Climbs 535
Rocktype Limestone

Faces all

Julian Heath, The Spider, 8a, SirPlum buttress, Cheedale © chris fox

Crag features

The area Chee Dale Upper covers all the Chee Dale crags that would usually be approach from the Topley Pike (west) end of the dale. This includes everything from Blatant and Blackwell Halt, down through the Embankment and Two Tier to Nettle Buttress and the Nook.

Approach notes

Important Note Regarding Blatant and Blackwell Halt -

The BMC Peak Limestone North Approach notes are wrong and causing problems. Follow the approach below which is the one listed in the Rockfax and it doesn't require you to cross the live railway line which is illegal and has been prompting people to call the police.

Approach to Blackwell Halt - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharp left at the cottages and follow a small path along the edge of the river and past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

For Blatant Buttress - Leave Blackwell Halt and find a small path which leads right (facing out) and down a steep drop to the side of the railway. Blatant Buttress is just along here.

For the other sections of the dale here are the current access routes are:

Plum Buttress - Access from the railway traditionally crossed the scree slopes to the right of the buttress - this has now changed. Access is now via the obvious new stile directly beneath the crag, avoiding the ecologically sensitive scree. Descent from the buttress (if not completely topping-out) should be via the gully on the left-hand side.

The 2nd and 3rd Lifts - Descent to these crags can be achieved by abseiling down the small gully (marked by a cluster of small ash trees) next to the obvious feature of ‘Ragged Arête.’ Caution - this descent contains loose rock. An easier approach is down the DWT marked gully, which gives access to the 3rd Lift (on the left if facing outwards).

Moving Buttress - Descend the DWT marked gully, past the Pinnacle, to below the Western end of the buttress.

Long Wall - Access is by continuing at the junction past Mad Dogs area (Two Tier "right") and the gully approach as for the upper tier.

Two-Tier Buttress - Access to the Lower Tier is via the weir at the left end of the crag. Access to the upper tier is detailed in the BMC Wye Valley guidebook – ascend the easy gully right of the Mad Dogs section and descend via the ‘Sibser’ abseil.  If abseiling from the Upper Tier to the Lower Tier, most parties choose to descend below ‘Reward’. Do not abseil from any point further West than an obvious tree stump with a bolted abseil station behind it – the wet gully bordering the crag has significant ecological importance.

Nettle Buttress - Cross the river directly below the crag via a fishermen’s weir. Alternatively, if the river is in spate, access the crag just above the river via a path joining the Monsal Trail. This should be considered a last option due to the sensitive floral assemblage in this riverside habitat.

Restricted Access

26th June 2016 - There's a Grey Wagtail nesting on the bottom ramp line of  the 6a+ version of Max Pact and the 6c+ 'The Max Works'.

Cheedale is a SSSI and cSAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions These include, - No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from the dale top.

- No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale - most of these are of negligible climbing quality.

- Do not leave in situ crabs or tape on bolt hangars.

- Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance.

- Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

- Do not cross the railway line to approach Blackwell Halt, use the tunnel approached from the cottages.

