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These details were last updated on 30/Aug/2011

Peak Scar

North Yorkshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 95 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 231m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
It's limestone Jim, but not as we know it! It's a little soft and shallow - Friends do seem to pop, but on the E's you have no choice. Adds to the fun:)

The crag lies on the south side of a wooded gorge. Recent felling has made it much more open to the sky, making it both lighter and drier. The downside is that you can now see just how precariously stacked some of the blocks are!

Recommended routes: Downbeat (VD), Jordu (S), Solitude (S), Gone (HS 4b), Jam With Sam (VS 4b), Frenesi (VS 4c), Cosmonaut Direct (HVS 5a), The BBC (E2 5c).

Access notes
No groups, no dogs, no group abseiling.

>From S: From the Park visitor centre at the top of Sutton Bank, take the minor road signposted to Boltby. Turn left near a mast then after a long straight turn right at the T-junction. As the road enters woodland it begins to descend. Park with care. The crag lies beneath the road to the left.

>From N: head S out of Hawnby, cross the river, straight on at the junction and after 1 mi park, just after Murton Lodge, by the roadside. The crag is down and right.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

0.0mm rain
Sun
18 °C
9 kph

0.5mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
17 °C
21 kph

0.7mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
12 kph

5.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
12 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks

Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1InertiaMVS 4b *3
2Inertia Variation StartHS 4b 2
3Easy CornerM 8
4White WallS 2
5SidewinderVD *31
6Keystone AreteVD 3
7WolS 3c *5
8JonasHVD 9
9WebarS 4a 6
10ViperVD 4
11PrimoVD 4
12WombleVS 4b 7
13TrundleD 7
14J.C.B.VD 6
15OrinocoS 4a 7
16TwilightMVS 4b *29
17Moanin'HS 4b **80
18AboutVD 5
19KantE1 5b 5
20Dat DerVS 4c **80
21Mom'sVS 4c 2
22JorduS 4a **196
23FifiHVS 5a *14
24FortissimoHVS 5a 6
25PianississimoVS 4c 35
26AkersVS 4c 10
27OrnithologyS 4a 52
28KestrelHVS 5a 10
29Odds OnHVS 5a *8
30VultureHVS 5a 3
31Odds On VariantHS 4b *22
32Pemba ChimneyVD 61
33ConcordeVD 14
34HarmonyHS 4b 2
35Main Wall RouteVS 4c 7
36Main Wall Route - Right Hand VariationVS 4c 1
37Weedy WallHVS 5a 3
38Birdland EliminateHVS 5a 3
39TwitterMVS 4b 4
40WingsS 4a **39
41BirdlandHS 4b 13
42Birdland DirectMVS 4b **53
43FreebirdVS 4c ***5
44Zig ZagHVS 4c *5
45Zig Zag Variant StartHVS 5b **2
46B.B.C.E2 5c 6
47CrackersE1 5b **5
48Jam with SamVS 4b *56
 Climb nameGradex
49PerdidoVS 4c 14
50DidoHVS 5a 1
51Headache CrackVS 4c 6
52PardonVS 4b 1
53GoneHS 4b *35
54Male MenopauseHVS 5a 1
55Milestones Super DirectE1 5b *8
56MilestonesHVS 5a *16
57TradHVS 5a *7
58Shades of GreyVS 4c *3
59FrenesiVS 4c ***63
60Close to the EdgeHVS 5a 2
61DownbeatVD *87
62UpstartS 4a 11
63WalkinS 4a 57
64The EdgeHVS 4c 7
65The Edge Alternative StartVS 4c *2
66FrustrationVS 4c 6
67SolitudeS 4a *92
68Solitude DirectMVS 4b 4
69Murton CaveD 49
70CobwebVD 25
71Cobweb VariationVD 2
72Mother BearHVS 5b 1
73Cosmonaut DirectHVS 5a *14
74CosmonautVS 4c *55
75Cosmonaut VariantVS 5a 6
76EvasionS 4a 10
77Evasion - Variation StartVS 4b  
78CentipedeS 4a 4
79MarsupialVS 4b 1
80The BroodE2 5b 1
81Char ParayE1 5b 1
82DeflationHS 4b 2
83Broken WallHVS 5a 2
84West ChimneyVD 3
85BiviE3 5c 3
86CampingE3 5c *1
87AstronautHVS 5a *4
88GeminiHVS 5a 1
89Mulligan ManiaHS 4b 12
90High Level TraverseVS 4c 9
91West Wall RouteMVS 4b 1
92Dis HereVS 4c 2
93Davy Jones' LockerM 1
94Palmsun ChimneyD 3
95Palmsun WallVD 1
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Simon Caldwell

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Got a sling stuck on Downbeat. Only held in where the sling has lipped up. Didnt have anything to cut it out, so will have to go back when i can to remove it.
ActionSte - 22/Jun/13

The infamous tree on ornithology has fallen down :( found it there, rotting on the floor when i went down for a look to see if the crag was dry the other day, what a shame.
Sam Marks - 05/Mar/13

A really good crag with an adventurous feel. The routes are often steep and juggy but take nuts and hexes well. there are also lots of chockstones! The routes stay mostly dry in the rain and muligan mania is an amusing option if its tipping it down. Overall, really good climbing. Good routes include Jordu, Muligan mania, solitude, freebird, ornithology and birdland. There is also numerous bivvies atop and below the crag.
Sam Marks - 02/Jul/11

Went last night for the first time last since last autumn's extensive tree clearance, and it's made a big difference - much more daylight and much less mud on the ground!
Simon Caldwell - 13/May/09

Climbed here since 1971 - first lead, first solo first VS were all at Peak Scar - later I discovered what proper limestone was on my first trip to Malham. But, it's still a great place to climb: don't be put off by first impressions! You might wonder where all the E1s are? Try a few HVSs and you will find out!!
allmag - 02/Feb/07

Amazing climbing. the limestone is solid and compact. the routes are steep and juggy. If your good on your pump you will love this place a long reach helps too. It stays dry in the wet, and can be a good wet weather option. The cliff is sheltered from rain but seepage is a great problem if it has rained in the last few days, sheltered from the wind too! It may appear to be loose but most of the main face is suburb for the north easted, and offers some great routes. Great local pub too, in Hornby
IanJackson - 11/Nov/06

Horrid, loose choss, go anywhere else but here .. its not limestone like anywhere else ...
JulesW - 09/Jun/06

Great Adventure Climbing, well worth the trip, some great routes. Bring Loads of Friends On a Dry Summer day, and you will be smiling ear to ear, unless your leader doesn't drop half the route on your head...wear a helmet. Plenty of Tree Belays so Take Large Slings.
robeverybody - 22/Apr/06

On arrival it's 'woohoo!', but on closer inspection its 'maaaaan....' I don't get how it's all standing still! On instpection you see that there are 'lintel' type shapes that curve out from the rock held up by either end only. (like a slightly arched foot bridge, if gravity turned and favoured the rock) climbs are very slimy and enough to create stress, and you must take your ordinary shoes up clipped to your harness as abseiling is out, and to walk back in your rock boots is not worth the mud! Hair dryer (for the rock!) and wellies essential!!!
steve parks - 19/Aug/05