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These details were last updated on 16/Dec/2013

Ratho Quarry

Midlothian, SCOTLAND

Climbs 65 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
A very fine dolerite quarry that surrounds the EICA Ratho climbing wall - almost as good as the indoor wall and often considerably warmer!! With recent plant clearance and revitalised trad routes from HVS upwards, it can be in condition throughout the year and deserves to regain it's popularity.

Central Belt classics like Wally 1 E2 5c ***, Gruel Brittania E3 6a *** and Shear Fear E2 5c ** are complimented by both other fine trad routes such as Welcome To The Cruise E1 5b **, Pete's Wall E1 5b **, Rebel Without Claws E2 5c **, Strongarm E3 6a **, Wally 2 E4 5c **, Wally 3 E4 6a ** and Pettifar's Wall E4 6a **, and new sport routes like The Corrieman F6b+ ** and Kamikaze F6c+ **

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.9mm rain
Mainly cloudy
6 °C
34 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
7 °C
12 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
19 kph

1.4mm rain
Sunny periods
9 °C
29 kph

5.1mm rain
Cloudy
9 °C
15 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Southern Uplands

Guidebooks
Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 NOW INSIDE EICA (KEPT FOR HISTORICAL RECORDS)  
2Once upon a flake crackHVS 5a 2
3Doomed OasisE3 5c 8
4GodzillaE2 5c *15
5Spiny NormanS 1
6Scotty AreteS *6
7SaharaE3 6a 1
 WEST WALL  
9Alan's GrooveHVS 5a 6
10Monkey PuzzlerS 57
11Chalk and CheeseE2 5a *14
12Jungle RockVS 14
13The Plums of Ratho7a+ *9
14The Grapes of Ratho6b+ **46
15DiverticulitisE3 6a **12
16AlopeciaE4 6a *7
17Welcome to the CruiseE2 5c **65
18Ane LedgeE3 5c *25
19ShoskredHVS 5a *229
20Between ContractsHVS 5a *37
21Cracking UpHVS 5a *129
22Quick PullHVS 5a 20
23(Slow Strain - without bolts)E2 6a *16
24Slow Strain6b 25
25Buzooka7b+ **13
26Pettifer's WallE4 6a **16
27(Pettifar's Wall - via bolts)6c 9
28Kamikaze6c+ **24
29John McCain6b **19
30Panzer6a+ *16
 BLACK WALL  
32Sedge WarblerE2 5b **57
33Time's Last GiftHVS 5b *39
 Climb nameGradex
34Up the CreekE1 5b 17
35Pete's WallE2 5c **32
36ArthoE4 6b *10
 EAST WALL  
38Ouroborus EliminateE3 5c *16
39OurobourusHVS 5b *162
40Shear FearE2 5c ***126
41StrongarmE3 6a **27
42Wally 3E4 6a **14
43The Corrieman6c **13
44Wally 2E4 5c **23
45(Wally 2 - via bolts)6c 8
46Wounded Knee7a+ *10
47CorneredE1 5c 6
48So it GoesE2 5c 4
49FledgeVS 5a 18
505000 Christmas TreesE2 5c *3
51Business as usualE3 6a 2
52Danger no EntryVS 4c 5
53Fairy FeatVS 4c 1
54MonVS 4c 3
55Pull the Other OneE1 5c 2
56BeanpudE1 5b **44
57Election SicknessVS 4c  
58Rock-a-BoogieVS 4c **78
59Rebel Without ClawsE2 5c **34
 EAST BAY  
61This Sceptic HeilE5 6b ***14
62Gruel BrittaniaE3 6a ***18
63Jumping Jack SplatE3 6a 3
64The Lone GrooverE3 6a *2
65Wally 1E2 5c ***41
66Blue RinseE1 5c **46
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Access notes
Access by car:

Leave the M8 at Junction 2 and follow the signs.

Access by bus:

The Lothain Buses X48 service goes to Ratho village from where a pleasant 10/15 minute walk along the canal gets you to the centre. The service runs 4 times an hour, to Ingleston park & ride, but only 2 buses an hour continue to Ratho village. Alternatively the First Group 27/x27 service stops at Wilkieston from where the centre is a brisk 15 minutes along a fairly busy road.

Approach via building:

Either head through the building and out into the quarry through the external doors just before the wall turnstile, or head around the outside as detailed below. Note that if you wish to use the wall facilities you must return to reception, pay and collect an access card and wristband.

Approach via outside:

1. Head northwards (towards the M8) from the carpark, traverse the quarry edge clockwise to reach the fire escape. Open the gate then use to access the quarry floor. (UPDATE - gate and fence covered in anti-climb paint, but latch can be easily opened with a nut-key)

2. Head towards the centre main entrance from the carpark, but take a right-turn via an access track. Follow this down, then back up until you reach the east (right) side of the centre, where a set of external stairs allows you to access the quarry floor.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Fiend

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Top out of quick pull is terrible, definately worth cleaning before attempting . . . found this out to mates cost
seanhendo123 - 13/Jan/14

Now updated in accordance with recent development and recent tree/rock clearance.
Fiend - 16/Dec/13

Ratho bus number has changed from the Lothain Buses X48 to the Lothain Buses x12 and 12.
Denpov - 16/Mar/13

I did a toprope to try the climb at the line of bolt studs between Strongarm and Wally 3. The large flake that is used for the high runner does not look like the most secure peice of rock I have seen. Be careful using this large flake folks.
Denpov - 16/Mar/13

Still great climbing, but the topouts need debushed to allow traversing to the descent route/s (we abseiled from the post above shear fear (look through the post first!) If not, your only option is to jump the fence and walk round, though this is damaging the fence behind the popular climbs! You would have thought a climbing centre would have better access...
jonnie3430 - 08/Jun/12

Just a general note that the spike jug on Shear Fear just after you pull onto the first difficult section (used to take a good wire) is now dangerously loose, making the first section slightly harder to climb and protect. Probably needs glueing or removing really.
hexcentric - 06/May/12

Can be easily accessed through the centre, via a pretty reasonable coffee. WARNING: The "small ledge" on Ane Ledge E3 5c * is dangerously detached and starting coming away from the wall when I was pulling on it. It seems solid to stand on ONLY. Needs bolting on or pulling off. Good route otherwise.
Fiend - 10/Mar/11

BEWARE - the Ratho car park shuts just after ten pm. They lock a gate over the exit!!! Once they do that there is no escape. We found the best thing to do was to phone the police who found called a local keyholder to let us out ...
mhowie - 02/Jun/10

Third sunday in a row up here, great quality climbing that needs more traffic. Chopped down the brambles and gorse around Beanpud, Rock-a-Boogie and Rebel Without Claws and cleaned pete's wall. Will try and sort more in future visits.
andymoin - 24/Feb/08

May'04 - Ratho quarry is open for climbing! Access is free via the Adventure Centre but you need to sign-in. Extra care should be taken since many of the routes are dirty with loose rock. Guide book descriptions & grades may also be unreliable. The top of the crag is very unstable in places.
Mark Lydon - 27/May/04

Access to this quarry will be exceedingly difficult until September 2003 due to the completed roof of the NRCC of Scotland. Of course from September it isn't going to be easy either if you don't want to part with some money. I would suggest to anyone who has not heard about the NRCC to visit <a href="http://www.adventurescotland.com/homeset.htm">www.nrcc.co.uk</a>. It does look rather impressive.
Tony - 21/Aug/03