Climbs 228
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 232m a.s.l
Faces SE

Brain Dead © gache

Crag features

A superb, quick-drying outcrop of excellent quality grit up to 30m high. An ideal early year venue on a sunny day. Remove the cobwebs with the marvellous Suicide Wall (HVS 5a 5a), Tom Thumb (E2 5b) and the very fine E2 5c's Fern Hill and Five Finger Exercise. You could also push the top grades by an ascent of 'The Groove' (E9/10 7a). Fine, open bouldering at the top of the crag.

Since the vandalism in Feb 2013 please be very weary of the boulder problems with chipping - The exposed core in incredibly soft. It's going to take decades to recover.

Approach notes

Park as for Robin Hood's Stride.

There's also limited roadside parking below the crag on the B5056 (SK 228618). Follow the track leading to the left of the Tor.

Access Advice

To maintain access you MUST NOT take a short cut through the farm or across the field when coming from the southernly parking.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Left my lovely green Rab pullover fleece here. If anyone has spotted it a private message and possible pick-up location would be greatly appreciated :D
kabutsu - 01/Jul/12
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Cratcliffe Middle 
 Middle Slab 
3Middle SlabV0- 133
4Middle Slab RightV1 82
5Look at Me!
-
f7A+ *49
6Look RightV0+ 128
7Look Right - Sit Startf7A 50
8Look Right Eliminatef7A 9
 Razor Roof 
10Razor Aretef7A *38
11Razor Rooff6C *586
12RZA rooff7A+ ***71
13RZA roof RH finishf7B 9
14Razor Traverse Reversef7A 2
15Cave Wall
-
V3 *257
 Right of Razor 
17Slab in the Middlef5+ 2
18Crimpsf5 4
19The Blobf7A 1
20Green Lipped Musclef7C 1
21Thrutch Overf6C 1
22Blob Overf6C  
 Low Slab 
24Low Slab LHf5 4
25Low Slab Archf5 4
26Low Slab Middlef4 3
27Low Slab Traversef5+ 4
28Low Slab RHf6A 3
 Top Boulders 
 Squirm 
31Christmas Shoppingf7A+ 1
32The SquirmV0+ 317
33Scoop AreteV0 303
34Chips SlabV0 113
35Leg Press
-
V0 35
36Scoop
-
f3+ 285
 Top Rib 
38Top RibV2 **304
39Left Arete
-
V3 *150
40Flake ProblemV0- 245
 The Blob 
42Bob MantelV1 47
43Blob MantelV1 61
44Wall Right of Blob MantelV0- 19
 Hidden Boulder 
46Hidden AreteV1 63
47Hidden Arete With TraverseV2 13
48Suicide BummerV3 **12
 Junior 
50Junior Flake (sit-start)V0 12
51Junior FlakeV0- 134
52Junior AreteV0+ 127
53Junior SlabV0 153
54Junior ChipsV0- 55
55Back SlabV0- 59
 Last Boulder 
57Last Aretef6B **39
58Last Arete - Standing StartV0 73
59Through MantelV4 20
60Lip SlapV5 38
61Johnny's GrooveV4 83
62Foot TicklerV0 85
63Right Slab
-
V0 102
 Pink Slab 
65Easy SlabV0- 111
66Pink SlabV0- 384
67Pink AreteV0- 368
68Pink Slab RightV1 250
69Pink Slab Right - With Chips
-
V0 101
70Pink Slab Right - No Arete
-
V3 89
 Blind Pocket Wall 
72Blind Pocket Rib - Left EscapeV1 33
73Blind Pocket RibV2 241
74Blind Pocket Wall
-
V1 252
75Blind Pocket AreteV2 216
76Blind Pocket Traverse
-
V2 30
 The Ramp 
78The RompV0 29
79The Ramp
-
V0- 195
80The Ramp - Without Hands
-
V3 *29
81The Ramp Trending RightV0- 22
 Tree Boulders 
 The Egg 
84Left Egg AreteV0- 104
85Left Egg
-
V2 198
86Eggy ScoopsV0+ 231
87Egg Arete Leftf5 49
88Egg Aretef6A+ *276
89Eggs is Eggs
-
V8 *7
90Eggs is Eggs - Easier Startf7A 38
91Egged On
-
V2 90
92Scrambled Eggsf6A+ *4
 T Crack 
94T Crack
-
f7B ***180
95Mr Tf7B 1
96T Crack Slabf6C 1
 Below Jerry's 
98Slopey Green Traversef6C+ 3
99Green slopey traversef6C 27
 Jerry's 
101Little Robinf5 *65
102The Larkf7A **102
103The lark left handf7A *1
104Optimistic MegV4 9
105Jerry's Traverse
-
f7B ***151
 Crag Top Boulders 
 Serpico 
108Serpico
-
f6C *10
