High Tor

Climbs 111 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Simply the best limestone outcrop in the Country containing face climbing of outstanding quality. Routes (up to 60m long)like Debauchary (E1 5b,5b), Darius (E2 4c, 5c), Robert Brown (E3 5c, 5b), Supersonic (E5 6a), Flaky Wall (E4 5c), Castellan (E5 6b,6a) and Bastille (E6 6b) are the most well known of a huge number of high quality routes here. Of the few easy routes, Skylight (VS 4c) and Highlight (HVS 5a) and are well worth doing. Only two sport routes, the best being Pump Out the Squeelies (7b+). Mad max has also recently been sportingly bolted to give another tough 'sport' route.

A large section of rock has fallen from the left wing leaving one of the bolt belays very close to the scar. Recommend avoiding this belay if at all possible. [7/06]

Access notes
From the flesh pots of Matlock Bath cross the footbridge under the Cable Cars and follow the footpath past the Ticket Office and then back left to contour the hill below the crag, (10 min).

For abseil access a padded steel chain has been placed around the obvious tree to avoid damage. Be aware of loose blocks on the first 2m and potential danger to those below.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Peak Limestone (2012), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2New World OrderE1 5b
3World's EndE4 6a *
4No EntryE4 6a **
5China SpringE5 6a *
6Yellow Brick RoadE4 6b **
7Amber GamblerE4 6a ***
8A6E4 6a ***
9BeepE5 6a
10High Torquing7c+ **
11RoadrunnerE6 6b **
12Wil E. Coyote7c **
13M1E2 5b **
14BleepE2 5c
15Mad MaxE6 6c **
16Delta-GE4 6a **
17V2E5 6b **
18EntropyVS 4c *
19LaybyHVS 5b
20Once in a MillenniumE3 6a *
21The Girdle TraverseE5 6b ***
22Shah Shah a Go GoE3 5b
23Statement of YofE2 5c
24EnthalpyHVS 4c
25Sting RayHVS 5a
26Hanging BlockHVS 5b
27Night OwlE2 5c
28Cold TurkeyE1 5a
30High TourE3 5c *
31High Tor GullyVD
32Penelope Pitstop6b
33Lumb LaneHVS 4c
34LamplightHVS 5a **
36SearchlightE3 5c
37HighlightHVS 5a ***
38Approach Pitch6b
39ArmaliteE4 5c
40SkylightVS 4c ***
41FantasiaE5 6b *
42Plight of the RichE5 6a
43Light EntertainmentE4 5c
44Light and ShadeE5 6b
45Pump out the Squealies7b+ *
46Squeezin' Out Sparks7c **
47Limelight8b ***
48CastellanE5 6b ***
49LaurinE3 6a **
50Nightmare of Brown DonkeysE3 6a ***
51The Phrantic PhinishE4 5c
52Party in the ParkE5 6b
53Hot GossipE5 6a *
54DelicatessenE2 5c ***
55The GrapevineE5 6b *
56Lyme CrymeE3 5c ***
57Brompton's CocktailE5 6b *
58Happy HourE6 6c *
59Johnny BrownE5 6a *
60Harvey WallbangerE5 6b *
61Robert BrownE3 5c **
62Ariadne's ThreadE5 6b *
63DariusE2 5c ***
64DebaucheryE1 5b ***
65AndromedaE3 6a
66PerseusE3 5c **
67The Unoriginal RouteE5 6a
68Original RouteHVS 5a ***
69Original Route Direct StartE1 5b ***
70Tales of Yankee PowerE5 6a ***
71Flaky WallE4 6a ***
72ReproductionE6 6b ***
73SupersonicE5 6a ***
74My New HatE6 6c
75BastilleE6 6b ***
76TumbrilE5 6a
77The Passion WagonE5 6b *
78DecadenceE4 6a ***
79The PillarE5 6a *
80Pillar DirectE4 6a *
81Cathy Come HomeE1 5b
83M.U.G.S. RouteHVS
84No Way6b+
85My Way7a+
86Lee WayE5 6b
87Wezzy WonksHVS
89All the Wubble u'sE3 5c
90Zed LegsE1 5b
91That X FactorE4 6a
92Y-FrontE2 5c *
93Corner ButtressE1 5b
94Memories6a *
95BoycottE1 5b
96Dutch Moon6b **
97Venus Eruptus6c+ *
98Black WeddingE4 6a *
99Sargasso SeaE4 5c *
100Saga Lout6b+ *
101Endgame6c+ *
102Scimitar GrooveVS 4c **
103PrideE3 5c
104My Pedigree Chum6a *
105Scoobs6c *
106PrejudiceE2 5b
107Lulu BelleE4 6a
108Memo to SallyE3 5c *
109If Dill Was Here6b
110Still SearchingE2 5b
111Beautiful WhiteE3 5c
112Lower Buttress RouteE3 5c *
113At the Edge of EverythingE2 5c
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Parking at the station, as recommended in the current guide, costs 4 so well worth car sharing, or at least meeting up out of town first.
Guy Maddox - 24/Aug/04
bit of a discrepancy about POTS being the best sport route with one star whilst WilE Coyote has 2 ! Personally I think the stars are right
Simon Lee - 11/Feb/04
Highlight is NOT an easy route - far from it. Superb crag, even if you hate limestone.
DaveP - 19/Mar/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 09/May/2014

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