The Dovestones Quarries

Climbs 118 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 320m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Three quarries set in the moor above Dovestones Reservoir. The smallest (right-hand quarry), is the least extensive, but the most solid. Worth dropping in on the way to/from Dovestones's Edge for a clutch of fine routes from VS to E4 up to 17m high. Tiny Tim and Pedestal Corner are good VS 4cs, Ace of Spades a classic HVS 5a, and Five Day Chimney (E2 5c) is better than it sounds! THE route however is the 'Yosemite style' finger jamming crack of Bob Hope (E4 6a) - one of the best cracks in The Peak. The other two quarries have some loose rock but there are some good clean pitches to be found on solid rock amongst the grot and greenery if care is exercised. *****Rockfall above Titan's Groove has left alot of loose rock - 15.04.10****

Access notes
From the car park at Dovestone's Reservoir (SE 014034)follow the track past the Yachting Clubhouse to Chew Brook Bridge. A track leads from here to the Dovestone's Quarries in about 20 min. *** update - Peregrines are nesting in Dovestone Main Quarry. The climbing restriction affects routes in the main central quarry. The restriction applies from 1st March to 30th June every year. Do not climb routes in this area during this period - those who have logged routes during the banned period are putting access at risk. The lower left and right quarries are unaffected by this ban.***
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Over the Moors (2012), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1The TeazerVS 4c
2Olly's OptionS
3Scoop RouteHVD
4Played OutVS 5a
5TweedledeeHVS 5a *
6TweedledumE2 6a **
7PipersVS 5a
8Black ChimneyVD
9Birthday LaybackVS 4b, 4c *
10Gatepost CrackE1 5b **
11Mercury CrackS **
12White Wall LeftVD
13Age ConcernE2 6a **
14White Wall DirectE1 5b *
15White Wall RightVS 4c, -
16Black Wall RouteE1 5b, 4c
17Alumina CrackVS -, 4c *
18Black CracksVS 5a, 4c
19Right-Hand FinishE1 5a, 5b *
20Mottled GrooveS **
21Direct RouteVS 4c, 4c *
22Cave and TraverseVS 4c, 4b
23Blanco DirectVS 4c, 4c *
24Blanco SuperdirectE2 5c
25MindbenderHVS 4c, 5a **
26Daft BrassE5 6a **
27Draft BassE1 5b *
28Finger FlakeHVD - 4b -
29Amen CornerE1 5a, 5b
30Tottering GrooveVS 4b
31Ultima RatioS 4a *
3217 Year ItchVS 4c
33Black and White TraverseHVD **
34Black TongueVS 4b
35Menage a TroisVS 4c
36Joggled CrackVS 4c *
37The JoggerHVS 5b
38Nomad's ReturnVS 4c
39Boffin WallHVS 5b
40Rock of AgesHVS 5b
41Left Hand VariantVS 4b, -
42Epitaph CornerVS 4b, 4c *
43Oldham WakesE1 5b
44Waterfall DirectHS 4b *
45TightwalkE2 6a, 5a *
46Parallel CracksHS 4b *
47A-lu-teS ***
48The Waterfall RouteVD ***
49Feb.VS 5a
50SideshowE1 5b, 5b
51Brass MonkeyHVS -, 5a
52GarnE1 -, 5b
53Pinnacle GullyVS 4c
54King BillE2 5b
55GangapoochiE1 4c, 5b **
56Mike's MeanderVS 4b, 4b **
57Gail's ProgressHVS 5a *
58Jericho WallVS 4c
59Plumb-lineHVS 5a, 5a *
60Initiation GrooveE1 4b, 5a
61The Whipper-inHVS 5a
62The SliverHVS 5b
63Too Tall for DwarfsE2 5b
64Brown RouteVS 4c
65QuarrymasterE2 5c **
66Flutterbye GroovesE1 5b *
67White SlabHVS
68Comeback (winter)V 6 *
69SolsticeE2 5b
70ComebackHVS 5a
71Loose LeafVS 4c
72JackieHVS 5a
73Unicorn DirectHVS 5a, 4b **
74Little UnicornHVS 5a, 4b *
75Tower Of BabelVS 4c **
76Titan's GrooveVS 4b, 4c *
77Swinging ChimneyVS 4c
78Birch WallE4 6a
79Funny Move GrooveE1 5a
80Small GrooveVS 4b
81ChlorophyllHVS 4b, 5a
82Heather GrooveHVD *
83SalamankaHVS 5a
84The ButcherS 4b *
85The Butcher's ApronHVS 5a *
86Hey! JeannieE1 5b **
87The BakerVS 5a
88The Candlestick-makerVS 4c
89Slanting CrackHVS 4c
90- Lower Right Quarry -M
91Ace Of SpadesHVS 5a **
92Tiny TimVS 4c **
93Bob HopeE4 6a ***
94Pedestal CornerMVS 4c **
95Scuttle Buttlin'E7 6c **
96Five Day ChimneyE2 5c **
97DissapointmentVD
98StumpyVD
99StretcherHVS 5b
100The TempestHS
101LaybackerMVS 4c
102Happy WandererS
103Corking CrackE1 5b
104EnderHS
 WINTER 
106Evans AboveIII
107Central GullyI/II
108Tony's soloIV 3 **
109Waterfall DirectIV 4 ***
110Blanco DirectV 5 **
111Pinnacle CracksVI 6 *
112Initiation GrooveV 6 ***
113The Green Man DirectVII 7 **
114TrollenburgedIV
115The Pillar E1 5b
116Evening Crack HVS 5b
117Gracie Fields HVS 5a
118Titan's Wall E1 5b
119Uranus Crack *HVS 5b
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ste_d

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A complete guide (including the unstable parts of the central quarry) can be downloaded from the BMC website. https://thebmc.co.uk/downloads/Rock%20Climbing/Guidebooks I'd recommend taking a copy of this (or of the old edition) on any visits, as 2 or 3 routes have been unaccountably omitted from the Lower Left Quarry section of the new guide, and some of the descriptions have been shortened to the extent that you can't easily work out where the routes go.
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/13
The quarry is getting rather overgrown in places and some routes are being lost to the vegetation, shame really as its a great location.
Alex Thompson - 13/Apr/07