Yarncliffe Quarry

Climbs 55 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 259m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A small quarry with two distinct sections. The LH is slabby, clean/polished (sometimes sandy) and slabby. Easy routes, Ant's Arete (HS 4a), Ant's Crack (S, worthwhile but popular with Outdoor Groups). RH section is steeper and although a bit dirty/green offers some great jamming routes, Sulu, STP and Fallpipe (all VS 4c), and Zapple (HVS 5b). Best route is the rarely climbed magnificent arête, Creme de la Creme (E5 6b)

Yarncliffe has just been treated to a clean up (March 2010). Many of the trees that were shading the crag have been removed or trimmed, and the routes cleaned up significantly. This should allow them to dry out and hopefully stay good - if people climb them!

Access notes
Situated near to the Fox House Inn - Grindleford Rd (B6521). Very limited parking at the entrance, otherwise walk from parking further north (top of Padley Gorge OS ref. SK 258800. Well served by buses.

DO NOT ABSEIL OVER POPULAR CLIMBS!
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Eastern Grit (2015), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010), Peak NE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991),
Out of print: Eastern Grit (2006) (2006), Peak District: Bouldering (2004), Peak Gritstone East (2001)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ANT'S SLAB  
2Ant's AreteVS 4b *411
3Aphid's WallE1 5a *179
4LatecomerHS 4b *601
5Latecomer Direct StartV0 5a 62
6Soldier AntE3 5b *68
7Ant's CrackS 4a *679
8Ant's WallHS 4a **485
9Formica SlabHVS 4c 103
10Angular ClimbHVD 397
11CentipedeHVD 18
12Hidden CrackVS 5a *75
13Wake Me If I DieE1 5b 4
14Highway 61 RevisitedV1 5b 6
15Cardinal's AreteVS 4c *489
 CARDINAL'S SLAB  
17Outdoor Centre RouteVD 225
18Cardinal's SlabVS 5a *180
19Hoey's InnominateHVS 5a 29
20Cardinal's CrackVS 4b *259
21Chalked UpE1 5a *50
22Griffins WallHS 4b 6
23Caterpillar CornerS  
24SuluVS 5a *87
25Rhythm of CrueltyE4 5c *11
26Capital CracksVS 4c *156
27Pedestal AreteHS 4b *64
28For The Final TimeE1 5b 4
29Pedestal CrackVS 4b 2
30Scoop-A-PoopHVS 5b 6
31Non-stop NightmareE1 5b 5
 ZAPPLE AREA  
33Flying Without WingsE5 6b  
34The Inverted JigsawE1 5b 4
35S.T.P.VS 5a 43
36Rubble TroubleE3 5c  
37Short ArêteS 2
38Bow Shaped WallHVS 4c 2
39Creme de la CremeE6 6b ***10
40Crème de la Crème Startf7A+ 6
41THEM!f7C+ *3
42Five MinutesE2 5b  
43Fall PipeVS 4c **49
44Zapple Left-handHVS 5a ***26
45ZappleHVS 5b ***293
46ZappaE4 6a  
47Trised CrackVS 4c 11
48StormfactorHVS 5b 2
49Flaky ClimbVD 10
50The SpurVS 4b 3
51The RowelVS 4b  
52Short CrackVS 4c  
53ContourVS  
 ABOVE YARNCLIFFE QUARRY  
55Ants in Your PantsV0 5a 2
56Blonde on BlondeV1 5b 2
 PADLEY GORGE  
58MossatrocityV9 6c 22
59Mossatrocity Standing Startf7A *14
60Threatened *HVS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond

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