Schüsselkarspitze Wetterstein, AUSTRIA
Climbs 11 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 2537m a.s.l – Faces all
The south face of the Schüsselkarspitze is the most important face on the south side of the Wetterstein massif and one of the most important faces for rock climbers in all of Austria. 800m wide and up to 400m high it is home to over fourty rock climbs, predominantly in the grades from VI upwards. Amongst the classic routes are the Direct South Face or Rainer/Aschenbrenner (VII), the South East Face or Peters/Harringer (VI+), Bayerischer Traum (VIII-) and Locker vom Hocker (VIII), the best known of the harder routes, first ascended in 1981 by Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich. Hermann Buhl devoted a chapter of Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage to the Schüsselkarspitze. It is also the home crag of Heinz Zak, who has established a number of hard new routes here.
Hut base is either the Wangalm or the Wetterstein Hütte (both private, no alpine club discount), just a few minutes from one another and one hour's walk from the valley. The walk-in from here lasts another one and half hours. Park in the Leutasch Valley after the road toll.
Best of Genuss Band 2 (2009), Bayerische Alpen Nordtirol (2004), Alpine Sportkletterrouten VI - VIII (1996), Wetterstein Sud
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