Peak Scar

Climbs 97 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 231m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
It's limestone Jim, but not as we know it! It's a little soft and shallow - Friends do seem to pop, but on the E's you have no choice. Adds to the fun:)

The crag lies on the south side of a wooded gorge. Recent felling has made it much more open to the sky, making it both lighter and drier. The downside is that you can now see just how precariously stacked some of the blocks are!

Recommended routes: Downbeat (VD), Jordu (S), Solitude (S), Gone (HS 4b), Jam With Sam (VS 4b), Frenesi (VS 4c), Cosmonaut Direct (HVS 5a), The BBC (E2 5c).

Approach notes
No groups, no dogs, no group abseiling.

>From S: From the Park visitor centre at the top of Sutton Bank, take the minor road signposted to Boltby. Turn left near a mast then after a long straight turn right at the T-junction. As the road enters woodland it begins to descend. Park with care. The crag lies beneath the road to the left.

>From N: head S out of Hawnby, cross the river, straight on at the junction and after 1 mi park, just after Murton Lodge, by the roadside. The crag is down and right.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks

Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1InertiaMVS 4b *3
2Inertia Variation StartHS 4b 2
3Easy CornerM 9
4White WallS 2
5SidewinderVD *33
6Keystone AreteVD 3
7Flaming ElbowHS 4b *1
8WolS 3c *6
9JonasHVD 9
10WebarS 4a 6
11ViperVD 4
12PrimoVD 4
13WombleVS 4b 7
14TrundleD 8
15J.C.B.VD 6
16OrinocoS 4a 7
17TwilightMVS 4b *31
18Toasty's Last StandHVS 5a? *1
19Moanin'HS 4b **95
20AboutVD 5
21KantE1 5b 6
22Dat DerVS 4c **95
23Mom'sVS 4c 2
24JorduS 4a **228
25FifiHVS 5a *19
26FortissimoHVS 5a 7
27PianississimoVS 4c 38
28AkersVS 4c 11
29 OrnithologyS 4a 56
30KestrelHVS 5a 10
31Odds OnHVS 5a *8
32VultureHVS 5a 3
33Odds On VariantHS 4b *22
34Pemba ChimneyVD 66
35ConcordeVD 14
36HarmonyHS 4b 2
37Main Wall RouteVS 4c 7
38Main Wall Route - Right Hand VariationVS 4c 1
39Weedy WallHVS 5a 4
40Birdland EliminateHVS 5a 4
41TwitterMVS 4b 4
42WingsS 4a **45
43BirdlandHS 4b 15
44Birdland DirectMVS 4b **66
45FreebirdVS 4c ***7
46Zig ZagHVS 4c *7
47Zig Zag Variant StartHVS 5b **2
48B.B.C.E2 5c 6
49CrackersE1 5b **5
50Jam with SamVS 4b *68
51PerdidoVS 4c 16
52DidoHVS 5a 1
53Headache CrackVS 4c 6
54PardonVS 4b 1
55GoneHS 4b *38
56Male MenopauseHVS 5a 1
57Milestones Super DirectE1 5b *8
58MilestonesHVS 5a *18
59TradHVS 5a *8
60Shades of GreyVS 4c *3
61FrenesiVS 4c ***76
62Close to the Edge (Fringe Benefits)HVS 5a 2
63DownbeatVD *105
64UpstartS 4a 13
65WalkinS 4a 65
66The EdgeHVS 4c 9
67Cutting EdgeVS 4c *3
68FrustrationVS 4c 7
69SolitudeS 4a *108
70Solitude DirectMVS 4b 5
71Murton CaveD 54
72CobwebVD 31
73Cobweb VariationVD 2
74Mother BearHVS 5b 1
75Cosmonaut DirectHVS 5a *14
76CosmonautVS 4c *61
77Cosmonaut VariantVS 5a 6
78EvasionS 4a 11
79Evasion - Variation StartVS 4b  
80CentipedeS 4a 4
81MarsupialVS 4b 1
82The BroodE2 5b 1
83Char ParayE1 5b 1
84DeflationHS 4b 2
85Broken WallHVS 5a 2
86West ChimneyVD 3
87BiviE3 5c 3
88CampingE3 5c *1
89AstronautHVS 5a *4
90GeminiHVS 5a 1
91Mulligan ManiaHS 4b 16
92High Level TraverseVS 4c 11
93West Wall RouteMVS 4b 1
94Dis HereVS 4c 2
95Davy Jones' LockerM 1
96Palmsun ChimneyD 3
97Palmsun WallVD 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Went here yesterday. I thought after 1 week of dry weather i gave it a visit. Still muddy and overgrown with nettles.needs weedol or napalm. Left hand end fairly solid but the battleship flake on pianissimo HAS widened and will surely go soon as will the obvious buttress of bbc/crackers.
RHINOS - 18/May/15
Got a sling stuck on Downbeat. Only held in where the sling has lipped up. Didnt have anything to cut it out, so will have to go back when i can to remove it.
ActionSte - 22/Jun/13
The infamous tree on ornithology has fallen down :( found it there, rotting on the floor when i went down for a look to see if the crag was dry the other day, what a shame.
Sam Marks - 05/Mar/13
A really good crag with an adventurous feel. The routes are often steep and juggy but take nuts and hexes well. there are also lots of chockstones! The routes stay mostly dry in the rain and muligan mania is an amusing option if its tipping it down. Overall, really good climbing. Good routes include Jordu, Muligan mania, solitude, freebird, ornithology and birdland. There is also numerous bivvies atop and below the crag.
Sam Marks - 02/Jul/11
Went last night for the first time last since last autumn's extensive tree clearance, and it's made a big difference - much more daylight and much less mud on the ground!
Simon Caldwell - 13/May/09
Climbed here since 1971 - first lead, first solo first VS were all at Peak Scar - later I discovered what proper limestone was on my first trip to Malham. But, it's still a great place to climb: don't be put off by first impressions! You might wonder where all the E1s are? Try a few HVSs and you will find out!!
allmag - 02/Feb/07
Amazing climbing. the limestone is solid and compact. the routes are steep and juggy. If your good on your pump you will love this place a long reach helps too. It stays dry in the wet, and can be a good wet weather option. The cliff is sheltered from rain but seepage is a great problem if it has rained in the last few days, sheltered from the wind too! It may appear to be loose but most of the main face is suburb for the north easted, and offers some great routes. Great local pub too, in Hornby
IanJackson - 11/Nov/06
Horrid, loose choss, go anywhere else but here .. its not limestone like anywhere else ...
JulesW - 09/Jun/06
Great Adventure Climbing, well worth the trip, some great routes. Bring Loads of Friends On a Dry Summer day, and you will be smiling ear to ear, unless your leader doesn't drop half the route on your head...wear a helmet. Plenty of Tree Belays so Take Large Slings.
robeverybody - 22/Apr/06
On arrival it's 'woohoo!', but on closer inspection its 'maaaaan....' I don't get how it's all standing still! On instpection you see that there are 'lintel' type shapes that curve out from the rock held up by either end only. (like a slightly arched foot bridge, if gravity turned and favoured the rock) climbs are very slimy and enough to create stress, and you must take your ordinary shoes up clipped to your harness as abseiling is out, and to walk back in your rock boots is not worth the mud! Hair dryer (for the rock!) and wellies essential!!!
steve parks - 19/Aug/05