Climbs 536
Rocktype Limestone

Faces all

Julian Heath, The Spider, 8a, SirPlum buttress, Cheedale © chris fox

Crag features

The area Chee Dale Upper covers all the Chee Dale crags that would usually be approach from the Topley Pike (west) end of the dale. This includes everything from Blatant and Blackwell Halt, down through the Embankment and Two Tier to Nettle Buttress and the Nook.

Approach notes

Important Note Regarding Blatant and Blackwell Halt -

The BMC Peak Limestone North Approach notes are wrong and causing problems. Follow the approach below which is the one listed in the Rockfax and it doesn't require you to cross the live railway line which is illegal and has been prompting people to call the police.

Approach to Blackwell Halt - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharp left at the cottages and follow a small path along the edge of the river and past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

For Blatant Buttress - Leave Blackwell Halt and find a small path which leads right (facing out) and down a steep drop to the side of the railway. Blatant Buttress is just along here.

For the other sections of the dale here are the current access routes are:

Plum Buttress - Access from the railway traditionally crossed the scree slopes to the right of the buttress - this has now changed. Access is now via the obvious new stile directly beneath the crag, avoiding the ecologically sensitive scree. Descent from the buttress (if not completely topping-out) should be via the gully on the left-hand side.

The 2nd and 3rd Lifts - Descent to these crags can be achieved by abseiling down the small gully (marked by a cluster of small ash trees) next to the obvious feature of ‘Ragged Arête.’ Caution - this descent contains loose rock. An easier approach is down the DWT marked gully, which gives access to the 3rd Lift (on the left if facing outwards).

Moving Buttress - Descend the DWT marked gully, past the Pinnacle, to below the Western end of the buttress.

Long Wall - Access is by continuing at the junction past Mad Dogs area (Two Tier "right") and the gully approach as for the upper tier.

Two-Tier Buttress - Access to the Lower Tier is via the weir at the left end of the crag. Access to the upper tier is detailed in the BMC Wye Valley guidebook – ascend the easy gully right of the Mad Dogs section and descend via the ‘Sibser’ abseil.  If abseiling from the Upper Tier to the Lower Tier, most parties choose to descend below ‘Reward’. Do not abseil from any point further West than an obvious tree stump with a bolted abseil station behind it – the wet gully bordering the crag has significant ecological importance.

Nettle Buttress - Cross the river directly below the crag via a fishermen’s weir. Alternatively, if the river is in spate, access the crag just above the river via a path joining the Monsal Trail. This should be considered a last option due to the sensitive floral assemblage in this riverside habitat.

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale - most of these are of negligible climbing quality.
  • Do not leave in situ crabs or tape on bolt hangars.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

 

