Climbs 55
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 259m a.s.l
Faces SW

Formica Slab © Phil West

Crag features

A small quarry with two distinct sections. The LH is slabby, clean/polished (sometimes sandy) and slabby. Easy routes, Ant's Arete (HS 4a), Ant's Crack (S, worthwhile but popular with Outdoor Groups). RH section is steeper and although a bit dirty/green offers some great jamming routes, Sulu, STP and Fallpipe (all VS 4c), and Zapple (HVS 5b). Best route is the rarely climbed magnificent arête, Creme de la Creme (E5 6b)

Yarncliffe has just been treated to a clean up (March 2010). Many of the trees that were shading the crag have been removed or trimmed, and the routes cleaned up significantly. This should allow them to dry out and hopefully stay good - if people climb them!

Approach notes

Situated near to the Fox House Inn - Grindleford Rd (B6521). Very limited parking at the entrance, otherwise walk from parking further north (top of Padley Gorge OS ref. SK 258800. Well served by buses.

DO NOT ABSEIL OVER POPULAR CLIMBS!

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Ant's Slab 
2Ant's AreteVS 4b *431
3Aphid's WallE1 5a *184
4LatecomerHS 4b *638
5Latecomer Direct Start
-
V0 68
6Soldier AntE3 5b *72
7Ant's CrackS 4a *716
8Ant's WallHS 4a **520
9Formica SlabHVS 4c 108
10Angular ClimbHVD 419
11CentipedeHVD 18
12Hidden CrackVS 5a *80
13Wake Me If I DieE1 5b 5
14Highway 61 RevisitedV1 7
15Cardinal's AreteVS 4c *513
 Cardinal's Slab 
17Outdoor Centre RouteVD 239
18Cardinal's SlabVS 5a *192
19Hoey's Innominate (aka Threatened)HVS 5a 38
20Cardinal's CrackVS 4b *270
21Chalked UpE1 5a *53
22Griffins WallHS 4b 6
23Caterpillar Corner
-
S  
24SuluVS 5a *98
25Rhythm of CrueltyE4 5c *11
26Capital CracksVS 4c *163
27Pedestal AreteHS 4b *69
28For The Final Time
-
E1 5b 4
29Pedestal Crack
-
VS 4b 2
30Scoop-A-PoopHVS 5b 6
31Non-stop NightmareE1 5b 6
 Zapple Area 
33Flying Without Wings
-
E5 6b  
34The Inverted JigsawE1 5b 4
35S.T.P.VS 5a 47
36Rubble Trouble
-
E3 5c  
37Short Arête
-
S 2
38Bow Shaped Wall
-
HVS 4c 2
39Creme de la CremeE6 6b ***10
40Crème de la Crème Startf7A+ 6
41THEM!f7C+ *3
42Five Minutes
-
E2 5b  
43Fall PipeVS 4c **50
44Zapple Left-handHVS 5a ***27
45ZappleHVS 5b ***314
46ZappaE4 6a  
47Trised CrackVS 4c 12
48StormfactorHVS 5b 3
49Flaky ClimbVD 10
50The SpurVS 4b 4
51The Rowel
-
VS 4b  
52Short Crack
-
VS 4c  
53ContourVS  
 Above Yarncliffe Quarry 
55Ants in Your PantsV0 2
56Blonde on BlondeV1 2
 Padley Gorge 
58MossatrocityV9 26
59Mossatrocity Standing Startf7A *18

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