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Ratho Quarry Midlothian, SCOTLAND
Climbs 65 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces S
A very fine dolerite quarry that surrounds the EICA Ratho climbing wall - almost as good as the indoor wall and often considerably warmer!! With recent
plant clearance and revitalised trad routes from HVS upwards, it can be in condition throughout the year and deserves to regain it's popularity.
Central Belt classics like Wally 1 E2 5c ***, Gruel Brittania E3 6a *** and Shear Fear E2 5c ** are complimented by both other fine trad routes such as
Welcome To The Cruise E1 5b **, Pete's Wall E1 5b **, Rebel With Claws E2 5c **, Strongarm E3 6a **, Wally 2 E4 5c **, Wally 3 E4 6a ** and Pettifar's Wall
E4 6a **, and new sport routes like The Corrieman F6b+ ** and Kamikaze F6c+ **
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)
Climbs at this crag
The Lothain Buses X48 service goes to Ratho village from where a pleasant 10/15 minute walk along the canal gets you to the centre. The service runs 4 times an hour, to Ingleston park & ride, but only 2 buses an hour continue to Ratho village.
Alternatively the First Group 27/x27 service stops at Wilkieston from where the centre is a brisk 15 minutes along a fairly busy road.
Either head through the indoor wall and head out into the quarry through the external doors just before the wall turnstile, or head around the outside as detailed below. Note that if you wish to use the wall facilities you must return to reception, pay and collect an access card and wristband.
Access from outside:
1. Head northwards (towards the M8) from the carpark, traverse the quarry edge clockwise to reach the fire escape. Open the gate then use to access the quarry floor. (UPDATE - gate and fence covered in anti-climb paint, but latch can be easily opened with a nut-key)
2. Head towards the centre main entrance from the carpark, but take a right-turn via an access track. Follow this down, then back up until you reach the east (right) side of the centre, where a set of external stairs allows you to access the quarry floor.
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer andymoin
Needs a considerable amount of updating: Pettifar's Wall and Wally 2 are back to their correct trad state (although the sport listings could be kept as a "historical" record). TFCers Half Moon was clearly not led as the entry indicates "I can see no trad protection on this route" and the claimed FA is when it was top-roped (by Denpov?). At any rate it is superceded by The Corrieman which should be F6b+ **. Wally 2 and 3 are both **. Access is easy through the centre, using the external doors just before the barrier.
Fiend - 02/Dec/13
Ratho bus number has changed from the Lothain Buses X48 to the Lothain Buses x12 and 12.
Denpov - 16/Mar/13
I did a toprope to try the climb at the line of bolt studs between Strongarm and Wally 3. The large flake that is used for the high runner does not look like the most secure peice of rock I have seen. Be careful using this large flake folks.
Denpov - 16/Mar/13
Still great climbing, but the topouts need debushed to allow traversing to the descent route/s (we abseiled from the post above shear fear (look through the post first!) If not, your only option is to jump the fence and walk round, though this is damaging the fence behind the popular climbs! You would have thought a climbing centre would have better access...
jonnie3430 - 08/Jun/12
Just a general note that the spike jug on Shear Fear just after you pull onto the first difficult section (used to take a good wire) is now dangerously loose, making the first section slightly harder to climb and protect. Probably needs glueing or removing really.
hexcentric - 06/May/12
Can be easily accessed through the centre, via a pretty reasonable coffee. WARNING: The "small ledge" on Ane Ledge E3 5c * is dangerously detached and starting coming away from the wall when I was pulling on it. It seems solid to stand on ONLY. Needs bolting on or pulling off. Good route otherwise.
Fiend - 10/Mar/11
BEWARE - the Ratho car park shuts just after ten pm. They lock a gate over the exit!!! Once they do that there is no escape. We found the best thing to do was to phone the police who found called a local keyholder to let us out ...
mhowie - 02/Jun/10
Third sunday in a row up here, great quality climbing that needs more traffic. Chopped down the brambles and gorse around Beanpud, Rock-a-Boogie and Rebel Without Claws and cleaned pete's wall. Will try and sort more in future visits.
andymoin - 24/Feb/08
May'04 - Ratho quarry is open for climbing! Access is free via the Adventure Centre but you need to sign-in.
Extra care should be taken since many of the routes are dirty with loose rock. Guide book descriptions & grades may also be unreliable. The top of the crag is very unstable in places.
Mark Lydon - 27/May/04
Access to this quarry will be exceedingly difficult until September 2003 due to the completed roof of the NRCC of Scotland.
Of course from September it isn't going to be easy either if you don't want to part with some money.
I would suggest to anyone who has not heard about the NRCC to visit <a href="http://www.adventurescotland.com/homeset.htm">www.nrcc.co.uk</a>. It does look rather impressive.
Tony - 21/Aug/03