Climbs 183
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 307m a.s.l
Faces SW

Steve, evening bouldering at Scugdale, North York Moors © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height and offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.
Recommended routes: Tippling Wall (5a), The Shelf (5c), Hangover (4c), Zeta Wall (4c), Pingers (5a)

Approach notes

Dogs on short leads - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Some of the routes a bit sandy. The local style seems to be to boulder everything, but a bit highball for a coward like me. Lovely relaxed feel to the place though.
glaramara - 19/Oct/14
Fantastic quality rock, such a great place! Love it after just one visit!
Emilio Bachini - 15/Jul/10
fantastic crag with some very good problems. if you only solo razor rib in the early morning sun then it's worth the trip alone. perfect.
rain dog... - 07/Sep/04
fantastic crag, beautifull setting, brilliant rock and possibly the finest V-Diff solo anywhere! if you only go to solo 'razor rib' in the early morning sun then your trip will have been worthwile! excellent :-)
rain dog... - 06/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Rake's Buttress 
2Offspringf6A 7
3AuntiesVS 5a 93
4Rake's ProgressD 230
5Uncle'sVS 4c *186
6Mother's Little Helper
S 4a 103
7Straight and NarrowVD 266
M 89
9Moderator (Nose start)
D 45
10Direct Variation
HVS 5b 27
11Easy Stages
M 96
 Oriel Wall 
13Left Side Groove
S 33
14Left Side
S 4a 93
15The Mounting Block
HD 106
16The Nutcrackers
D 106
17The Nutcrackers WallHVD 50
18Gentle SlabM 100
19Spiral Stairs
VD 78
20Spiral Stairs Left HandD 8
 Parson's Nose Buttress 
22Explode *f6A+ 3
23Parson's ChimneyM 140
24Hand JiveVS 5b 127
25Left Edge *f5 5
26Jiver's WallVS 4c *245
27Jivers Sit Start *f5+ 2
28Jiver's Wall Right AreteVS 5a 26
29Jivers Wall Traverse *f6B+ *2
30Bop RouteS 4a *246
31BoppedVS 5a 68
32Bop Arete Sit Start *f6A 2
33Zoot RouteVD **307
34The NoseHVS 5b 81
 Scot Buttress 
36The Neb Buttress
M 36
37The Neb
HVS 5b 17
38The VallumS 4a 256
39Hadrian's WallHS 4b *298
40Corner Direct - LeftS 4a 219
41Corner Direct - RightHS 4b *160
42Nook and CrannyS 4a *177
43Nook and Cranny - Direct StartHS 4b *189
44Highland FlingE1 5b 33
45Bawbee CrackHVD *218
46Bloomin heatherMVS 4c 8
47Blaeberry CrackD *397
48Blaeberry Buttress DirectHS 4b 250
49Blaeberry Buttress Direct, but no vertical crack!HD 15
50Blaeberry ButtressM *168
51Blaeberry Buttress Variation
HD 36
52Scot's GirdleMVS 4b *10
 Romulus and Remus 
54Wolf Wall Corner
D 40
55Wolf WallS 4b *248
56Wolf WhistleHS 4b *268
57Woodpecker WallS 4a **418
58RomulusHS 4b *241
59Tiber ChimneyM 89
60Decline and Fall
VS 4b 32
61Tiber WallE1 5c 41
62RemusVS 4c *147
63Remus - Right Hand Finish
VS 5a 25
 The Prow Area 
65HalyardsVD 166
66Little by LittleVD 4a *196
67Eliminate WallHVS 5a 25
68Main Mast CrackS 4b *176
69StewkerE1 5c *183
70ProwessE3 6b 26
71The ProwE1 5a **202
72Galley ChimneyM 115
73The HeadsHS 4b 186
74The BulkheadVS 4c *285
75The Bulkhead Variation IIHS 4b 6
76The KeelHVS 5a 40
77Plimsoll Line
none 4c 22
 Adam and Eve 
