Climbs 51
Rocktype Granite

Faces S

Crag features

The rocky south-eastern tip of Craignaw consists of a number of clean buttresses of premium-quality granite, unaccountably overlooked in the past. The crag is south-facing and all day sun (with a consequent lack of midges) and a lovely outlook are further bonuses. Wires are far more use here than on most other Galloway mountain crags.

http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/Galloway/craignaw.htm

http://www.johnbiggar.com/snibe-hill-rock-climbing.asp

Approach notes

Approach: Either from Craigencallie up the Backhill of Bush Road until directly opposite the crag at NX 478817 in an area of recent felling, at which point it is possible to cross the Cooran Lane and approach the crag directly. The location of faint goat tracks across the moor tend to indicate the best places to cross the otherwise deep and sinister Cooran Lane (1 hour by bike, 1 1/2 hours on foot). Alternatively from Loch Trool by way of Loch Valley (1 1/2 hours).

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Grit Buttress 
2Almscliff V Diff
-
HVS 5b  
3Goatesque
-
E2 5b  
4Goatzilla
-
E2 5c  
 Wisdom Wall 
6The Young Pretender
-
HVS 5a  
7Long Tall Sally
-
HVS 5b 2
8Hooves of Fire
-
E1 5a  
 The Seven Pillars 
10Swamp Fever
-
S 4a  
11McKinlay Murmerings
-
VD  
12Denali De-Brief
-
HS 4b *2
13Cleanliness is Next to
-
S 4a ** 
14Goatliness
-
HS 4b *2
15Burning the Goats
-
HS 4b * 
16Goatee
-
VD  
17Arabian Nights
-
VD  
 The Uncarved Block 
19Pointless of the Snibe
-
S 4a  
20Timorous Cooran Beastie
-
E1 5b ** 
21Springs of Enchantment
-
E1 5b ***1
22Ram Attang
-
VS 4c * 
23Silver Sand
-
VS 4c **2
 The Arete 
25The Call of the Weird
-
VS 5a * 
26The Arete Direct
-
E3 6b ** 
27The Arete
-
VS 4c *2
28Walk on Hot Coals
-
VS 4c ** 
 Cornarroch Walls 
30Eau de Goat
-
VS 4c  
31Cat Goat your Tongue?
-
VS 4c * 
32Cornarroch Chimney
-
VD  
33Original Route
-
D  
 Top Tower 
35Man the Lifegoats
-
VS 4c * 
36Chook Run
-
HS 4b  
37Direct Variation
-
HVS 5a  
 The Philosopher's Stone 
39Bambi
-
HVS 5a  
40Beltie
-
E3 5c *** 
41If it's Hard at the Bottom, It's Turf at the Top
-
S 4b  
 Lower Slabs 
43The Goat, the Bad and the Ugly
-
VS 5a  
44Let the Goat Times Roll
-
VS 4c * 
45Kid's Play
-
M  
 The Slab of the Snibe 
47Yllas
-
S 4b  
48Gordon Bennett
-
HVS 4c  
49Nehpets
-
S 4b  
50Goat for It!
-
VS 4c  
51Sally Arete
-
S  
 The Pearly Goats 
53Rivergoat Rambler
-
VS 4c  
54The Alchemist's Dream
-
E1 5b *** 
55Juniper Cracks
-
VS 4c  
56Juniper Cracks Direct
-
E2 5b * 
57Wider by Faa
-
VS 4c  
58Little Egypt
-
VS  
59Jethro
-
VS 4c  
60The Faa Side
-
VD  
61Faa Harder
-
HS 4c  
62Faa Harder Still
-
E1 5a  

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