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
This crag has been rebolted with P bolts and the dodgy krabs at the top replaced with malons. The time & money spent on this crag has really turned it around for me as the danger of some of the ab stations ruined the overall feel. Well done that man!! As for the climbing... its deceptively pumpy and on solid rock as far as blasted quarries go. Pretty much well worth the visit!
John_Warner - 05/Nov/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Blatant Buttress 
2For the Good of the Cause5a 41
3Chug, Chug, Chug6b 1
4Close to the Edge6a+ *62
5Every Breath You Take6b+ *12
6Eye Catching Cod Piece6b+ *19
7Pipistrelle6a *60
8Rave On6a 27
9Chill Out6a+ *47
10Feel the Beat6b *32
11Emission Control7a+ *8
12Wobbly Wheels7b * 
13Good Vibrations7a+ *5
14Loco-Motion7a *3
15Love is a Swallow6a+ 19
16The Runaway Train6a+ 6
17Came Down the Track6b 10
18One Track Offensive6a 7
19Burning Rails5c 9
 Blackwell Halt 
21Byte Size6b 3
22Ernie6c+ 4
23Defrag6c 6
24A Soldier's Diary6c 4
25Anoraks and Trainspotters6b 9
26Micro-nerd6b+ 6
27Nerd the Absurd6b 6
28Micro-chip6c+ 16
29Modem6a *54
30C.D. RompE2 5c *2
31The Arapahoe Connection6b+ **95
32Hard Drive6b+ *54
33Megabyte6b *68
34Gopherspace6b *81
35Windows 956b **252
36Falling Irons
-
6b *91
37Falling Icons6b *10
38She got the Bosch, I got drilled6b *61
39Waste Bin6b *109
40The Hacker6b+ *22
41E-mail6b 36
42She Mail6b 5
43No Mail6a 25
44Surfing the Net6c 1
 The Sidings 
46Glaswegian Kiss7c+ *2
47Strawberry Kiss7b *2
48Spank Me Senseless with a Wet Herring
-
VD  
49Kick the Bucket
-
E2 5b 2
50Humiliation
-
7a 1
51Get Down and Bark, Bitch
-
6b 1
52Up the CreekE5 6a  
53Hupsters7a+ *5
54Fizzy6c+ *22
55SleepersHVS 5a 15
56Lust in the DustE1 5b 6
57Platonic DesireE1 5c *6
58Spring is HereHVS 5a 5
59Firefly
-
HVS 4c 2
60I Drink Therefore I AmE4 6b *10
61The Dukes of HazardE5 6c *4
62County TimeE3 5c  
63A Touch Too MuchE1 5b 6
64Puffing BillyVS 4b **48
65A Sign of the TimesVS 4c 14
66Sprint StartE1 5a *30
67Lethal DoseE3 6b *23
68Fame But No FortuneE2 5c 15
69Fireman's FrolicD 5
70Visible Void *E1 5a 1
71Unzipping the Wild Physique
-
4c 4
72Attack the GhostHVS 5a 1
73Bone and GlobeHVS 5a 2
74Crowd Burst
-
HVS 4c 2
 The Embankment 
76Rampant
-
S 5
77The World According to Tommy Trout6c+ 5
78Hungry Eyes7a+ **187
79Beef It7b *110
80Secret Gudgeon Society7b **87
81Stone the Loach7c **138
82Mind of a Turbot7b *129
83The Man Who Fell to Earth6c+ *205
84Arachonothera
-
6b *217
85Arachonothera Direct6b+ *255
86Prawnography6c *275
87Bream in Black7a+ *240
88Breamtime7a+ *104
89The Barracuda Bass Sound7a+ *80
90Pump Up The Bass7a+ 9
91No Hiding Plaice7a+ **123
92Sturgeon in the Cupboard7c **135
93Whiting on the Wall7c 3
94The Black WidowE1 5b 2
95Silence of the Clams7a *17
96Over the Rainbow Trout6c+ *37
97Future Paradox
-
