Climbs 23 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 52m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Very much a local crag - very plesant setting by the river Wear. Varied bouldering with natural lines up to about 6a/b, around 5 metres [yes 5, not 50! - Ed.] high and about 20m long. Many eliminates and traverses possible and often done. Dries fairly quickly, but can be a touch dirty after rain or in the winter - bring a toothbrush. The crag is above the main path which can be muddy, so bring a mat/bar-towel to stand on. [Dave Parry]

[Crag coordinates corrected, we hope, 6/05; further accuracy welcomed - UKC Ed]

No current guidebook (still waiting for a new "North East England"); in the mean time, Climb Online have a useful mini-pdf guide: [This is the current version, and the grades have been updated to account for the switch to Font bouldering grades. Should be more consistent (no more odd trad grades), but some are still suspect (The Overhanging Nose f6C feels overly generous/plain wrong). Feedback welcome - Mod, 18-Apr-2015]

Approach notes
About 5 mins walk from the Gilesgate turn-off on the A690, which itself is a few minutes from junction 62 of the A1. However I can't imagine anyone driving very far to get here... More usefully, the crag is about 40 mins walk from the town centre.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.


Out of print: North East England (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Didsf2 36
2The Undercutsf3+ 27
3Crucial Knee Jamf4+ 27
4Hard Labourf3+ 44
5Work Shyf4 40
6Independencef4 22
7Sidewinderf5+ 10
8Ferretf2+ 34
9Double Overhangsf5 28
10Bobbery Johnf2 33
11Fitchenf2 38
12The Ghost of Mr Angryf4 18
13Hob Holef2 30
14Tea-break Crackf2 20
15Thatcherismf6A+ 4
16You Nick'ed My Heart V5 6b 2
17Maggie The Whipf4+ 6
18Major f6A+ ?? 3
19Shorts Crackf4 26
20The Overhanging Nosef6C 22
21Dead Fit Birdf6A+ 7
22The Jazz Butcher Variationf6B 6
23Dids Two HS 4b 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kyaizawa

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Keiper is on the edge of a public footpath. I have seen no signs or attempts to restrict the climbing of this crag 30/09/04
Mark Atkinson - 30/Sep/04
apparantly kepier is out of bounds due to access problems. If they're resolved would you let me know?
James Knight - 17/Jun/03