View larger mapGrid Ref SX 926626 (OS Landranger #202)

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These details were last updated on 14/Jul/2014

Daddyhole Main Cliff

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 40 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
Despite looking terrible and loose from above (and occasionaly below) the rock is generally sound and there are some classic routes on here. The cliffs vary from 80ft to 180ft, and many routes are normally 3 pitches long. The classic route of Daddyhole is Gates of Eden originally graded HS, the lower section has collapsed giving moves of 5a/5b (well protected). Other recommended routes are Tobacco Road (VS 4b) and Suicide Blonde (E6 6b). [Paul Lintott]

Access notes
From Daddyhole plain car park, follow a road down the hill alongside hotels until a muddy path breaks off Rwards. This path is followed until a narrow path breaks off heading tw the boulder beach of Daddyhole (visible from path). This contours the RH slope down to the boulder beach, which is crossed well above the high water mark.

Most routes can be accessed at all states of tide; the three routes which are covered can be reached via an easy sea level approach or wading.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.3mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
27 kph

0.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
22 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
18 °C
12 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
10 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
20 °C
10 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), Deep Water (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Pinnacle TraverseHVS 5a **34
2Good DogE1 5b *10
3Tobacco RoadVS 4c *79
4RocketmanE4 5c 3
5PantagruelE4 6a **4
6ReadymixHVS 5a 3
7GargantuaE1 5b,5a *55
8Gates of EdenHVS 5a ***278
9Last Exit to TorquayHVS 5b **112
10Suicide BlondeE6 6b ***5
11TritonVS 5a *130
12ZumaE4 6a **17
13NeptuneVS 4c *6
14The BeadVS 4c *5
15FandangleHVS 5b 10
16The PearlHS 4a *31
 Climb nameGradex
17Mukdahs WallE4 5c 1
18Snake CharmerE3 5c *3
19Plimsoll Line Traverse4a **152
20Brass Bound CrackHVS 5a 1
21Flip-flopsS 4c **5
 BOULDERING  
23SandpiperV4 1
24UrielV4 1
25Adamantine gateV4 1
 AQUA MARINA WALL (DWS)  
27Troy Tempest6c+ **20
28Barn Doors6c+ *21
29Stingray7a **16
30Aqua Marina6a+ ***43
31Jam- Master6a+ *4
32Devolution6c 1
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Seagulls gone.
Motown - 05/Jul/13

Three baby seagles on large ledge containing first belay on Gargantua and below Gates of Eden crux. Not sure if they had fallen there or if it was a nest. Limits all routes that approach that section of the cliff at present.
Motown - 26/Jun/13

"Peg belay" after first pitch of Triton is now just one mangled rusty peg. Plenty of gear placements insted. Peg on 5b crux of Fandangle is very bendy and rusty. Worth backing up with small wires or risk a fall onto the not brilliant belay. Fortunately, as of December 2011, the tree belays have not been subject to the same cull as those on neighbouring crags.
Dave 88 - 08/Dec/11