Climbs 118
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 320m a.s.l
Faces SW

Little known classic © Phil Sneyd

Crag features

Three quarries set in the moor above Dovestones Reservoir. The smallest (right-hand quarry), is the least extensive, but the most solid. Worth dropping in on the way to/from Dovestones's Edge for a clutch of fine routes from VS to E4 up to 17m high. Tiny Tim and Pedestal Corner are good VS 4cs, Ace of Spades a classic HVS 5a, and Five Day Chimney (E2 5c) is better than it sounds! THE route however is the 'Yosemite style' finger jamming crack of Bob Hope (E4 6a) - one of the best cracks in The Peak. The other two quarries have some loose rock but there are some good clean pitches to be found on solid rock amongst the grot and greenery if care is exercised. *****Rockfall above Titan's Groove has left alot of loose rock - 15.04.10****

Approach notes

From the car park at Dovestone's Reservoir (SE 014034)follow the track past the Yachting Clubhouse to Chew Brook Bridge. A track leads from here to the Dovestone's Quarries in about 20 min. *** update - Peregrines are nesting in Dovestone Main Quarry. The climbing restriction affects routes in the main central quarry. The restriction applies from 1st March to 30th June every year. Do not climb routes in this area during this period - those who have logged routes during the banned period are putting access at risk. The lower left and right quarries are unaffected by this ban.***

Access Advice

No access issues reported. There was a large rockfall in May 2006, routes around Titan Groove and Tower of Bable have been effected. The area still contains loose rock - caution is strongly advised.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988)

Out of print:
A complete guide (including the unstable parts of the central quarry) can be downloaded from the BMC website. https://thebmc.co.uk/downloads/Rock%20Climbing/Guidebooks I'd recommend taking a copy of this (or of the old edition) on any visits, as 2 or 3 routes have been unaccountably omitted from the Lower Left Quarry section of the new guide, and some of the descriptions have been shortened to the extent that you can't easily work out where the routes go.
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/13
The quarry is getting rather overgrown in places and some routes are being lost to the vegetation, shame really as its a great location.
Alex Thompson - 13/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1The Teazer
-
VS 4c  
2Olly's Option
-
S  
3Scoop Route
-
HVD 1
4Played Out
-
VS 5a  
5Tweedledee
-
HVS 5a * 
6Tweedledum
-
E2 6a **1
7Pipers
-
VS 5a  
8Black Chimney
-
VD  
9Birthday LaybackVS 4b, 4c *9
10Gatepost CrackE1 5b **13
11Mercury Crack
-
S **1
12White Wall Left
-
VD 1
13Age Concern
-
E2 6a ** 
14White Wall DirectE1 5b *13
15White Wall Right
-
VS 4c, -  
16Black Wall Route
-
E1 5b, 4c  
17Alumina Crack
-
VS -, 4c *1
18Black Cracks
-
VS 5a, 4c 2
19Right-Hand Finish
-
E1 5a, 5b *1
20Mottled Groove
-
S **20
21Direct Route
-
VS 4c, 4c *2
22Cave and Traverse
-
VS 4c, 4b  
23Blanco DirectVS 4c, 4c *18
24Blanco SuperdirectE2 5c  
25MindbenderHVS 4c, 5a **11
26Daft BrassE5 6a **1
27Draft BassE1 5b *1
28Finger Flake
-
HVD - 4b -  
29Amen Corner
-
E1 5a, 5b  
30Tottering Groove
-
VS 4b  
31Ultima Ratio
-
S 4a *7
3217 Year Itch
-
VS 4c  
33Black and White Traverse
-
HVD **7
34Black Tongue
-
VS 4b  
35Menage a TroisVS 4c  
36Joggled Crack
-
VS 4c * 
37The JoggerHVS 5b  
38Nomad's ReturnVS 4c  
39Boffin WallHVS 5b  
40Rock of AgesHVS 5b  
41Left Hand Variant
-
VS 4b, - 2
42Epitaph Corner
-
VS 4b, 4c *4
43Oldham WakesE1 5b  
44Waterfall Direct
-
HS 4b *4
45Tightwalk
-
E2 6a, 5a *1
46Parallel Cracks
-
HS 4b *6
47A-lu-te
-
S ***17
48The Waterfall Route
-
VD ***36
49Feb.
-
VS 5a 4
50Sideshow
-
E1 5b, 5b  
51Brass Monkey
-
HVS -, 5a 1
52Garn
-
E1 -, 5b  
53Pinnacle Gully
-
VS 4c 1
54King BillE2 5b  
55Gangapoochi
-
E1 4c, 5b **1
56Mike's MeanderVS 4b, 4b **10
57Gail's Progress
-
HVS 5a *1
58Jericho Wall
-
VS 4c 7
59Plumb-line
-
HVS 5a, 5a *2
60Initiation Groove
-
E1 4b, 5a 5
61The Whipper-in
-
HVS 5a  
62The Sliver
-
HVS 5b  
63Too Tall for Dwarfs
-
E2 5b  
64Brown Route
-
VS 4c 2
65Quarrymaster
-
E2 5c ** 
66Flutterbye Grooves
-
E1 5b *1
67White Slab
-
HVS 8
68Comeback (winter)V 6 * 
69SolsticeE2 5b  
70Comeback
-
HVS 5a  
71Loose Leaf
-
VS 4c 2
72Jackie
-
HVS 5a  
73Unicorn DirectHVS 5a, 4b **5
74Little Unicorn
-
HVS 5a, 4b *1
75Tower Of Babel
-
VS 4c **8
76Titan's GrooveVS 4b, 4c *4
77Swinging Chimney
-
VS 4c  
78Birch Wall
-
E4 6a  
79Funny Move Groove
-
E1 5a  
80Small Groove
-
VS 4b  
81Chlorophyll
-
HVS 4b, 5a  
82Heather Groove
-
HVD *4
83Salamanka
-
HVS 5a  
84The Butcher
-
S 4b *3
85The Butcher's ApronHVS 5a *3
86Hey! JeannieE1 5b **5
87The Baker
-
VS 5a 1
88The Candlestick-maker
-
VS 4c  
89Slanting Crack
-
HVS 4c  
90- Lower Right Quarry -
-
M  
91Ace Of Spades
-
HVS 5a **29
92Tiny Tim
-
VS 4c **21
93Bob Hope
-
E4 6a ***20
94Pedestal Corner
-
MVS 4c **4
95Scuttle Buttlin'E7 6c ** 
96Five Day Chimney
-
E2 5c **3
97Dissapointment
-
VD  
98Stumpy
-
VD 1
99Stretcher
-
HVS 5b  
100The Tempest
-
HS  
101Laybacker
-
MVS 4c  
102Happy Wanderer
-
S  
103Corking Crack
-
E1 5b  
104Ender
-
HS  
 Winter 
106Evans Above
-
III 3
107Central Gully
-
I/II 10
108Tony's soloIV 3 **1
109Waterfall Direct
-
IV 4 ***3
110Blanco Direct
-
V 5 ** 
111Pinnacle CracksVI 6 *2
112Initiation GrooveV 6 ***3
113The Green Man DirectVII 7 **2
114Trollenburged
-
IV  
115The Pillar
-
E1 5b 1
116Evening Crack
-
HVS 5b 1
117Gracie Fields
-
HVS 5a 1
118Titan's Wall
-
E1 5b 1
119Uranus Crack
-
HVS 5b 1

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