Search results... 1 crag found
[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SK 297589 (OS Landranger #119)

Do you have more up to date information?
Please click to
These details were last updated on 26/Jun/2012

High Tor

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 110 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Simply the best limestone outcrop in the Country containing face climbing of outstanding quality. Routes (up to 60m long)like Debauchary (E1 5b,5b), Darius (E2 4c, 5c), Robert Brown (E3 5c, 5b), Supersonic (E5 6a), Flaky Wall (E4 5c), Castellan (E5 6b,6a) and Bastille (E6 6b) are the most well known of a huge number of high quality routes here. Of the few easy routes, Skylight (VS 4c) and Highlight (HVS 5a) and are well worth doing. Only two sport routes, the best being Pump Out the Squeelies (7b+). Mad max has also recently been sportingly bolted to give another tough 'sport' route.

A large section of rock has fallen from the left wing leaving one of the bolt belays very close to the scar. Recommend avoiding this belay if at all possible. [7/06]

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 LEFT WING  
2New World OrderE1 5b 4
3World's EndE4 6a *15
4No EntryE4 6a **17
5China SpringE5 6a *12
6Yellow Brick RoadE4 6b **16
7A6E4 6a ***6
8Amber GamblerE4 6a ***21
9A6/Ambler Gambler ConnectionE4 6a ***16
10BeepE5 6a 3
11High Torquing7c+ **2
12RoadrunnerE6 6b **3
13Wil E. Coyote7c **4
14FreewayE6 6b 3
15M1E2 5b **85
16BleepE2 5c 2
17Mad MaxE6 6c **7
18Delta-GE4 6a **15
19V2E5 6b **5
20EntropyVS 4c *46
21LaybyHVS 5b 5
22Once in a MillenniumE3 6a *5
23The Girdle TraverseE5 6b ***1
24Shah Shah a Go GoE3 5b 1
25Statement of YofE2 5c  
26EnthalpyHVS 4c  
27Sting RayHVS 5a  
28Hanging BlockHVS 5b 1
29Night OwlE2 5c 4
30Cold TurkeyE1 5a 1
 MAIN FACE  
32High Tor GullyVD 9
33High TourE3 5c *3
34Penelope Pitstop6b  
35Lumb LaneHVS 4c 1
36LamplightHVS 5a **93
37SearchlightE3 5c 1
38HighlightHVS 5a ***202
39Sportlight6c+ 8
40SkylightVS 4c ***190
41ArmaliteE4 5c  
42FantasiaE5 6b *1
43Plight of the RichE5 6a 5
44Light EntertainmentE4 5c 2
45Light and ShadeE5 6b 4
46Pump out the Squealies7b+ *5
47Limelight8b ***1
48Squeezin' Out Sparks7c **4
49MoonlightE5 A1, 6b *1
50CastellanE5 6b ***10
51LaurinE3 6a **26
52Nightmare of Brown DonkeysE3 6a ***41
53Party in the ParkE5 6b 3
54The Phrantic PhinishE4 5c 5
55Hot GossipE5 6a *3
56DelicatessenE2 5c ***124
57The GrapevineE5 6b * 
 Climb nameGradex
58Lyme CrymeE3 5c ***104
59Brompton's CocktailE5 6b *1
60Robert BrownE3 5c **96
61Ariadne's ThreadE5 6b *2
62DariusE2 5c ***263
63DebaucheryE1 5b ***408
64The Unoriginal RouteE5 6a  
65AndromedaE3 6a 2
66PerseusE3 5c **85
67Original RouteHVS 5a ***358
68Tales of Yankee PowerE5 6a ***47
69Flaky WallE4 6a ***109
70ReproductionE6 6b ***13
71SupersonicE5 6a ***78
72My New HatE6 6c 1
73BastilleE6 6b ***14
74TumbrilE5 6a 1
75The Passion WagonE5 6b *1
76DecadenceE4 6a ***30
77The PillarE5 6a *8
78Pillar DirectE4 6a *5
79Cathy Come HomeE1 5b 5
 RIGHT WING  
81M.U.G.S. RouteHVS  
82Wezzy WonksHVS  
83No Way6b+ 4
84My Way7a+ 3
85Lee WayE5 6b 1
86Sideways6c 1
87All the Wubble u'sE3 5c  
88Zed LegsE1 5b 18
89That X FactorE4 6a 8
90Y FrontE2 5c *30
91Memories6a *86
92Corner ButtressE1 5b  
93BoycottE1 5b 1
94Dutch Moon6b **61
95Venus Eruptus6c+ *36
96Black WeddingE4 6a * 
97Sargasso SeaE4 5c * 
98Saga Lout6b+ *52
99Endgame6c+ *38
100Scimitar GrooveVS 4c **22
101My Pedigree Chum6a *68
102Scoobs6c *38
103PrejudiceE2 5b 13
104Lulu BelleE4 6a  
105Memo to SallyE3 5c *13
106If Dill Was Here6b 41
107Still SearchingE2 5b 10
108Beautiful WhiteE3 5c 4
109Lower Buttress RouteE3 5c *5
110At the Edge of EverythingE2 5c 5
 OTHER ROUTES  
112Happy Hour *E6 6c *1
113Harvey Wallbanger *E5 6b *1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Advertise here
Access notes
From the flesh pots of Matlock Bath cross the footbridge under the Cable Cars and follow the footpath past the Ticket Office and then back left to contour the hill below the crag, (10 min).

For abseil access a padded steel chain has been placed around the obvious tree to avoid damage. Be aware of loose blocks on the first 2m and potential danger to those below.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Alan James - UKC and UKH ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Parking at the station, as recommended in the current guide, costs £4 so well worth car sharing, or at least meeting up out of town first.
Guy Maddox - 24/Aug/04

bit of a discrepancy about POTS being the best sport route with one star whilst WilE Coyote has 2 ! Personally I think the stars are right
Simon Lee - 11/Feb/04

Highlight is NOT an easy route - far from it. Superb crag, even if you hate limestone.
DaveP - 19/Mar/02