Climbs 81
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces W

Mr Fox doing his first trad of the year on Medusa © jamesgodwin64

Crag features

An excellent venue for low/middle grade traditional climbing with multi-pitch routes up to 46m long on the main buttress. Good quality rock with great exposure and fine views. Never too busy, but classic routes e.g. Gymnic (VS 4c) and Medusa (VS 4b,4b) are polished. Other great outings include Delusor (VS 4c), Via Vita (E1 5b) and Conclusor (HVS 4c, 5a). Few hard routes, but Wilt (E5 6b) is well-named, well-protected and tricky to flash.

************* IMPORTANT ACCESS NOTE ***************

Nesting birds often mean temporary bans on parts of the crag early in the year and occasionally at other times. Please look out for restriction notices.

Further information on the BMC Regional Access using the link at the bottom of the page.

*********************************************************

Approach notes

Situated in Cressbrook Dale. Limited parking is available below the crag close to Ravensdale Cottages (SK 173737). Respect privacy please. A concessionary footpath leads up to the main buttress.

Often bird-banned early in the year and occasionally at other times too. Look for the warning notices.

Access Advice

The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Beachcomber 
2Raven Crack
-
VD 4
3Canopy Crack
-
D 4
4Unpleasant
-
S 1
5True Lime
-
HS 4b 3
6Bifurous ChimneyVD 11
7Pedestal BranchVD 9
8Bifurous Corner
-
VS 4c 5
9I Want CookieE2 5c 1
10The Bigot
-
HVS 5b  
11The Bigot Direct StartE3 6a *2
12Forgotten Groove
-
VS 4c 3
13So-So
-
S 4a 10
14Ivy Corner
-
S 9
15Tower Climb
-
VD 9
16BeachcomberHVS 5a *65
17Tower Crack
-
HS 4b 2
18Bosky
-
S 5
19Gruesome GrooveVS 4c 15
20ScorpionE2 5c *10
 Flying Buttress 
22The GymnicHVS 5a *120
23Freedom SlavesE4 6c  
24Cold ShoulderE1 5b 6
25AmainHVS 5a **52
26Russian RouletteHVS 5b 7
27Looking at BlueHVS 5b 2
28ImpendantVS 4c **105
29Shattered CrackVD 48
30AmnesiacsE1 5b 1
31Cave CornerS 4a 80
32Ash CrackVS 4c **164
33HydrolysisE1 5b *19
34TriaHS 4b **107
 Malpossessed 
36Cut Loose or FlyE3 5c *18
37WiltE5 6b **1
38Pagan ManE5 6b * 
39The Wilt AlternativeE5 6c * 
40MalpossessedHVS 5b *10
41SneckHVS 5b 2
42Tank
-
E1 5b 1
43The WickVS 4b 17
44Ice Cream Pheonix
-
HVS 5a 1
45Exfoliation
-
VS 4c  
46Troops of TomorrowE1 5c  
47RockbiterHVS 5a *33
48Plaque CrackS 4a 3
49GorrahVS 5a 1
50Begorrah
-
VS 4c  
51Sagittarius
-
VS 4c  
52Cracked Edge
-
HS 4b  
53Round the Bend
-
E2 5c 4
54Hi-Fi
-
VS 4c 3
55Boulder Problem
-
VS 4c 1
56Metronome
-
VS 4c  
57Postern Crack
-
VS 4c  
58Yew Cap
-
VS 4c  
59End Of The TourE3 5c  
60Y Chimney
-
VS 4c  
 Raven's Buttress 
62Myopia
-
HVS 4
63SolitaireHS 4b 39
64ConclusorHVS 5a ***277
65DelusorHVS 5a *73
66Hades
-
E2 1
67MedusaVS 4b ***372
68Via VitaE1 5c *104
69Via Vita DirectE2 6a **15
70Mealy BugsVS 4c **147
71MealystophelesVS 5a *84
72BulletsHVS 5b *5
73MephistophelesE1 5b **118
74Purple HazeE1 5b **125
75PloyVS 4c *125
76FroreVS 5a *40
77Vintage Two
-
E2 5b 7
78Enigma
-
HVS 5a 7
79Paupericles
-
S 7
 Girdle Traverses 
81Girdle TraverseVS 4c  
82Critical TownHVS 5a  
 Unknown 

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