Wainstones

Climbs 160 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 380m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
The crag lies at the end of a ridge overlooking a col - making it often windy, but also quick to dry. There is some excellent bouldering beneath the crag. Recommended: Sphinx Nose Traverse (S), concave Wall (HVS), Wall and Ledge (D), Little Bo Peep (VS), Ali Baba (E2/3).

Access notes
Park at the top of Hasty Bank on the B1257 around 3 mi south of Broughton. Take the forestry track leading up and west for 30 minutes past Raven's Scar to a second stile. Cross this and head up to the obvious

pinnacles. Alternatively walk over the top of Hasty Bank using the Cleveland Way which passes down through the crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering (2014), Northern England (2008),
Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 BROUGHTON BUTTRESS  
2Broughton RidgeVD 28
3Bench Mark CrackHS 4b *44
4Bench Mark WallE1 6a 5
5Psycho SyndicateE5 6c *4
6Tiny's Arete DirectHVS 5b *14
7Tiny's DilemmaS 4b *63
8Tiny's Dilemma VariationHVS 5a *53
9Low Level Traversenone 6a 1
10Rookery NookVD 50
11Morning WallS 4a *106
12Milky WayD 16
13Evening WallVD 22
14Green WallHS 4c 20
15Sheep Walk SlabM *31
16Sheep Walk Slab (variation start)D 12
17Flake, Wall and CrackHS 4b 29
18Solomon's PorchHS 4b 28
19LurchVS 5a 13
20Humpty DumptyVD 33
21NovitiateM 14
 THE STEEPLE AND THE NEEDLE  
23Steeple GrooveHVD *42
24Steeple FaceE1 5b *16
25Steeple ChimneyVD *50
26Centre FoldHVS 5c 6
27Chop Yat RidgeS 4a *43
28Chop Yat Ridge - Direct FinishHVS 5b **3
29Steeple GapM 36
30Main RouteD *96
31North RouteE1 5a **43
32West Face DirectE4 6b *3
33West Face Low Level Traversenone 5c 1
34The GirdleVD 4
35Bird LimeE3 5c *4
36Bird Lime - Variation StartE3 5c ** 
37Little Bo-PeepVS 4b **154
38Miss MuffetVS 4c *30
39On FormE1 5b 6
 SUMMIT BUTTRESS & LING BUTTRESS  
41Summit CrisisE2 5c *1
42CantileverVD *27
43Peel OutE4 6b 3
44Ling ButtressS 4a **311
45Ling AreteHVS 5a 10
46Groove and CrackS 4a *238
47Ling CornerHS 4a *117
48Falcon RibD 42
 THE SPHINX  
50West Sphinx ClimbE2 5b **32
51West Sphinx DirectE3 5b ***58
52Direct StartE2 5c *4
53Direct Start - VariationE3 6a  
54Black NightE7 6c 3
55TerroristE4 5c *13
56Walk on the Wild SideE3 5c 10
57East Sphinx DirectHVS 5a *135
58Left Hand VariationE2 5c 5
59East Sphinx ClimbHVD *135
60Sphinx Nose TraverseS 4a ***436
61Traverse of the God'sE2 5b 2
62PipD 23
63SqueekVD 16
64WilfredHD 20
65Curving WallVD 12
 BILSDALE BUTTRESS AND MAIN WALL  
67Jackdaw RidgeHVD *136
68Jackdaw WallE2 6a 11
69Jackdaw GullyD *213
70ChristopherHS 4b *235
71Christopher DirectVS 4c 35
72The Bulge (Super Direct)E2 5b 14
73Wilson's GrooveE3 6a  
74The BulgeVS 4c *42
75The Bulge DirectVS 4b 15
76The Bulge Low Level Traversenone 5c 1
77Christopher/Bulge ComboVS 4c 3
78Dusty RibMS 10
79The Slab Climb VariationS 4a *167
80The Slab ClimbHS 4b 330
81Central RouteHVS 5b *95
82Wall and LedgeVD **421
83Ridge RouteS 4a 128
84Ridge Route Right HandHVS 5a 39
85Wall and Ledge VariantHVD *49
86Concave WallHVS 5b **173
 GARFIT BUTTRESS  
88Mousehole GullyD 79
89Mousehole Gully (outside route)VD 25
90Garfit EliminateE1 5b *8
91Lemming SlabE4 5c *13
