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These details were last updated on 13/Nov/2008

Daddyhole Main Cliff

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 40 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
Despite looking terrible and loose from above (and occasionaly below) the rock is generally sound and there are some classic routes on here. The cliffs vary from 80ft to 180ft, and many routes are normally 3 pitches long. The classic route of Daddyhole is Gates of Eden originally graded HS, the lower section has collapsed giving moves of 5a/5b (well protected). Other recommended routes are Tobacco Road (VS 4b) and Suicide Blonde (E6 6b). [Paul Lintott]

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.0mm rain
Sun
11 °C
24 kph

0.0mm rain
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12 °C
21 kph

0.0mm rain
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10 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
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10 °C
19 kph

8.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
9 °C
33 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Pinnacle TraverseHVS 5a **32
2Barn Doors6c+ *16
3Jam- Master6a+ *3
4Good DogE1 5b *9
5Tobacco RoadVS 4c *77
6RocketmanE4 5c 3
7Aqua Marina6a+ ***36
8Stingray7a **13
9Troy Tempest6c+ **16
10PantagruelE4 6a **4
11ReadymixHVS 5a 3
12GargantuaE1 5b,5a *52
13Gates of EdenHVS 5a ***266
14Last Exit to TorquayHVS 5b **104
15Suicide BlondeE6 6b ***4
 Climb nameGradex
16TritonVS 5a *126
17ZumaE4 6a **17
18NeptuneVS 4c *5
19The BeadVS 4c *5
20FandangleHVS 5b 10
21The PearlHS 4a *31
22Mukdahs WallE4 5c 1
23Snake CharmerE3 5c *3
24Plimsoll Line Traverse4 **134
25Brass Bound CrackHVS 5a 1
26Devolution6c 1
27Flip-flopsS 4c **4
28Sandpiper *V4 1
29Uriel *V4 1
30Adamantine gate *V4 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
From Daddyhole plain car park, follow a road down the hill alongside hotels until a muddy path breaks off Rwards. This path is followed until a narrow path breaks off heading tw the boulder beach of Daddyhole (visible from path). This contours the RH slope down to the boulder beach, which is crossed well above the high water mark.

Most routes can be accessed at all states of tide; the three routes which are covered can be reached via an easy sea level approach or wading.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ben1983

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Seagulls gone.
Motown - 05/Jul/13

Three baby seagles on large ledge containing first belay on Gargantua and below Gates of Eden crux. Not sure if they had fallen there or if it was a nest. Limits all routes that approach that section of the cliff at present.
Motown - 26/Jun/13

"Peg belay" after first pitch of Triton is now just one mangled rusty peg. Plenty of gear placements insted. Peg on 5b crux of Fandangle is very bendy and rusty. Worth backing up with small wires or risk a fall onto the not brilliant belay. Fortunately, as of December 2011, the tree belays have not been subject to the same cull as those on neighbouring crags.
Dave 88 - 08/Dec/11