Roche Abbey

Climbs 74 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 70m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

A pleasant collection of steep compact pocketed dolomitic limestone buttresses up to 15m in height in sharing a valley with a ruined 16th century monastery. The best climbing is in the low E grades but the VS and the few HVSs are very worthwhile. The grades seem tough due to the pumpy nature of the rock. The bouldering is excellent though a bit polished. Most of the harder routes are usually top roped (abundant trees provide good anchors) despite the odd peg! A lot of the crag stays dry in the rain but it generally gets better weather than the Peak anyway. The guidebook is out of print, but you could look at http://www.dangeroussite.com/ [Paz 5/01]

Access notes

From Maltby (come off M18 junction 1) go south east along the A634 following the brown signs to Roche Abbey. From the end of the cobbled lane (park here) turn right away from the Abbey and walk up the valley. The crags start immediately up on the right.

NOTE - climbing is technically forbidden by the landowner, but the situation is such that you are unlikely to be spotted let alone asked to leave. we climbed here 1/5/2015 and got kicked off after been spotted by security.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks

Out of print: Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 1 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 GYPSY BUTTRESS  
2Gildaf4+ 1
3Rigolettof6B 3
4Octoberf6A+ 2
5Strict Foref6B+ 2
6Scoopf5+ 2
7Flautistf6B+ 2
8The Waspf7A+ *3
9Crackerf4+ 2
10Sloperf6A 2
11Flakef5+ 2
12Lankyf6A 2
13Undercutf5+ 2
14The 5c Dynonone 5c 8
15Low Break Traversef6A 5c 8
16Passionf7A+ **8
17Crystalf6C 26
18Borgf6C 28
19Sharkes Toothf6C+ *11
 ABBEY BUTTRESS  
21The CrackE2 5c 2
22Golden ChaliceE2 5c 3
23The AreteE2 5c 2
24The QuestE3 6a 2
25Holy GrailE1 5b 2
 POTHOLE BUTTRESS  
27The FontHVS 5a 2
 CAR PARK BUTTRESS  
29Retrof6C *1
30Vintage Leftf6B+ **1
31Vintage Rightf6B 1
32Silent PrayerE3 5c 1
33PenitenceE3 5c 2
34Cold Water TreatmentE2 5c 2
35Vows of CelibacyE2 5c 2
36EvensongVS 4c 6
37CampanologistHVS 5b 2
38Bell RingerHVS 5a 4
 BEEF BUTTRESS  
40The Foolf7B+ **12
41Jazzy Jesterf7B **11
42The Jesterf7A+ 1
43Jazzf7B **3
44Justicef7A *14
45Fools Justicef8A 3
46Worse Habits Sit Startf6A+ *3
47Sundancef6C+ 12
48Bad Habits Sit Startf7A 12
49Bad Habits Traversef7A **5
50Tight Holef7A+ 7
51Rehabit Sit Startf6C **5
52Faith Left Handf7A+ **13
53Faith Right Handf7A 16
54Habitus sit startf6B **11
55Tony's undercut eliminatef7A+ *7
56Fallen Idolf7B+ **4
57Fallen idol sit startf7C+  
58HabitusE1 6a 3
59MatinsHVS 5a 1
60Shallow GraveE1 5b 1
61Holy SmokeVS 4c 1
62Dirty HabitsE3 6a *4
 IMPOSSIBLE ROOF  
64Dragon Flyf6C 7
65Tripitakaf7A+ 8
66Idrisf7B+ **5
67Black Cherryf7B **2
68Whale Boppf7B **1
696c+f6C+ **1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Many original climbs are missing. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207050 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207051 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207052
sting - 07/Jan/15
For anyone who has not been before (when leaves are on the trees) I think theyre difficult to find. Once you get to the carpark. The first 2 crags are adjacent to the carpark behind thick woodland. See the excellent http://www.dangeroussite.com for ace info. As noobs we found these crags too hard and prefered the bouldering after the end of the SSSI, down the track from the car park away from the abbey and over the road into the next woodland. It was a bit slippery being shaded but not too bad. Also, the car park was very busy and a flourescent jacket tried telling me i would have to reverse 3/4 mile up a twisty single lane track as there was no room in the carpark. i ignored him of course and found a parking space but be prepared! We will come back when we are more experienced, theres some great climbing to be had but as noobs maybe we should stick to Stanage Edge for now
northernspirit2001 - 05/Jun/07
Access is officially denied as it is a designated SSSI. The Earl of Scarborough recently died and English Heritage allegedly manage the place. More info on www.dangeroussite.com Keep a LOW profile and behave and you should be ok. As DP says the bouldering and climbing is pretty good, nothing really here for beginners. Enjoy this smashing little crag.. Dave Law
dangerous - 06/Apr/06
Guide books for Roche Abbey. The Crag appeared in BMC New climbs 1986. Pages 64 to 68.
Paul F - 31/Oct/05
Access problems currently at the moment, Lord Scarborough - English Heritage has installed a new security gate at the entrance to the driveway. This gate is electric opens at 6.30am and closes at 6.30pm. Currently there are signs stating no climbing due to double scientific interest.
steve Greig - 21/Feb/03
What a superb crag. Puts the Minus Ten wall to shame. The bouldering is shady in the summer and a suntrap in the winter - what more could you ask for. The classic \"Borg\" (English 6b), is maybe the best boulder problems of its grade on yorks/peak limestone (see photo http://www.peakgrit.ukclimbing.com/borg.jpg). Undisputed (as yet) as South Yorkshire\'s premier limestone bouldering venue.
Dave Parry - 31/Jan/02