The Dovestones Quarries

Climbs 118 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 320m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Three quarries set in the moor above Dovestones Reservoir. The smallest (right-hand quarry), is the least extensive, but the most solid. Worth dropping in on the way to/from Dovestones's Edge for a clutch of fine routes from VS to E4 up to 17m high. Tiny Tim and Pedestal Corner are good VS 4cs, Ace of Spades a classic HVS 5a, and Five Day Chimney (E2 5c) is better than it sounds! THE route however is the 'Yosemite style' finger jamming crack of Bob Hope (E4 6a) - one of the best cracks in The Peak. The other two quarries have some loose rock but there are some good clean pitches to be found on solid rock amongst the grot and greenery if care is exercised. *****Rockfall above Titan's Groove has left alot of loose rock - 15.04.10****

Approach notes
From the car park at Dovestone's Reservoir (SE 014034)follow the track past the Yachting Clubhouse to Chew Brook Bridge. A track leads from here to the Dovestone's Quarries in about 20 min. *** update - Peregrines are nesting in Dovestone Main Quarry. The climbing restriction affects routes in the main central quarry. The restriction applies from 1st March to 30th June every year. Do not climb routes in this area during this period - those who have logged routes during the banned period are putting access at risk. The lower left and right quarries are unaffected by this ban.***

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Over the Moors (2012), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1The TeazerVS 4c  
2Olly's OptionS  
3Scoop RouteHVD 1
4Played OutVS 5a  
5TweedledeeHVS 5a * 
6TweedledumE2 6a **1
7PipersVS 5a  
8Black ChimneyVD  
9Birthday LaybackVS 4b, 4c *9
10Gatepost CrackE1 5b **13
11Mercury CrackS **1
12White Wall LeftVD 1
13Age ConcernE2 6a ** 
14White Wall DirectE1 5b *11
15White Wall RightVS 4c, -  
16Black Wall RouteE1 5b, 4c  
17Alumina CrackVS -, 4c *1
18Black CracksVS 5a, 4c 2
19Right-Hand FinishE1 5a, 5b *1
20Mottled GrooveS **20
21Direct RouteVS 4c, 4c *2
22Cave and TraverseVS 4c, 4b  
23Blanco DirectVS 4c, 4c *17
24Blanco SuperdirectE2 5c  
25MindbenderHVS 4c, 5a **10
26Daft BrassE5 6a **1
27Draft BassE1 5b *1
28Finger FlakeHVD - 4b -  
29Amen CornerE1 5a, 5b  
30Tottering GrooveVS 4b  
31Ultima RatioS 4a *6
3217 Year ItchVS 4c  
33Black and White TraverseHVD **7
34Black TongueVS 4b  
35Menage a TroisVS 4c  
36Joggled CrackVS 4c * 
37The JoggerHVS 5b  
38Nomad's ReturnVS 4c  
39Boffin WallHVS 5b  
40Rock of AgesHVS 5b  
41Left Hand VariantVS 4b, - 2
42Epitaph CornerVS 4b, 4c *4
43Oldham WakesE1 5b  
44Waterfall DirectHS 4b *3
45TightwalkE2 6a, 5a *1
46Parallel CracksHS 4b *6
47A-lu-teS ***17
48The Waterfall RouteVD ***36
49Feb.VS 5a 3
50SideshowE1 5b, 5b  
51Brass MonkeyHVS -, 5a 1
52GarnE1 -, 5b  
53Pinnacle GullyVS 4c 1
54King BillE2 5b  
55GangapoochiE1 4c, 5b **1
56Mike's MeanderVS 4b, 4b **8
57Gail's ProgressHVS 5a *1
58Jericho WallVS 4c 7
59Plumb-lineHVS 5a, 5a *2
60Initiation GrooveE1 4b, 5a 5
61The Whipper-inHVS 5a  
62The SliverHVS 5b  
63Too Tall for DwarfsE2 5b  
64Brown RouteVS 4c 2
65QuarrymasterE2 5c ** 
66Flutterbye GroovesE1 5b *1
67White SlabHVS 7
68Comeback (winter)V 6 * 
69SolsticeE2 5b  
70ComebackHVS 5a  
71Loose LeafVS 4c 1
72JackieHVS 5a  
73Unicorn DirectHVS 5a, 4b **4
74Little UnicornHVS 5a, 4b *1
75Tower Of BabelVS 4c **7
76Titan's GrooveVS 4b, 4c *4
77Swinging ChimneyVS 4c  
78Birch WallE4 6a  
79Funny Move GrooveE1 5a  
80Small GrooveVS 4b  
81ChlorophyllHVS 4b, 5a  
82Heather GrooveHVD *4
83SalamankaHVS 5a  
84The ButcherS 4b *3
85The Butcher's ApronHVS 5a *2
86Hey! JeannieE1 5b **5
87The BakerVS 5a 1
88The Candlestick-makerVS 4c  
89Slanting CrackHVS 4c  
90- Lower Right Quarry -M  
91Ace Of SpadesHVS 5a **19
92Tiny TimVS 4c **18
93Bob HopeE4 6a ***20
94Pedestal CornerMVS 4c **3
95Scuttle Buttlin'E7 6c ** 
96Five Day ChimneyE2 5c **3
98StumpyVD 1
99StretcherHVS 5b  
100The TempestHS  
101LaybackerMVS 4c  
102Happy WandererS  
103Corking CrackE1 5b  
106Evans AboveIII 3
107Central GullyI/II 9
108Tony's soloIV 3 **1
109Waterfall DirectIV 4 ***3
110Blanco DirectV 5 ** 
111Pinnacle CracksVI 6 *2
112Initiation GrooveV 6 ***3
113The Green Man DirectVII 7 **2
115The PillarE1 5b 1
116Evening CrackHVS 5b 1
117Gracie FieldsHVS 5a 1
118Titan's WallE1 5b 1
119Uranus CrackHVS 5b 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A complete guide (including the unstable parts of the central quarry) can be downloaded from the BMC website. I'd recommend taking a copy of this (or of the old edition) on any visits, as 2 or 3 routes have been unaccountably omitted from the Lower Left Quarry section of the new guide, and some of the descriptions have been shortened to the extent that you can't easily work out where the routes go.
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/13
The quarry is getting rather overgrown in places and some routes are being lost to the vegetation, shame really as its a great location.
Alex Thompson - 13/Apr/07