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These details were last updated on 11/May/2010

The Dovestones Quarries

Greater Manchester, ENGLAND

Climbs 111 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 320m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Three quarries set in the moor above Dovestones Reservoir. The smallest (right-hand quarry), is the least extensive, but the most solid. Worth dropping in on the way to/from Dovestones's Edge for a clutch of fine routes from VS to E4 up to 17m high. Ace of Spades, Tiny Tim, and Pedestal Corner are good VS 4cs, and Five Day Chimney (E2 5c) is better than it sounds! THE route however is the 'Yosemite style' finger jamming crack of Bob Hope (E4 6a) - one of the best cracks in The Peak. The other two quarries have some loose rock but there are some good clean pitches to be found on solid rock amongst the grot and greenery if care is exercised. *****Rockfall above Titan's Groove has left alot of loose rock - 15.04.10****

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1The TeazerVS 4c  
2Olly's OptionS  
3Scoop RouteHVD 1
4Played OutVS 5a  
5TweedledeeHVS 5a * 
6TweedledumE2 6a **1
7PipersVS 5a  
8Black ChimneyVD  
9Birthday LaybackVS 4b, 4c *3
10Gatepost CrackE1 5b **8
11Mercury CrackS ** 
12White Wall LeftVD 1
13White Wall DirectE1 5b *7
14White Wall RightVS 4c, -  
15Black Wall RouteE1 5b, 4c  
16Alumina CrackVS -, 4c *1
17Black CracksVS 5a, 4c 2
18Right-Hand FinishE1 5a, 5b *1
19Mottled GrooveS *7
20Direct RouteVS 4c, 4c *2
21Cave and TraverseVS 4c, 4b  
22Blanco DirectVS 4c, 4c *6
23Blanco SuperdirectE2 5c  
24MindbenderHVS 4c, 5a **6
25Daft BrassE5 6a **1
26Draft BassE1 5b * 
27Finger FlakeHVD - 4b -  
28Amen CornerE1 5a, 5b  
29Tottering GrooveVS 4b  
30Ultima RatioVD 3
3117 Year ItchVS 4c  
32Black and White TraverseHVD **4
33Black TongueVS 4b  
34Menage a TroisVS 4c  
35Joggled CrackVS 4c * 
36The JoggerHVS 5b  
37Nomad's ReturnVS 4c  
38Boffin WallHVS 5b  
39Rock of AgesHVS 5b  
40Left Hand VariantVS 4b, - 2
41Epitaph CornerVS 4b, 4c *4
42Oldham WakesE1 5b  
43Waterfall DirectHS 4b *2
44TightwalkE2 6a, 5a * 
45Parallel CracksHS 4b *3
46A-lu-teS ***12
47The Waterfall RouteVD ***26
48Feb.VS 5a 3
49SideshowE1 5b, 5b  
50Brass MonkeyHVS -, 5a 1
51GarnE1 -, 5b  
52Pinnacle GullyVS 4c  
53King BillE2 5b  
54GangapoochiE1 4c, 5b **1
55Mike's MeanderVS 4b, 4b **7
56Gail's ProgressHVS 5a *1
 Climb nameGradex
57Jericho WallVS 4c 6
58Plumb-lineHVS 5a, 5a *2
59Initiation GrooveE1 4b, 5a 3
60The Whipper-inHVS 5a  
61The SliverHVS 5b  
62Too Tall for DwarfsE2 5b  
63Brown RouteVS 4c 1
64QuarrymasterE2 5c ** 
65Flutterbye GroovesE1 5b *1
66White SlabHVS 6
67Comeback (winter)V 6 * 
68SolsticeE2 5b  
69ComebackHVS 5a  
70Loose LeafVS 4c 1
71JackieHVS 5a  
72Unicorn DirectHVS 5a, 4b **4
73Little UnicornHVS 5a, 4b *1
74Tower Of BabelVS 4c **7
75Titan's GrooveVS 4b, 4c *2
76Swinging ChimneyVS 4c  
77Birch WallE4 6a  
78Funny Move GrooveE1 5a  
79Small GrooveVS 4b  
80ChlorophyllHVS 4b, 5a  
81Heather GrooveHVD *3
82SalamankaHVS 5a  
83The ButcherS 4b *3
84The Butcher's ApronHVS 5a *2
85Hey! JeannieE1 5b **4
86The BakerVS 5a 1
87The Candlestick-makerVS 4c  
88Slanting CrackHVS 4c  
89- Lower Right Quarry -M  
90Ace Of SpadesHVS 5a **12
91Tiny TimVS **7
92Bob HopeE4 6a ***16
93Pedestal CornerMVS 4c **2
94Five Day ChimneyE2 5c **2
95DissapointmentVD  
96StumpyVD 1
97StretcherHVS 5b  
98The TempestHS  
99LaybackerMVS 4c  
100Happy WandererS  
101Corking CrackE1 5b  
102EnderHS  
 WINTER  
104Evans AboveIII 2
105Central GullyI/II 7
106Tony's soloIV 3 **1
107Waterfall DirectIV 4 ***2
108Blanco DirectV 5 ** 
109Pinnacle CracksVI 6 *2
110Initiation GrooveV 6 ***3
111The Green Man DirectVII 7 **2
112TrollenburgedIV  
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Access notes
From the car park at Dovestone's Reservoir (SE 014034)follow the track past the Yachting Clubhouse to Chew Brook Bridge. A track leads from here to the Dovestone's Quarries in about 20 min. *** update - Peregrines are nesting in Dovestone Main Quarry. The climbing restriction affects routes in the main central quarry. The restriction applies from 1st March 2010 to 30th June 2010. Do not climb routes in this area during this period. The lower left and right quarries are unaffected by this ban.***
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The quarry is getting rather overgrown in places and some routes are being lost to the vegetation, shame really as its a great location.
Alex Thompson - 13/Apr/07