The main cliff has the appearance of imminent collapse but be assured it has been that way for decades. It is home to some fine routes on solid rock but also some daft ones which test optimism to the limit. In addition to single and multi-pitch climbs up soaring aretes and corners, a number of good deep water solos have been done on the seaward face.
Recommended routes (2015)
VS Gates of Eden, Triton (pitch 2), Tobacco Road
HVS Last Exit to Torquay
E4 Zuma, Ready Brek
E6 Suicide Blonde, Blubberbeast (restored 2015)
DWS Pinnacle Traverse (and Continuation), Aqua Marina, Stingray, Troy Tempest.
Park at Daddyhole Plain free car park.
1. 15mins Walk left out of the car park (away from the crag) for 100m then branch right into a wooded headland. Near its point a fisherman's path doubles back and zig-zags down to the cove floor. Boulder hop across the beach to the crag.
2. 10mins Walk right out of the car park for 100m to a stone arch. Immediately before it, climb over the fence and descend a path into woodland. Continue to the base of the headland for the DWS or branch left towards the cliff edge, then head uphill for 15m to find the in-situ abseil point for the big corner of Triton.
Most routes can be accessed at all states of tide; the three routes which are covered can be reached via an easy sea level approach or wading.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|2||Good Dog||E1 5b *||10|
|3||School's Out for Summer||E1 5b||1|
|4||Pinnacle Traverse||HVS 5a **||36|
|5||Pinnacle Traverse Continuation||5c *||1|
|6||Tobacco Road||VS 4c *||86|
|7||Snake Charmer||E3 5c *||3|
|9||Return to Earth||E3 6a|
|10||Pantagruel||E4 6a **||4|
|12||Ready Brek||E4 6a *||1|
|13||Mr Orange||E5 6b|
|14||Gargantua||E1 5b,5a *||69|
|15||Gates of Eden||HVS 5a ***||311|
|16||Last Exit to Torquay||HVS 5b **||135|
|17||Suicide Blonde||E6 6b ***||5|
|18||Zuma||E4 6a **||20|
|19||Triton||VS 5a *||137|
|20||Blubberbeast||E6 6b *|
|21||Beast of Eden||E4 6a|
|22||Porno for Pyro's||E6 6b|
|23||Neptune||VS 4c *||6|
|24||The Bead||VS 4c *||5|
|26||The Pearl||HS 4a *||34|
|27||Mukdahs Wall||E4 5c||1|
|AQUA MARINA WALL (DWS)|
|33||Jam- Master||6a+ *||4|
|36||Troy Tempest||6c+ **||24|
|37||George Doors from the Upper Floors||6b||1|
|39||Barn Doors||6c+ *||23|
|42||Aqua Marina||6a+ ***||48|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|Replaced it today.|
Kafoozalem - 23/Jul/15
|The Triton abseil station appears to have gone awol. I will replace it unless anyone has strong feelings. This has always enable a useful top down approach to the crag.|
Kafoozalem - 22/Jul/15
Motown - 05/Jul/13
|Three baby seagles on large ledge containing first belay on Gargantua and below Gates of Eden crux. Not sure if they had fallen there or if it was a nest. Limits all routes that approach that section of the cliff at present.|
Motown - 26/Jun/13
|"Peg belay" after first pitch of Triton is now just one mangled rusty peg. Plenty of gear placements insted.
Peg on 5b crux of Fandangle is very bendy and rusty. Worth backing up with small wires or risk a fall onto the not brilliant belay.
Fortunately, as of December 2011, the tree belays have not been subject to the same cull as those on neighbouring crags.|
Dave 88 - 08/Dec/11