*** Best Winter Crag in S.Wales. Park on Road not at Farm climbing permitted only between 1st Dec and 28th Feb.
Sporting grades III to V+. All major icefalls have been climbed. This extensive cliff has a steady seepage of water over most of its length, which, when frozen provides some of the best sustained water ice climbing in South Wales. The cliff can be found some four miles north of Llanfihengel Crucorney on the east bank of the Vale of Ewyas.
To reach the cliff follow the B4423 north from Llanfihengel Crucorney following signs for Llanthony Priory, or south from Hay on Wye over the Gospel Pass. Limited parking is available on the B4423 near the entrance track leading to the Daren Farm ( G R 289243). From here follow the track for 500m until behind the Daren Farm, head north for 200m to reach a fence, follow this east over difficult boulder strewn ground to reach the base of the cliff. King Koflack and the Coconuts follows the first prominent ice filled groove system from the left hand edge of the cliff.
It is important to observe the access restriction on this cliff detailed below.
The cliff is a site of Special Scientific Interest because of rare plants and wildlife. The land owner has granted permission o climber between 1st December and 28th February, providing the cliff is in good winter climbing condition. Climbing is not permitted at any other time. This arrangement is for a trial period only during the 1996/7 season. It is essential to comply with this restriction in order to secure future access.
South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki
|FIRST PROMINENT ICE FILLED GROOVE SYSTEM FROM THE LEFT HAND EDGE|
|2||King Koflach and the Coconuts||IV||1|
|4||Kolfack the Cat||IV|
|5||Son of Koflack||III||3|
|6||Jaws and the Terradactyls||IV|
|7||Dancing in the Rain||IV|
|8||Hollow Head be Thy Name||IV|
|10||The Great White||IV|
|THE BASE OF THE CLIFF NOW RISES WHERE A LARGE MOUND ABUTS|
|13||Feline in the Treeline||IV|
|14||The Promised Land||III|
|THE LEFT HAND CORNER OF THE WALL IS TAKEN BY KANGAROO CORNER|
|17||Tools you can Trust||III|
|THE FOLLOWING ROUTES ASCEND THE IMPRESSIVE ICEFALL ON THE RIGHT|
|21||The Ice Queen||IV|
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