High Tor

Climbs 111 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Simply the best limestone outcrop in the Country containing face climbing of outstanding quality. Routes (up to 60m long)like Debauchary (E1 5b,5b), Darius (E2 4c, 5c), Robert Brown (E3 5c, 5b), Supersonic (E5 6a), Flaky Wall (E4 5c), Castellan (E5 6b,6a) and Bastille (E6 6b) are the most well known of a huge number of high quality routes here. Of the few easy routes, Skylight (VS 4c) and Highlight (HVS 5a) and are well worth doing. Only two sport routes, the best being Pump Out the Squeelies (7b+). Mad max has also recently been sportingly bolted to give another tough 'sport' route.

A large section of rock has fallen from the left wing leaving one of the bolt belays very close to the scar. Recommend avoiding this belay if at all possible. [7/06]

Approach notes
From the flesh pots of Matlock Bath cross the footbridge under the Cable Cars and follow the footpath past the Ticket Office and then back left to contour the hill below the crag, (10 min).

For abseil access a padded steel chain has been placed around the obvious tree to avoid damage. Be aware of loose blocks on the first 2m and potential danger to those below.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak SE Pokketz (2007), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992), Peak Limestone - South (1987), Rock climbs in the Peak - Derwent valley (1981)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LEFT WING  
2New World OrderE1 5b 5
3World's EndE4 6a *16
4No EntryE4 6a **21
5China SpringE4 6a *13
6Yellow Brick RoadE4 6b **18
7Amber GamblerE4 6a ***33
8A6E4 6a **24
9BeepE5 6a *3
10High Torquing7c+ **3
11RoadrunnerE6 6b **4
12Wil E. Coyote7c+ **4
13M1E2 5b ***121
14BleepE2 5c 2
15Mad MaxE6 6b **9
16Delta-GE4 6a ***20
17V2E5 6b **6
18EntropyVS 4c **58
19LaybyHVS 5b 5
20Once in a MillenniumE3 6a *5
21The Girdle TraverseE5 6b ***1
22Shah Shah a Go GoE3 5b 1
23Statement of YofE2 5c  
24EnthalpyHVS 4c  
25Sting RayHVS 5a  
26Hanging BlockHVS 5b 1
27Night OwlE2 5c 4
28Cold TurkeyE1 5a 1
 MAIN FACE  
30High TourE3 5c *3
31High Tor GullyVD 12
32Penelope Pitstop6b  
33Lumb LaneHVS 4c 1
34LamplightHVS 5a **126
35Sportlight7a *11
36SearchlightE3 5c 1
37HighlightHVS 5a ***288
38Approach Pitch6b 3
39ArmaliteE4 5c  
40SkylightVS 4c ***279
41FantasiaE5 6b ***1
42Plight of the Rich7a+ 5
43Light EntertainmentE4 5c 2
44Light and Shade7a+ *4
45Light and Shade Right-hand Start7b+ * 
46Pump out the Squealies7b+ **6
47Squeezin' Out Sparks7c 4
48Limelight8b **2
49CastellanE5 6b ***14
50LaurinE3 6a ***36
51Nightmare of Brown DonkeysE3 5c ***59
52The Phrantic PhinishE4 5c 5
53Party in the ParkE5 6b *3
54Hot GossipE5 6a *3
55DelicatessenE2 5c ***191
56The GrapevineE5 6b *1
57Lyme CrymeE3 5c ***136
58Brompton's CocktailE5 6b *2
59Happy HourE6 6c *1
60Johnny BrownE5 6a *1
61Harvey WallbangerE5 6b *1
62Robert BrownE3 5c **136
63Ariadne's ThreadE5 6b *3
64DariusE2 5c ***356
65DebaucheryE1 5b ***575
66AndromedaE3 6a 5
67PerseusE3 5c **112
68The Unoriginal RouteE5 6a  
69Original RouteHVS 5a ***506
70Original Route Direct StartE1 5b ***23
71Tales of Yankee PowerE5 6a ***72
72Flaky WallE4 6a ***148
73ReproductionE6 6b ***16
74SupersonicE5 6a ***98
75My New HatE6 6c 1
76BastilleE6 6b ***19
77TumbrilE5 6a 1
78The Passion WagonE5 6b *1
79DecadenceE4 6a ***35
80The PillarE5 6a *9
81Pillar DirectE4 6a *6
82Cathy Come HomeE1 5b 5
 RIGHT WING  
84M.U.G.S. RouteHVS  
85No Way6b+ 5
86My Way7a+ 3
87Lee WayE5 6b 1
88Wezzy WonksHVS  
89Sideways6c 1
90All the Wubble u'sE3 5c  
91Zed LegsE2 5b *24
92That X FactorE4 6a *14
93Y-FrontE2 5b *37
94Corner ButtressE1 5b  
95Memories6a *138
96BoycottE1 5b 2
97Dutch Moon6b *100
98Venus Eruptus6c+ *54
99Black WeddingE5 6a  
100Sargasso SeaE4 5c  
101Saga Lout6b+ *98
102Endgame6c+ *57
103Scimitar GrooveVS 4c **36
104PrideE3 5c  
105My Pedigree Chum6a 108
106Scoobs6c *56
107PrejudiceE2 5b *16
108Lulu BelleE4 6a  
109Memo to SallyE3 5c *16
110If Dill Was Here6b 65
111Still SearchingE2 5b 12
112Beautiful WhiteE3 5c *6
113Lower Buttress RouteE3 5c *6
114At the Edge of EverythingE2 5c 7
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Parking at the station, as recommended in the current guide, costs 4 so well worth car sharing, or at least meeting up out of town first.
Guy Maddox - 24/Aug/04
bit of a discrepancy about POTS being the best sport route with one star whilst WilE Coyote has 2 ! Personally I think the stars are right
Simon Lee - 11/Feb/04
Highlight is NOT an easy route - far from it. Superb crag, even if you hate limestone.
DaveP - 19/Mar/02