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Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
This crag has been rebolted with P bolts and the dodgy krabs at the top replaced with malons. The time & money spent on this crag has really turned it around for me as the danger of some of the ab stations ruined the overall feel. Well done that man!! As for the climbing... its deceptively pumpy and on solid rock as far as blasted quarries go. Pretty much well worth the visit!
John_Warner - 05/Nov/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Blatant Buttress 
2For the Good of the Cause5a 40
3Chug, Chug, Chug6b  
4Close to the Edge6a+ *60
5Every Breath You Take6b+ *11
6Eye Catching Cod Piece6b+ *17
7Pipistrelle6a *58
8Rave On6a 25
9Chill Out6a+ *44
10Feel the Beat6b *31
11Emission Control7a+ *7
12Wobbly Wheels7b * 
13Good Vibrations7a+ *5
14Loco-Motion7a *3
15Love is a Swallow6a+ 19
16The Runaway Train6a+ 6
17Came Down the Track6b 9
18One Track Offensive6a 7
19Burning Rails5c 9
 Blackwell Halt 
21Byte Size6b 3
22Ernie6c+ 4
23Defrag6c 6
24A Soldier's Diary6c 3
25Anoraks and Trainspotters6b 9
26Micro-nerd6b+ 6
27Nerd the Absurd6b 6
28Micro-chip6c+ 16
29Modem6a *53
30C.D. RompE2 5c *2
31The Arapahoe Connection6b+ **90
32Hard Drive6b+ *50
33Megabyte6b *65
34Gopherspace6b *76
35Windows 956b **242
36Falling Irons
6b *89
37Falling Icons6b *8
38She got the Bosch, I got drilled6b *60
39Waste Bin6b *108
40The Hacker6b+ *21
41E-mail6b 36
42She Mail6b 5
43No Mail6a 25
44Surfing the Net6c 1
 The Sidings 
46Glaswegian Kiss7c+ *2
47Strawberry Kiss7b *2
48Spank Me Senseless with a Wet Herring
49Kick the Bucket
E2 5b 2
7a 1
51Get Down and Bark, Bitch
6b 1
52Up the CreekE5 6a  
53Hupsters7a+ *5
54Fizzy6c+ *22
55SleepersHVS 5a 15
56Lust in the DustE1 5b 6
57Platonic DesireE1 5c *6
58Spring is HereHVS 5a 5
HVS 4c 2
60I Drink Therefore I AmE4 6b *10
61The Dukes of HazardE5 6c *4
62County TimeE3 5c  
63A Touch Too MuchE1 5b 6
64Puffing BillyVS 4b **48
65A Sign of the TimesVS 4c 14
66Sprint StartE1 5a *30
67Lethal DoseE3 6b *23
68Fame But No FortuneE2 5c 15
69Fireman's FrolicD 5
70Visible Void *E1 5a 1
71Unzipping the Wild Physique
4c 4
72Attack the GhostHVS 5a 1
73Bone and GlobeHVS 5a 2
74Crowd Burst
HVS 4c 2
 The Embankment 
S 5
77The World According to Tommy Trout6c+ 5
78Hungry Eyes7a+ **174
79Beef It7b *110
80Secret Gudgeon Society7b **84
81Stone the Loach7c **132
82Mind of a Turbot7b *118
83The Man Who Fell to Earth6c+ *198
6b *210
85Arachonothera Direct6b+ *251
86Prawnography6c *262
87Bream in Black7a+ *225
88Breamtime7a+ *100
89The Barracuda Bass Sound7a+ *75
90Pump Up The Bass7a+ 10
91No Hiding Plaice7a+ **114
92Sturgeon in the Cupboard7c **135
93Whiting on the Wall7c 3
94The Black WidowE1 5b 2
95Silence of the Clams7a *17
96Over the Rainbow Trout6c+ *37
97Future Paradox
E3 6a  
98Night of the Guppy7b *9
99Lamprey on Ice7a+ 4
100The Red SpiderE3 5c  
101The Zander Welfare Club7b *2
102Red Snapper Meets the Dog Fish7a+ *3
103Name That Tuna7b+ *1
104Garfish Serenade7a+ 2
105The Open SecretE5 6b *6
106Fragile EarthE5 6b  
107Something Fishy7c  
108Fishing Without a Licence7c **8
109Barefoot in a Pool of Sharks7b+ **6
110Kiss the Mackerel7c *1
111The Life of a Stickleback7b+ 1
112Minnows as a Substitute for White Bait6c *4
 Max Wall 
114Mix and Match6a 29
115Maximum Potential6a 12
116MaxiHVS 5a 1
117Pepsi Max6c+ 10
