Daddyhole Main Cliff Devon, ENGLAND
Climbs 40 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces E
Despite looking terrible and loose from above (and occasionaly below) the rock is generally sound and there are some classic routes on here. The cliffs vary from 80ft to 180ft, and many routes are normally 3 pitches long. The classic route of Daddyhole is Gates of Eden originally graded HS, the lower section has collapsed giving moves of 5a/5b (well protected). Other recommended routes are Tobacco Road (VS 4b) and Suicide Blonde (E6 6b). [Paul Lintott]
From Daddyhole plain car park, follow a road down the hill alongside hotels until a muddy path breaks off Rwards. This path is followed until a narrow path breaks off heading tw the boulder beach of Daddyhole (visible from path). This contours the RH slope down to the boulder beach, which is crossed well above the high water mark.
Most routes can be accessed at all states of tide; the three routes which are covered can be reached via an easy sea level approach or wading.
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South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Deep Water (2007), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)
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Motown - 05/Jul/13
Three baby seagles on large ledge containing first belay on Gargantua and below Gates of Eden crux. Not sure if they had fallen there or if it was a nest. Limits all routes that approach that section of the cliff at present.
Motown - 26/Jun/13
"Peg belay" after first pitch of Triton is now just one mangled rusty peg. Plenty of gear placements insted.
Peg on 5b crux of Fandangle is very bendy and rusty. Worth backing up with small wires or risk a fall onto the not brilliant belay.
Fortunately, as of December 2011, the tree belays have not been subject to the same cull as those on neighbouring crags.
Dave 88 - 08/Dec/11