Cwmyoy (The Darren)

Climbs 20 – Rocktype Ice – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
*** Best Winter Crag in S.Wales. Park on Road not at Farm climbing permitted only between 1st Dec and 28th Feb.

Sporting grades III to V+. All major icefalls have been climbed. This extensive cliff has a steady seepage of water over most of its length, which, when frozen provides some of the best sustained water ice climbing in South Wales. The cliff can be found some four miles north of Llanfihengel Crucorney on the east bank of the Vale of Ewyas.

To reach the cliff follow the B4423 north from Llanfihengel Crucorney following signs for Llanthony Priory, or south from Hay on Wye over the Gospel Pass. Limited parking is available on the B4423 near the entrance track leading to the Daren Farm ( G R 289243). From here follow the track for 500m until behind the Daren Farm, head north for 200m to reach a fence, follow this east over difficult boulder strewn ground to reach the base of the cliff. King Koflack and the Coconuts follows the first prominent ice filled groove system from the left hand edge of the cliff.

It is important to observe the access restriction on this cliff detailed below.

Access notes
The cliff is a site of Special Scientific Interest because of rare plants and wildlife. The land owner has granted permission o climber between 1st December and 28th February, providing the cliff is in good winter climbing condition. Climbing is not permitted at any other time. This arrangement is for a trial period only during the 1996/7 season. It is essential to comply with this restriction in order to secure future access.

Guidebooks
South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 FIRST PROMINENT ICE FILLED GROOVE SYSTEM FROM THE LEFT HAND EDGE  
2King Koflach and the CoconutsIV 1
3Lewie LewieIV  
4Kolfack the CatIV  
5Son of KoflackIII 3
6Jaws and the TerradactylsIV  
7Dancing in the RainIV  
8Hollow Head be Thy NameIV  
9Garfields GrooveIV  
10The Great WhiteIV  
 THE BASE OF THE CLIFF NOW RISES WHERE A LARGE MOUND ABUTS  
12Sebastian DangerfieldIV  
13Feline in the TreelineIV  
14The Promised LandIII  
 THE LEFT HAND CORNER OF THE WALL IS TAKEN BY KANGAROO CORNER  
16Kangeroo CornerIII  
17Tools you can TrustIII  
18Fatal AttractionIII  
 THE FOLLOWING ROUTES ASCEND THE IMPRESSIVE ICEFALL ON THE RIGHT  
20Dupuytrens ContractureIV  
21The Ice QueenIV  
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These details were last updated on 01/Aug/2011

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