Climbs 540
Rocktype Limestone

Faces all

Julian Heath, The Spider, 8a, SirPlum buttress, Cheedale © chris fox

Crag features

The area Chee Dale Upper covers all the Chee Dale crags that would usually be approach from the Topley Pike (west) end of the dale. This includes everything from Blatant and Blackwell Halt, down through the Embankment and Two Tier to Nettle Buttress and the Nook.

Approach notes

Important Note Regarding Blatant and Blackwell Halt -

The BMC Peak Limestone North Approach notes are wrong and causing problems. Follow the approach below which is the one listed in the Rockfax and it doesn't require you to cross the live railway line which is illegal and has been prompting people to call the police.

Approach to Blackwell Halt - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharp left at the cottages and follow a small path along the edge of the river and past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

For Blatant Buttress - Leave Blackwell Halt and find a small path which leads right (facing out) and down a steep drop to the side of the railway. Blatant Buttress is just along here.

For the other sections of the dale here are the current access routes are:

Plum Buttress - Access from the railway traditionally crossed the scree slopes to the right of the buttress - this has now changed. Access is now via the obvious new stile directly beneath the crag, avoiding the ecologically sensitive scree. Descent from the buttress (if not completely topping-out) should be via the gully on the left-hand side.

The 2nd and 3rd Lifts - Descent to these crags can be achieved by abseiling down the small gully (marked by a cluster of small ash trees) next to the obvious feature of ‘Ragged Arête.’ Caution - this descent contains loose rock. An easier approach is down the DWT marked gully, which gives access to the 3rd Lift (on the left if facing outwards).

Moving Buttress - Descend the DWT marked gully, past the Pinnacle, to below the Western end of the buttress.

Long Wall - Access is by continuing at the junction past Mad Dogs area (Two Tier "right") and the gully approach as for the upper tier.

Two-Tier Buttress - Access to the Lower Tier is via the weir at the left end of the crag. Access to the upper tier is detailed in the BMC Wye Valley guidebook – ascend the easy gully right of the Mad Dogs section and descend via the ‘Sibser’ abseil.  If abseiling from the Upper Tier to the Lower Tier, most parties choose to descend below ‘Reward’. Do not abseil from any point further West than an obvious tree stump with a bolted abseil station behind it – the wet gully bordering the crag has significant ecological importance.

Nettle Buttress - Cross the river directly below the crag via a fishermen’s weir. Alternatively, if the river is in spate, access the crag just above the river via a path joining the Monsal Trail. This should be considered a last option due to the sensitive floral assemblage in this riverside habitat.

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale - most of these are of negligible climbing quality.
  • Do not leave in situ crabs or tape on bolt hangars.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

 