E3 6a  
98Night of the Guppy7b *9
99Lamprey on Ice7a+ 4
100The Red SpiderE3 5c  
101The Zander Welfare Club7b *2
102Red Snapper Meets the Dog Fish7a+ *3
103Name That Tuna7b+ *1
104Garfish Serenade7a+ 2
105The Open SecretE5 6b *6
106Fragile EarthE5 6b  
107Something Fishy7c  
108Fishing Without a Licence7c **8
109Barefoot in a Pool of Sharks7b+ **6
110Kiss the Mackerel7c *1
111The Life of a Stickleback7b+ 1
112Minnows as a Substitute for White Bait6c *4
 Max Wall 
114Mix and Match6a 29
115Maximum Potential6a 12
116MaxiHVS 5a 1
117Pepsi Max6c+ 10
118Max FactorE2 5b *10
119Max Head Room7a **310
120Max WallE5 6a *10
121Max Pax 'em In7a **297
122Max 'is Wall6c **303
123Lunatic Fringe6c+ *149
124Black MaxE1 5b 10
125 Max Pact6b *544
126 Max Pact Indirect6a+ *144
127 The Max Works6c+ **232
128Max to the Wall7a+ **186
129Incandescent CourageE6 6a * 
130Max-a-Million7b *42
131AfterlifeE6 6b * 
132Maxonomy7a+ *20
133Max Museum7b **54
134Maxwell House7b+ *13
135Rough Justice7c *6
136A Bigger Max7b+ *1
137The Max They Love To Hate7b 1
138Dream Thief7a+ 3
139Orgasimus Maximus
-
HVS 5a  
140Tyrannosaurus MaxE3 5c *7
141MaxativeE3 5c  
142Let the Max Increase7b 1
143Krankius Maximus7b+ 1
144Max's MumE3 6a  
145Maxing Around7a+  
146Maximuscle7b+ * 
147Micromax
-
E3 6a  
148Dinosaurs Don't Max
-
E4 6b 1
149Value Added Max
-
E4 6b  
150Max Museum StartV3 **1
 The Nook 
152Perverted Mind
-
E2 5c 2
153Fuck Pig
-
E2 5c 3
154Eddy's First
-
E2 6a  
155The Dukes of Earl (Grey)7c 1
156Michael Foot Jam7c+ **3
157A Cure for Foot Jams7b+ *2
158A Cure For Arapiles7b+  
159Kalymnos 8a7a+ *4
160Santiano7a+ **13
161The Mighty Wind7b+ * 
162Rock Umbrella7b *2
163The Storm7b+ *9
164A Bit of Nookie8a+ *3
165The Lockless Monster7c+ **35
166Theoria8a+ *3
167There's Life in the Old Log Yet7c * 
168Z.G.S.
-
E3 6b  
169New Enemies
-
E3 6b 2
170Powerplay
-
E3 6b  
171Zebedee Gets Syphilis
-
E3 6b 1
172Phil's RouteE2 5c **2
 Nettle Buttress 
174Personal Voyage7a  
175Back to Basics
-
6c+  
176Totonic
-
7a+  
177Snail Mail6b 1
178Schickster groove
-
E1 5c  
179Harmonious Harmonica6c  
180Symmetrical Systems6b  
181Balanced Ballistics6b 5
182SuryanamaskerE5 6b  
183Long Dead Train7b *5
184Stuffed BadgerE5 6b **4
185Brock the startf7B ***1
186Badged StufferE5 6b * 
187Summer WineE5 6a ***8
188The Eve SyndromeE5 6c  
189First LightE2 5b **17
190Epidavros6b+ *16
191Rob's Dilemma
-
HVS 5b 1
192Light Ideas6c *14
193Stravandrabellagola7b *3
194Esmerelda7b+ *21
195Esmerunga7c **11
196Stung7b+ **56
197Ouch!7b+ *1
198Major Incontinence
-
E5 6c  
199General IncompetanceE7 6b ** 
200Toys for the Boys7c+ ***41
201No LightE3 5c **8
202Subterra7b *24
203Terra IncognitaE5 6b ** 
204Gobblin' Women6b+ 35
205Little Girl Eater/Fish-u-like6b 24
206Fishlock6b+ *46
207Kakaho6a+ 38
208Cock-a-hoop6a 19
209Bursting Out6c *7
 Two Tier Buttress 
 Two Tier - Left 
