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Cambusbarron West Quarry (aka Fourth Quarry) Stirlingshire, SCOTLAND
Climbs 48 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 68m a.s.l – Faces W
Pleasant outlook; on a summers evening, dries much more quickly than closed quarry. Year-round climbing possible.
Several good E1s: those on "Contracts" buttress, plus Cross in Oz on buttress left of 'Cha'. Small scope for new routes, but topping out on unfrequented areas can involve loose rock on a structural scale.
Provides easier routes if you don't want to be scared by the harder routes in the closed quarry!
As with all the Central belt dolerite quarries there is often loose rock to be found here, particularly on the top-outs and even on well established routes. In addition there have also been several serious rock falls in the Easy Contract to Doobie Brothers area, the most recent being on March 2010 from the top of Ramplin'.
As of 10/10/10 there's been a serious rockfall from the top of Scrubbers.
Be careful folks.
Lowland Outcrops (2005)
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Access and parking as for Cambusbarron main quarry.
On-line guide at http://www.scottishclimbs.com
Access around the back of the main quarry at Cambusbarron. Abseil may be a good idea.
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer aln
seanthomas_1 I climbed here a couple of times last season but only the severes. Other members of the Ochils Mountaineering Club climb here regularly. If you climb in the lower grades (upto VS4C) there is not much here but if you climb HVS + then you are spoiled for choice (my wife and friends who climb the higher grades assure me). There are some decent Sever and VS grades next door in Thorntons instead.|
CyberTaff - 05/Jan/14
Has anyone been here more recently?
seanthomas_1 - 04/Dec/13
2 Youtube views of this venue
Denpov - 14/Feb/11
There is a taxi rank outside Stirling train station that is also close to the bus station. Multiple taxi firms pick up from here and the quarry is a short ride away, ask to be taken to Quarry Road in Cambusbarron close to the Forester's Arms Pub. Taxi price 2011 is £4.50 to £6.00 approx.
Denpov - 14/Feb/11
Cambusbarron West/Fourth Quarry is an excellent, easily accessible, trad venue offering routes from Severe (Here Come the Mini-Monks or Ramplin') right up to E6 6c (Production Line). Its best to start 'ticking' from the left-side of the quarry as you enter it as the routes further round are dodgy looking and very loose. The well-used routes are excellent and encompass a wide range of styles, both individually and on the same routes. Some popular favourites are:
Ramplin' - Severe
Malky the Alky - E1 5b
Cross-town Traffic - E1 5b
Gobi Roof - E2 5c
Arse on Stumps - E3 5c
Chisel - E4 6a
Looney Tunes - E5 6b (though in the guide as E4 6a)
In summer the quarry is a perfect sun-trap and dries quickly after rain, as well as sporting an awesome view across to the hills in the north.
The rock is Dolerite which shares similar characteristics to grit - with good crimps and slopers that sometimes only just exist, but of good quality, and climbs that sometimes rely on funky friction based moves to progress.
You'll be pleased to hear there's not much in the way of ned acitivty, which is rare in this area - just watch out for the broken Buckie bottles that are littered just about everywhere though.
dodfoster - 16/May/05