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
This crag has been rebolted with P bolts and the dodgy krabs at the top replaced with malons. The time & money spent on this crag has really turned it around for me as the danger of some of the ab stations ruined the overall feel. Well done that man!! As for the climbing... its deceptively pumpy and on solid rock as far as blasted quarries go. Pretty much well worth the visit!
John_Warner - 05/Nov/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Blatant Buttress 
2For the Good of the Cause5a 41
3Chug, Chug, Chug6b 1
4Close to the Edge6a+ *64
5Every Breath You Take6b+ *13
6Eye Catching Cod Piece6b+ *20
7Pipistrelle6a *62
8Rave On6a 30
9Chill Out6a+ *51
10Feel the Beat6b *33
11Emission Control7a+ *9
12Wobbly Wheels7b * 
13Good Vibrations7a+ *5
14Loco-Motion7a *4
15Love is a Swallow6a+ 20
16The Runaway Train6a+ 7
17Came Down the Track6b 11
18One Track Offensive6a 7
19Burning Rails5c 9
20Puffing6b+  
21Steaming6b 1
22Sidetrack6c  
 Blackwell Halt 
24Byte Size6b 3
25Ernie6c+ 5
26Defrag6c 7
27A Soldier's Diary6c 4
28Anoraks and Trainspotters6b 10
29Micro-nerd6b+ 7
30Nerd the Absurd6b 6
31Micro-chip6c+ 17
32Modem6a *56
33C.D. RompE2 5c *2
34The Arapahoe Connection6b+ **105
35Hard Drive6b+ *57
36Megabyte6b *71
37Gopherspace6b *85
38Windows 956b **268
39Falling Irons
-
6b *94
40Falling Icons6b *11
41She got the Bosch, I got drilled6b *64
42Waste Bin6b *113
43The Hacker6b+ *25
44E-mail6b 40
45She Mail6b 10
46No Mail6a 28
47Surfing the Net6c 2
 The Sidings 
49Glaswegian Kiss7c+ *4
50Strawberry Kiss7b *3
51Spank Me Senseless with a Wet Herring
-
VD  
52Kick the Bucket
-
E2 5b 2
53Humiliation
-
7a 1
54Get Down and Bark, Bitch
-
6b 1
55Up the CreekE5 6a  
56Hupsters7a+ *5
57Fizzy6c+ *22
58SleepersHVS 5a 15
59Lust in the DustE1 5b 6
60Platonic DesireE1 5c *6
61Spring is HereHVS 5a 5
62Firefly
-
HVS 4c 2
63I Drink Therefore I AmE4 6b *10
64The Dukes of HazardE5 6c *4
65County TimeE3 5c  
66A Touch Too MuchE1 5b 6
67Puffing BillyVS 4b **48
68A Sign of the TimesVS 4c 14
69Sprint StartE1 5a *34
70Lethal DoseE3 6b *23
71Fame But No FortuneE2 5c 16
72Fireman's FrolicD 5
73Visible Void *E1 5a 1
74Unzipping the Wild Physique
-
4c 4
75Attack the GhostHVS 5a 1
76Bone and GlobeHVS 5a 2
77Crowd Burst
-
HVS 4c 2
 The Embankment 
79Rampant
-
S 6
80The World According to Tommy Trout6c+ 5
81Hungry Eyes7a+ **195
82Beef It7b *113
83Secret Gudgeon Society7b **94
84Stone the Loach7c **146
85Mind of a Turbot7b *142
86The Man Who Fell to Earth6c+ *213
87Arachonothera
-
6b *218
88Arachonothera Direct6b+ *265
89Prawnography6c *282
90Bream in Black7a+ *253
91Breamtime7a+ *112
92The Barracuda Bass Sound7a+ *89
93Pump Up The Bass7a+ 13
94No Hiding Plaice7a+ **132
95Sturgeon in the Cupboard7c **157
96Whiting on the Wall7c 3
97The Black WidowE1 5b 2
98Silence of the Clams7a *17
99Over the Rainbow Trout6c+ *38