212Home From Home
-
E5 6b 1
213Another Brick in the Wall7b+  
214Osher, Osher, Osher7a+  
215The Bride and the Groom6c+ *2
216The Burqa King7b  
217The Incredible Pierre7a+ * 
218Short Sharp & Sweet8a 1
219Short Sharp Shock7c * 
220Pour Dill7c *15
221Open Gate7a+ ***158
222Case Adjourned7a **167
223Smelting Point6c 8
224ThothE1 5b 4
225Cockerel Cry6c+ *2
226Jackson's Browned Off6c 10
227Running on EmptyE5 6a 1
228Just Pullet7a+ 1
229Evidently Chickentown7c *1
230Poultry in Motion7b+ 1
231Mega-Bites7b *24
232Systems Malfunction7b **99
233Reboot7c+ *1
234Titter Ye Not8a *9
235Offal
-
E3 6a  
236Waffle7b+ 1
237MalnutritionE4 6a *16
238Ghee Force
-
E4 6b 1
239Split InfinitiveE5 6c  
240Isolate
-
E4 6b 3
241Nerefaun
-
E5 6c  
242Stolen Fruit
-
E5 6b 2
 Two Tier - Centre 
244Stogumber Club7c *3
245Entrée8a **19
246Kali Yuga8b ***11
247Flow8a+ **9
248Countdown7a+ ***224
249Darl - Pitch 17a ***265
250Why Me?7c **80
251Orange Sunshine7c+ **27
252Orange SuntanProject  
253Boring7c  
254Ninth LifeE7 6c **4
255Daylight Robbery7b **127
256RaE4 6a 7
257The Cruise Brothers7a+ *12
258Some Coincidence7a+ 15
259Rising Sap6b+ 173
260OsirisE2 5a 1
261Subterfuge6b+ *323
262Quality Control7a **413
263Nogads7b+ *20
264Blockhead7b **140
265Reasons to be Cheerful7b+ 9
266The Inbetweenies7a+ *28
267Wot a Waste6c+ 1
268Tippers6c+ 1
269The TrapHS 1
 Secteur Nadin 
271The Chicken RunHVS 5a *31
272Chicken Run Black Flake FinishHVS 5a 6
273The Rooster in the Hen House6b+ *26
274GoldfingerE2 6a *26
275The Flight of IcarusE6 6b **1
276Aberration8a **56
277Celebration7c ***55
278Minos7c+ **24
279Buster8a+ *1
280Gonads8a+ **3
281Ultralight8a+ **3
282Seven Pounds Overweight8a 3
283Lightweight7c **33
284Lightweight (Spizz Energy finish)
-
7b+ **6
285Spizz EnergyE5 6b ***17
286Spazz Energy7a+ *49
287A Touch of ClassE4 6a **5
288Mad Dogs and EnglishmenE3 5c ***100
289Machineries of Joy - Pitch 1E1 5b *25
290Ape Index
-
E5 6c  
291Within Reach6c *14
 Two-tier Upper 
293Laurels for Hardy7b+ *1
294In Tiers8b+  
295Darl - Pitch 27a+ **30
296Hardcore Junkie8b * 
297Hardcore Junkie (righthand)
-
8a+ 1
298Welcome to My World8a *5
299The Curse of the Mummy8a *6
300A Vision of Loveliness7c+ **14
301A Picture of Perfection8a *3
302Recycled7c+ ** 
303The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag7b+ ***61
304The Tier Drop X-plodes7c+ **3
305Reward7b **16
306Monster Mouse Resurgent6c+ *40
307Aggrieved6c+ 3
308Disjointed Might
-
E5 6a  
309Sibser7b+  
310Nervous Breakdown7b+ **1
311Communication Breakdown7c+ ** 
312Total Breakdown7c+ *** 
 Vista Wall 
314Machineries of Joy (P2)
-
E1 5b *6
315Kill Your Television
-
6c 5
316Decade to Decayed
-
6c+ 5
317Nu Vista
-
7a 1
318Eggs, Bacon, Coffee and Suicide
-
7b 3
319Superstring7c *1
320Dizzy
-
7c+  
321Big Jesus Trashcan
-
6c+ 2
322Alta Vista
-
6a+ 2
323Speedmetal Bedmoshin'
-
6b 6
324Hasta la Vista
