Altitude 70m a.s.l
Serenity, Impossible Roof crag (not Roche Abbey) © Wood for Trees
A pleasant collection of steep compact pocketed dolomitic limestone buttresses up to 15m in height in sharing a valley with a ruined 16th century monastery. The best climbing is in the low E grades but the VS and the few HVSs are very worthwhile. The grades seem tough due to the pumpy nature of the rock. The bouldering is excellent though a bit polished. Most of the harder routes are usually top roped (abundant trees provide good anchors) despite the odd peg! A lot of the crag stays dry in the rain but it generally gets better weather than the Peak anyway. The guidebook is out of print, but you could look at http://www.dangeroussite.com/ [Paz 5/01]
From Maltby (come off M18 junction 1) go south east along the A634 following the brown signs to Roche Abbey. From the end of the cobbled lane (park here) turn right away from the Abbey and walk up the valley. The crags start immediately up on the right.
NOTE - climbing is technically forbidden by the landowner, but the situation is such that you are unlikely to be spotted let alone asked to leave. we climbed here 1/5/2015 and got kicked off after been spotted by security.
These crags do not have agreed access. The landowner has concerns with climbing on his land, and any publicity about the crags, or an increase in use, will result in an immediate and enforced ban. Quiet, low-key use is currently tolerated - please do not do anything to jepordize this. Be sensitive to the ecological features of the area and take all litter home with you.
2012 Update: access issues have resurfaced here this summer - please be aware that access is particularly sensitive at the moment so good behavoiur and remaining low key are vital.