Harborough Rocks

Climbs 87 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 310m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A delightful, open mini-edge around 6m high. Along with Rainster Rocks offers a unique experience of climbing on dolomitic limestone, a highly pocketed, juggy rock. Super soloing or family picnic venue in summer (if you can zone out the factory noise). Nothing too hard except the short but sharp VSs. Best routes are Steeple Arete (VD), Trident Arete (HD) and Creased Wall (VS 4c). Other strange shaped pinnacles in the area to explore and some low grade bouldering on both tiers. Breezy and therefore midge-free and quick-drying.

Access notes
From Longcliffe (SK 227557) on the B5056 head south for Brassington. After 3/4 mile turn left and in a similar distance the edge will be seen on the left. Follow footpath which starts just after the 'Brickworks'.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak District : Climbing (2008), On Peak Rock (2003),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE STEEPLE  
2Introductory WallD 298
3Cave ChimneyS 4a 114
4Gobbler's RoofE7 6c * 
5Skylight ChimneyVD *116
6Cave Buttress AreteD 26
7Cave crackVD 57
8Overhang Wall DirectVD *42
9Overhanging Wall VariantVD **504
10Overhanging WallS 4b **327
11Overhanging Chimney DirectS 4a **247
12Overhanging Chimney IndirectVD 146
13PocketsS 4c 238
14CracksHVS 5b 128
15JugVS 5a *331
16Jug Right-handf4+ *27
17Pedestal CrackS 4a *481
18Concave WallHVD 4a *356
19Steeple AreteVD *545
20Arachnidnone 6a/b 9
21Spider ChimneyHVD 3c *176
22<New route claim>Unknown 4HS 4c *17
23Harborough CrackHS 4b *154
24Orange Peelnone 5c 9
25Little AreteD 355
26Useful Gully Aretef4 *14
27Bow RidgeVD 291
28Bow CornerHVD 242
29Bow-Shaped WallVS 5a 193
30Suzannes shoulderMS 4a 5
 CREASED WALL  
32Bow AreteD 361
33Bow Arete Rightf4 34
34Pocketed wall 1f3 13
35Pocketed Wall 2f3+ 16
36Pocketed Wall 3f3 14
37Pocketed Wall 4f3 *14
38Thin AirVS 4b *317
39Creased WallHVS 5a **216
40Crinkle CrackHS 4b *290
41Steep RidgeVD *473
42Little GullyD 257
43Adderley's RouteD 194
44The FurrowS 4b 180
 TRIDENT BUTTRESS  
46The BlasterHVS 5b 210
47Little DiagonalVD 200
48Little CornerVD 215
49Little CrackS 4b *282
50Little WallVS 4b 16
51Little Little CrackVD 250
52Little ChimneyM 228
53Chimney AreteVD 215
54Scooped WallVD 232
55Scooped DirectHVS 5a 24
56<New route claim> BecE1 5b *21
57DesperationS 4a 192
58<New route claim> Leesey PeasyS 4a 5
59Trident FaceVD *451
60Trident EliminateHS 4b *356
61Trident GrooveVD *518
62Trident AreteVD *651
63Trident ObverseD 179
 THE ARETE  
65Shortyf4+ 48
66Mantel Wallf4 50
67Cracked WallHVS 5b 159
68<New route claim> Unknown1HS 4b 8
69Overhanging CrackVS 5a 206
70<New route claim>Unknown2VD 9
71The AreteS 4a *433
72BlinkersVS 5a *202
73Legs OverVS 4b *251
 LOWER TIER BOULDER PROBLEMS  
75Left Bulgef5+ 52
76Right Bulgef5 *55
77Cracked Aretef3 64
78Slab Wallf5 **50
79Flake Mantelf3 62
80Cod Eye Wallf5+ **43
81Cod BellyV0+ 5a 7
82Groove Aretef4+ *12
83Sharp Bulgef5 41
84Flake Sitter Leftf4 54
85Flake Sitterf4+ 44
86Final Wallf3 42
 UNKNOWN PROBLEMS AND ROUTES  
88Dudley *V2 *1
89The Arete (Harborough Rocks) *S 4a 2
90Cristiana Swing *S 4a  
91Pockets Traverse *f5+ 1
 LITTLE BUTTRESS  
93Noodle's Arete *V2  
94Noodle's Wall *V4  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Just Tintin

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Polished... Polished... Polished! What else can be said.
Jordanh031 - 21/Apr/14
Parking is realy close to the rock just a bit right of the quarry as a warning though if you go in the week the quarry is realy noisy so best to wait till the weekend. from the carpark area (suitable for about five cars) its a short walk to the rocks. The rocks themself are realy nice to climb and there realy is something for all the family. Theres plenty of places for protection while climbing and when you get to the top more than enough to setup a few top ropes and let them get on with it.
ophielle - 17/Jun/11
Great little crag once you zone out the (noisy) factory below. Giant holds abound and natural protection appears relatively reliable for a limestone venue. Polish was present in places but was considerably better than somewhere like Hutton Roof. I'll be back
davidparkinson - 22/Feb/11
Was I having a good day after a long time on the grit or is the whole crag undergraded?
fenclimb - 06/Jul/05
Very cute place, pity about the factory below. Best boulder problem is the obvious smooth wall some yards left of Creased Wall - fingery V2-ish direct up the centre.
Fiend1 - 14/Jan/05
Climbing here is great - lots to do, some good routes with interesting things to hang off and an excellent place to learn to set belays, lead etc. But dont expect a peaceful 'get away from it all' experience as the Brickworks emits a steady stream of earsplitting noise! Arghhhhhhh!
Patrick Carmichael - 12/Sep/04
According to the OS maps, this crag is spelt Harboro Rocks. Popoular with groups.
Paul - 17/Apr/03
the guide book refers to two rusting water tanks when it talks about how to find the cave at the lefh hand edge. These are no longer there. But the whole area isnt that big if you follow the footpath up to the edge and walk a few meters to the left the cave is very easy to find
annie - 13/Apr/02