92Ali BabaE2 5c ***64
93SesameE2 5b *11
94Virgin Wall/Garfit FaceHVS 5a  
95CissamE3 5c 1
96Virgin WallVS 5a 18
97Virgin Wall Direct StartE1 5c 5
98Turkish DelightE1 5b 2
99Lofty's EaseS 4a 25
100Tom ThumbD 32
 OTHER ROUTES WHICH STILL NEED SORTING  
102Girdle TraverseE2 1
103The Pathnone 5c 2
104Left Arete (The Slab boulder).none 4c *13
105Rock OnV2 5c *14
106Monolithf6C 3
107Centre RouteV3 6a 12
108Centre Route (with chipped holds)none 5b 20
109Right Aretenone 5a *27
110Layback Cracknone 5a *10
111Old Wallnone 4c 22
112No Hands Slab - Right EdgeM 28
113No Hands Slab - Left EdgeD 22
114Hands Onnone 4c 17
115Abutmentnone 4a 13
116The FingerV11 7a 2
117South Wallnone 5a 6
118DOnone 5b *4
119The WaysideVD 7
120The Good SamaritanMVS 4b 5
121The CrackV0+ 5b *75
122The Cracklessnone 5b 8
123FingersV1 5b 33
124Super CracklessV3 4
125Arete ('A' Boulder)none 5a 38
126Slab ('A' Boulder)M 34
127Slab Right Hand ('A' Boulder)VD 31
128Pebble ClimbV3 6a **36
129Pebble Climb Right HandV5 6b? 5
130Pebble-less DynoV6 **2
131'A' Routenone 5b 31
132Normal RouteVD 24
133Arête Route ('B' Boulder)VD *19
134Redhead's Roofnone 6a 4
135Slab ('B' Boulder)HD *21
136The ShelfV2 5c 25
137Slanting Cracknone 4c 1
138The Arete-Left Sidenone 5b *3
139The Arete-Right Sidenone 4c 1
140The GashS *5
141Bread Linenone 5b *6
142Beneath the Breadlinef6C+ *4
143Daily Breadf6C+ *9
144Fade To Greyf7A 6
145Southern SlabD 15
146Southern NoseV0+ 5a 22
147Siamese TwinV0- 4c *17
148The Prowf7A ***18
149For Liechtensteinf7A *5
150Heel OnV2 5c 1
151Steel Fingers (wainstones)f5+ 3
152Temper Aretef4+ 2
153Slabs And Ledges *E1 5b * 
154Cave Route *HVD 3
155Lofty's Ease - Left SideVS 5a * 
156West Face *f6B 1
157Black Sheep *VD 1
158Shepherd's Wall *S 1
159KOD *f6C 1
160Old Wall SS *f7A+ **1
161Button It *f6B+ 1
162Sloper Motion *f6A 1
163Loaf Traverse *f4 1
164The Loaf Direct *f3 1
165The Loaf Direct (Sit Start) *f6B *1
166The Monster *f6A 1
167Cruel intentions *f7C ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Sam Marks

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Signs currently asking people not to use the forestry track due to erosion. In this weather it's a muddy nightmare anyway, so heading along the top via the Cleveland Way is the best option at the moment.
Dave 88 - 23/Feb/14
Surely the best crag in the area. Well varied routes with something for everyone, and the sandstone's mostly hard. There's a good cave for storing gear/sheltering from showers in too. It's just by groove and crack if I remember rightly. Good views and a pleasant walk in add to the quality of the crag.
Jack Graham - 06/Oct/11
Fantastic moors crag and clearly popular! My first time seeing polish on a moors crag. The sphinx nose traverse is a superb route, no wonder its the wainstones classic! and suprisingly unpolished. A great setting too!
Sam Marks - 30/May/11
Our best local crag. Really good for all grades, some routes are poorly protected, but a great setting.
Franco cookson - 23/Oct/07
Some of the grades seem a bit parsimonious by modern standards - routes are not always that easy to protect - the last few moves on Sphinx Nose Traverse areparticularly exciting in the wet!
allmag - 16/Aug/07