Spellack

Climbs 63 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 423m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Spellack is renowned for quality, mid-high grade routes on the steep Main Face but there are also good easier routes, in particular the classic Severe, White Walls. Mainly single pitch (18-65m).

Access notes
Allow 30 minutes walk-in along Trassey Track to reach Forest View buttress (something of a misnomer as much of the forest has now been cleared), and a little longer to approach the upper tier and White Walls.

Guidebooks
Rock Climbs in the Mourne Mountains (2010), A Rock Climbing Guide to the Mournes (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT-HAND BUTTRESSES  
2ShadowVD 12
3Half BakedE1 5c 4
4LeewardVS 4c *13
5ArielHVS 5a *8
6Fear and TremblingE4 6a  
7Cabin CruiseE1 5b **9
8ScarfaceE1 5b *1
9Le Longue CarabineE1 5b 1
10MatainVS 4c 2
11Matain Right-Hand FinishHVS 5a 1
12Blue VelvetE2 6a  
13SchizoidS 4a 2
14Cabin FeverIII  
15Smokin' the TweedE1 5b  
16Rock Over and Roll UpVS 5a 2
17MarascoVS 4c 1
 THE GULLY  
19ThrutchD 1
20BugsyHVS 5b  
21SurpriseHVS 4c *1
22Bouldering BigglesHVS 5a  
23Lightning VisitVS 4c *6
24The Golden KeyE3 6a  
25Spellack ChimneyVD **21
26Throwing ShapesE2 6a *1
27White WallsS 4a ***54
28Race the DarknessHVS 5a *5
29Secret RaptureE2 5c ** 
 MAIN FACE LOWER TIER  
31Mad DogsE5 6a ***2
32Ultra ViresE3 6a **2
33UsurperE1 5b *3
 MAIN FACE UPPER TIER  
35Blowin' in the WindHVS 5a ***12
36Walking BackwardsE3 6a * 
37Cool for CatsE2 5c * 
38Too Cool for CatsE2 5c **2
39Mirror MirrorE4 6a ***2
40WarhorseE4 6a ***5
41The Diplomacy MuleE7 6b 1
42PegasusE5 6b *** 
43RenegadeE1 5c * 
44CherubE1 5c *7
45CumulonimbusE1 5a **14
46Jagged EdgeE2 5b 1
47Seven UpHS 4b 3
48Sugar MountainE2 5c  
49Gates of DawnE2 5c *1
50The Flying VicarE2 5b * 
51Z EdgeVS 4c 4
52Z Edge VariationE1 5b *1
 FOREST VIEW BUTTRESS  
54Double BerthS 4a 48
55Broken ArrowHVS 5a *18
56Single BerthS 4a 75
57Spanish BurgundyHS 4b 24
58Ron BurgundyHS 4b 25
59Groove ArmadaHVS 5a 21
60Final FUS 4a 35
61WonderchildE1 5c 9
62WhitHS 4b 30
63KrecikE6 6c **1
64AfterlifeE2 6a *1
65AfterbirthHVS 5a *24
66Budda BabyE2 5c  
67Moto Psycho NightmareHVS 5a *36
68The Heeling ProcessE3 5c **1
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