Climbs 22
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 47m a.s.l
Faces S

Pete enjoying Planet Ride © simon wooster

Crag features

POTENTIALLY THE MOST CONVENIENT CRAG IN SOUTH DEVON

South facing, quick drying, just above sea level and non tidal, sheltered sun trap of weathered natural limestone. Free parking at the top of the crag, solid belay posts every 6 feet at the top of the routes. Glorious views of Torbay and the English Riviera. Now with easy and safe 3 min path access to the base of the crag. The routes are generally no higher than 22 m and with railings all the way along the top has great top rope potential. The crag will only improve with greater use and 2016 is a great opportunity to get this crag back into regular use and also new route potential.

However, this crag has been neglected for some time and has some vegatation and loose rock which is being cleared /cleaned  by keen locals. The base of the crag has also been neglected by the landowner and abused by fly tippers.

Approach notes

NEW ACCESS PATH TO CLIFF BASE 2016

There is now a new safe easy access path to get to the base of the crag. Head east from the car park following the steps and railings, where the steps end turn south towards the sea across a flattish area of cleared ground to a heavily coppiced sycamore stump at the edge of the cleared area. Follow the path steeply at first down the side of the sycamore then contour west and then up through Holm Oaks to reach the base of the cliff. The path is still very rough at present and cuts through very dense brambles/ thorns.

it is also possible to abseil in directly from the car park railings or take a very exposed traverse (not safe) in from the top edge of the cliff by hoping over the railings half way down the steps.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 MONOLITH 
2The Singing NunVS 4c  
3Loose KnickersMVS 4a  
4The Family WayVS 5a  
 THE RAVINE 
6Ash Tip Slab
-
S  
7Bin Bag
-
HS 4a  
8Waste Disposal
-
E1 5a  
9Hunt The Dump
-
E1 5b  
10Tin Can Alley
-
HVS 5a  
11Keep Britain Tidy
-
VS 4b  
12Football Graveyard
-
E1 5c  
 UPPER CLIFF 
14End CrackVD 1
15Imperial WallHVS 5a  
16Romeo & JulietVD 1
17RamshackleS 4a 9
18Project 1S 1
19Sabre ToothHS 4a 5
20Space and TimeE1 5b *1
21Planet RideHVS 5a 1
22Head OnE2 5b 1
23ThoughtformsE2 5b *1
24Brass Bound CrackHVS 5a 4
25Eubulus WilliamsVS 4c 6

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