Daddyhole Main Cliff

Climbs 40 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 8m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features

 

The main cliff has the appearance of imminent collapse but be assured it has been that way for decades. It is home to some fine routes on solid rock but also some daft ones which test optimism to the limit. In addition to single and multi-pitch climbs up soaring aretes and corners, a number of good deep water solos have been done on the seaward face.

Recommended routes (2015)

VS Gates of Eden, Triton (pitch 2), Tobacco Road

HVS Last Exit to Torquay

E1 Gargantua

E4 Zuma, Ready Brek

E6 Suicide Blonde, Blubberbeast (restored 2015)

DWS Pinnacle Traverse (and Continuation), Aqua Marina, Stingray, Troy Tempest.

 

 

 

Approach notes

Park at Daddyhole Plain free car park.

1. 15mins Walk left out of the car park (away from the crag) for 100m then branch right into a wooded headland. Near its point a fisherman's path doubles back and zig-zags down to the cove floor. Boulder hop across the beach to the crag.

2. 10mins Walk right out of the car park for 100m to a stone arch. Immediately before it, climb over the fence and descend a path into woodland. Continue to the base of the headland for the DWS or branch left towards the cliff edge, then head uphill for 15m to find the in-situ abseil point for the big corner of Triton.

 

Access notes

Most routes can be accessed at all states of tide; the three routes which are covered can be reached via an easy sea level approach or wading.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Deep Water (2007), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1CalibanHVS 4c  
2Good DogE1 5b *10
3School's Out for SummerE1 5b 1
4Pinnacle TraverseHVS 5a **36
5Pinnacle Traverse Continuation5c *1
6Tobacco RoadVS 4c *86
7Snake CharmerE3 5c *3
8RocketmanE4 5c 3
9Return to EarthE3 6a  
10PantagruelE4 6a **4
11ReadymixHVS 5a 3
12Ready BrekE4 6a *1
13Mr OrangeE5 6b  
14GargantuaE1 5b,5a *69
15Gates of EdenHVS 5a ***311
16Last Exit to TorquayHVS 5b **135
17Suicide BlondeE6 6b ***5
18ZumaE4 6a **20
19TritonVS 5a *137
20BlubberbeastE6 6b * 
21Beast of EdenE4 6a  
22Porno for Pyro'sE6 6b  
23NeptuneVS 4c *6
24The BeadVS 4c *5
25FandangleHVS 5b 10
26The PearlHS 4a *34
27Mukdahs WallE4 5c 1
 BOULDERING  
29SandpiperV4 1
30UrielV4 1
31Adamantine gateV4 1
 AQUA MARINA WALL (DWS)  
33Jam- Master6a+ *4
34Devolution6c 3
35Erinaceus7a+ 1
36Troy Tempest6c+ **24
37George Doors from the Upper Floors6b 1
38Dark Material6c+  
39Barn Doors6c+ *23
40Stingray7a **18
41Sirens6b+  
42Aqua Marina6a+ ***48
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Replaced it today.
Kafoozalem - 23/Jul/15
The Triton abseil station appears to have gone awol. I will replace it unless anyone has strong feelings. This has always enable a useful top down approach to the crag.
Kafoozalem - 22/Jul/15
Seagulls gone.
Motown - 05/Jul/13
Three baby seagles on large ledge containing first belay on Gargantua and below Gates of Eden crux. Not sure if they had fallen there or if it was a nest. Limits all routes that approach that section of the cliff at present.
Motown - 26/Jun/13
"Peg belay" after first pitch of Triton is now just one mangled rusty peg. Plenty of gear placements insted. Peg on 5b crux of Fandangle is very bendy and rusty. Worth backing up with small wires or risk a fall onto the not brilliant belay. Fortunately, as of December 2011, the tree belays have not been subject to the same cull as those on neighbouring crags.
Dave 88 - 08/Dec/11