Wainstones

Climbs 158 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 380m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The crag lies at the end of a ridge overlooking a col - making it often windy, but also quick to dry. There is some excellent bouldering beneath the crag. Recommended: Sphinx Nose Traverse (S), concave Wall (HVS), Wall and Ledge (D), Little Bo Peep (VS), Ali Baba (E2/3).

Access notes
Park at the top of Hasty Bank on the B1257 around 3 mi south of Broughton. Take the forestry track leading up and west for 30 minutes past Raven's Scar to a second stile. Cross this and head up to the obvious

pinnacles. Alternatively walk over the top of Hasty Bank using the Cleveland Way which passes down through the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering (2014), Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Broughton RidgeVD 28
2Bench Mark CrackHS 4b *44
3Bench Mark WallE1 6a 5
4Psycho SyndicateE4 6b *4
5Tiny's Arete DirectHVS 5b *14
6Tiny's DilemmaS 4b *63
7Tiny's Dilemma VariationHVS 5a *53
8Low Level Traversenone 6a 1
9Rookery NookVD 50
10Morning WallS 4a *106
11Milky WayD 16
12Evening WallVD 22
13Green WallHS 4c 20
14Sheep Walk SlabM *31
15Sheep Walk Slab (variation start)D 12
16Flake, Wall and CrackHS 4b 29
17Solomon's PorchHS 4b 28
18LurchVS 5a 13
19Humpty DumptyVD 33
20NovitiateM 14
21Steeple GrooveHVD *42
22Steeple FaceE1 5b *16
23Steeple ChimneyVD *50
24Centre FoldHVS 5c 6
25Chop Yat RidgeS 4a *43
26Chop Yat Ridge - Direct FinishHVS 5b **3
27Steeple GapM 36
28Main RouteD *96
29North RouteE1 5a **43
30West Face DirectE4 6b *3
31West Face Low Level Traversenone 5c 1
32The GirdleVD 4
33Bird LimeE3 5c *4
34Bird Lime - Variation StartE3 5c ** 
35Little Bo-PeepVS 4b **153
36Miss MuffetVS 4c *30
37On FormE1 5b 6
38Summit CrisisE2 5c *1
39CantileverVD *27
40Peel OutE4 6b 3
41Ling ButtressS 4a **308
42Ling AreteHVS 5a 10
43Groove and CrackS 4a *237
44Ling CornerHS 4a *115
45Falcon RibD 42
46West Sphinx ClimbE2 5b **32
47West Sphinx DirectE3 5b ***58
48Direct StartE2 5c *4
49Direct Start - VariationE3 6a  
50Black NightE5 6c 3
51TerroristE4 5c *13
52Walk on the Wild SideE3 5c 10
53East Sphinx DirectHVS 5a *134
54Left Hand VariationE2 5c 5
55East Sphinx ClimbHVD *135
56Sphinx Nose TraverseS 4a ***434
57Traverse of the God'sE2 5b 2
58PipD 23
59SqueekVD 16
60WilfredHD 20
61Curving WallVD 12
62Jackdaw RidgeHVD *136
63Jackdaw WallE2 6a 11
64Jackdaw GullyD *213
65ChristopherHS 4b *233
66Christopher DirectVS 4c 35
67The Bulge (Super Direct)E2 5b 14
68Wilson's GrooveE3 6a  
69The BulgeVS 4c *42
70The Bulge DirectVS 4b 15
71The Bulge Low Level Traversenone 5c 1
72Christopher/Bulge ComboVS 4c 3
73Dusty RibMS 10
74The Slab Climb VariationS 4a *167
75The Slab ClimbHS 4b 329
76Central RouteHVS 5b *95
77Wall and LedgeVD **421
78Ridge RouteS 4a 128
79Ridge Route Right HandHVS 5a 39
80Wall and Ledge VariantHVD *49
81Concave WallHVS 5b **172
82Mousehole GullyD 79
83Mousehole Gully (outside route)VD 25
84Garfit EliminateE1 5b *8
85Lemming SlabE4 5c *13
86Ali BabaE2 5c ***64
87SesameE2 5b *11
88CissamE3 5c 1
89Virgin WallVS 5a 18
