Climbs 100
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 289m a.s.l
Faces E

John's intro to Germany cragging © Malpractise

Crag features

Over 100 routes with grades from 2 to 8 mostly in the 4 to 7 range.

All single pitch with single/double lower off bolts. Possible to top out and walk off.

The crag is around 25m high.

All routes are bolted in a German style, generaly bolted around the cruxes of routes, a small rack is necessary.

Largest crag in the area so can get busy at weekends.

Beware of sections of loose rock, these are usually quite obvious, with some sectors or routes having been closed off.

Approach notes

No restrictions

Approaches: From South, follow signs to Bingen and then foolw B9 toward Koblenz/St Goar. After around 5m, turn left up a dirt track following signs for Gerhardshof. Car Park is approx 2km up the track. From North, head towards Trechtinghausen on the B9. After 1km turn right up the dirt track towards Gerhardshof. Watch for the ruts!

Park at the large car park. Crag is approx 5 - 10 mins walk from the DAV notice board.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Kluverwand 
2Big Wall
-
VII  
3Linke Soomrisswand
-
V+ 1
4Soomkante
-
V+  
5Jowokante
-
IV 1
6Jowoweg
-
V+  
 Regensburger Wand 
8Regensburger Wand
-
VI- 1
9Wiesbadener Verschneidung
-
IV 2
10Zitronelimonadenweg
-
VII  
11Vier-Manner-Wand
-
VI+ 1
12English Breakfast
-
VI  
13Drei-Haken-Quergang
-
VI-  
14Kamin
-
III  
15Verlangerrung(insgesamt)
-
VI  
16Sachsenriss Nr.1
-
III+  
17Sachsenwand
-
V 1
18Bob's Corner
-
III 2
19Zickzackriss
-
V 1
20Sachsenriss Nr.2
-
III  
21Kim's Way
-
V 1
 Herkules 
23Herkulesfuhre
-
A1  
24Freie Variante
-
VIII-  
25Holzkeilriss
-
VI+  
26Bubsi
-
VIII  
 Frakfurter Wand 
28Maxitus
-
V+  
29Maxitus Direkt
-
VII-  
30Kleine Frankfurter
-
V 1
31Kasschachtel
-
V  
32Neue Frankfurter Direkte
-
VI+  
33Nosferatu
-
VII  
34Sumpfbiber
-
VII- **1
35Aprilscherz
-
VI+  
36Ochsenchwanzsuppe
-
VII * 
37Alte Frankfurter Direkte
-
VI+ * 
38Alte Frankfurter Normale
-
IV+ *1
39Himmelspfortchen
-
VIII-  
40Hollentor
-
VI-  
41Ubers Wappen
-
VII-  
42Ameisenriss
-
VI+  
43Fegefeuer
-
VI-  
 Schinderhannes 
45Weg der Barmherzigkeit
-
VII- ** 
46Schinderhannesweg
-
VI * 
47Success
-
VII  
48Panzerknacker
-
VIII+  
49Teufelsloch
-
VI  
 Hakenrisse 
51Mauvais Pas
-
III+ 1
52Turmchenvariante
-
V+  
53Einstiegsvariante
-
V  
54Regenkante
-
VII+  
55Weg des Hammers
-
VI- 1
56Funf-Haken-Riss
-
V+ 1
57Direkter Einstieg
-
V+  
58Zwei-Haken-Riss
-
V- **3
59Gilt Nicht!
-
VII- 1
60Kiefernriss
-
III  
61Vier-Haken-Wand
-
VI- **2
62Federweisser
-
III  
63Einsame Wand
-
III **2
 Wappenwand 
65Birkenrisswand
-
IV+ 2
66Birkenriss
-
III+ 1
67Grosse Kante
-
IV *2
68Direkter Einstieg
-
V- 1
69Wappenwand
-
V *1
70Namenloser Riss
-
IV+ 2
71Jakobsleiter
-
III  
72Weinertkante
-
V- **5
73Vier-Haken-Riss
-
IV+ 1
74Rallyestreifen
-
VI+ *5
75Uberholspur
-
III  
 Mainzer Turm (Westseite) 
77Normalweg
-
III  
78Linker Bauch
-
V+  
79Mittlerer Bauch
-
VI-  
80Sudwand-Direkte
-
III+ 1
81Direkter Einstieg
-
III 1
82Rechter Bauch (Nahmaschine)
-
VI- 3
 Mainzer Turm (Bachseite) 
84Linke Bachkante
-
V+  
85Rechte Bachkante
-
VI-  
86Pumplippe
-
VII  
87Direkter Einstieg
-
VI-  
 Mainzer Turm (Rheinseite) 
89Linke Rheinseite
-
V+ *1
90Rheinseite-Direkte
-
IV **2
91Kuhlenkampf
-
V+ 1

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