A pleasant and popular cliff, especially in winter when it dries very quickly. Routes are around 100ft and there are both single and multi pitch routes available. Classic slab routes are Diamond Rib (HS), Median (HVS 5a) technical but potentially well protected, Nervous Laughter (E1 5b), and the Meadfoot Girdle (E2) - sustained and a good line, but please climb it only when the the cliff is quiet.
Many trees have been felled at the top of the crag so previous tree belays are now stumps. Some are usable, some are poor. Consider bringing a set up line to build your belays from the remaining trees further back. 2011
Very useful photo-topo here...
From Daddyhole Plain car park, follow a path left (facing out to sea) down some concrete steps. Turn right and follow a muddy path through a wood until you reach a fence on the right. Pass right of this to reach the topout of Median and follow zig-zag paths to the quarry floor or continue on the main path until you reach a viewing area and another easy decent path from there. Although the quarry is non-tidal there are enjoyable sea-level traverses starting from Meadfoot which can be climbed at any state of tide but increase in difficulty as the water rises.
Access Problem Torbay Council are working on this crag No Access for 4 weeks from 4th March 2014.
|4||Diamond Rib||HS 4b **||286|
|6||Nervous Laughter||E1 5b||27|
|7||Third Time Lucky||HVS 5a *||55|
|9||Ken's Route||E3 5b *||3|
|10||Median Lucky||E1 5b *||35|
|11||Median||HVS 5a *||84|
|12||Grand Slam||E2 5b||15|
|14||Rubber Soul||HVS 5a||51|
|15||Nest Egg||S *||174|
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|Climbed in Meadfoot recently and was dissapointed to find the tree on 'Tree route'had been cut down. Can't see the point in doing this as it's been there for so long. It's changed the character of the climb too, and the top section feels more exposed than it used to!|
robbiesnugfit - 29/Sep/10
|Torbay council? have taken it upon themselve to do some gardening at the top of this crag and Telegraph hole. It appears they had an extra few days worth of hiring chainsaws, have rid the top of the crag of probably 3/4 of the trees and hence most of the convenient belays. In addition to this they have removed the tree on Tree Root. The options for setting up a belay on some of the routes are now a bit limited and you may be best advised to take a spare or 60m rope to be able to setup off something more than a 3" high stump.|
Karriless - 19/Apr/10