Climbs 213 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude Tidal – Faces N

Crag features
Well known as the place to come if the weather is a bit miserable in the area as the Moray coast is usually clear. Gets a lot of sun despite its mainly north aspect. The most popular routes get the sun in the evening. [John Scott]

Approach notes
From Elgin on the A96 head for Hopeman (6miles). Pass through Hopeman to Cummingston and take a R just before the white memorial at the RHS of the road. This leads to a small car park with children's play area. The climbing is 5 mins from here along a disused railway to the west for a couple of hundred yards. No access problems, but watch your footing on the way down as it can be slippy.

North East Outcrops (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Orange PeelE1 5b 7
3Route OneVS 4c 24
4Ginger SnapHVS 4c 12
5Drainpipe WallE2 6b 4
6ThumperE3 6a  
7Tangerine ScreamE5 6a 1
8Hickory Dickory DockE4 6a  
9Flakey WallE1 5a *16
10Route TwoE2 5b 5
11SkelpE2 5c 3
12King SwingE2 5c 4
13BeserkerE4 6b  
14Power StuggleE5 6a  
16Beastie's WallHS 4a 7
17Middle Muddle GrooveD 12
18Middle Muddle DirectVS 5a 2
19Jugular WallHS 4b 6
20Mud, Sweat and TearsHS 4b 4
21Hernia CornerE2 6a ** 
22Anal StretchE6 6b **1
23LegbusterE2 5c *1
24GutbusterE2 5c **4
25Kneewrecker ChimneyVS 4c **9
26Sea WitchE3 5b  
27The ConjurerE3 6a  
28Sandy VolestranglerE3 6b 1
29Dali's WallHS  
30The Melting ClockE2 5c  
31SidleVS 4c 1
33The GripperHVS 5b *15
34Surf Nazis Must DieE5 6b **1
35Aesthetic ApeE4 6a **6
36Bat AttackE5 6a  
37Orange ApeE2 5c *12
38Statutory ApeE6 6c ** 
39Bat's WallE4 6a ***8
40Monkey MafiaE5 6b ***2
41The Noddy MachineE2 5b *6
42Noddy Machine (Mayne Line Start)E3 6a  
43Jaded AreteE2 5c 4
44Triangular GrooveHVS 5a 5
45Border CrossingHS 4b 7
46BorderlineVS 4c 31
47PalmistE4 6b *7
48The ProphetE2 5c **109
49AfricaE4 6a *1
50I-ChingE3 5c *25
51LeftVS 5a **228
52CentreVS 4b **283
53RightHVS 5b **208
55Mr TweetE3 6b ** 
56The NestE2 6a *4
58Doubtless WallS *257
59The Artful DodgerHVS 5a 34
60Diedre of DoubtHVS 5a **124
61Diedre of Double DoubtE2 5b **41
62Doubting ThomasE2 5b 12
63Staircase CrackS 206
64Green CrackVS 4c 124
65Lumside CrackS 52
66The LumVD 16
67CascadeVS 5a 17
69Snotty NoseD 209
70Pegless WallHVS 4c 18
71Old Peg GrooveVS 4c *96
72Cornflake WallM *172
73Shredded WheatVD 87
74Rice Crispie WallD *137
75The GrooveD 114
76BombproofS *152
77BlockproofS 49
78BlockbusterVD *126
79Doddle DiedreS *253
80StegosaurusVS 4c **256
81GibbonHVS 5c *52
82TrapezeVS 5b *114
84Bottemless ChimneyE3 6b  
85Pipefish WallE3 6a *7
86Slab and TickleVD *49
87Giraffe CornerE3 6a 14
88Arch WallE5 6b **4
89Sandstone WallHVS 5a 9
90AppletiserHVS 5a *3
91Le CrunchE4 5c * 
92Fourth DimensionE2 5c 3
93Jewels UndergroundE3 6a  
94Brain WarpE2 5c  
95Puppet on a StringA3  
96BullworkerHVS 5a *8
97ArchiboldE4 6a  
98Expanders CrackVS 4c 3
100Easy AreteM 32
101Sunshine RoofHS *112
102Sunshine GrooveS 56
103SunshineHVS 5b 22
104Sunshine RecessS 34
105Gorse RouteS 79
106Sunshine CrackVS 4c 35
107Sunshine ExtraHS 4b 17
109Captain BirdseyeE2 5b *19
110Fingers WallE3 5b 12
111Fingers Wall (Direct Start)E3 6a 3
112Flying Buttress, Left SideVD 154
113Flying Buttress, Right SideD 87
114Flying GrooveVS 4c *70
115The ProwE5 6a **11
116Cutty SarkS 10
117East Side StoryVD 10
118Back PassageM 33
119Dirty Old ManVD 6
120Sunset SongHS 4b *42
121FootlooseVS 4c 5
122BlockyVD 6
123Butchers BroomVS 4b *13
124Shadow FlakeHVS 5a 6
125Coach Bolt CrackVS 4c 16
126Huggy BearVS 4c 13
127The Pedestalf4 4
129Jutting Flake CrackHS 4b 6
130Vein AttractionS 5
131Ramp RouteS *5
134Pipe Overhangf6A 6a **3
135Pipe Slabf6A+ *7
137Tunnel Visionf6A+ **12
138The Darknessf6B 2
139Bulgyf6B *6
140Bertief6A+ 6a *1
142Jawsf7A **12
143The Great Whitef6B+ **10
144Bite Radiusf6A+ *2
145Big Bluef6B 6a 4
146Toochief6B+ 6b 4
147Surf Nazisf6C **8
148Bridge Defencef6A+ 1
149The Shieldf6C *11
150Under Siegef6A 3
151Attack Attack!f6C *3
152Batty Batf6B+ 6b 5
153Masonic-Finger-Shakef6C+ ***34
154Palmistf6B+ 6b 12
