Climbs 41
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces E

me on gates of eden daddyhole. © Kate Edhouse

Crag features


The main cliff has the appearance of imminent collapse but be assured it has been that way for decades. It is home to some fine routes on solid rock but also some daft ones which test optimism to the limit. In addition to single and multi-pitch climbs up soaring aretes and corners, a number of good deep water solos have been done on the seaward face.

Recommended routes (2015)

VS Gates of Eden, Triton (pitch 2), Tobacco Road

HVS Last Exit to Torquay

E1 Gargantua

E4 Zuma, Ready Brek

E6 Suicide Blonde, Blubberbeast (restored 2015)

DWS Pinnacle Traverse (and Continuation), Aqua Marina, Stingray, Troy Tempest.




Approach notes

Park at Daddyhole Plain free car park.

1. 15mins Walk left out of the car park (away from the crag) for 100m then branch right into a wooded headland. Near its point a fisherman's path doubles back and zig-zags down to the cove floor. Boulder hop across the beach to the crag.

2. 10mins Walk right out of the car park for 100m to a stone arch. Immediately before it, climb over the fence and descend a path into woodland. Continue to the base of the headland for the DWS or branch left towards the cliff edge, then head uphill for 15m to find the in-situ abseil point for the big corner of Triton.


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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
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Replaced it today.
Kafoozalem - 23/Jul/15
The Triton abseil station appears to have gone awol. I will replace it unless anyone has strong feelings. This has always enable a useful top down approach to the crag.
Kafoozalem - 22/Jul/15
Seagulls gone.
Motown - 05/Jul/13
Three baby seagles on large ledge containing first belay on Gargantua and below Gates of Eden crux. Not sure if they had fallen there or if it was a nest. Limits all routes that approach that section of the cliff at present.
Motown - 26/Jun/13
"Peg belay" after first pitch of Triton is now just one mangled rusty peg. Plenty of gear placements insted. Peg on 5b crux of Fandangle is very bendy and rusty. Worth backing up with small wires or risk a fall onto the not brilliant belay. Fortunately, as of December 2011, the tree belays have not been subject to the same cull as those on neighbouring crags.
Dave 88 - 08/Dec/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1CalibanHVS 4c  
2Good Dog
E1 5b *10
3School's Out for SummerE1 5b 1
4Pinnacle TraverseHVS 5a **37
5Pinnacle Traverse Continuation5c *2
6Tobacco Road
VS 4c *89
7Snake CharmerE3 5c *3
8RocketmanE4 5c 3
9Return to EarthE3 6a  
E4 6a **4
HVS 5a 3
12Ready BrekE4 6a *1
13Ready Brek DirectE4 6a *3
14Mr OrangeE5 6b  
E1 5b,5a *71
16Gates of EdenHVS 5a ***354
17Last Exit to Torquay
HVS 5b **143
18Suicide Blonde
E6 6b ***5
E4 6a **24
VS 5a *142
21BlubberbeastE6 6b * 
22Beast of EdenE4 6a  
23Porno for Pyro's
E6 6b  
VS 4c *6
25The BeadVS 4c *5
HVS 5b 10
27The Pearl
HS 4a *34
28Mukdahs Wall
E4 5c 1
30Sandpiperf6B 1
31Urielf6B 1
32Adamantine gatef6B 1
 Aqua Marina Wall (DWS) 
34Jam- Master6a+ *5
35Devolution6c 3
36Erinaceus7a+ 1
37Troy Tempest6c+ **24
38George Doors from the Upper Floors6b **2
39Dark Material6c+  
40Barn Doors6c+ *23
41Stingray7a **18
43Aqua Marina6a+ ***48

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