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These details were last updated on 09/Apr/2012

Saltdean

East Sussex, ENGLAND

Climbs 73 – Rocktype Chalk – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
Chalk sea cliffs with many established climbs up to 25m in height. The chalk is variable in stability and care must be taken. There is in-situ gear consisting of bolts, warthogs, and bull dogs. These are not maintained by the BMC. Bear in mind that the medium in which the gear is fixed is not totally reliable. Many routes have lower-offs which are generally reliable but need inspection given that no organisation is responsible for their maintainance. The crag is also an excellent venue for traversing with possibilities beyond those described in the CC guide. The crag is largely tidal with the exception of the routes to the West of the Pipe area.

The Climbers Club guide to the crags is available online for free here:

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/chalk.pdf

Since publication the 4x4 area has collapsed and three new routes put up in replacement of these. See the Climbers Club new climbs section for details:

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/newroutes/nr-se-sandstone.html

Please adhere to the following ethics:

* Only use the established holds on the routes. Do not create intermediate holds.

* Axes should be gently placed in the holds in order not to damage them or cause the surrounding chalk to fracture. Do not treat the cliffs as an ice climbing venue as you will damage the holds with heavy swings and contribute to sections of the route fracturing off.

* Mono point crampons should also be used in order to preserve the placements.

There is an agreement with the National Trust that there is no topping-out in order to protect the rare flora along the top of the crag and doing may compromise access. Bird bans have sometimes been applied. Please check the BMC access notes by the following the link below.

Chalk grades are quoted as being one to two grades higher than equivalent mixed grades in the Southern Sandstone guidebook. Given that there are no chalk grades in the logbook, I have uniformly converted to mixed M grades by uniformily lowering by 1 grade. Bear in mind that C grades are difficult to compare to M grades. Whilst the sequence of hooks may be easier, the routes are a lot more commiting due to the instability of chalk and falling on in-situ gear not recommended. Routes may also change with time due to collapses, sometimes stripping bolts locally. Check that there is sufficient in-situ gear before attempting a route.

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 

0.3mm rain
Sunny periods
11 °C
22 kph

24.6mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
26 kph

2.2mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
23 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
12 °C
15 kph

0.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
19 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Southern Sandstone (2008)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE WESTERN CLIFF  
2Saltdean SlabII 4
3Direct RouteIV 2
4RelaxV 2
5Turbo ButtressM4 1
6Lime WallV  
7Selden ArmsM5+ 1
8Tiptoe through the TulipsIV 4
9Brighton RockIV 2
10Just a Perfect DayM4  
11Stormy SeasV  
12HawkM5+ 3
13FulmarM5 9
 THE WEST OF THE PIPE AREA  
15Stegosaurus DirectM6+ 3
16Back to the FutureM5 10
17The Strangeness and the Charm of the QuarkM4 18
18The Strangeness and the Charm of the Quark (Direct)M5 8
19Back UpM4 23
20Back Off Back OnM4 23
21Back in TimeM4 33
22Wall to the right of Back in TimeM4 2
23Arête to the right of Back in TimeM4 3
24Unnamed RouteM4 15
25St JeromeIII 3
26Day DreamingM3+ 19
27Day Dreaming (Direct)M4 5
28Choss ChalkM3  
29Choice ChalkM2+  
30The Thin White LineM4 2
 SIX OF THE BEST  
32Chalk CrumbleM6+  
33Four PlayM2+ 2
34Six PackM4+  
35FournicationM2+ 1
36The Slab RouteM3 21
37Slab AvalancheM2+  
38The Slab ExtensionM2+ 4
39The Slab DirectM4 4
40Cotswold Guildford goes OutdoorsM6 3
 Climb nameGradex
41The RampM3 1
424x4M3 1
43Police 5M4  
44Christmas CrackerM5 2
45Claus for ChalkM4+ 2
46Fight ClubM5+  
47Beats the GymM6  
48Let the Bloodletting beginM6  
49Justified and AncientM7+ 1
50After EightM7 1
517-UPM6 2
527-UP (Right-hand)M6 1
53S Club 7M6 5
54SchizophreniaM7 1
55Split PersonalityM6 4
56Surf's UpM7 2
57SlashedM6  
58Star LightM7  
59StargazerM7  
60Get into the GrooveM5 2
61Mediterranean BlueM7 1
62Flintstones Go Club MedM7  
 SEAWARD FACE  
64Everyman's RouteM4 10
65Kathy Come HomeM7 2
66Blade RunnerM4+  
 THE PLEASURE-DOME  
68White LineM6  
69The White RoomM6+  
70DoglegM5+  
71The Beautiful GameM4 1
72InitM6  
 EAST OF THE PLEASURE DOME  
74Cold FrontM4+ 1
 THUNDER DOME  
76No FreedomM7+  
77NamelosM6+  
78Freedom FightersM9  
79Something in the WaterM7+  
80The Beauty of ChalkM4 2
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Access notes
There are notes in the Southern Sandstone Guide and this should be read as some nesting and flora exclusion zone restrictions may apply.

Please consult the BMC access and conservation section before climbing at this crag.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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