Cummingston

Climbs 212 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude Tidal – Faces N

Crag features
Well known as the place to come if the weather is a bit miserable in the area as the Moray coast is usually clear. Gets a lot of sun despite its mainly north aspect. The most popular routes get the sun in the evening. [John Scott]

Access notes
From Elgin on the A96 head for Hopeman (6miles). Pass through Hopeman to Cummingston and take a R just before the white memorial at the RHS of the road. This leads to a small car park with children's play area. The climbing is 5 mins from here along a disused railway to the west for a couple of hundred yards. No access problems, but watch your footing on the way down as it can be slippy.

Guidebooks
North East Outcrops (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 ORANGE WALL AREA 
2Orange PeelE1 5b
3Route OneVS 4c
4Ginger SnapHVS 4c
5Drainpipe WallE2 6b
6ThumperE3 6a
7Tangerine ScreamE5 6a
8Hickory Dickory DockE4 6a
9Flakey WallE1 5a *
10Route TwoE2 5b
11SkelpE2 5c
12King SwingE2 5c
13BeserkerE4 6b
14Power StuggleE5 6a
 GUTBUSTER BAY 
16Beastie's WallHS 4a
17Middle Muddle GrooveD
18Middle Muddle DirectVS 5a
19Jugular WallHS 4b
20Mud, Sweat and TearsHS 4b
21Hernia CornerE2 6a **
22Anal StretchE6 6b **
23LegbusterE2 5c *
24GutbusterE2 5c **
25Kneewrecker ChimneyVS 4c **
26Sea WitchE3 5b
27The ConjurerE3 6a
28Sandy VolestranglerE3 6b
29Dali's WallHS
30The Melting ClockE2 5c
31SidleVS 4c
 PROPHET WALLS 
33The GripperHVS 5b *
34Surf Nazis Must DieE5 6b **
35Aesthetic ApeE4 6a **
36Bat AttackE5 6a
37Orange ApeE2 5c *
38Statutory ApeE6 6c **
39Bat's WallE4 6a ***
40Monkey MafiaE5 6b ***
41The Noddy MachineE2 5b *
42Noddy Machine (Mayne Line Start)E3 6a
43Jaded AreteE2 5c
44Triangular GrooveHVS 5a
45Border CrossingHS 4b
46BorderlineVS 4c
47PalmistE4 6b *
48The ProphetE2 5c **
49AfricaE4 6a *
50I-ChingE3 5c *
51LeftVS 5a **
52CentreVS 4b **
53RightHVS 5b **
 STACKS AREA - TAPERED WALL 
55Mr TweetE3 6b **
56The NestE2 6a *
 STACKS AREA - DOUBT WALL 
58Doubtless WallS *
59The Artful DodgerHVS 5a
60Diedre of DoubtHVS 5a **
61Diedre of Double DoubtE2 5b **
62Doubting ThomasE2 5b
63Staircase CrackS
64Green CrackVS 4c
65Lumside CrackS
66The LumVD
67CascadeVS 5a
 STACKS AREA - CORNFLAKE WALLS 
69Snotty NoseD
70Pegless WallHVS 4c
71Old Peg GrooveVS 4c *
72Cornflake WallM *
73Shredded WheatVD
74Rice Crispie WallD *
75The GrooveD
76BombproofS *
77BlockproofS
78BlockbusterVD *
79Doddle DiedreS *
80StegosaurusVS 4c **
81GibbonHVS 5c *
82TrapezeVS 5b *
 STACKS AREA - ARCH WALL 
84Bottemless ChimneyE3 6b
85Pipefish WallE3 6a *
86Slab and TickleVD *
87Giraffe CornerE3 6a
88Arch WallE5 6b **
89Sandstone WallHVS 5a
90AppletiserHVS 5a *
91Le CrunchE4 5c *
92Fourth DimensionE2 5c
93Jewels UndergroundE3 6a
94Brain WarpE2 5c
95Puppet on a StringA3
96BullworkerHVS 5a *
97ArchiboldE4 6a
98Expanders CrackVS 4c
 STACKS AREA - SUNSHINE WALL 
100Easy AreteM
101Sunshine RoofHS *
102Sunshine GrooveS
103SunshineHVS 5b
104Sunshine RecessS
105Gorse RouteS
106Sunshine CrackVS 4c
107Sunshine ExtraHS 4b
 THE STACK 
109Captain BirdseyeE2 5b *
110Fingers WallE3 5b
111Fingers Wall (Direct Start)E3 6a
112Flying Buttress, Left SideVD
113Flying Buttress, Right SideD
114Flying GrooveVS 4c *
115The ProwE5 6a **
116Cutty SarkS
117East Side StoryVD
118Back PassageM
119Dirty Old ManVD
120Sunset SongHS 4b *
121FootlooseVS 4c
122BlockyVD
123Butchers BroomVS 4b *
124Shadow FlakeHVS 5a
125Coach Bolt CrackVS 4c
126Huggy BearVS 4c
127The Pedestalf4
 THE SENTINAL STACK 
129Jutting Flake CrackHS 4b
130Vein AttractionS
131Ramp RouteS *
 BOULDERING 
 BOULDERING - ORANGE WALL AREA 
134Pipe Overhangf6A 6a **
135Pipe Slabf6A+ *
 BOULDERING - TUNNEL AREA 
137Tunnel Visionf6A+ **
138The Darknessf6B
139Bulgyf6B *
140Bertief6A+ 6a *
 BOULDERING - PROPHET AREA 
142Jawsf7A **
143The Great Whitef6B+ **
144Bite Radiusf6A+ *
145Big Bluef6B 6a
146Toochief6B+ 6b
147Surf Nazisf6C **
148Bridge Defencef6A+
149The Shieldf6C *
150Under Siegef6A
151Attack Attack!f6C *
152Batty Batf6B+ 6b
153Masonic-Finger-Shakef6C+ ***
154Palmistf6B+ 6b
155Highballf6C *
156Highball Aretef6A+ 6a
