge *f5 5
26Jiver's WallVS 4c *245
27Jivers Sit Start *f5+ 2
28Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 26
29Jivers Wall Traverse *f6B+ *2
30Bop RouteS 4a *244
31BoppedVS 5a 68
32Bop Arete Sit Start *f6A 2
33Zoot RouteVD **305
34The NoseHVS 5b 81
 Scot Buttress 
36The Neb Buttress
-
M 36
37The Neb
-
HVS 5b 17
38The VallumS 4a 256
39Hadrian's WallHS 4b *293
40Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 218
41Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *159
42Nook and CrannyS 4a *176
43Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *186
44Highland FlingE1 5b 33
45Bawbee CrackHVD *216
46Bloomin heatherMVS 4c 8
47Blaeberry CrackD *393
48Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 248
49Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 15
50Blaeberry ButtressM *167
51Blaeberry Buttress Variation
-
HD 36
52Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *10
 Romulus and Remus 
54Wolf Wall Corner
-
D 40
55Wolf WallS 4b *248
56Wolf WhistleHS 4b *264
57Woodpecker WallS 4a **414
58RomulusHS 4b *240
59Tiber ChimneyM 87
60Decline and Fall
-
VS 4b 32
61Tiber WallE1 5c 41
62RemusVS 4c *147
63Remus - Right Hand Finish
-
VS 5a 25
 The Prow Area 
65HalyardsVD 165
66Little by LittleVD 4a *193
67Eliminate WallHVS 5a 25
68Main Mast CrackS 4b *174
69StewkerE1 5c *183
70ProwessE3 6b 26
71The ProwE1 5a **202
72Galley ChimneyM 115
73The HeadsHS 4b 186
74The BulkheadVS 4c *284
75The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 6
76The KeelHVS 5a 40
77Plimsoll Line
-
none 4c 22
 Adam and Eve 
79Jill's DelightD 168
80Right Hand SideD 130
81EvensVS 4c *113
82Curving AreteVS 4c *80
83Megabite
-
E1 5c 7
84Jack's DelightVS 4b *200
85EveE1 5a **146
86Eve - Right HandE2 5b *81
87Hob NobsE4 6a 5
88SerpentE4 6a 19
 Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area 
90Green Wall
-
M 58
91Archer's Arete
-
HS 4b 42
92Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
93Archer's Crack
-
VD 46
94Clarence
-
VD 44
95Clarence Direct
-
VS 5b 20
96Clarence AreteVS 4c 14
97The PulpitE1 5b **100
98Sunday Morning SlabV0- 8
99Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 37
100The ChoirVD 192
101Lost AreteVS 5a 88
102Anvil ChorusVS 5b *64
103Forgotten WallVS 4c *129
104Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 96
105Low Level Traverse
-
none 4b 15
106Lost Chimney
-
M 37
107Wall and Crack
-
S 4a 35
108Tried in VeinV3 12
 Cragrat Boulder 
110Hip To Be SquareV1 7
111Mono PonyV2 8
 Drunken Buttress 
113Side Wallf4 *2
114Seamy SideD *251
115Bottoms UpHS 4b *284
116HangoverVS 4c **383
117Tippling WallHVS 5a **363
118Tippling Wall Left-handHVS 5b *11
119Tippling AreteE1 5b *110
120HumbugE4 7a *8
121The ShelfE2 5c **114
122Tippling Traverse
-
none 6b *22
123Top PitchVS 5a *4
 Shark's Head Boulder 
125Shark's Head LeftV2 29
126Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 *8
 Pisa Butress 
128Plumb LineS 4a 98
129Pisa ButtressVS 5a 92
130Gravity WallHS 4b *202
131Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **127
132Defying GravityVS 4c *11
133GravitonE1 5b 2
134Galileo's GullyS 4a 50
135Galileo's Gully (inside route)
-
D 28
 Scugdale Buttress 
137Tooth and NailHS 4c *200
138SupineVS 5a 77
139Hybrid
-
HS 4b 33
140Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **197
141Scugdale ChimneyVD **355
142Scugdale WallVS 4b 175
143Zeta WallVS 4c *341
144DeviatorHVS 5c *49
145Nameless CrackS 4a 50
 Barker's Buttress 
147Cubs' ClimbD 235
148Kitten's ClimbVD *234
149Pups' ClimbHS 4b **423
150BonzoHVS 5b **288
151Pets' CornerVS 4b **496
152The AreteVS 4c *229
153Whippet WallVS 4c *310
154Barker's ChimneyD 158
155PlutoHS 4b 272
156Pluto VariantHVS 6a 105
157Cat WalkVD 85
158HyenaS 4a 68
159Cerberus CrackHS 4b 104
160Peke's PerchS 4a 117
 Holly Tree Buttress 
162Pingers Left-handVS 5b 285
163PingersVS 5a *566
164Pingers Right-handVS 5c 159
165Prickly RibS 4b 170
166Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 81
167Touch and GoE2 6b 7
168Holly Tree WallVS 4b *311
169Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 96
170Saint's WallS 4a *321
171Oak Tree WallHS 4a 207
172Oak Tree Gully AreteS 35
173Oak Tree Gully WallD 44
 Humpty Dumpty 
175The MantelshelfS 4c *272
176Humpty DumptyHS 4b 227
 The Razor 
178Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 24
179Central RouteHVD 4a 188
180Slashed WallVD 227
181The GashD 237
182The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 171
183Razor WallHS 4c *266
184Razor RibHVD **730
185Razor Rib DirectVD *62
186GilletteVS 5a 210
187Gillette Variationf6A 6
188The StropVD 181
189SudsHVS 5b 111
190TensionE1 5c 57
191Tension Right-Hand
-
VS 5a 22
 Beginner's Slab 
193AlphaVD 518
194BetaVD *533
195GammaHVD 4a *507
196Gamma Arete StartMVS 36
 Curtain Slab 
198Curtain CallD 429
199Curtain CrackVD 448
200Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 375
201Curtain Corner (Right Side)
-
D 188
202Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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