Climbs 40
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces S

will ringwood on cogden crack- mild severe,at applegarth scar. © helvellyn

Crag features

Friable on the whole, many trees for top roping, possible danger with detached blocks high up, catches all available sunlight, very quiet. About 30 to 40ft high. [Chris Reid]

Most of the trees are dead and rotten; if you like everything to move as you climb you won't be disappointed with this place. Think about it: south facing, catches all available sunlight, and 5 mins from the road - It is very quiet for a reason. Go elsewhere!! [Anth Quinn 4/02]

Maybe we were lucky with our route choices, but apart from the top-outs and rotten trees, thought it an excellent little crag. Bonsai (MVS) was a particularly fine route, though of course gets no stars.

Approach notes

No problems but take care not to block gates when parking.

>From Richmond a road runs parallel to the N of the A6108. Follow for 3.7mi to a footpath on the L as you enter a small valley. The path runs to the L; 5 mins walk.

Alternatively, take the same road from the other end, at Marske. Just less than a mile from the village, park on the verge on a hill, just below and opposite a gated gravel track signposted West Applegath. Follow the track, at the first gate turn left through a new gate and walk up and right to the crag. About 5 minutes.

the climbing in this part is fairly lose but well laid into the cliff. producing edges that are ideal for a good quick scramble and top roping on the two or three larger faces. the larger faces range from 30ft to 35ft. if you have friends or beginners with you this is not ideal as there is alot of ground movement and can be quite off putting.but even with the damp weather the slope catches the sun well and the quality of grip is good. there are a few lose and rotten tree's which arn't ideal to anchor too but there are many crack's for those good strong cramming devices that you should have with you. the scenery is beutifull and makes a damp day look spectacular. mod owns the land over the main road in the valley ,from the rock face ,and any camping or walking must try and seek proper permission. ok i hope this will help any one thinking about applegarth for a day as i couldn't find any comments before a went out.cheers ,Myles (york)
Myles Wymark - 02/Nov/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Abbey Wall
VD *7
2Cogden Crack
MS 3c *11
3Chalk Crack
VS 4b **8
4Cembran Chimney
D 3
VD 5
6OxnopHVS 5a **2
MVS 4b 6
8GunnersideS 4a 2
9CrackpotE1 5b 1
10Applegarth Chimney
D 2
11Cave Crack
S 4a **5
12Park Top
S 4a *2

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