Climbs 187
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces W

Paul Wilkie seconding The sphinx nose traverse © Russell Lovett

Crag features

The crag lies at the end of a ridge overlooking a col - making it often windy, but also quick to dry. There is some excellent bouldering beneath the crag. Recommended: Sphinx Nose Traverse (S), concave Wall (HVS), Wall and Ledge (D), Little Bo Peep (VS), Ali Baba (E2/3).

Approach notes

Park at the top of Hasty Bank on the B1257 around 3 mi south of Broughton. Take the forestry track leading up and west for 30 minutes past Raven's Scar to a second stile. Cross this and head up to the obvious

pinnacles. Alternatively walk over the top of Hasty Bank using the Cleveland Way which passes down through the crag.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering (2014)

Out of print:
Signs currently asking people not to use the forestry track due to erosion. In this weather it's a muddy nightmare anyway, so heading along the top via the Cleveland Way is the best option at the moment.
Dave 88 - 23/Feb/14
Surely the best crag in the area. Well varied routes with something for everyone, and the sandstone's mostly hard. There's a good cave for storing gear/sheltering from showers in too. It's just by groove and crack if I remember rightly. Good views and a pleasant walk in add to the quality of the crag.
Jack Graham - 06/Oct/11
Fantastic moors crag and clearly popular! My first time seeing polish on a moors crag. The sphinx nose traverse is a superb route, no wonder its the wainstones classic! and suprisingly unpolished. A great setting too!
Sam Marks - 30/May/11
Our best local crag. Really good for all grades, some routes are poorly protected, but a great setting.
Franco cookson - 23/Oct/07
Some of the grades seem a bit parsimonious by modern standards - routes are not always that easy to protect - the last few moves on Sphinx Nose Traverse areparticularly exciting in the wet!
allmag - 16/Aug/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Broughton Buttress 
2Broughton RidgeVD 30
3Bench Mark CrackHS 4b *50
4Bench Mark WallE1 6a 5
5Psycho SyndicateE5 6c *5
6Tiny's Arete DirectHVS 5b *14
7Tiny's DilemmaS 4b *72
8Tiny's Dilemma VariationHVS 5a *57
9Low Level Traverse
-
none 6a 1
10Rookery NookVD 54
11Morning WallS 4a *121
12Milky Way
-
D 18
13Evening Wall
-
VD 25
14Green WallHS 4c 21
15Sheep Walk SlabM *32
16Sheep Walk Slab (variation start)
-
D 12
17Flake, Wall and CrackHS 4b 31
18Solomon's PorchHS 4b 29
19LurchVS 5a 13
20Humpty DumptyVD 34
21NovitiateM 14
 The Steeple and the Needle 
23Steeple GrooveHVD *50
24Steeple FaceE1 5b *18
25Steeple ChimneyVD *52
26Centre FoldHVS 5c 8
27Chop Yat RidgeS 4a *44
28Chop Yat Ridge - Direct FinishHVS 5b **4
29Steeple GapM 37
30Main RouteD *102
31North RouteE1 5a **43
32West Face DirectE4 6b *3
33West Face Low Level Traverse
-
none 5c 1
34The Girdle
-
VD 5
35Bird LimeE3 5c *6
36Bird Lime - Variation Start
-
E3 5c ** 
37Little Bo-PeepVS 4b **171
38Miss MuffetVS 4c *36
39On Form
-
E1 5b 9
 Summit Buttress & Ling Buttress 
41Summit CrisisE2 5c *2
42CantileverVD *28
43Peel OutE4 6b 6
44Ling ButtressS 4a **357
45Ling AreteHVS 5a 12
46Groove and CrackS 4a *271
47Ling CornerHS 4a *130
48Falcon RibD 47
 The Sphinx 
50West Sphinx ClimbE2 5b **33
51West Sphinx DirectE3 5b ***65
52Direct StartE2 5c *4
53Direct Start - Variation
-
E3 6a  
54Black NightE7 6c 1
55TerroristE4 5c *13
56Walk on the Wild SideE3 5c 11
57East Sphinx DirectHVS 5a *153
58Left Hand Variation
-
E2 5c 5
59East Sphinx ClimbHVD *142
