Scugdale - Scot Crags

Climbs 182 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 307m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.

Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Access notes
Dogs on short leads - farmland.

From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.

5 min walk leads to the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering (2014), Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 RAKE'S BUTTRESS  
2AuntiesVS 5a 75
3Rake's ProgressD 182
4Uncle'sVS 4c *150
5Mother's Little HelperS 4a 83
6Straight and NarrowVD 218
7ModeratorM 72
8Moderator (Nose start)D 39
9Direct VariationHVS 5b 23
10Easy StagesM 83
 ORIEL WALL  
12Left Side GrooveS 27
13Left SideS 4a 76
14The Mounting BlockHD 89
15The NutcrackersD 88
16The Nutcrackers WallHVD 42
17Gentle SlabM 81
18Spiral StairsVD 68
19Spiral Stairs Left HandD 4
 PARSON'S NOSE BUTTRESS  
21Parson's ChimneyM 111
22Hand JiveVS 5b 102
23Left Edge *f5 1
24Jiver's WallVS 4c *196
25Jivers Sit Start *f5+ 1
26Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 18
27Jivers Wall Traverse *f6B+ *2
28Bop RouteS 4a *197
29BoppedVS 5a 56
30Bop Arete Sit Start *f6A 1
31Zoot RouteVD **246
32The NoseHVS 5b 71
 SCOT BUTTRESS  
34The Neb ButtressM 29
35The NebHVS 5b 13
36The VallumS 4a 207
37Hadrian's WallHS 4b *235
38Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 182
39Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *127
40Nook and CrannyS 4a *147
41Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *146
42Highland FlingE1 5b 31
43Bawbee CrackHVD *175
44Blaeberry CrackD *325
45Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 209
46Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 13
47Blaeberry ButtressM *141
48Blaeberry Buttress VariationHD 32
49Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *8
 ROMULUS AND REMUS  
51Wolf Wall CornerD 34
52Wolf WallS 4b *204
53Wolf WhistleHS 4b *219
54Woodpecker WallS 4a **345
55RomulusHS 4b *195
56Tiber ChimneyM 75
57Decline and FallVS 4b 26
58Tiber WallE1 5c 33
59RemusVS 4c *113
60Remus - Right Hand FinishVS 5a 24
 THE PROW AREA  
62HalyardsVD 137
63Little by LittleVD 4a *168
64Eliminate WallHVS 5a 19
65Main Mast CrackS 4b *146
66StewkerE1 5c *143
67ProwessE3 6b 14
68The ProwE1 5a **154
69Galley ChimneyM 101
70The HeadsHS 4b 150
71The BulkheadVS 4c *222
72The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 3
73The KeelHVS 5a 34
74Plimsoll Linenone 4c 20
 ADAM AND EVE  
76Jill's DelightD 141
77Right Hand SideD 110
78EvensVS 4c *98
79Curving AreteVS 4c *67
80MegabiteE1 5c 7
81Jack's DelightVS 4b *163
82EveE1 5a **119
83Eve - Right HandE2 5b *62
84Hob NobsE4 6a 4
85SerpentE4 6a 13
 GREEN WALL'S AND THE PULPIT AREA  
87Green WallM 51
88Archer's AreteHS 4b 37
89Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
90Archer's CrackVD 38
91ClarenceVD 38
92Clarence DirectVS 5b 16
93Clarence AreteVS 4c 11
94The PulpitE1 5b **75
95Sunday Morning SlabV0- 7
96Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 28
97The ChoirVD 161
98Lost AreteVS 5a 72
99Anvil ChorusVS 5b *51
100Forgotten WallVS 4c *105
101Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 76
102Low Level Traversenone 4b 13
103Lost ChimneyM 31
104Wall and CrackS 4a 30
105Tried in VeinV3 6a 8
 CRAGRAT BOULDER  
107Hip To Be Square *V1 5
108Mono Pony *V2 6
 DRUNKEN BUTTRESS  
110Seamy SideD *221
111Bottoms UpHS 4b *244
112HangoverVS 4c **315
113Tippling WallHVS 5a **287
114Tippling AreteE1 5b *90
115HumbugE4 7a *8
116The ShelfE2 5c **90
117Tippling Traversenone 6b *15
118Top PitchVS 5a *2
 SHARK'S HEAD BOULDER  
120Shark's Head LeftV2 5b 21
121Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 6b *7
 PISA BUTRESS  
123Plumb LineS 4a 76
124Pisa ButtressVS 5a 67
125Gravity WallHS 4b *159
126Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **98
127Defying GravityVS 4c *6
128GravitonE1 5b  
129Galileo's GullyS 4a 39
130Galileo's Gully (inside route)D 20
 SCUGDALE BUTTRESS  
132Tooth and NailHS 4c *155
133SupineVS 5a 60
134HybridHS 4b 26
135Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **148
136Scugdale ChimneyVD **281
137Scugdale WallVS 4b 139
138Zeta WallVS 4c *267
139DeviatorHVS 5c *30
140Nameless CrackS 4a 39
 BARKER'S BUTTRESS  
142Cubs' ClimbD 191
143Kitten's ClimbVD *168
144Pups' ClimbHS 4b **340
145BonzoHVS 5b **225
146Pets' CornerVS 4b **399
147The AreteVS 4c *179
148Whippet WallVS 4c *244
149Barker's ChimneyD 131
150PlutoHS 4b 219
151Pluto VariantHVS 6a 79
152Cat WalkVD 72
153HyenaS 4a 54
154Cerberus CrackHS 4b 85
155Peke's PerchS 4a 89
 HOLLY TREE BUTTRESS  
157Pingers Left-handVS 5b 215
158PingersVS 5a *442
159Pingers Right-handVS 5c 115
160Prickly RibS 4b 138
161Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 74
162Touch and GoE2 6b 5
163Holly Tree WallVS 4b *250
164Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 76
165Saint's WallS 4a *262
166Oak Tree WallHS 4a 167
167Oak Tree Gully AreteS 25
168Oak Tree Gully WallD 34
 HUMPTY DUMPTY  
170The MantelshelfS 4c *221
171Humpty DumptyHS 4b 189
 THE RAZOR  
173Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 15
174Central RouteHVD 4a 143
175Slashed WallVD 181
176The GashD 185
177The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 135
178Razor WallHS 4c *214
179Razor RibHVD **582
180Razor Rib DirectVD *38
181GilletteVS 5a 161
182The StropVD 139
183SudsHVS 5b 88
184TensionE1 5c 46
185Tension Right-HandVS 5a 12
 BEGINNER'S SLAB  
187AlphaVD 407
188BetaVD *424
189GammaHVD 4a *412
190Gamma Arete StartMVS 9
 CURTAIN SLAB  
192Curtain CallD 346
193Curtain CrackVD 359
194Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 296
195Curtain Corner (Right Side)D 155
196Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 5
197Explode *f6A+ 1
198Side Wall *f4 *1
199Offspring *f6A 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matthew Ferrier

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 27/Dec/2014
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