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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref NZ 558035 (OS Landranger #93)

Wainstones

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 145 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 380m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The crag lies at the end of a ridge overlooking a col - making it often windy, but also quick to dry. There is some excellent bouldering beneath the crag. Recommended: Sphinx Nose Traverse (S), concave Wall (HVS), Wall and Ledge (D), Little Bo Peep (VS), Ali Baba (E2/3).

Weather forecast

Today	Sun	Mon	Tue	Wed

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

1	Broughton Ridge	VD	24
2	Bench Mark Crack	HS 4b *	35
3	Bench Mark Wall	E1 6a	5
4	Psycho Syndicate	E5 6c **	3
5	Tiny's Arete Direct	HVS 5b *	12
6	Tiny's Dilemma	HVS 5a	51
7	Tiny's Dilemma Variation	VD	42
8	Low Level Traverse	none 6a	1
9	Rookery Nook	D	40
10	Morning Wall	MS 4a *	84
11	Milky Way	D	13
12	Evening Wall	VD	19
13	Green Wall	HS 4b	17
14	Sheep Walk Slab	M *	25
15	Sheep Walk Slab (variation start)	D	9
16	Flake, Wall and Crack	HS 4b	24
17	Solomon's Porch	S 4a	21
18	Lurch	VS 4b	11
19	Humpty Dumpty	D	27
20	Novitiate	M	12
21	Steeple Groove	D	33
22	Steeple Face	HVS 5b *	13
23	Steeple Chimney	VD *	39
24	Centre Fold	HVS 5c	5
25	Chop Yat Ridge	VD	37
26	Steeple Gap	M	28
27	Main Route	M *	77
28	North Route	HVS 5b	28
29	West Face Direct	E4 6b *	2
30	West Face Low Level Traverse	none 5c	1
31	The Girdle	VD	4
32	Bird Lime	E3 5c *	3
33	Bird Lime - Variation Start	E3 5c **
34	Little Bo-Peep	VS 4b **	115
35	Miss Muffet	VS 4c *	17
36	On Form	E1 5b	5
37	Summit Crisis	E2 5c *	1
38	Cantilever	D	23
39	Peel Out	E4 6b	2
40	Ling Buttress	HS 4b **	241
41	Ling Arete	HVS 5a	8
42	Groove and Crack	HVD *	181
43	Ling Corner	S 4a	87
44	Falcon Rib	D	33
45	West Sphinx Climb	E2 5b *	24
46	West Sphinx Direct	E3 5b **	38
47	Direct Start	E2 5c *	3
48	Direct Start - Variation	E3 6a
49	Black Night	E7 6c	1
50	Terrorist	E4 5c *	11
51	Walk on the Wild Side	E3 5c	6
52	East Sphinx Direct	VS 5a	103
53	Left Hand Variation	E2 5c	2
54	East Sphinx Climb	HVD *	107
55	Sphinx Nose Traverse	S 4a ***	345
56	Traverse of the God's	E2 5b	2
57	Pip	D	20
58	Squeek	VD	13
59	Wilfred	HD	17
60	Curving Wall	VD	8
61	Jackdaw Ridge	VD *	108
62	Jackdaw Wall	E2 6a	11
63	Jackdaw Gully	M *	171
64	Christopher	VS 4b **	182
65	Christopher Direct	VS 4c	30
66	The Bulge (Super Direct)	E1 5b	11
67	Wilson's Groove	E3 6a
68	The Bulge	VS 4c *	28
69	The Bulge Direct	VS 4b	11
70	The Bulge Low Level Traverse	none 5c	1
71	Christopher/Bulge Combo	VS 4c	2
72	Dusty Rib	MS	6
73	The Slab Climb Variation	S 4a *	136

