Daddyhole Main Cliff

Climbs 40 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 13m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Despite looking terrible and loose from above (and occasionaly below) the rock is generally sound and there are some classic routes on here. The cliffs vary from 80ft to 180ft, and many routes are normally 3 pitches long. The classic route of Daddyhole is Gates of Eden originally graded HS, the lower section has collapsed giving moves of 5a/5b (well protected). Other recommended routes are Tobacco Road (VS 4b) and Suicide Blonde (E6 6b). [Paul Lintott]

Access notes
From Daddyhole plain car park, follow a road down the hill alongside hotels until a muddy path breaks off Rwards. This path is followed until a narrow path breaks off heading tw the boulder beach of Daddyhole (visible from path). This contours the RH slope down to the boulder beach, which is crossed well above the high water mark.

Most routes can be accessed at all states of tide; the three routes which are covered can be reached via an easy sea level approach or wading.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), Deep Water (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Pinnacle TraverseHVS 5a **36
2Good DogE1 5b *10
3Tobacco RoadVS 4c *86
4RocketmanE4 5c 3
5PantagruelE4 6a **4
6ReadymixHVS 5a 3
7GargantuaE1 5b,5a *68
8Gates of EdenHVS 5a ***308
9Last Exit to TorquayHVS 5b **135
10Suicide BlondeE6 6b ***5
11TritonVS 5a *137
12ZumaE4 6a **20
13NeptuneVS 4c *6
14The BeadVS 4c *5
15FandangleHVS 5b 10
16The PearlHS 4a *34
17Mukdahs WallE4 5c 1
18Snake CharmerE3 5c *3
19Plimsoll Line Traverse4a **165
20Brass Bound CrackHVS 5a  
21Flip-flopsS 4c **5
23SandpiperV4 1
24UrielV4 1
25Adamantine gateV4 1
27Troy Tempest6c+ **24
28Barn Doors6c+ *23
29Stingray7a **18
30Aqua Marina6a+ ***48
31Jam- Master6a+ *4
32Devolution6c 3
33Erinaceus *7a+ 1
34George Doors from the Upper Floors *6b 1
35School's Out for Summer *E1 5b 1
36Blubberbeast *E6 6b * 
37Beast of Eden *E4 6a  
38Ready Brek *E4 6a 1
39Pinnacle Traverse Continuation *5c *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Cheese Monkey

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Replaced it today.
Kafoozalem - 23/Jul/15
The Triton abseil station appears to have gone awol. I will replace it unless anyone has strong feelings. This has always enable a useful top down approach to the crag.
Kafoozalem - 22/Jul/15
Seagulls gone.
Motown - 05/Jul/13
Three baby seagles on large ledge containing first belay on Gargantua and below Gates of Eden crux. Not sure if they had fallen there or if it was a nest. Limits all routes that approach that section of the cliff at present.
Motown - 26/Jun/13
"Peg belay" after first pitch of Triton is now just one mangled rusty peg. Plenty of gear placements insted. Peg on 5b crux of Fandangle is very bendy and rusty. Worth backing up with small wires or risk a fall onto the not brilliant belay. Fortunately, as of December 2011, the tree belays have not been subject to the same cull as those on neighbouring crags.
Dave 88 - 08/Dec/11