Wainstones

Climbs 150 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 380m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The crag lies at the end of a ridge overlooking a col - making it often windy, but also quick to dry. There is some excellent bouldering beneath the crag. Recommended: Sphinx Nose Traverse (S), concave Wall (HVS), Wall and Ledge (D), Little Bo Peep (VS), Ali Baba (E2/3).

Access notes
Park at the top of Hasty Bank on the B1257 around 3 mi south of Broughton. Take the forestry track leading up and west for 30 minutes past Raven's Scar to a second stile. Cross this and head up to the obvious

pinnacles. Alternatively walk over the top of Hasty Bank using the Cleveland Way which passes down through the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Broughton RidgeVD
2Bench Mark CrackHS 4b *
3Bench Mark WallE1 6a
4Psycho SyndicateE5 6c **
5Tiny's Arete DirectHVS 5b *
6Tiny's DilemmaHVS 5a
7Tiny's Dilemma VariationVD
8Low Level Traversenone 6a
9Rookery NookD
10Morning WallMS 4a *
11Milky WayD
12Evening WallVD
13Green WallHS 4b
14Sheep Walk SlabM *
15Sheep Walk Slab (variation start)D
16Flake, Wall and CrackHS 4b
17Solomon's PorchS 4a
18LurchVS 4b
19Humpty DumptyD
20NovitiateM
21Steeple GrooveD
22Steeple FaceHVS 5b *
23Steeple ChimneyVD *
24Centre FoldHVS 5c
25Chop Yat RidgeVD
26Chop Yat Ridge - Direct FinishHVS 5b **
27Steeple GapM
28Main RouteM *
29North RouteHVS 5b
30West Face DirectE4 6b *
31West Face Low Level Traversenone 5c
32The GirdleVD
33Bird LimeE3 5c *
34Bird Lime - Variation StartE3 5c **
35Little Bo-PeepVS 4b **
36Miss MuffetVS 4c *
37On FormE1 5b
38Summit CrisisE2 5c *
39CantileverD
40Peel OutE4 6b
41Ling ButtressHS 4b **
42Ling AreteHVS 5a
43Groove and CrackHVD *
44Ling CornerS 4a
45Falcon RibD
46West Sphinx ClimbE2 5b *
47West Sphinx DirectE3 5b **
48Direct StartE2 5c *
49Direct Start - VariationE3 6a
50Black NightE7 6c
51TerroristE4 5c *
52Walk on the Wild SideE3 5c
53East Sphinx DirectVS 5a
54Left Hand VariationE2 5c
55East Sphinx ClimbHVD *
56Sphinx Nose TraverseS 4a ***
57Traverse of the God'sE2 5b
58PipD
59SqueekVD
60WilfredHD
61Curving WallVD
62Jackdaw RidgeVD *
63Jackdaw WallE2 6a
64Jackdaw GullyM *
65ChristopherVS 4b **
66Christopher DirectVS 4c
67The Bulge (Super Direct)E1 5b
68Wilson's GrooveE3 6a
69The BulgeVS 4c *
70The Bulge DirectVS 4b
71The Bulge Low Level Traversenone 5c
72Christopher/Bulge ComboVS 4c
73Dusty RibMS
74The Slab Climb VariationS 4a *
75The Slab ClimbS 4a **
76Central RouteHVS 5a
77Wall and LedgeD ***
78Ridge RouteHVD
79Ridge Route Right HandHVS 5a
80Wall and Ledge VariantHVD *
81Concave WallHVS 5b ***
82Mousehole GullyM
83Mousehole Gully (outside route)VD
84Garfit EliminateE1 5b *
85Lemming SlabE4 5c
86Ali BabaE2 5c **
87SesameE1 5b *
88CissamE3 5c
89Virgin WallVS 5a
90Virgin Wall Direct StartE1 5c
91Turkish DelightE1 5b
92Lofty's EaseHD
93Tom ThumbD
94Girdle TraverseE2
95The Pathnone 5c
96Left Arete (The Slab boulder).none 4c *
97Rock OnV2 5c *
98Monolithf6C
99Centre RouteV3 6a
100Centre Route (with chipped holds)none 5b
101Right Aretenone 5a *
102Layback Cracknone 5a *
103Old Wallnone 4c
104No Hands Slab - Right EdgeM
105No Hands Slab - Left EdgeD
106Hands Onnone 4c
107Abutmentnone 4a
108The FingerV11 7a
109South Wallnone 5a
110DOnone 5b *
111The WaysideVD
112The Good SamaritanMVS 4b
113The CrackV0+ 5b *
114The Cracklessnone 5b
115FingersV1 5b
116Super CracklessV3
117Arete ('A' Boulder)none 5a
118Slab ('A' Boulder)M
119Slab Right Hand ('A' Boulder)VD
120Pebble ClimbV3 6a **
121Pebble Climb Right HandV5 6b?
122Pebble-less DynoV6 **
123'A' Routenone 5b
124Normal RouteVD
125Arête Route ('B' Boulder)VD *
126Redhead's Roofnone 6a
127Slab ('B' Boulder)HD *
128The ShelfV2 5c
129Slanting Cracknone 4c
130The Arete-Left Sidenone 5b *
131The Arete-Right Sidenone 4c
132The GashS *
133Bread Linenone 5b *
134Beneath the Breadlinef6C+ *
135Daily Breadf6C+ *
136Fade To Greyf7A
137Southern SlabD
138Southern NoseV0+ 5a
139Siamese TwinV0- 4c *
140The Prowf7A ***
141For Liechtensteinf7A *
142Heel OnV2 5c
143Steel Fingers (wainstones)f5+
144Temper Aretef4+
145Slabs And Ledges *E1 5b *
146Cave Route *HVD
147Lofty's Ease - Left SideVS 5a *
148West Face *f6B
149Black Sheep *VD
150Shepherd's Wall *S
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Sam Marks

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Signs currently asking people not to use the forestry track due to erosion. In this weather it's a muddy nightmare anyway, so heading along the top via the Cleveland Way is the best option at the moment.
Dave 88 - 23/Feb/14
Surely the best crag in the area. Well varied routes with something for everyone, and the sandstone's mostly hard. There's a good cave for storing gear/sheltering from showers in too. It's just by groove and crack if I remember rightly. Good views and a pleasant walk in add to the quality of the crag.
Jack Graham - 06/Oct/11
Fantastic moors crag and clearly popular! My first time seeing polish on a moors crag. The sphinx nose traverse is a superb route, no wonder its the wainstones classic! and suprisingly unpolished. A great setting too!
Sam Marks - 30/May/11
Our best local crag. Really good for all grades, some routes are poorly protected, but a great setting.
Franco cookson - 23/Oct/07
Some of the grades seem a bit parsimonious by modern standards - routes are not always that easy to protect - the last few moves on Sphinx Nose Traverse areparticularly exciting in the wet!
allmag - 16/Aug/07
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 18/Apr/2012

Photo Gallery

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Leeds, WEST YORKSHIRE
Dedicated centre.
"The Climbing Hundreds of problems will make up circuits for all abilities with the grade ranging from v0 through to v12. Over 200 problems exist with new..."
theclimbingdepot.com