118Max FactorE2 5b *10
119Max Head Room7a **309
120Max WallE5 6a *10
121Max Pax 'em In7a **296
122Max 'is Wall6c **294
123Lunatic Fringe6c+ *149
124Black MaxE1 5b 10
125 Max Pact6b *542
126 Max Pact Indirect6a+ *143
127 The Max Works6c+ **231
128Max to the Wall7a+ **184
129Incandescent CourageE6 6a * 
130Max-a-Million7b *42
131AfterlifeE6 6b * 
132Maxonomy7a+ *20
133Max Museum7b **54
134Maxwell House7b+ *12
135Rough Justice7c *6
136A Bigger Max7b+ *1
137The Max They Love To Hate7b 1
138Dream Thief7a+ 3
139Orgasimus Maximus
HVS 5a  
140Tyrannosaurus MaxE3 5c *7
141MaxativeE3 5c  
142Let the Max Increase7b 1
143Krankius Maximus7b+ 1
144Max's MumE3 6a  
145Maxing Around7a+  
146Maximuscle7b+ * 
E3 6a  
148Dinosaurs Don't Max
E4 6b 1
149Value Added Max
E4 6b  
150Max Museum StartV3 **1
 The Nook 
152Perverted Mind
E2 5c 2
153Fuck Pig
E2 5c 3
154Eddy's First
E2 6a  
155The Dukes of Earl (Grey)7c 1
156Michael Foot Jam7c+ **3
157A Cure for Foot Jams7b+ *2
158A Cure For Arapiles7b+  
159Kalymnos 8a7a+ *4
160Santiano7a+ **13
161The Mighty Wind7b+ * 
162Rock Umbrella7b *2
163The Storm7b+ *9
164A Bit of Nookie8a+ *3
165The Lockless Monster7c+ **31
166Theoria8a+ *3
167There's Life in the Old Log Yet7c * 
E3 6b  
169New Enemies
E3 6b 2
E3 6b  
171Zebedee Gets Syphilis
E3 6b 1
172Phil's RouteE2 5c **2
 Nettle Buttress 
174Personal Voyage7a  
175Back to Basics
177Snail Mail6b 1
178Schickster groove
E1 5c  
179Harmonious Harmonica6c  
180Symmetrical Systems6b  
181Balanced Ballistics6b 5
182SuryanamaskerE5 6b  
183Long Dead Train7b *5
184Stuffed BadgerE5 6b **4
185Brock the startf7B ***1
186Badged StufferE5 6b * 
187Summer WineE5 6a ***8
188The Eve SyndromeE5 6c  
189First LightE2 5b **17
190Epidavros6b+ *15
191Rob's Dilemma
HVS 5b 1
192Light Ideas6c *14
193Stravandrabellagola7b *3
194Esmerelda7b+ *21
195Esmerunga7c **11
196Stung7b+ **49
197Ouch!7b+ *1
198Major Incontinence
E5 6c  
199General IncompetanceE7 6b ** 
200Toys for the Boys7c+ ***41
201No LightE3 5c **8
202Subterra7b *24
203Terra IncognitaE5 6b ** 
204Gobblin' Women6b+ 35
205Little Girl Eater/Fish-u-like6b 23
206Fishlock6b+ *45
207Kakaho6a+ 38
208Cock-a-hoop6a 19
209Bursting Out6c *7
 Two Tier Buttress 
 Two Tier - Left 
212Home From Home
E5 6b 1
213Another Brick in the Wall7b+  
214Osher, Osher, Osher7a+  
215The Bride and the Groom6c+ *2
216The Burqa King7b  
217The Incredible Pierre7a+ * 
218Short Sharp Shock7c * 
219Pour Dill7c *13
220Open Gate7a+ ***126
221Case Adjourned7a **150
222Smelting Point6c 8
223ThothE1 5b 4
224Cockerel Cry6c+ *2
225Jackson's Browned Off6c 9
226Running on EmptyE5 6a 1
227Just Pullet7a+ 1
228Evidently Chickentown7c *1
229Poultry in Motion7b+ 1
230Mega-Bites7b *24
231Systems Malfunction7b **88
232Reboot7c+ *1
233Titter Ye Not8a *6
E3 6a  
235Waffle7b+ 1
236MalnutritionE4 6a *16
237Ghee Force
E4 6b 1
238Split InfinitiveE5 6c  
E4 6b 3
E5 6c  
241Stolen Fruit
E5 6b 2
 Two Tier - Centre 
243Stogumber Club7c *3
244Entrée8a **13
245Kali Yuga8b ***5
246Flow8a+ **3
247Countdown7a+ ***215
248Darl - Pitch 17a ***258
249Why Me?7c **77
250Orange Sunshine7c+ **25
251Orange SuntanProject  
253Ninth LifeE7 6c **4
254Daylight Robbery7b **127
255RaE4 6a 7
256The Cruise Brothers7a+ *12
257Some Coincidence7a+ 13
258Rising Sap6b+ 168
259OsirisE2 5a 1
260Subterfuge6b+ *310
261Quality Control7a **400
262Nogads7b+ *19
263Blockhead7b **134
