Climbs 112
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces W

Chris Jackson at the crux of Debauchery, High Tor © Gordon Stainforth

Crag features

Simply the best limestone outcrop in the Country containing face climbing of outstanding quality. Routes (up to 60m long)like Debauchary (E1 5b,5b), Darius (E2 4c, 5c), Robert Brown (E3 5c, 5b), Supersonic (E5 6a), Flaky Wall (E4 5c), Castellan (E5 6b,6a) and Bastille (E6 6b) are the most well known of a huge number of high quality routes here. Of the few easy routes, Skylight (VS 4c) Highlight (HVS 5a) and especially Original Route (HVS 5a) are well worth doing.

Although justifiably best known as a Trad crag the Right Wing has been extensively bolted in recent years by Gary Gibson to give a range of lower grade Sport routes. On the Main Face there are a selection of harder Sport routes in the Castellan Cave area and similarly on the Left Wing High Torquing and Wil E Coyote are fully bolted. Of note Mad Max and Roadrunner on the Left Wing are both "Sporty" being mainly protected by fixed gear.

 

Approach notes

From the flesh pots of Matlock Bath cross the footbridge under the Cable Cars and follow the footpath past the Ticket Office and then back left to contour the hill below the crag, (10 min).
For abseil access a padded steel chain has been placed around the obvious tree to avoid damage. Be aware of loose blocks on the first 2m and potential danger to those below.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Parking at the station, as recommended in the current guide, costs 4 so well worth car sharing, or at least meeting up out of town first.
Guy Maddox - 24/Aug/04
bit of a discrepancy about POTS being the best sport route with one star whilst WilE Coyote has 2 ! Personally I think the stars are right
Simon Lee - 11/Feb/04
Highlight is NOT an easy route - far from it. Superb crag, even if you hate limestone.
DaveP - 19/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left Wing 
2New World OrderE1 5b 6
3World's EndE4 6a *17
4No EntryE4 6a **22
5China SpringE4 6a *14
6Yellow Brick RoadE4 6b **18
7Amber GamblerE4 6a ***39
8A6E4 6a **24
9BeepE5 6a *3
10High Torquing7c+ **6
11RoadrunnerE6 6b **7
12Wil E. Coyote7c+ **8
13M1E2 5b ***145
14Bleep
-
E2 5c 2
15Mad MaxE6 6b **9
16Delta-GE4 6a ***25
17V2E5 6b **6
18EntropyVS 4c **66
19LaybyHVS 5b 5
20Once in a MillenniumE3 6a *5
21The Girdle Traverse
-
E5 6b ***2
22Shah Shah a Go Go
-
E3 5b 1
23Statement of Yof
-
E2 5c  
24Enthalpy
-
HVS 4c  
25Sting Ray
-
HVS 5a  
26Hanging Block
-
HVS 5b 1
27Night OwlE2 5c 4
28Cold Turkey
-
E1 5a 1
 Main Face 
30High Tour
-
E3 5c *3
31High Tor GullyVD 23
32Penelope Pitstop
-
6b  
33Lumb Lane
-
HVS 4c 1
34LamplightHVS 5a **141
35Sportlight7a *12
36Searchlight
-
E3 5c 1
37HighlightHVS 5a ***338
38Approach Pitch6b 4
39ArmaliteE4 5c  
40SkylightVS 4c ***360
41FantasiaE5 6b ***1
42Plight of the Rich7a+ 5
43Light EntertainmentE4 5c 2
44Light and Shade7a+ *5
45Light and Shade Right-hand Start7b+ *1
46Pump out the Squealies7b+ **6
47Squeezin' Out Sparks7c 3
48Limelight8b **4
49CastellanE5 6b ***20
50Big Cigar7c **2
51LaurinE3 6a ***39
52Nightmare of Brown DonkeysE3 5c ***65
53The Phrantic Phinish
-
E4 5c 5
54Party in the ParkE5 6b *7
55Hot GossipE5 6a *3
56DelicatessenE2 5c ***250
57The GrapevineE5 6b *1
58Lyme CrymeE3 5c ***170
59DementiaE5 6a **1
60Brompton's CocktailE5 6b *2
61Happy HourE6 6c *1
62Johnny BrownE5 6a *1
63Harvey WallbangerE5 6b *1
64Robert BrownE3 5c **164
65Ariadne's ThreadE5 6b *3
66DariusE2 5c ***482
67DebaucheryE1 5b ***742
68AndromedaE3 6a 6
69PerseusE3 5c **133
70The Unoriginal Route
-
E5 6a  
71Original RouteHVS 5a ***617
72Original Route Direct Start
-
E1 5b ***39
73Tales of Yankee PowerE5 6a ***75
74Flaky WallE4 6a ***202
75ReproductionE6 6b ***17
76SupersonicE5 6a ***147
77My New HatE6 6c 1
78BastilleE6 6b ***28
79TumbrilE5 6a 1
80The Passion WagonE5 6b *1
81DecadenceE4 6a ***43
82The PillarE5 6a *9
83Pillar DirectE4 6a *6
84Cathy Come HomeE1 5b 5
 Right Wing 
86M.U.G.S. Route
-
HVS  
87No Way6b+ 7
88My Way7a+ 3
89Lee WayE5 6b 1
90Wezzy Wonks
-
HVS  
91Sideways6c 1
92All the Wubble u'sE3 5c  
93Zed LegsE2 5b *30
94That X FactorE4 6a *21
95Y-FrontE2 5b *45
96Corner Buttress
-
E1 5b 1
97Memories6a *171
98Boycott
-
E1 5b 2
99Dutch Moon6b *126
100Venus Eruptus6c+ *70
101Black WeddingE5 6a  
102Sargasso SeaE4 5c  
103Saga Lout6b+ *121
104Endgame6c+ *81
105Scimitar GrooveVS 4c **47
106My Pedigree Chum6a 135
107Scoobs6c *80
108PrejudiceE2 5b *19
109Lulu BelleE4 6a  
110Memo to SallyE3 5c *18
111If Dill Was Here6b 78
112Still SearchingE2 5b 12
113Beautiful WhiteE3 5c *10
114Lower Buttress RouteE3 5c *6
115At the Edge of EverythingE2 5c 7

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