Meadfoot Quarry

Climbs 28 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features
A pleasant and popular cliff, especially in winter when it dries very quickly. Routes are around 100ft and there are both single and multi pitch routes available. Classic slab routes are Diamond Rib (HS), Median (HVS 5a) technical but potentially well protected, Nervous Laughter (E1 5b), and the Meadfoot Girdle (E2) - sustained and a good line, but please climb it only when the the cliff is quiet.

Many trees have been felled at the top of the crag so previous tree belays are now stumps. Some are usable, some are poor. Consider bringing a set up line to build your belays from the remaining trees further back. 2011

Very useful photo-topo here...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=130419

Thanks Kafoozalem!

Access notes
From Daddyhole Plain car park, follow a path left (facing out to sea) down some concrete steps. Turn right and follow a muddy path through a wood until you reach a fence on the right. Pass right of this to reach the topout of Median and follow zig-zag paths to the quarry floor or continue on the main path until you reach a viewing area and another easy decent path from there. Although the quarry is non-tidal there are enjoyable sea-level traverses starting from Meadfoot which can be climbed at any state of tide but increase in difficulty as the water rises.

Access Problem Torbay Council are working on this crag No Access for 4 weeks from 4th March 2014.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MAIN CRAG 
2FynniganD
3Central SlabsVD
4Diamond RibHS 4b **
5MaydayVD
6Nervous LaughterE1 5b
7Third Time LuckyHVS 5a *
8DemeterE1 5b
9Ken's RouteE3 5b *
10Median LuckyE1 5b *
11MedianHVS 5a *
12Grand SlamE2 5b
13RevolverE1 5b
14Rubber SoulHVS 5a
15Nest EggS *
16Tree RootVD
17RampantE3 5b *
18Pegs ProgressE3 5c *
19Drop ZoneE6 6c *
20Fawlty TowersE3 6a **
21Clotted CreamE4 5c **
22RainydayA1
23HermedaVS 4b
24MalingererVD
25HypochondriacVD
26The Meadfoot GirdleE2 5c *
 SEAWARD PINNACLE 
28Lamb's Tail3
29GulliverD
30Pig's EarS 4a
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Climbed in Meadfoot recently and was dissapointed to find the tree on 'Tree route'had been cut down. Can't see the point in doing this as it's been there for so long. It's changed the character of the climb too, and the top section feels more exposed than it used to!
robbiesnugfit - 29/Sep/10
Torbay council? have taken it upon themselve to do some gardening at the top of this crag and Telegraph hole. It appears they had an extra few days worth of hiring chainsaws, have rid the top of the crag of probably 3/4 of the trees and hence most of the convenient belays. In addition to this they have removed the tree on Tree Root. The options for setting up a belay on some of the routes are now a bit limited and you may be best advised to take a spare or 60m rope to be able to setup off something more than a 3" high stump.
Karriless - 19/Apr/10