Altitude 150m a.s.l
Chris Jackson at the crux of Debauchery, High Tor © Gordon Stainforth
Simply the best limestone outcrop in the Country containing face climbing of outstanding quality. Routes (up to 60m long)like Debauchary (E1 5b,5b), Darius (E2 4c, 5c), Robert Brown (E3 5c, 5b), Supersonic (E5 6a), Flaky Wall (E4 5c), Castellan (E5 6b,6a) and Bastille (E6 6b) are the most well known of a huge number of high quality routes here. Of the few easy routes, Skylight (VS 4c) and Highlight (HVS 5a) and are well worth doing. Only two sport routes, the best being Pump Out the Squeelies (7b+). Mad max has also recently been sportingly bolted to give another tough 'sport' route.
A large section of rock has fallen from the left wing leaving one of the bolt belays very close to the scar. Recommend avoiding this belay if at all possible. [7/06]
From the flesh pots of Matlock Bath cross the footbridge under the Cable Cars and follow the footpath past the Ticket Office and then back left to contour the hill below the crag, (10 min).
For abseil access a padded steel chain has been placed around the obvious tree to avoid damage. Be aware of loose blocks on the first 2m and potential danger to those below.
|Parking at the station, as recommended in the current guide, costs £4 so well worth car sharing, or at least meeting up out of town first.|
Guy Maddox - 24/Aug/04
|bit of a discrepancy about POTS being the best sport route with one star whilst WilE Coyote has 2 ! Personally I think the stars are right |
Simon Lee - 11/Feb/04
|Highlight is NOT an easy route - far from it.
Superb crag, even if you hate limestone.|
DaveP - 19/Mar/02