Climbs 81
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces W

Mr Fox doing his first trad of the year on Medusa © jamesgodwin64

Crag features

An excellent venue for low/middle grade traditional climbing with multi-pitch routes up to 46m long on the main buttress. Good quality rock with great exposure and fine views. Never too busy, but classic routes e.g. Gymnic (VS 4c) and Medusa (VS 4b,4b) are polished. Other great outings include Delusor (VS 4c), Via Vita (E1 5b) and Conclusor (HVS 4c, 5a). Few hard routes, but Wilt (E5 6b) is well-named, well-protected and tricky to flash.

************* IMPORTANT ACCESS NOTE ***************

Nesting birds often mean temporary bans on parts of the crag early in the year and occasionally at other times. Please look out for restriction notices.

Further information on the BMC Regional Access using the link at the bottom of the page.

*********************************************************

Approach notes

Situated in Cressbrook Dale. Limited parking is available below the crag close to Ravensdale Cottages (SK 173737). Respect privacy please. A concessionary footpath leads up to the main buttress.

Often bird-banned early in the year and occasionally at other times too. Look for the warning notices.

Access Advice

The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Beachcomber 
2Raven Crack
-
VD 4
3Canopy Crack
-
D 4
4Unpleasant
-
S 1
5True Lime
-
HS 4b 3
6Bifurous ChimneyVD 11
7Pedestal BranchVD 9
8Bifurous Corner
-
VS 4c 5
9I Want CookieE2 5c 1
10The Bigot
-
HVS 5b  
11The Bigot Direct StartE3 6a *2
12Forgotten Groove
-
VS 4c 3
13So-So
-
S 4a 10
14Ivy Corner
-
S 9
15Tower Climb
-
VD 9
16BeachcomberHVS 5a *64
17Tower Crack
-
HS 4b 2
18Bosky
-
S 5
19Gruesome GrooveVS 4c 15
20ScorpionE2 5c *10
 Flying Buttress 
22The GymnicHVS 5a *116
23Freedom SlavesE4 6c  
24Cold ShoulderE1 5b 6
25AmainHVS 5a **47
26Russian RouletteHVS 5b 7
27Looking at BlueHVS 5b 2
28ImpendantVS 4c **105
29Shattered CrackVD 44
30AmnesiacsE1 5b  
31Cave CornerS 4a 77
32Ash CrackVS 4c **155
33HydrolysisE1 5b *17
34TriaHS 4b **99
 Malpossessed 
36Cut Loose or FlyE3 5c *17
37WiltE5 6b **1
38Pagan ManE5 6b * 
39The Wilt AlternativeE5 6c * 
40MalpossessedHVS 5b *10
41SneckHVS 5b 2
42The WickVS 4b 17
43Ice Cream Pheonix
-
HVS 5a 1
44Exfoliation
-
VS 4c  
45RockbiterHVS 5a *33
46Plaque CrackS 4a 3
47GorrahVS 5a 1
48Begorrah
-
VS 4c  
49Sagittarius
-
VS 4c  
50Cracked Edge
-
HS 4b  
51Round the Bend
-
E2 5c 4
52Hi-Fi
-
VS 4c 3
53Boulder Problem
-
VS 4c 1
54Metronome
-
VS 4c  
55Postern Crack
-
VS 4c  
56Yew Cap
-
VS 4c  
57End Of The TourE3 5c  
58Y Chimney
-
VS 4c  
 Raven's Buttress 
60Myopia
-
HVS 4
61SolitaireHS 4b 37
62ConclusorHVS 5a ***262
63DelusorHVS 5a *67
64Hades
-
E2 1
65MedusaVS 4b ***359
66Via VitaE1 5c *96
67Via Vita DirectE2 6a **13
68Mealy BugsVS 4c **141
69MealystophelesVS 5a *79
70BulletsHVS 5b *5
71MephistophelesE1 5b **110
72Purple HazeE1 5b **121
73PloyVS 4c *117
74FroreVS 5a *36
75Vintage Two
-
E2 5b 7
76Enigma
-
HVS 5a 7
77Paupericles
-
S 7
 Girdle Traverses 
79Girdle TraverseVS 4c  
80Critical TownHVS 5a  
 Unknown 
82Tank
-
E1 5b 1
83Troops of Tomorrow
-
E1 5c  

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