Forest Rock

Climbs 51 – Rocktype Slate – Altitude 113m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

Old slate quarry. Best routes: "Sorcerer" E1 5b***, "Sorceress"E6 6b*** ( Old aid route, some bolts). [Al Smith] Definitely Not E2 5b * and Saucy E3 5c ** also good. Sorceress apparently de-bolted.

Approach notes

Forest Rock is in the centre of Woodhouse Eaves by "The Forest Rock", Public House.. which is now converted to something else [06/06]. Park in old car park just past the war memorial. Forest Rock is Public Open Space, you have a perfect right to climb here so please ignore the "No Rock-Climbing" signs. However, please be sensitive to the locals, no bad language, noise etc.

Guidebooks

Out of print: Leicestershire Climbs (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
27Sorcerer's ApprenticeE4 6b 2
28Enchantress (route 11)f7C+ ***8
29SorceressE6 6b ***4
30SorceressV7 26
31Sorceress (stand start)V5 3
32Lucid intervalf8A  
33Dark Magic (13)V8 1
34Problem 15V3 1
35Antiherof7B+ *7
36Squishy squashyV10 **2
37Cracked upV8+ ***12
38Missing inkf7C+  
39In Search Of TylerV12 ***1
40Black Artf7C+ **2
41Apartheidf8A ***1
42In Search Of Blamef8A 1
43Notes to selff8A+  
44Own narrativef7B+ **3
45Necromancerf8A ***1
46WitchcraftV10 ***3
47Problem 16V7  
48NeurosisE5 6a **2
49NeurosisV4 1
50Top SliceA2 1
51Top Slice7c+  
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Topo here: http://imgur.com/a/bm0Rj
ERU - 25/Nov/13
I visited the crag a couple of times recently. It's in great condition, and there's a nice grassy landing for the majority of routes outside the cave. The bolts remain intact for the E5 and E6 that come out the cave, but the hangers have been removed!
JackMetcalfe - 06/Aug/10
Visited the other day, some guy was boasting of chopping bolts. all the same, great small crag on a sunny day if your local.
Gazleah - 03/Mar/09
Cool little crag in an unusual village setting. Despite looking green all the main routes are in fine condition in dry weather and the good sharp little holds are all clean. An evening leading the mid-grade routes (all good - Sorceror is notably substantial for a small crag) followed by refreshments in the pleasant Pear Tree Inn should put a smile on one's face.
Fiend - 22/Jun/06