100Future Paradox
-
E3 6a  
101Night of the Guppy7b *9
102Lamprey on Ice7a+ 4
103The Red SpiderE3 5c  
104The Zander Welfare Club7b *2
105Red Snapper Meets the Dog Fish7a+ *3
106Name That Tuna7b+ *1
107Garfish Serenade7a+ 2
108The Open SecretE5 6b *6
109Fragile EarthE5 6b  
110Something Fishy7c  
111Fishing Without a Licence7c **11
112Barefoot in a Pool of Sharks7b+ **6
113Kiss the Mackerel7c *1
114The Life of a Stickleback7b+ 1
115Minnows as a Substitute for White Bait6c *4
 Max Wall 
117Mix and Match6a 30
118Maximum Potential6a 14
119MaxiHVS 5a 1
120Pepsi Max6c+ 11
121Max FactorE2 5b *10
122Max Head Room7a **323
123Max WallE5 6a *11
124Max Pax 'em In7a **328
125Max 'is Wall6c **311
126Lunatic Fringe6c+ *153
127Black MaxE1 5b 10
128 Max Pact6b *555
129 Max Pact Indirect6a+ *154
130 The Max Works6c+ **237
131Max to the Wall7a+ **198
132Incandescent CourageE6 6a * 
133Max-a-Million7b *43
134AfterlifeE6 6b * 
135Maxonomy7a+ *21
136Max Museum7b **54
137Maxwell House7b+ *13
138Rough Justice7c *6
139A Bigger Max7b+ *1
140The Max They Love To Hate7b 1
141Dream Thief7a+ 3
142Orgasimus Maximus
-
HVS 5a  
143Tyrannosaurus MaxE3 5c *7
144MaxativeE3 5c  
145Let the Max Increase7b 1
146Krankius Maximus7b+ 1
147Max's MumE3 6a  
148Maxing Around7a+  
149Maximuscle7b+ * 
150Micromax
-
E3 6a  
151Dinosaurs Don't Max
-
E4 6b 1
152Value Added Max
-
E4 6b  
153Max Museum StartV3 **1
 The Nook 
155Perverted Mind
-
E2 5c 2
156Fuck Pig
-
E2 5c 3
157Eddy's First
-
E2 6a  
158The Dukes of Earl (Grey)7c 1
159Michael Foot Jam7c+ **3
160A Cure for Foot Jams7b+ *2
161A Cure For Arapiles7b+  
162Kalymnos 8a7a+ *4
163Santiano7a+ **13
164The Mighty Wind7b+ * 
165Rock Umbrella7b *2
166The Storm7b+ *12
167A Bit of Nookie8a+ *3
168The Lockless Monster7c+ **35
169Theoria8a+ *3
170There's Life in the Old Log Yet7c * 
171Z.G.S.
-
E3 6b  
172New Enemies
-
E3 6b 2
173Powerplay
-
E3 6b  
174Zebedee Gets Syphilis
-
E3 6b 1
175Phil's RouteE2 5c **2
 Nettle Buttress 
177Personal Voyage7a  
178Back to Basics
-
6c+  
179Totonic
-
7a+  
180Snail Mail6b 1
181Schickster groove
-
E1 5c  
182Harmonious Harmonica6c  
183Symmetrical Systems6b  
184Balanced Ballistics6b 5
185SuryanamaskerE5 6b  
186Long Dead Train7b *5
187Stuffed BadgerE5 6b **4
188Brock the startf7B ***1
189Badged StufferE5 6b * 
190Summer WineE5 6a ***9
191The Eve SyndromeE5 6c  
192First LightE2 5b **17
193Epidavros6b+ *16
194Rob's Dilemma
-
HVS 5b 1
195Light Ideas6c *14
196Stravandrabellagola7b *3
197Esmerelda7b+ *23
198Esmerunga7c **12
199Stung7b+ **61
200Ouch!7b+ *2
201Major Incontinence
-
E5 6c  
202General IncompetanceE7 6b ** 
203Toys for the Boys7c+ ***50
204No LightE3 5c **8
205Subterra7b *26
206Terra IncognitaE5 6b **1
207Gobblin' Women6b+ 35
208Little Girl Eater/Fish-u-like6b 24
209Fishlock6b+ *46
210Kakaho6a+ 38
211Cock-a-hoop6a 19
212Bursting Out6c *7
 Two Tier Buttress 