-
6c+ 1
325Aah Vista
-
6b+ 1
 Long Wall 
327Super orchid7b  
328Columnus7b+  
329Banana Republic
-
E2 5c 1
330The Orange Order6c  
331Orange Free State6b+ 2
332Berried6c *1
333Black Rights7b *3
334High Society7a **35
335Kiss Me Hardy7a+ ***80
336Kiss My Arcy7b **9
337Mystical Attainment7b+ *3
338Mouldwarp Wall7c *1
339Brothers in Arms7b+ *5
340Rouge Total7b *3
341Total Rock7c * 
342Jungle Rock7b+ *15
343Some Things Change7b+ *2
344Fatal Attraction7a **22
345Lucky Finger7b * 
346Rolling Stone
-
E4 6b  
347The Balancing Act7a+ * 
348Trick Show7b+  
349Casamance7a+ 1
350Macumba7a+  
351FreewayE1 5a 1
352Titanic7b+ **2
353Big News Manmouth7c **2
354North Atlantic Drift8a **1
355Atlantic Realm7c+ **2
356Atlantic Realm (pre rock fall)7b+ *4
357Gob on the Mountain7c *3
358Gobstopper7c *1
359Meterol7b+ **4
360BreathlessE6 6c * 
361Cathedral Taste7b+ **3
362A Bout de Souffle7c **2
363MultiplexE4 6b **4
364Child Lock7a+ *9
365Smutt
-
E5 6c  
366Steaming Strides7a+ 1
367Hot Panties7a *14
368Nookie Bear7a+ 2
369Child's PlayE4 6a *2
370Skid Marks
-
6b+ 4
371Watch This Space6c 2
 Runyons Corner 
373The Decapitator
-
HVS 5b  
374Local VortexE3 6b  
375Overslapped7a * 
376Kill the Bill7b+  
377Robert's Roberts7a+ 1
378Underslapped7a *2
379Thunderstrapped
-
7a 1
380Slappy Happy Chappy7a 1
381Thunderstrapped7a  
382Overclapped7a  
383Megaflapped6c 4
384Runyonectomy6b 1
385Waldo Winchester
-
VS 4a  
386More Than SomewhatS 1
387The Jury's Out6b+ 3
388The Fifth Amendment6c 1
389Big Butch
-
VS 4c  
390Seldom Seen
-
VS 4c 2
391Nathan Detroit
-
VS 4c 1
392Community Service6c+ *2
393Open Verdict7a+ *1
394In the Defence6c 4
395Smash, Bang, Wallop
-
E1 5b  
396Harry the Horse
-
HVS 5a  
397Spanish John
-
VS 4b  
398Little Isadore
-
S 2
399For the Prosecution6c 2
400Guilty6c 4
401The Plea6a+ *8
402Witness This6c+ 2
403Franky Ferocious
-
VS 4c  
404Educated Edmund
-
VS 4c  
405Red Nosed pollination Blues
-
VS 4c  
406Regrets Groove
-
VS 4b  
407Mindy's Route
-
VS 4b 1
408No Intent6b+ 10
409As Loose As This?6c+ *7
410In the Stox7a *7
411Stax a Time7b 2
 Moving Buttress 
413Never to Look Back7b **15
414I Had a Black Shirt7a+ *8
415Protest and SurviveE4 6a *2
416Whistling CrackVS 4b *18
417Gander MeatE6 6c * 
418Dope7b+ ** 
419Spirit of the Age
-
E5 6a  
420AutonomonE1 5b *2
421Automoton7a  
422MonotonVS 4b 7
423VibratorE2 5c *7
424Witch in Stitch7b **2
425Soft Shoe
-
VS 4c  
426Shapeshifter
-
HVS 5a  
427Transit Grove
-
VS 4c 1
428Escort Crack
-
VS 4c  
429Thin LizzyE1 5b **22
430Swinging WallVS 4c 6
431A Man Called Horse7b+ * 
432DynamicE1 5c 2
433A Farewell to Arms
-
E3 6a  
434Nettle Whine
-
E3 6a  
435Still Wall
-
VS 4b 2
436OrchristVS 4c 4
437OsculationHVS 5a *8
438Yuk
-
E4 6b  
439Wise Up! Sucker ....6c+  
440Your Rotten Thoughts7a+  
441Priming the PumpE4 6a  
442Oh No! It's the Wall to Wall Birthday Party7a+ 1
