High Tor

Climbs 111 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Simply the best limestone outcrop in the Country containing face climbing of outstanding quality. Routes (up to 60m long)like Debauchary (E1 5b,5b), Darius (E2 4c, 5c), Robert Brown (E3 5c, 5b), Supersonic (E5 6a), Flaky Wall (E4 5c), Castellan (E5 6b,6a) and Bastille (E6 6b) are the most well known of a huge number of high quality routes here. Of the few easy routes, Skylight (VS 4c) and Highlight (HVS 5a) and are well worth doing. Only two sport routes, the best being Pump Out the Squeelies (7b+). Mad max has also recently been sportingly bolted to give another tough 'sport' route.

A large section of rock has fallen from the left wing leaving one of the bolt belays very close to the scar. Recommend avoiding this belay if at all possible. [7/06]

Access notes
From the flesh pots of Matlock Bath cross the footbridge under the Cable Cars and follow the footpath past the Ticket Office and then back left to contour the hill below the crag, (10 min).

For abseil access a padded steel chain has been placed around the obvious tree to avoid damage. Be aware of loose blocks on the first 2m and potential danger to those below.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT WING  
2New World OrderE1 5b 4
3World's EndE4 6a *16
4No EntryE4 6a **20
5China SpringE5 6a *13
6Yellow Brick RoadE4 6b **18
7Amber GamblerE4 6a ***33
8A6E4 6a ***23
9BeepE5 6a 3
10High Torquing7c+ **3
11RoadrunnerE6 6b **4
12Wil E. Coyote7c **4
13M1E2 5b **110
14BleepE2 5c 2
15Mad MaxE6 6c **9
16Delta-GE4 6a **18
17V2E5 6b **6
18EntropyVS 4c *53
19LaybyHVS 5b 5
20Once in a MillenniumE3 6a *5
21The Girdle TraverseE5 6b ***1
22Shah Shah a Go GoE3 5b 1
23Statement of YofE2 5c  
24EnthalpyHVS 4c  
25Sting RayHVS 5a  
26Hanging BlockHVS 5b 1
27Night OwlE2 5c 4
28Cold TurkeyE1 5a 1
 MAIN FACE  
30High TourE3 5c *3
31High Tor GullyVD 11
32Penelope Pitstop6b  
33Lumb LaneHVS 4c 1
34LamplightHVS 5a **116
35Sportlight6c+ 11
36SearchlightE3 5c 1
37HighlightHVS 5a ***263
38Approach Pitch6b 2
39ArmaliteE4 5c  
40SkylightVS 4c ***255
41FantasiaE5 6b *1
42Plight of the RichE5 6a 5
43Light EntertainmentE4 5c 2
44Light and ShadeE5 6b 4
45Pump out the Squealies7b+ *6
46Squeezin' Out Sparks7c **4
47Limelight8b ***2
48CastellanE5 6b ***12
49LaurinE3 6a **33
50Nightmare of Brown DonkeysE3 6a ***56
51The Phrantic PhinishE4 5c 5
52Party in the ParkE5 6b 3
53Hot GossipE5 6a *3
54DelicatessenE2 5c ***171
55The GrapevineE5 6b * 
56Lyme CrymeE3 5c ***130
57Brompton's CocktailE5 6b *2
58Happy HourE6 6c *1
59Johnny BrownE5 6a *1
60Harvey WallbangerE5 6b *1
61Robert BrownE3 5c **129
62Ariadne's ThreadE5 6b *3
63DariusE2 5c ***326
64DebaucheryE1 5b ***518
65AndromedaE3 6a 4
66PerseusE3 5c **106
67The Unoriginal RouteE5 6a  
68Original RouteHVS 5a ***465
69Original Route Direct StartE1 5b ***7
70Tales of Yankee PowerE5 6a ***67
71Flaky WallE4 6a ***135
72ReproductionE6 6b ***16
73SupersonicE5 6a ***97
74My New HatE6 6c 1
75BastilleE6 6b ***16
76TumbrilE5 6a 1
77The Passion WagonE5 6b *1
78DecadenceE4 6a ***32
79The PillarE5 6a *9
80Pillar DirectE4 6a *6
81Cathy Come HomeE1 5b 5
 RIGHT WING  
83M.U.G.S. RouteHVS  
84No Way6b+ 5
85My Way7a+ 3
86Lee WayE5 6b 1
87Wezzy WonksHVS  
88Sideways6c 1
89All the Wubble u'sE3 5c  
90Zed LegsE1 5b 20
91That X FactorE4 6a 10
92Y-FrontE2 5c *36
93Corner ButtressE1 5b  
94Memories6a *108
95BoycottE1 5b 1
96Dutch Moon6b **77
97Venus Eruptus6c+ *42
98Black WeddingE4 6a * 
99Sargasso SeaE4 5c * 
100Saga Lout6b+ *72
101Endgame6c+ *47
102Scimitar GrooveVS 4c **29
103PrideE3 5c  
104My Pedigree Chum6a *83
105Scoobs6c *45
106PrejudiceE2 5b 15
107Lulu BelleE4 6a  
108Memo to SallyE3 5c *14
109If Dill Was Here6b 52
110Still SearchingE2 5b 12
111Beautiful WhiteE3 5c 6
112Lower Buttress RouteE3 5c *6
113At the Edge of EverythingE2 5c 7
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Parking at the station, as recommended in the current guide, costs 4 so well worth car sharing, or at least meeting up out of town first.
Guy Maddox - 24/Aug/04
bit of a discrepancy about POTS being the best sport route with one star whilst WilE Coyote has 2 ! Personally I think the stars are right
Simon Lee - 11/Feb/04
Highlight is NOT an easy route - far from it. Superb crag, even if you hate limestone.
DaveP - 19/Mar/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 09/May/2014

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