 Two Tier - Left 
215Home From Home
-
E5 6b 1
216Another Brick in the Wall7b+  
217Osher, Osher, Osher7a+  
218The Bride and the Groom6c+ *2
219The Burqa King7b  
220The Incredible Pierre7a+ * 
221Short Sharp & Sweet8a 1
222Short Sharp Shock7c * 
223Pour Dill7c *15
224Open Gate7a+ ***172
225Case Adjourned7a **179
226Smelting Point6c 8
227ThothE1 5b 4
228Cockerel Cry6c+ *2
229Jackson's Browned Off6c 10
230Running on EmptyE5 6a 1
231Just Pullet7a+ 1
232Evidently Chickentown7c *1
233Poultry in Motion7b+ 1
234Mega-Bites7b *29
235Systems Malfunction7b **103
236Reboot7c+ *1
237Titter Ye Not8a *10
238Offal
-
E3 6a  
239Waffle7b+ 1
240MalnutritionE4 6a *16
241Ghee Force
-
E4 6b 1
242Split InfinitiveE5 6c  
243Isolate
-
E4 6b 3
244Nerefaun
-
E5 6c  
245Stolen Fruit
-
E5 6b 2
 Two Tier - Centre 
247Stogumber Club7c *3
248Entrée8a **19
249Kali Yuga8b ***12
250Flow8a+ **10
251Countdown7a+ ***235
252Darl - Pitch 17a ***276
253Why Me?7c **84
254Orange Sunshine7c+ **33
255Orange SuntanProject  
256Boring7c  
257Ninth LifeE7 6c **4
258Daylight Robbery7b **135
259RaE4 6a 7
260The Cruise Brothers7a+ *12
261Some Coincidence7a+ 18
262Rising Sap6b+ 180
263OsirisE2 5a 1
264Subterfuge6b+ *335
265Quality Control7a **429
266Nogads7b+ *21
267Blockhead7b **146
268Reasons to be Cheerful7b+ 9
269The Inbetweenies7a+ *28
270Wot a Waste6c+ 1
271Tippers6c+ 1
272The TrapHS 1
 Secteur Nadin 
274The Chicken RunHVS 5a *33
275Chicken Run Black Flake FinishHVS 5a 6
276The Rooster in the Hen House6b+ *30
277GoldfingerE2 6a *28
278The Flight of IcarusE6 6b **1
279Aberration8a **67
280Celebration7c ***59
281Minos7c+ **24
282Buster8a+ *1
283Gonads8a+ **3
284Ultralight8a+ **3
285Seven Pounds Overweight8a 3
286Lightweight7c **35
287Lightweight (Spizz Energy finish)
-
7b+ **6
288Spizz EnergyE5 6b ***22
289Spazz Energy7a+ *55
290A Touch of ClassE4 6a **5
291Mad Dogs and EnglishmenE3 5c ***117
292Machineries of Joy - Pitch 1E1 5b *25
293Ape Index
-
E5 6c  
294Within Reach6c *14
 Two-tier Upper 
296Laurels for Hardy7b+ *1
297In Tiers8b+  
298Darl - Pitch 27a+ **31
299Hardcore Junkie8b * 
300Hardcore Junkie (righthand)
-
8a+ 1
301Welcome to My World8a *5
302The Curse of the Mummy8a *6
303A Vision of Loveliness7c+ **15
304A Picture of Perfection8a *3
305Recycled7c+ ** 
306The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag7b+ ***65
307The Tier Drop X-plodes7c+ **3
308Reward7b **17
309Monster Mouse Resurgent6c+ *43
310Aggrieved6c+ 4
311Disjointed Might
-
E5 6a  
312Sibser7b+  
313Nervous Breakdown7b+ **1
314Communication Breakdown7c+ ** 
315Total Breakdown7c+ *** 
 Vista Wall 
317Machineries of Joy (P2)
-
E1 5b *6
318Kill Your Television
-
6c 5
319Decade to Decayed
-
6c+ 5
320Nu Vista
-
7a 1
321Eggs, Bacon, Coffee and Suicide
-
7b 3
322Superstring7c *1
323Dizzy
-
7c+  
324Big Jesus Trashcan
-
6c+ 2
325Alta Vista
-
6a+ 2
326Speedmetal Bedmoshin'
-
6b 6