443Fresh Jive7c  
444Shaking CrackE2 5b **16
445Big Boned Backside Melon7b+  
446Suicides Reprieve/McKenzie Frenzy
-
E4 6a  
447DangleberryVS 4c *21
448Thor's HammerE1 5b **18
449SocialismE3 5c * 
450ColonE1 5b *9
451Thin Thin GrooveVS 4c *21
452Calvi Corner
-
S 7
453Behaviour of Fish
-
E4 6b  
454Forgotten Dream
-
E5 6b  
455The Roaring Forties
-
E3 5c  
456QuakeE1 5b *11
457The Price of FameE4 6b  
458VibrationE1 5b *14
459Family Fortunes7a+  
460Pushed to the Hilti6c  
461Shock the MonkeyE4 6a  
462Gibbon Take6c  
 Pink Wall 
464The Trainee
-
7b+  
465Wye Train
-
7b  
466Pink
-
E1 5b  
467Tunnel Vision
-
7b+  
468Loco Motif
-
7b * 
469Steam Train
-
7b * 
470The Railway Children
-
7a+ * 
471One Track Mind
-
7a  
 The Lifts 
473Generously Cut TrousersS 2
474Mississippi Burning7a  
475Tricky Dicky6c+  
476The Black and White Minstrel Show7b  
477Rusty Lee7a * 
478Daddy's Riding the Range7a+  
479Close Control6b * 
480White Riot6a *2
481Rastus
-
HVS 4c 1
482Iron Filings6c  
483Steel on Steel7a 1
484Mettle Fatigue6c 2
485Pop the Rivet6a 1
486Fingerpops7b+  
487Crank it Up6c+ 1
488An Uplifting Experience6b+ 1
489Get LiftedE1 5b *2
490Access all Areas7a+ * 
491Elephant Talk7a+ * 
492Hamish7a  
493Five Miles High6c+ *2
494The Black EdgeE1 5b *3
495All Fall Down7a+ * 
496High Scream Sunday6c *4
497Disraeli GearsE1 5a 2
498The Siberian Hamster7a  
499ChagrinHVS 5a *3
500PhiladelphiaE1 5b 2
501Eye shadows
-
E4 5c 1
502All Made Up
-
7a+  
503Powder Puff
-
6a+  
504Uninspired
-
E4 6a * 
505Pinnaclised
-
6c  
506Ragged AreteS 4a ***20
507Succulent CornerS 4a 7
508The StingHVS 5b  
509Firefly Crack
-
VS 4c *8
510The Hoochie Koo
-
HVS 4c *4
511Cetswayo
-
VS 4b *7
512No Hammer InvolvedHVS 5a *1
513Heathenism
-
VD *1
514Paganism
-
S 3
515Idolatry Wall
-
S 1
516Tikka
-
VS 4a 4
517The TendrilS 3
518Black Leg GrooveS 2
 The Obelisk 
520Heathenism
-
VD *4
521Paganism
-
S *5
 Plum Buttress 
523Less of Your Lip
-
7b+  
524Liposuction7b+  
525A Bit Lippy7b+ 1
526A Bit On The Side6c 1
527My Secret Life7a 5
528The Wilderness Years7b+ 3
529Scratch Race7a 14
530The Massive6b+ 22
531The Super IndirectE1 5a **15
532Coca ChaloneE1 5a 1
533The StalkVS 4c **109
534AplombE1 5a ***58
535Giants6c *18
536VictoriaE3 5c 4
537Mrs Brown7c * 
538Raisin RoofE5 6b * 
539The Big Plum
-
A2 2
540The Big PlumE6 6c **1
541Damson in Distress7b+ **1
542The Spider8a ***36
543Chip Off The Old Block7c+ **1
544Sloe GinE6 6b ***1
545Sloe Gin (sport)7c **8
546SirplumE1 5b ***455
547The Plumb-line Finish
-
E1 5b 7
548The Defector
-
E2 5c 3
549Peggy Sue
-
E1 5a 3
 Topley Buttress 
551Finnieston FerryVS 4c 1
552Little Big Climb
-
7a  
553Double Topley
-
7a+  
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
555Binge DrinkerHVS  
556The Hunter House BustHVS  
557SarinHVS  
558Oscillation *VS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian