Yarncliffe Quarry

Climbs 54 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 259m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A small quarry with two distinct sections. The LH is slabby, clean/polished (sometimes sandy) and slabby. Easy routes, Ant's Arete (HS 4a), Ant's Crack (S, worthwhile but popular with Outdoor Groups). RH section is steeper and although a bit dirty/green offers some great jamming routes, Sulu, STP and Fallpipe (all VS 4c), and Zapple (HVS 5b). Best route is the rarely climbed magnificent arête, Creme de la Creme (E5 6b)

Yarncliffe has just been treated to a clean up (March 2010). Many of the trees that were shading the crag have been removed or trimmed, and the routes cleaned up significantly. This should allow them to dry out and hopefully stay good - if people climb them!

Access notes
Situated near to the Fox House Inn - Grindleford Rd (B6521). Very limited parking at the entrance, otherwise walk from parking further north (top of Padley Gorge OS ref. SK 258800. Well served by buses.

DO NOT ABSEIL OVER POPULAR CLIMBS!
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), Eastern Grit (2006), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 ANT'S AREA 
2Ant's AreteHS 4a *
3Aphid's WallE1 5b *
4LatecomerHS 4b *
5Latecomer Direct StartV0 5a
6Soldier AntE3 5c
7Ant's CrackS 4a *
8Ant's WallHS 4a *
9Formica SlabHVS 4c
10Angular ClimbHVD
11CentipedeHVD
12Hidden CrackVS 5a
13Wake Me If I DieE1 5b
14Highway 61 RevisitedV1 5b
15Cardinal's AreteVS 4c *
 CARDINAL'S SLAB 
17Outdoor Centre RouteHVD
18Cardinal's SlabVS 4c
19ThreatenedHVS 5a
20Cardinal's CrackVS 4b *
21Chalked UpE1 5a
22Griffins WallHS 4a
23Caterpillar CornerS
24SuluVS 5a *
25Rhythm of CrueltyE3 5b *
26Capital CracksVS 5a
27Pedestal AreteVS 4b
28For The Final TimeE1 5b
29Pedestal CrackVS 4b
30Scoop-A-PoopHVS 5b
31Non-stop NightmareE1 5b
 THE BACK WALLS 
33Flying Without WingsE5 6b
34The Inverted JigsawE1 5b
35S.T.P.VS 4c *
36Rubble TroubleE3 5c
37Short ArêteS
38Bow Shaped WallHVS 4c
39Creme de la CremeE6 6b ***
40Crème de la Crème Startf7A+
41THEM!V9 7a
42Five MinutesE2 5b
43Fall PipeVS 4c **
44Zapple Left-handHVS 5a **
45ZappleHVS 5b ***
46ZappaE4 6a
47Trised CrackVS 4c
48StormfactorHVS 5b *
49Flaky ClimbS
50The SpurVS 4b
51The RowelVS 4b
52Short CrackVS 4c
53ContourVS
 ABOVE YARNCLIFFE QUARRY 
55Ants in Your PantsV0 5a
56Blonde on BlondeV1 5b
 PADLEY GORGE 
58MossatrocityV9 6c
59Mossatrocity Standing Startf7A *
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond

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