327Hasta la Vista
-
6c+ 1
328Aah Vista
-
6b+ 1
 Long Wall 
330Super orchid7b  
331Columnus7b+  
332Banana Republic
-
E2 5c 1
333The Orange Order6c  
334Orange Free State6b+ 2
335Berried6c *1
336Black Rights7b *3
337High Society7a **36
338Kiss Me Hardy7a+ ***81
339Kiss My Arcy7b **9
340Mystical Attainment7b+ *3
341Mouldwarp Wall7c *1
342Brothers in Arms7b+ *5
343Rouge Total7b *3
344Total Rock7c * 
345Jungle Rock7b+ *15
346Some Things Change7b+ *2
347Fatal Attraction7a **22
348Lucky Finger7b * 
349Rolling Stone
-
E4 6b  
350The Balancing Act7a+ * 
351Trick Show7b+  
352Casamance7a+ 1
353Macumba7a+  
354FreewayE1 5a 1
355Titanic7b+ **2
356Big News Manmouth7c **2
357North Atlantic Drift8a **1
358Atlantic Realm7c+ **2
359Atlantic Realm (pre rock fall)7b+ *4
360Gob on the Mountain7c *3
361Gobstopper7c *1
362Meterol7b+ **4
363BreathlessE6 6c * 
364Cathedral Taste7b+ **3
365A Bout de Souffle7c **2
366MultiplexE4 6b **4
367Child Lock7a+ *9
368Smutt
-
E5 6c  
369Steaming Strides7a+ 1
370Hot Panties7a *14
371Nookie Bear7a+ 2
372Child's PlayE4 6a *2
373Skid Marks
-
6b+ 4
374Watch This Space6c 2
 Runyons Corner 
376The Decapitator
-
HVS 5b  
377Local VortexE3 6b  
378Overslapped7a * 
379Kill the Bill7b+  
380Robert's Roberts7a+ 1
381Underslapped7a *2
382Thunderstrapped
-
7a 1
383Slappy Happy Chappy7a 1
384Thunderstrapped7a  
385Overclapped7a  
386Megaflapped6c 4
387Runyonectomy6b 1
388Waldo Winchester
-
VS 4a  
389More Than SomewhatS 1
390The Jury's Out6b+ 3
391The Fifth Amendment6c 1
392Big Butch
-
VS 4c  
393Seldom Seen
-
VS 4c 2
394Nathan Detroit
-
VS 4c 1
395Community Service6c+ *2
396Open Verdict7a+ *1
397In the Defence6c 4
398Smash, Bang, Wallop
-
E1 5b  
399Harry the Horse
-
HVS 5a  
400Spanish John
-
VS 4b  
401Little Isadore
-
S 2
402For the Prosecution6c 2
403Guilty6c 4
404The Plea6a+ *8
405Witness This6c+ 2
406Franky Ferocious
-
VS 4c  
407Educated Edmund
-
VS 4c  
408Red Nosed pollination Blues
-
VS 4c  
409Regrets Groove
-
VS 4b  
410Mindy's Route
-
VS 4b 1
411No Intent6b+ 12
412As Loose As This?6c+ *7
413In the Stox7a *7
414Stax a Time7b 2
 Moving Buttress 
416Never to Look Back7b **17
417I Had a Black Shirt7a+ *9
418Protest and SurviveE4 6a *2
419Whistling CrackVS 4b *18
420Gander MeatE6 6c * 
421Dope7b+ **2
422Spirit of the Age
-
E5 6a  
423AutonomonE1 5b *2
424Automoton7a 1
425MonotonVS 4b 7
426VibratorE2 5c *7
427Witch in Stitch7b **3
428Soft Shoe
-
VS 4c  
429Shapeshifter
-
HVS 5a  
430Transit Grove
-
VS 4c 1
431Escort Crack
-
VS 4c  
432Thin LizzyE1 5b **22
433Swinging WallVS 4c 6
434A Man Called Horse7b+ *2
435My Lovely Horse7c *2
436DynamicE1 5c 2
437A Farewell to Arms
-
E3 6a  
438Nettle Whine
-
E3 6a  
439Still Wall
-
VS 4b 2
440OrchristVS 4c 4
441OsculationHVS 5a *8
442OscillationVS 4b 1
443Yuk
-
E4 6b  
444Wise Up! Sucker ....6c+  
445Your Rotten Thoughts7a+  
446Priming the PumpE4 6a  