264Reasons to be Cheerful7b+ 9
265The Inbetweenies7a+ *27
266Wot a Waste6c+ 1
267Tippers6c+ 1
268The TrapHS 1
 Secteur Nadin 
270The Chicken RunHVS 5a *31
271Chicken Run Black Flake FinishHVS 5a 6
272The Rooster in the Hen House6b+ *26
273GoldfingerE2 6a *26
274The Flight of IcarusE6 6b **1
275Aberration8a **50
276Celebration7c ***35
277Minos7c+ **17
278Buster8a+ *1
279Gonads8a+ **3
280Ultralight8a+ **3
281Seven Pounds Overweight8a 3
282Lightweight7c **26
283Lightweight (Spizz Energy finish)
7b+ **6
284Spizz EnergyE5 6b ***17
285Spazz Energy7a+ *47
286A Touch of ClassE4 6a **5
287Mad Dogs and EnglishmenE3 5c ***100
288Machineries of Joy - Pitch 1E1 5b *25
289Ape Index
E5 6c  
290Within Reach6c *14
 Two-tier Upper 
292Laurels for Hardy7b+ *1
293In Tiers8b+  
294Darl - Pitch 27a+ **28
295Hardcore Junkie8b * 
296Hardcore Junkie (righthand)
8a+ 1
297Welcome to My World8a *1
298The Curse of the Mummy8a *3
299A Vision of Loveliness7c+ **9
300A Picture of Perfection8a *1
301Recycled7c+ ** 
302The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag7b+ ***36
303The Tier Drop X-plodes7c+ **3
304Reward7b **12
305Monster Mouse Resurgent6c+ *33
306Aggrieved6c+ 3
307Disjointed Might
E5 6a  
309Nervous Breakdown7b+ **1
310Communication Breakdown7c+ ** 
311Total Breakdown7c+ *** 
 Vista Wall 
313Machineries of Joy (P2)
E1 5b *6
314Kill Your Television
6c 5
315Decade to Decayed
6c+ 5
316Nu Vista
7a 1
317Eggs, Bacon, Coffee and Suicide
7b 3
318Superstring7c *1
320Big Jesus Trashcan
6c+ 2
321Alta Vista
6a+ 2
322Speedmetal Bedmoshin'
6b 6
323Hasta la Vista
6c+ 1
324Aah Vista
6b+ 1
 Long Wall 
326Super orchid7b  
328Banana Republic
E2 5c 1
329The Orange Order6c  
330Orange Free State6b+ 2
331Berried6c *1
332Black Rights7b *3
333High Society7a **35
334Kiss Me Hardy7a+ ***66
335Kiss My Arcy7b **8
336Mystical Attainment7b+ *3
337Mouldwarp Wall7c *1
338Brothers in Arms7b+ *5
339Rouge Total7b *3
340Total Rock7c * 
341Jungle Rock7b+ *14
342Some Things Change7b+ *2
343Fatal Attraction7a **21
344Lucky Finger7b * 
345Rolling Stone
E4 6b  
346The Balancing Act7a+ * 
347Trick Show7b+  
348Casamance7a+ 1
350FreewayE1 5a 1
351Titanic7b+ **2
352Big News Manmouth7c **2
353North Atlantic Drift8a **1
354Atlantic Realm7c+ **2
355Atlantic Realm (pre rock fall)7b+ *4
356Gob on the Mountain7c *3
357Gobstopper7c *1
358Meterol7b+ **4
359BreathlessE6 6c * 
360Cathedral Taste7b+ **3
361A Bout de Souffle7c **2
362MultiplexE4 6b **4
363Child Lock7a+ *9
E5 6c  
365Steaming Strides7a+ 1
366Hot Panties7a *14
367Nookie Bear7a+ 2
368Child's PlayE4 6a *2
369Skid Marks
6b+ 4
370Watch This Space6c 2
 Runyons Corner 
372The Decapitator
HVS 5b  
373Local VortexE3 6b  
374Overslapped7a * 
375Kill the Bill7b+  
376Robert's Roberts7a+ 1
377Underslapped7a *2
7a 1
379Slappy Happy Chappy7a 1
382Megaflapped6c 4
383Runyonectomy6b 1
384Waldo Winchester
VS 4a  
385More Than SomewhatS 1
386The Jury's Out6b+ 3
387The Fifth Amendment6c 1
388Big Butch
VS 4c  
389Seldom Seen
VS 4c 2
390Nathan Detroit
VS 4c 1
391Community Service6c+ *2
392Open Verdict7a+ *1
393In the Defence6c 4
394Smash, Bang, Wallop
E1 5b  
395Harry the Horse
HVS 5a  
396Spanish John
VS 4b  
397Little Isadore
S 2
398For the Prosecution6c 2
399Guilty6c 4
400The Plea6a+ *8
401Witness This6c+ 2
402Franky Ferocious
VS 4c  
403Educated Edmund
VS 4c  
404Red Nosed pollination Blues
VS 4c  
405Regrets Groove
VS 4b  