157The Arete between Centre and Right (right side)f5+ 5c
158Sloperf6A 6a
15999 Flakef6A
16099 Flake stand startf4
161Right upf3+
162The Low Downf6A 6a *
163The Low Down Stand Startf5
164Left Hand Legend Originalf6B *
165Left Hand Legend Variationf6A+
166Left Hand Shortcutf5
167Bay Watchf7A
 BOULDERING - BALAMORY BOULDER 
169Dafftyf6A 6a
170Miss Hoolief3 4b
171PC Pinchf6B 6b
172Suzie Scoopf6A+ 6a
173Penny Pocketf6B 6b *
174Josie Jumpf6B 6b
175Archief3+ 5a
176Edie McCredief3 4b
177Balamory Traversef5 5b
 BOULDERING - STACKS AREA 
179There's Something About Dianaf6C+ **
180Birdmanf7A **
181Egretf6C *
182The Storkf6C *
183The Nest (boulder problem)f6A **
184Clawf6A+ ***
185PythonV2
186Boys On The Beachf6A+ *
187Artful Dodgerf5 5c
188Bat Manf6B *
189Robinf6A 6a
 BOULDERING - CAVE AREA 
191Central Face Low Level Traversenone 5c **
192Pocketsf5+
193Cave Manf6C **
194Gorillaf7A **
195Technically It's Not A Pigeonf6B *
196Sciaticaf6B **
197Simoncellif6B+ **
198Chao Sicf6C **
199Cave Beastf6A
200Cave Aretef6A+ *
201Ritchies Rockoverf6C+ **
202Buddha's Choicef6B **
203KinkyBitchf6C **
204Finger Lickerf7A ***
205The Crucifixf6B 6b **
206Ginger Rides Againf7B **
207Match and Snatchf7A+ ***
208Crackf6A+ *
209Double Stretchf6A 6a *
210A Jerk Too Farf6B
211Jerkerf6A
212Jerklessf6A+ 6b *
213Pipefish Wall (boulder problem)f6A 6a *
214Headbangerf5+ 5c *
215Arch Wall (boulder problem)f6A+ *
216Pudding Prowf6B **
 BOULDERING - SUNSHINE WALL AREA 
218Sunshine Wallf5+ 5b
219Mr. Binneyf4 5a
220Illonas Crackf3 4a
221Aralditef4 5a
222Latifaf3 4b
223Skunk Wallf4 5a
224Buddah of Brodief6B *
225Pipf6B
226Martin's Aretef3 4b
227Dougsterf5+ 5b
 BOULDERING - CUMMINGSTON WEST 
229Clash City Rockersf5 5b
230The Day The World Turned Dayglowf4+ 5b
231Toms Wall Cummingston S
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Callum_Johnson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
First time here at the weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Rock is good, lots of holds for both hands and feet and protection is more than adequate. Lovely place to climb!!
CyberTaff - 12/Aug/13
Since the storm last week some of beach levels in areas have changed the sit starts/landings to some problems. The balmory boulder level is lower, not sure of the affects. Over in the cave a lower start to Sciatica, simoncelli and technically.. are all possible. The landing below KinkyBitch has leveled off nicely covering up the large rocks. Below finger licker is a similar height but has levelled off between the rocks. The beach below Gorilla is slightly lower, not changing the start much. The landing below the Sunshine Slabs has been pulled apart quite a bit and will change the climbing considerably.
Callum_Johnson - 25/Dec/12
Having lead a few routes here, I'd say their are some rather over polarised views represented here. Some of the rock is indeed sound and produces sound very well protected climbs. Other areas it's utter choss with holds actually crumbling away as you step on them - with no 'proper' protection on whole climbs. Some common sense and caution is required for trad leading here.
CurlyStevo - 30/Jul/12
hey guys, i left a black evolv defy shoe at the cave, iff anyone finds it , please say! amazing place
HenryCowan - 27/Nov/11
Both previous comments are complete bollox. This is a standard trad leading crag NOT a SS-sh1te style top-roping crag. (Oh and bouldering of course). The gear is perfectly fine if you know what you're doing and place it well. If you can't do that, go somewhere else to learn to lead.
Fiend - 11/May/09
Loads of routes. Great area for top roping. Agree with previous comment about leading. Chances are pro wouldn't hold if you took a lead fall.
Mick Townshend - 08/Jun/06
Amazing little sandstone crag on the firth with wonderful views. Very grippy with tons of friction. Great bouldering although i wouldn't lead anything there because of it's softness. Bit like East Sussex, good for top roping. Amazing views and fresh sea air.
JoHNY - 21/Jul/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 10/Jan/2013

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