Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Paul Wilkie seconding The sphinx nose traverse © Russell Lovett
The crag lies at the end of a ridge overlooking a col - making it often windy, but also quick to dry. There is some excellent bouldering beneath the crag. Recommended: Sphinx Nose Traverse (S), concave Wall (HVS), Wall and Ledge (D), Little Bo Peep (VS), Ali Baba (E2/3).
Park at the top of Hasty Bank on the B1257 around 3 mi south of Broughton. Take the forestry track leading up and west for 30 minutes past Raven's Scar to a second stile. Cross this and head up to the obvious
pinnacles. Alternatively walk over the top of Hasty Bank using the Cleveland Way which passes down through the crag.
|Signs currently asking people not to use the forestry track due to erosion. In this weather it's a muddy nightmare anyway, so heading along the top via the Cleveland Way is the best option at the moment.|
Dave 88 - 23/Feb/14
|Surely the best crag in the area. Well varied routes with something for everyone, and the sandstone's mostly hard. There's a good cave for storing gear/sheltering from showers in too. It's just by groove and crack if I remember rightly. Good views and a pleasant walk in add to the quality of the crag.|
Jack Graham - 06/Oct/11
|Fantastic moors crag and clearly popular! My first time seeing polish on a moors crag. The sphinx nose traverse is a superb route, no wonder its the wainstones classic! and suprisingly unpolished. A great setting too!|
Sam Marks - 30/May/11
|Our best local crag. Really good for all grades, some routes are poorly protected, but a great setting. |
Franco cookson - 23/Oct/07
|Some of the grades seem a bit parsimonious by modern standards - routes are not always that easy to protect - the last few moves on Sphinx Nose Traverse areparticularly exciting in the wet!|
allmag - 16/Aug/07