Beacon Scar

Climbs 45 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 287m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
An impressive crag, fairly sheltered with typically good views from the top. It is prone to dirt washed down from above, but there are some fine routes when dry.

Two main buttresses, the left has belay bolts placed by a local centre. Recommended Routes: Party Line (VS), Gehenna (HVS), Tremor (E2) and Mongol (E2).

Access notes
From the A19 go through the village of Osmotherley, turn left at the end of the village. Follow this road over the moor to a parking place near the highest point of the road at 473003. Head south west on the Cleveland way for 1km to a stone wall. Pass through 2 gates in quick succession and take the small path through the woods on the right and drop down to the crag. Awkward to find from above; it lies in the woods on the scarp to the North of Osmotherly.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks

Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Penguin CrackD
2SunnysideD
3Sunnyside DirectVS 4b
4Tree GullyM
5Honeysuckle ChimneyM
6Alligator, Direct StartVS 4b
7After HoursVS 4b
8Alligator CrawlVD
9Yellow PerilE3 6a
10MongolE2 5c ***
11Mongol Variation FinishE2 5c *
12A Last FlingE5 6a
13SunsetHVD *
14The Magic FortressE2 5b
15EvensongD
16Vesper SongVS 4c
17VespersD
18MatinsD
19The BossA2 *
20Nail FileHVS 5b *
21Res PublicaE5 6c
22Party LineVS 4b **
23PlexorE1 5b
24Stump CornerVD
25Walking on SunshineS 4a
26Stump CrackD
27The Flying TrapezeVS 4c
28Routon RidgeS 4a
29North AreteVS 5a
30Birch WallS 4a
31Dead Wood SlabsS 4a
32SkateboardVS 4c *
33Skaters' CornerHS 4b *
34ExcavatorD
35Excavator Variation StartHVS 5b *
36GehennaHVS 5a **
37Gehenna Wall E7 6c
38Haunted HerosHVS 5a
39Beacon ButtressHVS 5a **
40EpicentreE3 6a
41TremorE2 5b **
42Green WallVS 4c
43The GrooveHS 4b
44Solo Wall (Paul's Wall)E2 5c
45Helter SkelterM
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Simon Caldwell

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Gehena is a classic E1, mongol a classic hard E2. Fat bastards looks good and there is a fair bit of hard FA pottential. Mint place i'm only just descovering.
The Soloist - 27/May/09
Well worth a visit in dry conditions - although many of the routes are unfortunately dusty (nothing that a large amount of netting / mesh on the unstable soil above plus several days intensive brushing wouldn't fix), the steeper classics are rather good - Mongol probably being the best. A word about the classic Gehenna (a good easy warm-up for the crag): This is graded for standard climbers, fairly at HVS 5a (not even E0), it's not graded for those aren't able to jam. This is the same as any other crack grading, and God help those who think it's harder than HVS if you ever go try some HVSes at say, Hen Cloud, Ramshaw, Wimberry etc, which are invariably a full grade harder than this route. Incidentally Beacon Buttress is a full grade harder than this route too.
Fiend - 12/May/09
Try Mongol, E25c, strenuous but protectable and worth 3* at least. Gehenna is well worth the struggle but Beacon Butress is 'interesting' if you believe the HVS 5a grade. For any route wait for a long spell of dry weather and take a good strong nylon brush to clean the dried mud off the holds.
allmag - 16/Aug/07
such a shame, this could be a really nice little crag but its so vegetated and dirty now there's hardly any useable holds on the starred routes unless you take some gardening tools with you. The rock is also so sandy, green and dirty that gear is questionable and smearing is out of the question on most parts. Would be wothwhile cleaning up though some lovely looking routes. Yes Simon I agree about Gehenna, I got spat out of the crack 4 times yesterday trying to pull up on vicious jams and there is certainly no chockstone to stand on anymore = I think the suggestion of E1 is more than realistic.
gilldando - 12/Mar/07
Visited Beacon Scar 19/9/05 and there had been a significant and apparantly recent rockfall to the left of the crag adacent to the descent path. I don't know the crag well enough to say which routes were affected but we were there for the easy slab routes of Vespers , Matins etc which were OK in their traditionaly dirty condition.
nocker - 27/Sep/05
and the only belay bolt that I could find was at the top of Vespers.
Simon Caldwell - 29/Jul/04
No sign of any loose block below Gehenna last night (29/07/04) so presumably it's fallen off. Gehenna is graded HVS, but judging by the failures on it last night, E1 is fair. The whole crag was very sandy and vegetated, and the only routes worth doing seemed to be the steep crack lines. Party Line in particular was unpleasantly dirty, and the starred easy routes (Skateboard and Skater's Corner) were unclimbable. Needs a drought combined with strong winds to clear some of the sand off! A local crag for local people...
Simon Caldwell - 29/Jul/04