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Climbs 574
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 266m a.s.l
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Tom Randall cutting loose on The Spider (8a) on Plum Buttress in Chee Dale © Mike Hutton

Crag features

The area Chee Dale Upper covers all the Chee Dale crags that would usually be approach from the Topley Pike (west) end of the dale. This includes everything from Blatant and Blackwell Halt, down through the Embankment and Two Tier to Nettle Buttress and the Nook.

Approach notes

Important Note Regarding Blatant and Blackwell Halt -

The BMC Peak Limestone North Approach notes are wrong and causing problems. There is no access allowed at any time to Blatant Buttress. Access to Blackwell Halt is also currently under discussion and no climbing is allowed.

Approach to Blackwell Halt - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharp left at the cottages and follow a small path along the edge of the river and past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

For Blatant Buttress - This is now banned. Train drivers will report you to the police if you are seen here and this could well result in a criminal conviction.

For the other sections of the dale here are the current access routes are:

Plum Buttress - Access from the railway traditionally crossed the scree slopes to the right of the buttress - this has now changed. Access is now via the obvious new stile directly beneath the crag, avoiding the ecologically sensitive scree. Descent from the buttress (if not completely topping-out) should be via the gully on the left-hand side.

The 2nd and 3rd Lifts - Descent to these crags can be achieved by abseiling down the small gully (marked by a cluster of small ash trees) next to the obvious feature of ‘Ragged Arête.’ Caution - this descent contains loose rock. An easier approach is down the DWT marked gully, which gives access to the 3rd Lift (on the left if facing outwards).

Moving Buttress - Descend the DWT marked gully, past the Pinnacle, to below the Western end of the buttress.

Long Wall - Access is by continuing at the junction past Mad Dogs area (Two Tier "right") and the gully approach as for the upper tier.

Two-Tier Buttress - Access to the Lower Tier is via the weir at the left end of the crag. Access to the upper tier is detailed in the BMC Wye Valley guidebook – ascend the easy gully right of the Mad Dogs section and descend via the ‘Sibser’ abseil.  If abseiling from the Upper Tier to the Lower Tier, most parties choose to descend below ‘Reward’. Do not abseil from any point further West than an obvious tree stump with a bolted abseil station behind it – the wet gully bordering the crag has significant ecological importance.

Nettle Buttress - Cross the river directly below the crag via a fishermen’s weir. Alternatively, if the river is in spate, access the crag just above the river via a path joining the Monsal Trail. This should be considered a last option due to the sensitive floral assemblage in this riverside habitat.

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

As per the approach notes. There’s a clear sign outside the cottages just as you’ve crossed the bridge saying it’s private land and not to cross. This could cause upset with the residents
Fraser kid - 05/Mar/21
This crag has been rebolted with P bolts and the dodgy krabs at the top replaced with malons. The time & money spent on this crag has really turned it around for me as the danger of some of the ab stations ruined the overall feel. Well done that man!! As for the climbing... its deceptively pumpy and on solid rock as far as blasted quarries go. Pretty much well worth the visit!
John_Warner - 05/Nov/07
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