Cummingston

Moray, SCOTLAND

Climbs 105 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude Tidal – Faces N

Crag features
Well known as the place to come if the weather is a bit miserable in the area as the Moray coast is usually clear. Gets a lot of sun despite its mainly north aspect. The most popular routes get the sun in the evening. [John Scott]

Weather forecast

Today	Wed	Thu	Fri	Sat
Light rain/ drizzle Sunny/ clear 3 °C	Light rain/ drizzle Mainly cloudy 3 °C	Light rain Mainly cloudy 3 °C	Light rain/ drizzle Sunny periods 4 °C	Light rain/ drizzle Sunny periods 4 °C
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
North East Outcrops (2003)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	ORANGE WALL AREA
2	Orange Peel	E1 5b	6
3	Route One	VS 4c	10
4	Ginger Snap	HVS 4c	5
5	Drainpipe Wall	E2 6b	2
6	Thumper	E3 6a
7	Tangerine Scream	E5 6a
8	Hickory Dickory Dock	E4 6a
9	Flakey Wall	E1 5a *	9
10	Route Two	E2 5b	2
11	Skelp	E2 5c	1
12	King Swing	E2 5c	1
13	Beserker	E4 6b
14	Power Stuggle	E5 6a
	GUTBUSTER BAY
16	Beastie's Wall	HS 4a	1
17	Middle Muddle Groove	D	5
18	Sandy Volestrangler	E3 6b
	PROPHET WALLS
20	The Gripper	HVS 5b *	3
21	Orange Ape	E2 5c *	3
22	The Noddy Machine	E2 5b *	2
23	Jaded Arete	E2 5c	3
24	Border Crossing	HS 4b	1
25	Borderline	VS 4c	9
26	The Prophet	E2 5c **	33
27	I-Ching	E3 5c *	8
28	Left	VS 5a **	70
29	Centre	VS 4b **	82
30	Right	HVS 5b **	60
	STACKS AREA - TAPERED WALL
32	The Nest	E2 6a *	2
	STACKS AREA - DOUBT WALL
34	Doubtless Wall	S *	75
35	The Artful Dodger	HVS 5a	11
36	Diedre of Doubt	HVS 5a **	41
37	Diedre of Double Doubt	E2 5b **	14
38	Doubting Thomas	E2 5b	7
39	Staircase Crack	S	53
40	Green Crack	VS 4c	27
41	Lumside Crack	S	18
42	The Lum	VD
43	Cascade	VS 5a	6
	STACKS AREA - CORNFLAKE WALLS
45	Snotty Nose	D	54
46	Pegless Wall	HVS 4c	1
47	Old Peg Groove	VS 4c *	36
48	Cornflake Wall	M *	49
49	Shredded Wheat	VD	31
50	Rice Crispie Wall	D *	45
51	The Groove	D	35
52	Bombproof	S *	37
53	Blockproof	S	13
54	Blockbuster	VD *	42
55	Doddle Diedre	S *	81
56	Stegosaurus	VS 4c **	79
57	Gibbon	HVS 5c *	18
58	Trapeze	VS 5b *	39

	Climb name	Grade	x

	STACKS AREA - ARCH WALL
60	Pipefish Wall	E3 6a *	3
61	Slab and Tickle	VD *	16
62	Giraffe Corner	E3 6a	4
63	Sandstone Wall	HVS 5a	2
64	Bullworker	HVS 5a *	2
65	Expanders Crack	VS 4c	2
	STACKS AREA - SUNSHINE WALL
67	Easy Arete	M	15
68	Sunshine Roof	HS *	37
69	Sunshine Groove	S	16
70	Sunshine	HVS 5b	8
71	Sunshine Recess	S	18
72	Gorse Route	S	22
73	Sunshine Crack	VS 4c	15
74	Sunshine Extra	HS 4b	7
	THE STACK
76	Captain Birdseye	E2 5b *	3
77	Fingers Wall	E3 5b	1
78	Fingers Wall (Direct Start)	E3 6a	1
79	Flying Buttress,Left Side	VD	35
80	Flying Buttress, Right Side	D	22
81	Flying Groove	VS 4c *	17
82	East Side Story	VD	5
83	Back Passage	M	11
84	Sunset Song	HS 4b *	9
85	Footloose	VS 4c	1
86	Butchers Broom	VS 4b *	4
87	Coach Bolt Crack	VS 4c	5
88	Huggy Bear	VS 4c	3
89	The Pedestal	font 4	1
	THE SENTINAL STACK
91	Jutting Flake Crack	HS 4b	2
92	Vein Attraction	S	1
93	Ramp Route	S *	2
	BOULDERING
95	Pipe Slab	font 6a+ *	1
96	Tunnel Vision	font 6a+ **	2
97	The Darkness	font 6b	2
98	Jaws	font 7a **	2
99	The Shield	font 6c *	1
100	Surf Nazis	font 6c **	3
101	Masonic-Finger-Shake	font 6c+ ***	8
102	Highball Arete	font 6a+ 6a	6
103	The Arete between Centre and Right (right side)	font 5+ 5c	4
104	Balamory Traverse	font 5 5b	15
105	PC Pinch	font 6b 6b	6
106	Josie Jump	font 6b 6b	2
107	The Nest (boulder problem)	font 6a **	6
108	Pipefish Wall (boulder problem)	font 6a 6a *	1
109	Double Stretch	font 6a 6a *	2
110	Headbanger	font 5+ 5c *	4
111	Jerker	font 6a	10
112	Jerkless	font 6a+ 6b *	1
113	Cave Arete	font 6a+ *	6
114	Birdman *	font 7a **	1
115	Buddha's Choice *	font 6b **	1
116	Robin *	font 6a 6a	1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Ron Walker
Carrbridge, HIGHLAND
"Ron Walker (MIC, IML) of Talisman Mountaineering Activities, provides friendly, qualified guiding & instruction in mountain sports. Based in Aviemore..."
www.talisman-activities.co.uk

Advertise here

Access notes
From Elgin on the A96 head for Hopeman (6miles). Pass through Hopeman to Cummingston and take a R just before the white memorial at the RHS of the road. This leads to a small car park with children's play area. The climbing is 5 mins from here along a disused railway to the west for a couple of hundred yards. No access problems, but watch your footing on the way down as it can be slippy.

Classifieds
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USER FEEDBACK

Both previous comments are complete bollox. This is a standard trad leading crag NOT a SS-sh1te style top-roping crag. (Oh and bouldering of course). The gear is perfectly fine if you know what you're doing and place it well. If you can't do that, go somewhere else to learn to lead.
Fiend

- 11/May/09

Loads of routes. Great area for top roping. Agree with previous comment about leading. Chances are pro wouldn't hold if you took a lead fall.
Mick Townshend - 08/Jun/06

Amazing little sandstone crag on the firth with wonderful views. Very grippy with tons of friction. Great bouldering although i wouldn't lead anything there because of it's softness. Bit like East Sussex, good for top roping. Amazing views and fresh sea air.
JoHNY - 21/Jul/04

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On site solo of a classic The Prow E5-6a?

iain o'may,(Ring of Bright Water 6a Font 6a i think)

Me on the top easy section of Left (VS5a) at Cummingston