447Oh No! It's the Wall to Wall Birthday Party7a+ 1
448Fresh Jive7c  
449Shaking CrackE2 5b **16
450Big Boned Backside Melon7b+  
451Suicides Reprieve/McKenzie Frenzy
-
E4 6a  
452DangleberryVS 4c *21
453Thor's HammerE1 5b **18
454SocialismE3 5c * 
455ColonE1 5b *9
456Thin Thin GrooveVS 4c *21
457Calvi Corner
-
S 7
458Behaviour of Fish
-
E4 6b  
459Forgotten Dream
-
E5 6b  
460The Roaring Forties
-
E3 5c  
461QuakeE1 5b *11
462The Price of FameE4 6b  
463VibrationE1 5b *15
464Family Fortunes7a+  
465Pushed to the Hilti6c  
466Shock the MonkeyE4 6a  
467Gibbon Take6c  
 Pink Wall 
469The Trainee
-
7b+  
470Wye Train
-
7b  
471Pink
-
E1 5b  
472Tunnel Vision
-
7b+  
473Loco Motif
-
7b * 
474Steam Train
-
7b * 
475The Railway Children
-
7a+ * 
476One Track Mind
-
7a  
 The Lifts 
478Generously Cut TrousersS 2
479Mississippi Burning7a  
480Tricky Dicky6c+  
481The Black and White Minstrel Show7b  
482Rusty Lee7a * 
483Daddy's Riding the Range7a+  
484Close Control6b * 
485White Riot6a *2
486Rastus
-
HVS 4c 1
487Iron Filings6c  
488Steel on Steel7a 1
489Mettle Fatigue6c 2
490Pop the Rivet6a 1
491Fingerpops7b+  
492Crank it Up6c+ 1
493An Uplifting Experience6b+ 1
494Get LiftedE1 5b *2
495Access all Areas7a+ * 
496Elephant Talk7a+ * 
497Hamish7a  
498Five Miles High6c+ *2
499The Black EdgeE1 5b *3
500All Fall Down7a+ * 
501High Scream Sunday6c *4
502Disraeli GearsE1 5a 2
503The Siberian Hamster7a  
504ChagrinHVS 5a *3
505PhiladelphiaE1 5b 2
506Eye shadows
-
E4 5c 1
507All Made Up
-
7a+  
508Powder Puff
-
6a+  
509Uninspired
-
E4 6a * 
510Pinnaclised
-
6c  
511Ragged AreteS 4a ***20
512Succulent CornerS 4a 7
513The StingHVS 5b  
514Firefly Crack
-
VS 4c *8
515The Hoochie Koo
-
HVS 4c *4
516Cetswayo
-
VS 4b *7
517No Hammer InvolvedHVS 5a *1
518Heathenism
-
VD *1
519Paganism
-
S 3
520Idolatry Wall
-
S 1
521Tikka
-
VS 4a 4
522The TendrilS 3
523Black Leg GrooveS 2
 The Obelisk 
525Heathenism
-
VD *4
526Paganism
-
S *5
 Plum Buttress 
528Less of Your Lip
-
7b+  
529Liposuction7b+  
530A Bit Lippy7b+ 1
531A Bit On The Side6c 1
532My Secret Life7a 5
533The Wilderness Years7b+ 3
534Scratch Race7a 16
535The Massive6b+ 23
536The Super IndirectE1 5a **15
537Coca ChaloneE1 5a 1
538The StalkVS 4c **121
539AplombE1 5a ***94
540Giants6c *18
541VictoriaE3 5c 4
542Mrs Brown7c * 
543Raisin RoofE5 6b * 
544The Big Plum
-
A2 2
545The Big PlumE6 6c **1
546Damson in Distress7b+ **1
547The Spider8a ***41
548Chip Off The Old Block7c+ **1
549Sloe GinE6 6b ***1
550Sloe Gin (sport)7c **10
551SirplumE1 5b ***478
552The Plumb-line Finish
-
E1 5b 9
553The Defector
-
E2 5c 3
554Peggy Sue
-
E1 5a 3
 Topley Buttress 
556Finnieston FerryVS 4c 1
557Little Big Climb
-
7a  
558Double Topley
-
7a+  
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
560Binge DrinkerHVS  
561The Hunter House BustHVS  
562SarinHVS  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian