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High Tor Derbyshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 110 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces W
Simply the best limestone outcrop in the Country containing face climbing of outstanding quality. Routes (up to 60m long)like Debauchary (E1 5b,5b), Darius (E2 4c, 5c), Robert Brown (E3 5c, 5b), Supersonic (E5 6a), Flaky Wall (E4 5c), Castellan (E5 6b,6a) and Bastille (E6 6b) are the most well known of a huge number of high quality routes here. Of the few easy routes, Skylight (VS 4c) and Highlight (HVS 5a) and are well worth doing. Only two sport routes, the best being Pump Out the Squeelies (7b+). Mad max has also recently been sportingly bolted to give another tough 'sport' route.
A large section of rock has fallen from the left wing leaving one of the bolt belays very close to the scar. Recommend avoiding this belay if at all possible. [7/06]
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
From the flesh pots of Matlock Bath cross the footbridge under the Cable Cars and follow the footpath past the Ticket Office and then back left to contour the hill below the crag, (10 min).
For abseil access a padded steel chain has been placed around the obvious tree to avoid damage. Be aware of loose blocks on the first 2m and potential danger to those below.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Alan James - UKC and UKH
Parking at the station, as recommended in the current guide, costs £4 so well worth car sharing, or at least meeting up out of town first.|
Guy Maddox - 24/Aug/04
bit of a discrepancy about POTS being the best sport route with one star whilst WilE Coyote has 2 ! Personally I think the stars are right
Simon Lee - 11/Feb/04
Highlight is NOT an easy route - far from it.
Superb crag, even if you hate limestone.
DaveP - 19/Mar/02