155Highballf6C *2
156Highball Aretef6A+ 6a 23
157The Arete between Centre and Right (right side)f5+ 5c 9
158Sloperf6A 6a 7
15999 Flakef6A 2
16099 Flake stand startf4 2
161Right upf3+ 3
162The Low Downf6A 6a *8
163The Low Down Stand Startf5 1
164Left Hand Legend Originalf6B *1
165Left Hand Legend Variationf6A+ 1
166Left Hand Shortcutf5 1
167Bay Watchf7A  
169Dafftyf6A 6a 4
170Miss Hoolief3 4b 11
171PC Pinchf6B 6b 20
172Suzie Scoopf6A+ 6a 16
173Penny Pocketf6B 6b *28
174Josie Jumpf6B 6b 7
175Archief3+ 5a 16
176Edie McCredief3 4b 14
177Balamory Traversef5 5b 47
179There's Something About Dianaf6C+ **3
180Birdmanf7A **31
181Egretf6C *5
182The Storkf6C *3
183The Nest (boulder problem)f6A **40
184Clawf6A+ ***5
185PythonV2 2
186Boys On The Beachf6A+ *3
187Artful Dodgerf5 5c 5
188Bat Manf6B *9
189Robinf6A 6a 15
191Central Face Low Level Traversenone 5c **1
192Pocketsf5+ 8
193Cave Manf6C **10
194Gorillaf7A **7
195Technically It's Not A Pigeonf6B *3
196Sciaticaf6B **5
197Simoncellif6B+ **11
198Chao Sicf6C **3
199Cave Beastf6A 9
200Cave Aretef6A+ *33
201Ritchies Rockoverf6C+ **1
202Buddha's Choicef6B **13
203KinkyBitchf6C **9
204Finger Lickerf7A ***8
205The Crucifixf6B 6b **3
206Ginger Rides Againf7B **2
207Match and Snatchf7A+ ***10
208Crackf6A+ *5
209Double Stretchf6A 6a *9
210A Jerk Too Farf6B 2
211Jerkerf6A 37
212Jerklessf6A+ 6b *4
213Pipefish Wall (boulder problem)f6A 6a *1
214Headbangerf5+ 5c *5
215Arch Wall (boulder problem)f6A+ *3
216Pudding Prowf6B **1
218Sunshine Wallf5+ 5b 10
219Mr. Binneyf4 5a 10
220Illonas Crackf3 4a 13
221Aralditef4 5a 9
222Latifaf3 4b 10
223Skunk Wallf4 5a 4
224Buddah of Brodief6B * 
226Martin's Aretef3 4b 5
227Dougsterf5+ 5b 2
229Clash City Rockersf5 5b  
230The Day The World Turned Dayglowf4+ 5b  
231Toms Wall CummingstonS 1
232The Beast *E2 5b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Callum_Johnson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
First time here at the weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Rock is good, lots of holds for both hands and feet and protection is more than adequate. Lovely place to climb!!
CyberTaff - 12/Aug/13
Since the storm last week some of beach levels in areas have changed the sit starts/landings to some problems. The balmory boulder level is lower, not sure of the affects. Over in the cave a lower start to Sciatica, simoncelli and technically.. are all possible. The landing below KinkyBitch has leveled off nicely covering up the large rocks. Below finger licker is a similar height but has levelled off between the rocks. The beach below Gorilla is slightly lower, not changing the start much. The landing below the Sunshine Slabs has been pulled apart quite a bit and will change the climbing considerably.
Callum_Johnson - 25/Dec/12
Having lead a few routes here, I'd say their are some rather over polarised views represented here. Some of the rock is indeed sound and produces sound very well protected climbs. Other areas it's utter choss with holds actually crumbling away as you step on them - with no 'proper' protection on whole climbs. Some common sense and caution is required for trad leading here.
CurlyStevo - 30/Jul/12
hey guys, i left a black evolv defy shoe at the cave, iff anyone finds it , please say! amazing place
HenryCowan - 27/Nov/11
Both previous comments are complete bollox. This is a standard trad leading crag NOT a SS-sh1te style top-roping crag. (Oh and bouldering of course). The gear is perfectly fine if you know what you're doing and place it well. If you can't do that, go somewhere else to learn to lead.
Fiend - 11/May/09
Loads of routes. Great area for top roping. Agree with previous comment about leading. Chances are pro wouldn't hold if you took a lead fall.
Mick Townshend - 08/Jun/06
Amazing little sandstone crag on the firth with wonderful views. Very grippy with tons of friction. Great bouldering although i wouldn't lead anything there because of it's softness. Bit like East Sussex, good for top roping. Amazing views and fresh sea air.
JoHNY - 21/Jul/04