90Virgin Wall Direct StartE1 5c 5
91Turkish DelightE1 5b 2
92Lofty's EaseS 4a 25
93Tom ThumbD 32
94Girdle TraverseE2 1
95The Pathnone 5c 2
96Left Arete (The Slab boulder).none 4c *13
97Rock OnV2 5c *14
98Monolithf6C 3
99Centre RouteV3 6a 12
100Centre Route (with chipped holds)none 5b 20
101Right Aretenone 5a *27
102Layback Cracknone 5a *10
103Old Wallnone 4c 22
104No Hands Slab - Right EdgeM 28
105No Hands Slab - Left EdgeD 22
106Hands Onnone 4c 17
107Abutmentnone 4a 13
108The FingerV11 7a 2
109South Wallnone 5a 6
110DOnone 5b *4
111The WaysideVD 7
112The Good SamaritanMVS 4b 5
113The CrackV0+ 5b *75
114The Cracklessnone 5b 8
115FingersV1 5b 33
116Super CracklessV3 4
117Arete ('A' Boulder)none 5a 38
118Slab ('A' Boulder)M 34
119Slab Right Hand ('A' Boulder)VD 31
120Pebble ClimbV3 6a **35
121Pebble Climb Right HandV5 6b? 5
122Pebble-less DynoV6 **2
123'A' Routenone 5b 31
124Normal RouteVD 24
125Arête Route ('B' Boulder)VD *19
126Redhead's Roofnone 6a 4
127Slab ('B' Boulder)HD *21
128The ShelfV2 5c 25
129Slanting Cracknone 4c 1
130The Arete-Left Sidenone 5b *3
131The Arete-Right Sidenone 4c 1
132The GashS *5
133Bread Linenone 5b *6
134Beneath the Breadlinef6C+ *4
135Daily Breadf6C+ *9
136Fade To Greyf7A 5
137Southern SlabD 15
138Southern NoseV0+ 5a 22
139Siamese TwinV0- 4c *17
140The Prowf7A ***18
141For Liechtensteinf7A *5
142Heel OnV2 5c 1
143Steel Fingers (wainstones)f5+ 3
144Temper Aretef4+ 2
145Slabs And Ledges *E1 5b * 
146Cave Route *HVD 3
147Lofty's Ease - Left SideVS 5a * 
148West Face *f6B 1
149Black Sheep *VD 1
150Shepherd's Wall *S 1
151KOD *f6C 1
152Old Wall SS *f7A+ **1
153Button It *f6B+ 1
154Sloper Motion *f6A 1
155Loaf Traverse *f4 1
156The Loaf Direct *f3 1
157The Loaf Direct (Sit Start) *f6B *1
158The Monster *f6A 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Sam Marks

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Signs currently asking people not to use the forestry track due to erosion. In this weather it's a muddy nightmare anyway, so heading along the top via the Cleveland Way is the best option at the moment.
Dave 88 - 23/Feb/14
Surely the best crag in the area. Well varied routes with something for everyone, and the sandstone's mostly hard. There's a good cave for storing gear/sheltering from showers in too. It's just by groove and crack if I remember rightly. Good views and a pleasant walk in add to the quality of the crag.
Jack Graham - 06/Oct/11
Fantastic moors crag and clearly popular! My first time seeing polish on a moors crag. The sphinx nose traverse is a superb route, no wonder its the wainstones classic! and suprisingly unpolished. A great setting too!
Sam Marks - 30/May/11
Our best local crag. Really good for all grades, some routes are poorly protected, but a great setting.
Franco cookson - 23/Oct/07
Some of the grades seem a bit parsimonious by modern standards - routes are not always that easy to protect - the last few moves on Sphinx Nose Traverse areparticularly exciting in the wet!
allmag - 16/Aug/07
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 18/Apr/2012
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