Climbs 97
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 231m a.s.l
Faces N

Ian Myres at the "Sentry Box" on Milestones, Peak Scar. 1965. © Tony Marr

Crag features

It's limestone Jim, but not as we know it! It's a little soft and shallow - Friends do seem to pop, but on the E's you have no choice. Adds to the fun:)

The crag lies on the south side of a wooded gorge. Recent felling has made it much more open to the sky, making it both lighter and drier. The downside is that you can now see just how precariously stacked some of the blocks are!

Recommended routes: Downbeat (VD), Jordu (S), Solitude (S), Gone (HS 4b), Jam With Sam (VS 4b), Frenesi (VS 4c), Cosmonaut Direct (HVS 5a), The BBC (E2 5c).

Approach notes

No groups, no dogs, no group abseiling.

>From S: From the Park visitor centre at the top of Sutton Bank, take the minor road signposted to Boltby. Turn left near a mast then after a long straight turn right at the T-junction. As the road enters woodland it begins to descend. Park with care. The crag lies beneath the road to the left.

>From N: head S out of Hawnby, cross the river, straight on at the junction and after 1 mi park, just after Murton Lodge, by the roadside. The crag is down and right.

Access Advice

Following a fatality, the BMC agreed the following conditions with the landowner. - No large groups - No outdoor education or instructional groups - No dogs - all climbers must descend on foot - NO abseiling. Failure to comply with these requirements could result in a complete ban on climbing.

The North East England Guide provides warning on the stability of the following routes:-

Pianississimo (sic) to Kestrel.

Wings, BBC, Crackers

Gone

Many of the routes have steep grassy top outs.