79Jill's DelightD 169
80Right Hand SideD 131
81EvensVS 4c *113
82Curving AreteVS 4c *80
E1 5c 7
84Jack's DelightVS 4b *201
85EveE1 5a **146
86Eve - Right HandE2 5b *81
87Hob NobsE4 6a 5
88SerpentE4 6a 19
 Green Wall's and The Pulpit Area 
90Green Wall
M 59
91Archer's Arete
HS 4b 45
92Archers and lemonadenone 5c 3
93Archer's Crack
VD 46
VD 45
95Clarence Direct
VS 5b 21
96Clarence AreteVS 4c 15
97The PulpitE1 5b **100
98Sunday Morning SlabV0- 8
99Lazing on a Sunday AfternoonHVS 5b 37
100The ChoirVD 194
101Lost AreteVS 5a 88
102Anvil ChorusVS 5b *64
103Forgotten WallVS 4c *129
104Forgotten AreteHVS 5a 96
105Low Level Traverse
none 4b 15
106Lost Chimney
M 37
107Wall and Crack
S 4a 35
108Tried in VeinV3 12
 Cragrat Boulder 
110Hip To Be SquareV1 7
111Mono PonyV2 8
 Drunken Buttress 
113Side Wallf4 *2
114Seamy SideD *251
115Bottoms UpHS 4b *285
116HangoverVS 4c **385
117Tippling WallHVS 5a **364
118Tippling Wall Left-handHVS 5b *11
119Tippling AreteE1 5b *110
120HumbugE4 7a *8
121The ShelfE2 5c **114
122Tippling Traverse
none 6b *22
123Top PitchVS 5a *4
 Shark's Head Boulder 
125Shark's Head LeftV2 29
126Shark's Head (Right Hand)V5 *8
 Pisa Butress 
128Plumb LineS 4a 98
129Pisa ButtressVS 5a 92
130Gravity WallHS 4b *202
131Gravity Wall DirectHS 4c **128
132Defying GravityVS 4c *11
133GravitonE1 5b 4
134Galileo's GullyS 4a 50
135Galileo's Gully (inside route)
D 28
 Scugdale Buttress 
137Tooth and NailHS 4c *200
138SupineVS 5a 77
HS 4b 33
140Scugdale Chimney EliminateVS 4c **198
141Scugdale ChimneyVD **358
142Scugdale WallVS 4b 176
143Zeta WallVS 4c *344
144DeviatorHVS 5c *49
145Nameless CrackS 4a 50
 Barker's Buttress 
147Cubs' ClimbD 237
148Kitten's ClimbVD *237
149Pups' ClimbHS 4b **431
150BonzoHVS 5b **292
151Pets' CornerVS 4b **503
152The AreteVS 4c *233
153Whippet WallVS 4c *312
154Barker's ChimneyD 159
155PlutoHS 4b 274
156Pluto VariantHVS 6a 106
157Cat WalkVD 85
158HyenaS 4a 69
159Cerberus CrackHS 4b 104
160Peke's PerchS 4a 117
 Holly Tree Buttress 
162Pingers Left-handVS 5b 285
163PingersVS 5a *570
164Pingers Right-handVS 5c 159
165Prickly RibS 4b 170
166Holly Tree ChimneyHVD 81
167Touch and GoE2 6b 7
168Holly Tree WallVS 4b *313
169Holly Tree HoverVS 5a 96
170Saint's WallS 4a *323
171Oak Tree WallHS 4a 207
172Oak Tree Gully AreteS 35
173Oak Tree Gully WallD 44
 Humpty Dumpty 
175The MantelshelfS 4c *273
176Humpty DumptyHS 4b 228
 The Razor 
178Left Hand SwingHVD 4b 24
179Central RouteHVD 4a 188
180Slashed WallVD 227
181The GashD 239
182The Gash - Arete FinishHS 4b 175
183Razor WallHS 4c *271
184Razor RibHVD **740
185Razor Rib DirectVD *63
186GilletteVS 5a 214
187Gillette Variationf6A 6
188The StropVD 182
189SudsHVS 5b 111
190TensionE1 5c 57
191Tension Right-Hand
VS 5a 22
 Beginner's Slab 
193AlphaVD 526
194BetaVD *539
195GammaHVD 4a *515
196Gamma Arete StartMVS 36
 Curtain Slab 
198Curtain CallD 434
199Curtain CrackVD 453
200Curtain Corner (Left Side)VD 380
201Curtain Corner (Right Side)
D 191
202Low Level Traversenone 6a/b 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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