Gehena is a classic E1, mongol a classic hard E2. Fat bastards looks good and there is a fair bit of hard FA pottential. Mint place i'm only just descovering.
The Soloist - 27/May/09
Well worth a visit in dry conditions - although many of the routes are unfortunately dusty (nothing that a large amount of netting / mesh on the unstable soil above plus several days intensive brushing wouldn't fix), the steeper classics are rather good - Mongol probably being the best.
A word about the classic Gehenna (a good easy warm-up for the crag): This is graded for standard climbers, fairly at HVS 5a (not even E0), it's not graded for those aren't able to jam. This is the same as any other crack grading, and God help those who think it's harder than HVS if you ever go try some HVSes at say, Hen Cloud, Ramshaw, Wimberry etc, which are invariably a full grade harder than this route. Incidentally Beacon Buttress is a full grade harder than this route too.
Fiend - 12/May/09
Try Mongol, E25c, strenuous but protectable and worth 3* at least. Gehenna is well worth the struggle but Beacon Butress is 'interesting' if you believe the HVS 5a grade. For any route wait for a long spell of dry weather and take a good strong nylon brush to clean the dried mud off the holds.
allmag - 16/Aug/07
such a shame, this could be a really nice little crag but its so vegetated and dirty now there's hardly any useable holds on the starred routes unless you take some gardening tools with you. The rock is also so sandy, green and dirty that gear is questionable and smearing is out of the question on most parts. Would be wothwhile cleaning up though some lovely looking routes.
Yes Simon I agree about Gehenna, I got spat out of the crack 4 times yesterday trying to pull up on vicious jams and there is certainly no chockstone to stand on anymore = I think the suggestion of E1 is more than realistic.
gilldando - 12/Mar/07
Visited Beacon Scar 19/9/05 and there had been a significant and apparantly recent rockfall to the left of the crag adacent to the descent path. I don't know the crag well enough to say which routes were affected but we were there for the easy slab routes of Vespers , Matins etc which were OK in their traditionaly dirty condition.
nocker - 27/Sep/05
and the only belay bolt that I could find was at the top of Vespers.
Simon Caldwell - 29/Jul/04
No sign of any loose block below Gehenna last night (29/07/04) so presumably it's fallen off.
Gehenna is graded HVS, but judging by the failures on it last night, E1 is fair.
The whole crag was very sandy and vegetated, and the only routes worth doing seemed to be the steep crack lines. Party Line in particular was unpleasantly dirty, and the starred easy routes (Skateboard and Skater's Corner) were unclimbable. Needs a drought combined with strong winds to clear some of the sand off!
A local crag for local people...
Simon Caldwell - 29/Jul/04