Peak Scar

Climbs 96 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 231m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
It's limestone Jim, but not as we know it! It's a little soft and shallow - Friends do seem to pop, but on the E's you have no choice. Adds to the fun:)

The crag lies on the south side of a wooded gorge. Recent felling has made it much more open to the sky, making it both lighter and drier. The downside is that you can now see just how precariously stacked some of the blocks are!

Recommended routes: Downbeat (VD), Jordu (S), Solitude (S), Gone (HS 4b), Jam With Sam (VS 4b), Frenesi (VS 4c), Cosmonaut Direct (HVS 5a), The BBC (E2 5c).

Access notes
No groups, no dogs, no group abseiling.

>From S: From the Park visitor centre at the top of Sutton Bank, take the minor road signposted to Boltby. Turn left near a mast then after a long straight turn right at the T-junction. As the road enters woodland it begins to descend. Park with care. The crag lies beneath the road to the left.

>From N: head S out of Hawnby, cross the river, straight on at the junction and after 1 mi park, just after Murton Lodge, by the roadside. The crag is down and right.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.


Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1InertiaMVS 4b *3
2Inertia Variation StartHS 4b 2
3Easy CornerM 8
4White WallS 2
5SidewinderVD *32
6Keystone AreteVD 3
7Flaming ElbowHS 4b *1
8WolS 3c *5
9JonasHVD 9
10WebarS 4a 6
11ViperVD 4
12PrimoVD 4
13WombleVS 4b 7
14TrundleD 7
15J.C.B.VD 6
16OrinocoS 4a 7
17TwilightMVS 4b *30
18Moanin'HS 4b **87
19AboutVD 5
20KantE1 5b 6
21Dat DerVS 4c **87
22Mom'sVS 4c 2
23JorduS 4a **215
24FifiHVS 5a *17
25FortissimoHVS 5a 7
26PianississimoVS 4c 36
27AkersVS 4c 11
28 OrnithologyS 4a 55
29KestrelHVS 5a 10
30Odds OnHVS 5a *8
31VultureHVS 5a 3
32Odds On VariantHS 4b *22
33Pemba ChimneyVD 64
34ConcordeVD 14
35HarmonyHS 4b 2
36Main Wall RouteVS 4c 7
37Main Wall Route - Right Hand VariationVS 4c 1
38Weedy WallHVS 5a 4
39Birdland EliminateHVS 5a 4
40TwitterMVS 4b 4
41WingsS 4a **42
42BirdlandHS 4b 15
43Birdland DirectMVS 4b **62
44FreebirdVS 4c ***6
45Zig ZagHVS 4c *5
46Zig Zag Variant StartHVS 5b **2
47B.B.C.E2 5c 6
48CrackersE1 5b **5
49Jam with SamVS 4b *63
50PerdidoVS 4c 16
51DidoHVS 5a 1
52Headache CrackVS 4c 6
53PardonVS 4b 1
54GoneHS 4b *36
55Male MenopauseHVS 5a 1
56Milestones Super DirectE1 5b *8
57MilestonesHVS 5a *18
58TradHVS 5a *8
59Shades of GreyVS 4c *3
60FrenesiVS 4c ***71
61Close to the EdgeHVS 5a 2
62DownbeatVD *92
63UpstartS 4a 12
64WalkinS 4a 61
65The EdgeHVS 4c 9
66The Edge Alternative StartVS 4c *2
67FrustrationVS 4c 7
68SolitudeS 4a *98
69Solitude DirectMVS 4b 4
70Murton CaveD 51
71CobwebVD 28
72Cobweb VariationVD 2
73Mother BearHVS 5b 1
74Cosmonaut DirectHVS 5a *14
75CosmonautVS 4c *57
76Cosmonaut VariantVS 5a 6
77EvasionS 4a 11
78Evasion - Variation StartVS 4b  
79CentipedeS 4a 4
80MarsupialVS 4b 1
81The BroodE2 5b 1
82Char ParayE1 5b 1
83DeflationHS 4b 2
84Broken WallHVS 5a 2
85West ChimneyVD 3
86BiviE3 5c 3
87CampingE3 5c *1
88AstronautHVS 5a *4
89GeminiHVS 5a 1
90Mulligan ManiaHS 4b 14
91High Level TraverseVS 4c 11
92West Wall RouteMVS 4b 1
93Dis HereVS 4c 2
94Davy Jones' LockerM 1
95Palmsun ChimneyD 3
96Palmsun WallVD 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went here yesterday. I thought after 1 week of dry weather i gave it a visit. Still muddy and overgrown with nettles.needs weedol or napalm. Left hand end fairly solid but the battleship flake on pianissimo HAS widened and will surely go soon as will the obvious buttress of bbc/crackers.
RHINOS - 18/May/15
Got a sling stuck on Downbeat. Only held in where the sling has lipped up. Didnt have anything to cut it out, so will have to go back when i can to remove it.
ActionSte - 22/Jun/13
The infamous tree on ornithology has fallen down :( found it there, rotting on the floor when i went down for a look to see if the crag was dry the other day, what a shame.
Sam Marks - 05/Mar/13
A really good crag with an adventurous feel. The routes are often steep and juggy but take nuts and hexes well. there are also lots of chockstones! The routes stay mostly dry in the rain and muligan mania is an amusing option if its tipping it down. Overall, really good climbing. Good routes include Jordu, Muligan mania, solitude, freebird, ornithology and birdland. There is also numerous bivvies atop and below the crag.
Sam Marks - 02/Jul/11
Went last night for the first time last since last autumn's extensive tree clearance, and it's made a big difference - much more daylight and much less mud on the ground!
Simon Caldwell - 13/May/09
Climbed here since 1971 - first lead, first solo first VS were all at Peak Scar - later I discovered what proper limestone was on my first trip to Malham. But, it's still a great place to climb: don't be put off by first impressions! You might wonder where all the E1s are? Try a few HVSs and you will find out!!
allmag - 02/Feb/07
Amazing climbing. the limestone is solid and compact. the routes are steep and juggy. If your good on your pump you will love this place a long reach helps too. It stays dry in the wet, and can be a good wet weather option. The cliff is sheltered from rain but seepage is a great problem if it has rained in the last few days, sheltered from the wind too! It may appear to be loose but most of the main face is suburb for the north easted, and offers some great routes. Great local pub too, in Hornby
IanJackson - 11/Nov/06
Horrid, loose choss, go anywhere else but here .. its not limestone like anywhere else ...
JulesW - 09/Jun/06
Great Adventure Climbing, well worth the trip, some great routes. Bring Loads of Friends On a Dry Summer day, and you will be smiling ear to ear, unless your leader doesn't drop half the route on your head...wear a helmet. Plenty of Tree Belays so Take Large Slings.
robeverybody - 22/Apr/06
On arrival it's 'woohoo!', but on closer inspection its 'maaaaan....' I don't get how it's all standing still! On instpection you see that there are 'lintel' type shapes that curve out from the rock held up by either end only. (like a slightly arched foot bridge, if gravity turned and favoured the rock) climbs are very slimy and enough to create stress, and you must take your ordinary shoes up clipped to your harness as abseiling is out, and to walk back in your rock boots is not worth the mud! Hair dryer (for the rock!) and wellies essential!!!
steve parks - 19/Aug/05