Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Andy Matthews inspecting The Crack HVS 5a* at Parbold Quarry © Jimbo MSider
The quarry is buried in some trees just off the path and so does not get copious amounts of sun despite its aspect. As the guide says, "Upon initial inspection it would seem Parbold is almost as bad as some of the things people climb on in the South West! However some of the climbs are quite good and deserve more attention, which would raise the status of the venue to that of a typical small crag in the Peak District."
Tends to seep after heavy rain and due to its low popularity some routes need cleaning. The lower grade routes are generally good but unprotected, with the best routes being the top end graded routes. Some of the lower graded routes a loose. Best route "A Worthwhile Pastime - But a Sad Ambition" (E5 6c, was A2) with a monster crux above a rotten old peg that hardly holds your body weight.
The two sport routes are among the best in the quarry and there is plenty of scope for bouldering at low level and on the smaller walls with a mat. Dont forget insect repellent in summer.
It is definitely recommended to take a brush as some routes need a lot of cleaning. Trees at the top give excellent anchors making top roping popular, the crag does offer exciting opportunities for the beginner.
Easy to find, about 400m from the main road on the only path. Access is unclear, there are no entry signs but no-one ever seems to mind as quarrying has long finished. Pub next to the car park.