17 – Rocktype
Granite – Altitude
? – Faces
Vegetated slabs up to 30m in length and smaller, steeper buttresses above a flooded pit. Watch very large carp cruise through the jade green water on a sunny day. Some question over the grading of later climbs ('90 to '92). Best route: "The Weatherman"VS4c, 30m.** [Al Smith]
Located just outside Sapcote village. Sapcote is situated midway between Hinkley and Leicester, alongside the M69.From J2, M69 take B4069 to Sapcote. From south take J1, M69 onto A5, turn left onto B4114 through Sharnford. Then left onto B4069 for Sapcote.
Take the Leicester rd. through the village. Towards the outskirts there is a track leading left between houses. This becomes a Bridleway (passes some garages ). Follow the Bridleway until you see the tree-ringed quarry on the left.
Out of print: Leicestershire Climbs (1993)
Climbs at this crag
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|Went today intending to do a bit of TR soloing. At the front of the quarry are some rather neglected looking horses and about four different signs saying DANGER, KEEP OUT, PRIVATE, etc. The quarry itself is ringed with a 7 foot spiked metal fence, and the front of the quarry is in full view of some of the houses in the village. Some fat black pigs live inside this perimeter fence (around the quarry itself). If you follow the bridlepath round to the left of the quarry, it meets a farm field, and walking along the edge of the farm field along the perimeter fence is a point where a concrete fencepost is next to (on the inside) the metal fence, making it possible to climb up and over the fence fairly easily. There are some trails (just beaten down nettles really) inside, but I think it's probably local skinny-dippers rather than climbers. I had a look around and there seems to be a bit of rock inside the quarry, it looked pretty climbable actually, however the pigs were making spooky noises, I could hear the construction site next door, and felt that given the huge amount of "keep out" signs I would have no way to really explain my presence if got caught. So I left.
It's certainly possible, but I think you'd have to be pretty mad to climb here. Given the current access situation and the warm/wet weather we've had lately I suspect the routes are even more overgrown than previous commenters suggest. I imagine if you get caught you'll get in trouble. Is it worth it?
Maybe some local teens will have a good "Kes"-esque "character building" introduction to climbing here, but unless trespass and bushwhacking are part of the experience for you, it's not worth travelling for.
In a word, "esoteric".|
teltrabm - 24/Jun/14
|A new high and sharp fence/barrier seems to have been put up in the place where the Leicestershire Climbs website says you can gain access to the quarry (just behind the gate as you walk clockwise around the quarry in the NW corner.) There weren't any signs saying keep out or anything, but clearly some people don't want anyone going in there.|
tim newton - 04/Mar/13
|One of the worst climbing venues I've visited! Scenic spot for a wild swim, but I'd rather climb at Stannington Ruffs...|
TonyM - 08/Oct/11
|Some pleasant climbs although a tad vegitated in places. Well worth an evenings visit. Take an ab-rope and its worth having a nut-key to clear placements when leading. See the Leicestershire climbs website.|
Nic DW - 23/Jun/11
|Its very overgrown, was there this summer, but it is a shame as the routes seem to look quite good. Would benefit hugely from some time with a trowel and just some regular climbing traffic.|
Steven Andrews - 09/Nov/09
|Big signs up saying PRIVATE and TRESPASSERS WILL BE PROSICUTED. Barbed wire fence has been pushed down but it does not look like a proper right of way. Went and looked down the slope but could not see any rock faces which are accessable unless you have a boat!|
Lathama - 30/Dec/04
|Very overgrown. Have just been, and only found two routes in good condition.|
mark cousen - 10/Mar/03