	Climb name	Grade	x

74	The Slab Climb	S 4a **	264
75	Central Route	HVS 5a	79
76	Wall and Ledge	D ***	331
77	Ridge Route	HVD	97
78	Ridge Route Right Hand	HVS 5a	31
79	Wall and Ledge Variant	HVD *	39
80	Concave Wall	HVS 5b ***	129
81	Mousehole Gully	M	63
82	Mousehole Gully (outside route)	VD	19
83	Garfit Eliminate	E1 5b *	6
84	Lemming Slab	E4 5c	13
85	Ali Baba	E2 5c **	56
86	Sesame	E1 5b *	11
87	Cissam	E3 5c	1
88	Virgin Wall	VS 5a	13
89	Virgin Wall Direct Start	E1 5c	4
90	Turkish Delight	E1 5b	2
91	Lofty's Ease	HD	18
92	Tom Thumb	D	28
93	Girdle Traverse	E2	1
94	The Path	none 5c	2
95	Left Arete (The Slab boulder).	none 4c *	11
96	Rock On	V2 5c *	10
97	Monolith	f6C	2
98	Centre Route	V3 6a	9
99	Centre Route (with chipped holds)	none 5b	13
100	Right Arete	none 5a *	20
101	Layback Crack	none 5a *	5
102	Old Wall	none 4c	17
103	No Hands Slab - Right Edge	M	24
104	No Hands Slab - Left Edge	D	17
105	Hands On	none 4c	16
106	Abutment	none 4a	11
107	The Finger	V11 7a	1
108	South Wall	none 5a	5
109	DO	none 5b *	3
110	The Wayside	VD	6
111	The Good Samaritan	MVS 4b	5
112	The Crack	V0+ 5b *	63
113	The Crackless	none 5b	8
114	Fingers	V1 5b	27
115	Super Crackless	V3	4
116	Arete ('A' Boulder)	none 5a	34
117	Slab ('A' Boulder)	M	31
118	Slab Right Hand ('A' Boulder)	VD	28
119	Pebble Climb	V3 6a **	27
120	Pebble Climb Right Hand	V5 6b?	3
121	Pebble-less Dyno	V6 **	1
122	'A' Route	none 5b	27
123	Normal Route	VD	22
124	Arête Route ('B' Boulder)	VD *	17
125	Redhead's Roof	none 6a	3
126	Slab ('B' Boulder)	HD *	17
127	The Shelf	V2 5c	20
128	Slanting Crack	none 4c	1
129	The Arete-Left Side	none 5b *	1
130	The Arete-Right Side	none 4c	1
131	The Gash	S *	2
132	Bread Line	none 5b *	3
133	Beneath the Breadline	f6C+ *	1
134	Daily Bread	f6C+ *	2
135	Fade To Grey	f7A	3
136	Southern Slab	D	11
137	Southern Nose	V0+ 5a	19
138	Siamese Twin	V0- 4c *	15
139	The Prow	f7A ***	11
140	For Liechtenstein	f7A *	4
141	Heel On	V2 5c	1
142	Alum Hinkes	E1 5b	2
143	Steel Fingers (wainstones)	font 5+	1
144	Temper Arete	font 4+	1
145	Slabs And Ledges *	E1 5b *	1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Lost Earth Adventures
York, NORTH YORKSHIRE
"Lost Earth Adventures provides rock climbing and hillwalking guiding and instruction across Northern England and Wales. We are also an adventure travel company..."
www.lostearthadventures.co.uk

Advertise here

Access notes
Park at the top of Hasty Bank on the B1257 around 3 mi south of Broughton. Take the forestry track leading up and west for 30 minutes past Raven's Scar to a second stile. Cross this and head up to the obvious

pinnacles. Alternatively walk over the top of Hasty Bank using the Cleveland Way which passes down through the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Sam Marks

USER FEEDBACK

Surely the best crag in the area. Well varied routes with something for everyone, and the sandstone's mostly hard. There's a good cave for storing gear/sheltering from showers in too. It's just by groove and crack if I remember rightly. Good views and a pleasant walk in add to the quality of the crag.
Jack Graham

- 06/Oct/11

Fantastic moors crag and clearly popular! My first time seeing polish on a moors crag. The sphinx nose traverse is a superb route, no wonder its the wainstones classic! and suprisingly unpolished. A great setting too!
Sam Marks - 30/May/11

Our best local crag. Really good for all grades, some routes are poorly protected, but a great setting.
Franco cookson - 23/Oct/07

Some of the grades seem a bit parsimonious by modern standards - routes are not always that easy to protect - the last few moves on Sphinx Nose Traverse areparticularly exciting in the wet!
allmag - 16/Aug/07

USER PHOTO GALLERY
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