Climbs 28
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 24m a.s.l
Faces SE

Latest attempt on Clotted Cream - in sweltering March weather. © Brian H

Crag features

A pleasant and popular cliff, especially in winter when it dries very quickly. Routes are around 100ft and there are both single and multi pitch routes available. Classic slab routes are Diamond Rib (HS), Median (HVS 5a) technical but potentially well protected, Nervous Laughter (E1 5b), and the Meadfoot Girdle (E2) - sustained and a good line, but please climb it only when the the cliff is quiet.

Many trees have been felled at the top of the crag so previous tree belays are now stumps. Some are usable, some are poor. Consider bringing a set up line to build your belays from the remaining trees further back. 2011

Very useful photo-topo here...

Thanks Kafoozalem!

Approach notes

From Daddyhole Plain car park, follow a path left (facing out to sea) down some concrete steps. Turn right and follow a muddy path through a wood until you reach a fence on the right. Pass right of this to reach the topout of Median and follow zig-zag paths to the quarry floor or continue on the main path until you reach a viewing area and another easy decent path from there. Although the quarry is non-tidal there are enjoyable sea-level traverses starting from Meadfoot which can be climbed at any state of tide but increase in difficulty as the water rises.

Access Problem Torbay Council are working on this crag No Access for 4 weeks from 4th March 2014.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Climbed in Meadfoot recently and was dissapointed to find the tree on 'Tree route'had been cut down. Can't see the point in doing this as it's been there for so long. It's changed the character of the climb too, and the top section feels more exposed than it used to!
robbiesnugfit - 29/Sep/10
Torbay council? have taken it upon themselve to do some gardening at the top of this crag and Telegraph hole. It appears they had an extra few days worth of hiring chainsaws, have rid the top of the crag of probably 3/4 of the trees and hence most of the convenient belays. In addition to this they have removed the tree on Tree Root. The options for setting up a belay on some of the routes are now a bit limited and you may be best advised to take a spare or 60m rope to be able to setup off something more than a 3" high stump.
Karriless - 19/Apr/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2FynniganD 2
3Central SlabsVD 187
4Diamond RibHS 4b **318
5MaydayVD 110
6Nervous LaughterE1 5b 34
7Third Time LuckyHVS 5a *59
8DemeterE1 5b 28
9Ken's RouteE3 5b *3
10Median LuckyE1 5b *39
11MedianHVS 5a *97
12Grand SlamE2 5b 15
13RevolverE1 5b 53
14Rubber SoulHVS 5a 57
15Nest Egg
S *204
16Tree Root
VD 120
17RampantE3 5b *3
18Pegs ProgressE3 5c *34
19Drop ZoneE6 6c *1
20Fawlty TowersE3 6a **2
21Clotted CreamE4 5c **22
22RainydayA1 3
VS 4b 75
VD 32
25HypochondriacVD 1
26The Meadfoot GirdleE2 5c *4
28Lamb's Tail3 1
29GulliverD 7
30Pig's EarS 4a 1

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