Peak Scar

Climbs 96 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 231m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
It's limestone Jim, but not as we know it! It's a little soft and shallow - Friends do seem to pop, but on the E's you have no choice. Adds to the fun:)

The crag lies on the south side of a wooded gorge. Recent felling has made it much more open to the sky, making it both lighter and drier. The downside is that you can now see just how precariously stacked some of the blocks are!

Recommended routes: Downbeat (VD), Jordu (S), Solitude (S), Gone (HS 4b), Jam With Sam (VS 4b), Frenesi (VS 4c), Cosmonaut Direct (HVS 5a), The BBC (E2 5c).

Access notes
No groups, no dogs, no group abseiling.

>From S: From the Park visitor centre at the top of Sutton Bank, take the minor road signposted to Boltby. Turn left near a mast then after a long straight turn right at the T-junction. As the road enters woodland it begins to descend. Park with care. The crag lies beneath the road to the left.

>From N: head S out of Hawnby, cross the river, straight on at the junction and after 1 mi park, just after Murton Lodge, by the roadside. The crag is down and right.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks

Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1InertiaMVS 4b *
2Inertia Variation StartHS 4b
3Easy CornerM
4White WallS
5SidewinderVD *
6Keystone AreteVD
7Flaming ElbowHS 4b *
8WolS 3c *
9JonasHVD
10WebarS 4a
11ViperVD
12PrimoVD
13WombleVS 4b
14TrundleD
15J.C.B.VD
16OrinocoS 4a
17TwilightMVS 4b *
18Moanin'HS 4b **
19AboutVD
20KantE1 5b
21Dat DerVS 4c **
22Mom'sVS 4c
23JorduS 4a **
24FifiHVS 5a *
25FortissimoHVS 5a
26PianississimoVS 4c
27AkersVS 4c
28OrnithologyS 4a
29KestrelHVS 5a
30Odds OnHVS 5a *
31VultureHVS 5a
32Odds On VariantHS 4b *
33Pemba ChimneyVD
34ConcordeVD
35HarmonyHS 4b
36Main Wall RouteVS 4c
37Main Wall Route - Right Hand VariationVS 4c
38Weedy WallHVS 5a
39Birdland EliminateHVS 5a
40TwitterMVS 4b
41WingsS 4a **
42BirdlandHS 4b
43Birdland DirectMVS 4b **
44FreebirdVS 4c ***
45Zig ZagHVS 4c *
46Zig Zag Variant StartHVS 5b **
47B.B.C.E2 5c
48CrackersE1 5b **
49Jam with SamVS 4b *
50PerdidoVS 4c
51DidoHVS 5a
52Headache CrackVS 4c
53PardonVS 4b
54GoneHS 4b *
55Male MenopauseHVS 5a
56Milestones Super DirectE1 5b *
57MilestonesHVS 5a *
58TradHVS 5a *
59Shades of GreyVS 4c *
60FrenesiVS 4c ***
61Close to the EdgeHVS 5a
62DownbeatVD *
63UpstartS 4a
64WalkinS 4a
65The EdgeHVS 4c
66The Edge Alternative StartVS 4c *
67FrustrationVS 4c
68SolitudeS 4a *
69Solitude DirectMVS 4b
70Murton CaveD
71CobwebVD
72Cobweb VariationVD
73Mother BearHVS 5b
74Cosmonaut DirectHVS 5a *
75CosmonautVS 4c *
76Cosmonaut VariantVS 5a
77EvasionS 4a
78Evasion - Variation StartVS 4b
79CentipedeS 4a
80MarsupialVS 4b
81The BroodE2 5b
82Char ParayE1 5b
83DeflationHS 4b
84Broken WallHVS 5a
85West ChimneyVD
86BiviE3 5c
87CampingE3 5c *
88AstronautHVS 5a *
89GeminiHVS 5a
90Mulligan ManiaHS 4b
91High Level TraverseVS 4c
92West Wall RouteMVS 4b
93Dis HereVS 4c
94Davy Jones' LockerM
95Palmsun ChimneyD
96Palmsun WallVD
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Simon Caldwell

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Got a sling stuck on Downbeat. Only held in where the sling has lipped up. Didnt have anything to cut it out, so will have to go back when i can to remove it.
ActionSte - 22/Jun/13
The infamous tree on ornithology has fallen down :( found it there, rotting on the floor when i went down for a look to see if the crag was dry the other day, what a shame.
Sam Marks - 05/Mar/13
A really good crag with an adventurous feel. The routes are often steep and juggy but take nuts and hexes well. there are also lots of chockstones! The routes stay mostly dry in the rain and muligan mania is an amusing option if its tipping it down. Overall, really good climbing. Good routes include Jordu, Muligan mania, solitude, freebird, ornithology and birdland. There is also numerous bivvies atop and below the crag.
Sam Marks - 02/Jul/11
Went last night for the first time last since last autumn's extensive tree clearance, and it's made a big difference - much more daylight and much less mud on the ground!
Simon Caldwell - 13/May/09
Climbed here since 1971 - first lead, first solo first VS were all at Peak Scar - later I discovered what proper limestone was on my first trip to Malham. But, it's still a great place to climb: don't be put off by first impressions! You might wonder where all the E1s are? Try a few HVSs and you will find out!!
allmag - 02/Feb/07
Amazing climbing. the limestone is solid and compact. the routes are steep and juggy. If your good on your pump you will love this place a long reach helps too. It stays dry in the wet, and can be a good wet weather option. The cliff is sheltered from rain but seepage is a great problem if it has rained in the last few days, sheltered from the wind too! It may appear to be loose but most of the main face is suburb for the north easted, and offers some great routes. Great local pub too, in Hornby
IanJackson - 11/Nov/06
Horrid, loose choss, go anywhere else but here .. its not limestone like anywhere else ...
JulesW - 09/Jun/06
Great Adventure Climbing, well worth the trip, some great routes. Bring Loads of Friends On a Dry Summer day, and you will be smiling ear to ear, unless your leader doesn't drop half the route on your head...wear a helmet. Plenty of Tree Belays so Take Large Slings.
robeverybody - 22/Apr/06
On arrival it's 'woohoo!', but on closer inspection its 'maaaaan....' I don't get how it's all standing still! On instpection you see that there are 'lintel' type shapes that curve out from the rock held up by either end only. (like a slightly arched foot bridge, if gravity turned and favoured the rock) climbs are very slimy and enough to create stress, and you must take your ordinary shoes up clipped to your harness as abseiling is out, and to walk back in your rock boots is not worth the mud! Hair dryer (for the rock!) and wellies essential!!!
steve parks - 19/Aug/05
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These details were last updated on 30/Aug/2011

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