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These details were last updated on 09/Jan/2013

Meadfoot Quarry

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 25 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features
A pleasant and popular cliff, especially in winter when it dries very quickly. Routes are around 100ft and there are both single and multi pitch routes available. Classic slab routes are Diamond Rib (HS), Median (HVS 5a) technical but potentially well protected, Nervous Laughter (E1 5b), and the Meadfoot Girdle (E2) - sustained and a good line, but please climb it only when the the cliff is quiet.

Many trees have been felled at the top of the crag so previous tree belays are now stumps. Some are usable, some are poor. Consider bringing a set up line to build your belays from the remaining trees further back. 2011

Very useful photo-topo here...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=130419

Thanks Kafoozalem!

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Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Central SlabsVD 145
2Diamond RibHS 4b **218
3MaydayVD 76
4Nervous LaughterE1 5b 21
5Third Time LuckyHVS 5a *48
6DemeterE1 5b 19
7Ken's RouteE3 5b *3
8Median LuckyE1 5b *25
9MedianHVS 5a *67
10Grand SlamE2 5b 12
11RevolverE1 5b 42
 Climb nameGradex
12Rubber SoulHVS 5a 36
13Nest EggS *147
14Tree RootVD 80
15Pegs ProgressE3 5c *23
16Drop ZoneE6 6c *1
17Clotted CreamE3 5c **12
18RainydayA1 2
19HermedaVS 4b 55
20MalingererVD 23
21The Meadfoot GirdleE2 5c *4
22GulliverD 4
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Access notes
From Daddyhole Plain car park, follow a path left (facing out to sea) down some concrete steps. Turn right and follow a muddy path through a wood until you reach a fence on the right. Pass right of this to reach the topout of Median and follow zig-zag paths to the quarry floor or continue on the main path until you reach a viewing area and another easy decent path from there. Although the quarry is non-tidal there are enjoyable sea-level traverses starting from Meadfoot which can be climbed at any state of tide but increase in difficulty as the water rises.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Volunteer to moderate Meadfoot Quarry
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Climbed in Meadfoot recently and was dissapointed to find the tree on 'Tree route'had been cut down. Can't see the point in doing this as it's been there for so long. It's changed the character of the climb too, and the top section feels more exposed than it used to!
robbiesnugfit ? - 29/Sep/10

Torbay council? have taken it upon themselve to do some gardening at the top of this crag and Telegraph hole. It appears they had an extra few days worth of hiring chainsaws, have rid the top of the crag of probably 3/4 of the trees and hence most of the convenient belays. In addition to this they have removed the tree on Tree Root. The options for setting up a belay on some of the routes are now a bit limited and you may be best advised to take a spare or 60m rope to be able to setup off something more than a 3" high stump.
Karriless ? - 19/Apr/10