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These details were last updated on 12/Oct/2010

Cambusbarron West Quarry (aka Fourth Quarry)

Stirlingshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 48 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 68m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Pleasant outlook; on a summers evening, dries much more quickly than closed quarry. Year-round climbing possible.

Several good E1s: those on "Contracts" buttress, plus Cross in Oz on buttress left of 'Cha'. Small scope for new routes, but topping out on unfrequented areas can involve loose rock on a structural scale.

Provides easier routes if you don't want to be scared by the harder routes in the closed quarry!

As with all the Central belt dolerite quarries there is often loose rock to be found here, particularly on the top-outs and even on well established routes. In addition there have also been several serious rock falls in the Easy Contract to Doobie Brothers area, the most recent being on March 2010 from the top of Ramplin'.

As of 10/10/10 there's been a serious rockfall from the top of Scrubbers.

Be careful folks.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Cairngorms & MonadhliathMet Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks
Lowland Outcrops (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Ninety-FiveE1 5b 73
2Scales of Injustice7b+ *3
3Production LineE6 6c 4
4ScrubbersE1 5b 4
5Climb on you Crazy DiamondE3 5c 1
6Bird's Nest CrackVS 5a 22
7One for the BuzzardsHVS 5a 5
8Cross in OzE1 5b *93
9Cross-town TrafficE1 5b **36
10Arse on StumpsE3 5c *8
11ChaS 4a *52
12Looney TunesE4 6a *8
13Wind UpVS 5a 7
14YoshimiE1 5b *6
15Force 8E1 5b *30
16PipistrelleHVS 5a *32
17Unnamed6c **20
18Miss PoE2 5c 5
19Public Spirited IndividualE3 5c **16
20Optimist's ChimneyVS 4c 8
21ChiselE4 6a ***52
22Gobi RoofE2 5c ***149
23Ramplin'S ***103
 Climb nameGradex
24Here Come The Mini MonksS 4c 86
25FrustrationE2 6a 8
26Kansas City ShuffleE3 5c **3
27Not Easy ContractE1 5b **257
28Easy ContractHVS 5b **230
29Bo's GirdleE2 5b 3
30Slot ShotE3 5c 52
31Crack AttackE3 6a 24
32Slot Shot RH FinishE3 5c *2
33ChimeE2 5b *23
34Another One Bites the DustE1 5b 91
35Malky the AlkyE1 5b *185
36The Doobie BrothersE1 5b **194
37ToddleS 26
38Thank God For FriendsHVS 5b 5
39Smack My Birch UpVS 5a 3
40Decidedly DodgyHVS 5a *15
41Le Bal des Oiseaux FantomesE3 5c **10
42ButtonsHVS 5b 3
43ScaresvilleE3 5c **5
44Confessions of a Speed FreakE1 5b 3
45The Rock of CrackE2 5c 1
46Sticky WillowsE2 5c 1
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Access notes
Access and parking as for Cambusbarron main quarry.

On-line guide at http://www.scottishclimbs.com

Access around the back of the main quarry at Cambusbarron. Abseil may be a good idea.

Classifieds
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2 Youtube views of this venue http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYJq3FRC6i8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okODt4lId8M
Denpov ? - 14/Feb/11

There is a taxi rank outside Stirling train station that is also close to the bus station. Multiple taxi firms pick up from here and the quarry is a short ride away, ask to be taken to Quarry Road in Cambusbarron close to the Forester's Arms Pub. Taxi price 2011 is £4.50 to £6.00 approx.
Denpov ? - 14/Feb/11

Cambusbarron West/Fourth Quarry is an excellent, easily accessible, trad venue offering routes from Severe (Here Come the Mini-Monks or Ramplin') right up to E6 6c (Production Line). Its best to start 'ticking' from the left-side of the quarry as you enter it as the routes further round are dodgy looking and very loose. The well-used routes are excellent and encompass a wide range of styles, both individually and on the same routes. Some popular favourites are: Ramplin' - Severe Malky the Alky - E1 5b Cross-town Traffic - E1 5b Gobi Roof - E2 5c Arse on Stumps - E3 5c Chisel - E4 6a Looney Tunes - E5 6b (though in the guide as E4 6a) In summer the quarry is a perfect sun-trap and dries quickly after rain, as well as sporting an awesome view across to the hills in the north. The rock is Dolerite which shares similar characteristics to grit - with good crimps and slopers that sometimes only just exist, but of good quality, and climbs that sometimes rely on funky friction based moves to progress. You'll be pleased to hear there's not much in the way of ned acitivty, which is rare in this area - just watch out for the broken Buckie bottles that are littered just about everywhere though. Have fun!
dodfoster - 16/May/05