Guidebooks

Went here yesterday. I thought after 1 week of dry weather i gave it a visit. Still muddy and overgrown with nettles.needs weedol or napalm. Left hand end fairly solid but the battleship flake on pianissimo HAS widened and will surely go soon as will the obvious buttress of bbc/crackers.
RHINOS - 18/May/15
Got a sling stuck on Downbeat. Only held in where the sling has lipped up. Didnt have anything to cut it out, so will have to go back when i can to remove it.
ActionSte - 22/Jun/13
The infamous tree on ornithology has fallen down :( found it there, rotting on the floor when i went down for a look to see if the crag was dry the other day, what a shame.
Sam Marks - 05/Mar/13
A really good crag with an adventurous feel. The routes are often steep and juggy but take nuts and hexes well. there are also lots of chockstones! The routes stay mostly dry in the rain and muligan mania is an amusing option if its tipping it down. Overall, really good climbing. Good routes include Jordu, Muligan mania, solitude, freebird, ornithology and birdland. There is also numerous bivvies atop and below the crag.
Sam Marks - 02/Jul/11
Went last night for the first time last since last autumn's extensive tree clearance, and it's made a big difference - much more daylight and much less mud on the ground!
Simon Caldwell - 13/May/09
Climbed here since 1971 - first lead, first solo first VS were all at Peak Scar - later I discovered what proper limestone was on my first trip to Malham. But, it's still a great place to climb: don't be put off by first impressions! You might wonder where all the E1s are? Try a few HVSs and you will find out!!
allmag - 02/Feb/07
Amazing climbing. the limestone is solid and compact. the routes are steep and juggy. If your good on your pump you will love this place a long reach helps too. It stays dry in the wet, and can be a good wet weather option. The cliff is sheltered from rain but seepage is a great problem if it has rained in the last few days, sheltered from the wind too! It may appear to be loose but most of the main face is suburb for the north easted, and offers some great routes. Great local pub too, in Hornby
IanJackson - 11/Nov/06
Horrid, loose choss, go anywhere else but here .. its not limestone like anywhere else ...
JulesW - 09/Jun/06
Great Adventure Climbing, well worth the trip, some great routes. Bring Loads of Friends On a Dry Summer day, and you will be smiling ear to ear, unless your leader doesn't drop half the route on your head...wear a helmet. Plenty of Tree Belays so Take Large Slings.
robeverybody - 22/Apr/06
On arrival it's 'woohoo!', but on closer inspection its 'maaaaan....' I don't get how it's all standing still! On instpection you see that there are 'lintel' type shapes that curve out from the rock held up by either end only. (like a slightly arched foot bridge, if gravity turned and favoured the rock) climbs are very slimy and enough to create stress, and you must take your ordinary shoes up clipped to your harness as abseiling is out, and to walk back in your rock boots is not worth the mud! Hair dryer (for the rock!) and wellies essential!!!
steve parks - 19/Aug/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1InertiaMVS 4b *3
2Inertia Variation StartHS 4b 2
3Easy Corner
-
M 9
4White Wall
-
S 2
5Sidewinder
-
VD *34
6Keystone AreteVD 3
7Flaming ElbowHS 4b *1
8WolS 3c *6
9JonasHVD 9
10Webar
-
S 4a 6
11Viper
-
VD 4
12Primo
-
VD 4
13Womble
-
VS 4b 7
14Trundle
-
D 8
15J.C.B.
-
VD 6
16Orinoco
-
S 4a 7
17Twilight
-
MVS 4b *31
18Toasty's Last StandHVS 5a? *1
19Moanin'
-
HS 4b **101
20AboutVD 5
21Kant
-
E1 5b 6
22Dat Der
-
VS 4c **98
23Mom's
-
VS 4c 2
24Jordu
-
S 4a **238
25Fifi
-
HVS 5a *19
26Fortissimo
-
HVS 5a 7
27Pianississimo
-
VS 4c 39
28Akers
-
VS 4c 11
29 OrnithologyS 4a 56
30Kestrel
-
HVS 5a 10
31Odds On
-
HVS 5a *8
32Vulture
-
HVS 5a 3
33Odds On Variant
-
HS 4b *23
34Pemba Chimney
-
VD 68
35Concorde
-
VD 14
36HarmonyHS 4b 2
37Main Wall Route
-
VS 4c 7
38Main Wall Route - Right Hand VariationVS 4c 1
39Weedy Wall
-
HVS 5a 4
40Birdland Eliminate
-
HVS 5a 4
41TwitterMVS 4b 4
42Wings
-
S 4a **47
43Birdland
-
HS 4b 15
44Birdland Direct
-
MVS 4b **70
45FreebirdVS 4c ***9
46Zig Zag
-
HVS 4c *7
47Zig Zag Variant Start
-
HVS 5b **2
48B.B.C.E2 5c 6
49Crackers
-
E1 5b **6
50Jam with Sam
-
VS 4b *72
51Perdido
-
VS 4c 16
52Dido
-
HVS 5a 1
53Headache Crack
-
VS 4c 6
54Pardon
-
VS 4b 1
55GoneHS 4b *39
56Male Menopause
-
HVS 5a 1
57Milestones Super Direct
-
E1 5b *8
58Milestones
-
HVS 5a *20
59Trad
-
HVS 5a *8
60Shades of Grey
-
VS 4c *4
61Frenesi
-
VS 4c ***80
62Close to the Edge (Fringe Benefits)
-
HVS 5a 2
63Downbeat
-
VD *108
64Upstart
-
S 4a 13
65Walkin
-
S 4a 69
66The Edge
-
HVS 4c 9
67Cutting EdgeVS 4c *3
68Frustration
-
VS 4c 8
69Solitude
-
S 4a *113
70Solitude DirectMVS 4b 5
71Murton Cave
-
D 55
72Cobweb
-
VD 31
73Cobweb Variation
-
VD 2
74Mother Bear
-
HVS 5b 1
75Cosmonaut Direct
-
HVS 5a *15
76Cosmonaut
-
VS 4c *69
77Cosmonaut Variant
-
VS 5a 6
78Evasion
-
S 4a 11
79Evasion - Variation Start
-
VS 4b  
80CentipedeS 4a 4
81Marsupial
-
VS 4b 1
82The Brood
-
E2 5b 1
83Char Paray
-
E1 5b 1
84Deflation
-
HS 4b 2
85Broken Wall
-
HVS 5a 2
86West Chimney
-
VD 3
87Bivi
-
E3 5c 3
88CampingE3 5c *1
89Astronaut
-
HVS 5a *4
90Gemini
-
HVS 5a 1
91Mulligan Mania
-
HS 4b 18
92High Level Traverse
-
VS 4c 11
93West Wall Route
-
MVS 4b 1
94Dis Here
-
VS 4c 2
95Davy Jones' Locker
-
M 1
96Palmsun Chimney
-
D 3
97Palmsun Wall
-
VD 1

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