60Sphinx Nose TraverseS 4a ***482
61Traverse of the God's
-
E2 5b 2
62Pip
-
D 23
63Squeek
-
VD 18
64Wilfred
-
HD 22
65Curving Wall
-
VD 12
 Bilsdale Buttress and Main Wall 
67Jackdaw RidgeHVD *146
68Jackdaw WallE2 6a 13
69Jackdaw GullyD *234
70ChristopherHS 4b *262
71Christopher Direct
-
VS 4c 43
72The Bulge (Super Direct)E2 5b 14
73Wilson's Groove
-
E3 6a  
74The BulgeVS 4c *44
75The Bulge Direct
-
VS 4b 15
76The Bulge Low Level Traverse
-
none 5c 1
77Christopher/Bulge Combo
-
VS 4c 3
78Dusty RibMS 10
79The Slab Climb VariationS 4a *190
80The Slab ClimbHS 4b 361
81Central RouteHVS 5b *105
82Wall and LedgeVD **474
83Ridge RouteS 4a 139
84Ridge Route Right HandHVS 5a 44
85Wall and Ledge Variant
-
HVD *52
86Concave WallHVS 5b **187
 Garfit Buttress 
88Mousehole GullyD 87
89Mousehole Gully (outside route)
-
VD 27
90Garfit EliminateE1 5b *8
91Lemming SlabE4 5c *15
92Ali BabaE2 5c ***77
93SesameE2 5b *15
94Virgin Wall/Garfit FaceHVS 5a 2
95Cissam
-
E3 5c 1
96Virgin Wall
-
VS 5a 20
97Virgin Wall Direct Start
-
E1 5c 5
98Turkish Delight
-
E1 5b 2
99Lofty's EaseS 4a 26
100Tom ThumbD 34
 Other Routes Which still need sorting 
102Girdle TraverseE2 1
103The Path
-
none 5c 3
104Left Arete (The Slab boulder).none 4c *16
105Rock OnV2 *18
106Monolithf6C 4
107Centre RouteV3 13
108Centre Route (with chipped holds)none 5b 21
109Right Aretenone 5a *28
110Layback Cracknone 5a *12
111Old Wall
-
none 4c 24
112No Hands Slab - Right Edge
-
M 33
113No Hands Slab - Left Edge
-
D 24
114Hands Onnone 4c 19
115Abutment
-
none 4a 16
116The FingerV11 3
117South Wallnone 5a 9
118DO
-
none 5b *8
119The WaysideVD 9
120The Good SamaritanMVS 4b 7
121The CrackV0+ *86
122The Cracklessnone 5b 8
123Fingers
-
V1 34
124Super CracklessV3 6
125Arete ('A' Boulder)
-
none 5a 41
126Slab ('A' Boulder)
-
M 36
127Slab Right Hand ('A' Boulder)
-
VD 32
128Pebble ClimbV3 **43
129Pebble Climb Right HandV5 5
130Pebble-less DynoV6 **2
131'A' Route
-
none 5b 36
132Normal Route
-
VD 28
133ArÍte Route ('B' Boulder)
-
VD *20
134Redhead's Roof
-
none 6a 7
135Slab ('B' Boulder)
-
HD *23
136The ShelfV2 28
137Slanting Cracknone 4c 2
138The Arete-Left Sidenone 5b *3
139The Arete-Right Sidenone 4c 1
140The GashS *6
141Bread Linenone 5b *11
142Beneath the Breadlinef6C+ *8
143Daily Breadf6C+ *11
144Fade To Greyf7A 7
145Southern Slab
-
D 16
146Southern Nose
-
V0+ 23
147Siamese Twin
-
V0- *18
148The Prowf7A ***24
149For Liechtensteinf7A *7
150Heel OnV2 1
151Steel Fingers (wainstones)
-
f5+ 5
152Temper Arete
-
f4+ 4
153Slabs And Ledges
-
E1 5b * 
154Cave RouteHVD 3
155Lofty's Ease - Left SideVS 5a * 
156West Facef6B 2
157Black SheepVD 1
158Shepherd's WallS 1
159KOD
-
f6C 3
160Old Wall SS
-
f7A+ **2
161Button It
-
f6B+ 2
162Sloper Motion
-
f6A 1
163Loaf Traverse
-
f4 3
164The Loaf Direct
-
f3 2
165The Loaf Direct (Sit Start)f6B *4
166The Monsterf6A 2
167Cruel intentionsf7C ** 
168You've PulledV6 6
169Temper ArÍte SS
-
f6B 2
170Lifeline SS
-
f6A+ 1
171DOK
-
f6A+ 3
172DOK direct SS
-
f6B+ 1
173Airbag
-
f6A+ 1
174The road to Jericho SS
-
f6A+ 2
175It only gets better SS
-
f6C 2
176The Palmistf6A 2
177The trickf6A 3
178Slabbinessf6A+ 2
179Fruit Machinef6B+ 3
180The Frogf6B 2
181Dead Pointf6C 1
182'DO'f6B+ 1
183Rockyf6A 3
184Alan's Friendf6C 1
185Tyrannosaurus Alanf6C+ 1
186Steel Fingers SDSf6A 2
187The Crack SDSf6A+ 2
188Enigma Variationf6C 1
189Ling Corner - Variation Finish *HS 4b 2
19009 Slab And Crack *VD 4a  
191The Groove *f6B+ 1
192Jet Set *f5+ 1
193Conjoined *f4 1
194Use Your Loaf *f6B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Sam Marks