109Shunting Biscuits
-
f7A+ *1
110Munching Biscuitsf5 2
111Tim's Flutef5+ 3
112Marc's Schemef5+ 2
113Les and Lenf5 4
114Sam's Gamef4 1
 Converted 
116Divertedf3+ 1
117Convertedf7B ** 
118Oatibix Flakef3+ 3
 Low Slung 
120Low Slungf7A *35
121Lower Slungf7C  
 Tit 
123Tit Traverse
-
f7A *7
 Main Crag 
 Hermit's Cave and The Amphitheatre 
126Kilroy
-
E1 5c  
127Creeping Friend
-
E5 6b  
128Burning Buddhist
-
E4 5c  
129Tomorrow's Women
-
E4 6b  
130The Nemesis ExitHVS 5b *10
131Hermit's Cave Traverse
-
f6B ***74
132The FenceV0 33
133The BishopV3 32
134Chip and ThinV1 46
135Hermitage RibV2 *18
136Hermitage GrooveS 5a 13
137Sleight of Hand
-
E4 6a 3
138Hermitage CrackVS 5a *22
139Hermitage Hand JamV0+ 21
140Problem 32
-
f6B 1
141Problem 33
-
f6B  
142Hermitage ChimneyM 15
143Reticent Mass MurdererE4 6b ***9
144GenocideE6 6c ***8
145Tom ThumbE2 5c **81
146Enigma VariationsE5 6a *2
147Giant's StaircaseHVS 5a *127
148Giants ChimneyM 4
149NoperuE4 6a *2
150Magic Beansf6C 6
151BeanstalkE2 5c **127
 The Amphitheatre 
153Amphitheatre CrackM 8
154Bramble GrooveVS 4b 19
155Bramley's TraverseHS 4b 2
156Oblique ChimneyVD *25
157Darren Hawkins' Invisible NeckE4 5c  
158Elliott's UnconquerableHVS 5a *86
159Mephistopheles ExitHVS 5a *1
160Elliott's Right-handE1 5c 14
161Hey Turkey NeckE2 5c 5
162Weston's ChimneyVD 31
163Big Trianglef6B  
 Owl Gully 
165Boot HillE3 5c ***175
166Trick or TreatE3 5c **1
167300 Pounds of Musclin Manf7C+ 2
168Percy's Cornflake
-
V7 2
169The GrooveE9 7b *** 
170NutcrackerE2 5c **6
171Fern Hill IndirectE4 5c ***15
172Fern HillE2 5c ***442
173Owl GullyVD *122
174Tiger TraverseE2 5b *16
175Sedimental JourneyE4 6a *1
176Nettle WineE4 6b ***16
177Five Finger ExerciseE2 5c ***353
178Liquid AssetsE4 6b *1
 Suicide Wall 
180Pleasant Streetf7A  
181Bower Route 1HS 4b *135
182Direct StartVS 4c *5
183RenaissanceE2 6a *2
184RequiemE3 6a ***54
185Bailey Bridge
-
E2 5c 8
186The Long Distance RunnelE5 6c **2
187Suicide WallHVS 5b ***877
188Suicide Wall DirectE1 5c **2
189The Children's HouseE5 6c **3
190Stihl LifeE5 6a **2
191Oak Tree ChimneyVD 24
192SepulchraveHVS 5a **104
193MordauntE2 5b ***24
194Savage MessiahE2 5c **118
 North Wall 
196Stretch LimoE5 6b *2
197North ClimbS 4a *84
198The Little Greenie
-
E2 6a 1
199Niche DirectVS 4c *14
200Oak Tree Gully
-
M 2
201Pinchers' Wallf7A+ **1
202North WallVD *12
203Jimmy's CrackHVS 5b *68
204Invasion of the Cider Women Directf7A ***8
205Invasion of the Cider Women
-
E4 6c 1
206Samantha Muesli
-
E3 6a  
207Oi Grimer!
-
E1 5b 3
208Rocky's RevivalVS 4c *3
209Whose Line Is It Anyway?HVS 5a **5
 Crag Boulders 
 The Grimoire 
212Chess BoxerE6 6c **1
213Bagu Yaguf7B **1
214GrimoireE6 6c **7
215Bonfire of the Manateesf7A *1
 Sparrow 
217Sparrow/My Best Friend the Water Melon
-
f7C  
218Sparrow Right Wing
-
f7B  
219Nymphs and SatyrsE1 5c 1
220Thigh Masterf6C+  
 The Arch 
222The Arch
-
f6C+ *3
223Arch Aretef6A  
 Brian's 
225Brian's Private Arete
-
f7B *9
226Little Arete
-
V3  
 Brain Dead 
228Smooth
-
V2  
229Rouge
-
V1  
230Brain Deadf6C *76
231Skin Deep
-
V7  
 Quercus 
233QuercusE4 6b *1
234Slot Ladderf6A 3
235Edgucationf6A+ 4
 Hueco 
237Moss RidgeV2 1
238Percy's Start
-
f6C+ *2
239House of the Holeyf7C **1
240Chapel of Rest
-
f7A+ *24
241Wish
-
f7A+ *64
242No Huecof6C+ *41
 Above Hueco 
244Soaperstitionf6B+ 6
245Soap Dogerf6C *4
 P Crack 
247Seventy-Two
-
f6C *15
24872 Cratcliffef7A ***11
249Seventy-Two Direct
-
f7B *3
250P Crack
-
f7B *5
 Beyond 
252Brother Lee Love
-
V8  
 Unknown 
254Niamh's Double AreteV0  
255V CleftV0  
256LungeV0 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Bolehillbilly