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View larger mapGrid Ref SK 174736 (OS Landranger #119)

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These details were last updated on 19/Dec/2013


Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 67 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
An excellent venue for low/middle grade traditional climbing with multi-pitch routes up to 46m long on the main buttress. Good quality rock with great exposure and fine views. Never too busy, but classic routes e.g. Gymnic (VS 4c) and Medusa (VS 4b,4b) are polished. Other great outings include Delusor (VS 4c), Via Vita (HVS 5a, 5a) and Conclusor (HVS 4c, 5a). Few hard routes, but Wilt (E5 6b) is well-named, well-protected and tricky to flash.

************* IMPORTANT ACCESS NOTE ***************

Spring 2013: Natural England have banned access to the crag as ravens are nesting on Via Vita.

27th May 2013: The ban has been lifted so full access has been restored.

Further information on the BMC Regional Access using the link at the bottom of the page.

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
8 °C
18 kph

2.2mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
33 kph

0.7mm rain
11 °C
22 kph

1.4mm rain
Sunny periods
13 °C
13 kph

3.7mm rain
11 °C
15 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire DalesMet Office: Peak District

Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1So soS *2
2BeachcomberHVS 5a *55
3Gruesome GrooveHS 4b 12
4ScorpionE2 5c *10
5The GymnicHVS 5a *94
6Freedom SlavesE6 6c  
7Cold ShoulderE1 5b 4
8AmainHVS 5a *42
9Russian RouletteHVS 5b 5
10Looking at BlueHVS 5b 2
11ImpendantVS 4c *74
12Shattered CrackVD 37
13Cave CornerS 4a 66
14Ash CrackVS 4b **127
15HydrolysisE1 5b 10
16TriaVS 4b *79
17Cut Loose or FlyE3 5c *15
18WiltE5 6b **1
19Pagan ManE5 6b * 
20The Wilt AlternativeE5 6c * 
21MalpossessedHVS 5b 7
22ConclusorHVS 5a **176
23DelusorVS 4c *43
25MedusaVS 4b **266
26Via VitaE1 5c **74
27Via Vita DirectE2 5c 9
28Mealy BugsVS 4c *95
29MealystopholesVS 5a *45
30BulletsHVS 3
31MephistophelesHVS 5b **83
32Purple HazeHVS 5b **86
33PloyVS 4c *96
34FroreVS 5a 29
 Climb nameGradex
35Plaque CrackS 4a 3
36RockbiterHVS 5a **26
37PaupericlesS 5
38Ivy CornerS 8
39Pedestal BranchVD 8
40Bifurous ChimneyVD 9
41Raven CrackVD 4
42Canopy CrackD 4
43UnpleasantS 1
44True LimeHS 4b 3
45Bifurous CornerVS 4c 4
46The BigotHVS 5b  
47The Bigot Direct StartE3 6a 2
48Forgotten GrooveVS 4c 2
49So-SoS 4a 6
50Tower ClimbVD 9
51Tower CrackHS 4b 2
52BoskyS 5
53The WickMVS 4b *14
54Ice Cream PheonixHVS 5a 1
55Round the BendE2 5c 3
56SolitaireHS 4b 30
57ImpendentVS 4c **11
58EnigmaHVS 5a 4
59SneckHVS 5b 2
60Hi-FiVS 4c 2
61MyopiaHVS 2
62MealystophelesVS 5a **11
63I Want CookieE2 5c 1
64Vintage TwoE2 5b 7
65Troops of TomorrowE1 5c  
66TankE1 5b 1
67Delusor Direct StartHVS 5a *6
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Access notes
Situated in Cressbrook Dale. Limited parking is available below the crag close to Ravensdale Cottages (SK 173737). Respect privacy please. A concessionary footpath leads up to the main buttress.

May be bird-banned early in the year. Look for the warning notices.

The restrictions are not necessarily mited to early in the year, eg Medusa is currently (25th July) off limits due to fledgeling kestrels.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer The Reaper

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Currently birds nesting in the crack at the start of Purple Haze P2 and (i think) near the belay of Rockbiter. Probably best avoided for the moment.
remus - 16/May/11