406Mindy's Route
VS 4b 1
407No Intent6b+ 10
408As Loose As This?6c+ *7
409In the Stox7a *7
410Stax a Time7b 2
 Moving Buttress 
412Never to Look Back7b **15
413I Had a Black Shirt7a+ *8
414Protest and SurviveE4 6a *2
415Whistling CrackVS 4b *18
416Gander MeatE6 6c * 
417Dope7b+ ** 
418Spirit of the Age
E5 6a  
419AutonomonE1 5b *2
421MonotonVS 4b 7
422VibratorE2 5c *7
423Witch in Stitch7b **2
424Soft Shoe
VS 4c  
HVS 5a  
426Transit Grove
VS 4c 1
427Escort Crack
VS 4c  
428Thin LizzyE1 5b **22
429Swinging WallVS 4c 6
430A Man Called Horse7b+ * 
431DynamicE1 5c 2
432A Farewell to Arms
E3 6a  
433Nettle Whine
E3 6a  
434Still Wall
VS 4b 2
435OrchristVS 4c 4
436OsculationHVS 5a *8
E4 6b  
438Wise Up! Sucker ....6c+  
439Your Rotten Thoughts7a+  
440Priming the PumpE4 6a  
441Oh No! It's the Wall to Wall Birthday Party7a+ 1
442Fresh Jive7c  
443Shaking CrackE2 5b **16
444Big Boned Backside Melon7b+  
445Suicides Reprieve/McKenzie Frenzy
E4 6a  
446DangleberryVS 4c *21
447Thor's HammerE1 5b **18
448SocialismE3 5c * 
449ColonE1 5b *9
450Thin Thin GrooveVS 4c *21
451Calvi Corner
S 7
452Behaviour of Fish
E4 6b  
453Forgotten Dream
E5 6b  
454The Roaring Forties
E3 5c  
455QuakeE1 5b *11
456The Price of FameE4 6b  
457VibrationE1 5b *14
458Family Fortunes7a+  
459Pushed to the Hilti6c  
460Shock the MonkeyE4 6a  
461Gibbon Take6c  
 Pink Wall 
463The Trainee
464Wye Train
E1 5b  
466Tunnel Vision
467Loco Motif
7b * 
468Steam Train
7b * 
469The Railway Children
7a+ * 
470One Track Mind
 The Lifts 
472Generously Cut TrousersS 2
473Mississippi Burning7a  
474Tricky Dicky6c+  
475The Black and White Minstrel Show7b  
476Rusty Lee7a * 
477Daddy's Riding the Range7a+  
478Close Control6b * 
479White Riot6a *2
HVS 4c 1
481Iron Filings6c  
482Steel on Steel7a 1
483Mettle Fatigue6c 2
484Pop the Rivet6a 1
486Crank it Up6c+ 1
487An Uplifting Experience6b+ 1
488Get LiftedE1 5b *2
489Access all Areas7a+ * 
490Elephant Talk7a+ * 
492Five Miles High6c+ *2
493The Black EdgeE1 5b *3
494All Fall Down7a+ * 
495High Scream Sunday6c *4
496Disraeli GearsE1 5a 2
497The Siberian Hamster7a  
498ChagrinHVS 5a *3
499PhiladelphiaE1 5b 2
500Eye shadows
E4 5c 1
501All Made Up
502Powder Puff
E4 6a * 
505Ragged AreteS 4a ***20
506Succulent CornerS 4a 7
507The StingHVS 5b  
508Firefly Crack
VS 4c *8
509The Hoochie Koo
HVS 4c *4
VS 4b *7
511No Hammer InvolvedHVS 5a *1
VD *1
S 3
514Idolatry Wall
S 1
VS 4a 4
516The TendrilS 3
517Black Leg GrooveS 2
 The Obelisk 
VD *4
S *5
 Plum Buttress 
522Less of Your Lip
524A Bit Lippy7b+ 1
525A Bit On The Side6c 1
526My Secret Life7a 5
527The Wilderness Years7b+ 3
528Scratch Race7a 13
529The Massive6b+ 19
530The Super IndirectE1 5a **15
531Coca ChaloneE1 5a 1
532The StalkVS 4c **108
533AplombE1 5a ***57
534Giants6c *15
535VictoriaE3 5c 4
536Mrs Brown7c * 
537Raisin RoofE5 6b * 
538The Big Plum
A2 2
539The Big PlumE6 6c **1
540Damson in Distress7b+ **1
541The Spider8a ***12
542Chip Off The Old Block7c+ **1
543Sloe GinE6 6b ***1
544Sloe Gin (sport)7c **6
545SirplumE1 5b ***335
546The Plumb-line Finish
E1 5b 7
547The Defector
E2 5c 3
548Peggy Sue
E1 5a 3
 Topley Buttress 
550Finnieston FerryVS 4c 1
551Little Big Climb
552Double Topley
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
554Binge DrinkerHVS  
555The Hunter House BustHVS  
557Oscillation *VS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian