Climbs 80
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 70m a.s.l
Faces SW

Serenity, Impossible Roof crag (not Roche Abbey) © Wood for Trees

Crag features

A pleasant collection of steep compact pocketed dolomitic limestone buttresses up to 15m in height in sharing a valley with a ruined 16th century monastery. The best climbing is in the low E grades but the VS and the few HVSs are very worthwhile. The grades seem tough due to the pumpy nature of the rock. The bouldering is excellent though a bit polished. Most of the harder routes are usually top roped (abundant trees provide good anchors) despite the odd peg! A lot of the crag stays dry in the rain but it generally gets better weather than the Peak anyway. The guidebook is out of print, but you could look at http://www.dangeroussite.com/ [Paz 5/01]

Approach notes

From Maltby (come off M18 junction 1) go south east along the A634 following the brown signs to Roche Abbey. From the end of the cobbled lane (park here) turn right away from the Abbey and walk up the valley. The crags start immediately up on the right.

NOTE - climbing is technically forbidden by the landowner, but the situation is such that you are unlikely to be spotted let alone asked to leave. we climbed here 1/5/2015 and got kicked off after been spotted by security.

Restricted Access

These crags do not have agreed access. The landowner has concerns with climbing on his land, and any publicity about the crags, or an increase in use, will result in an immediate and enforced ban. Quiet, low-key use is currently tolerated - please do not do anything to jepordize this. Be sensitive to the ecological features of the area and take all litter home with you.

2012 Update: access issues have resurfaced here this summer - please be aware that access is particularly sensitive at the moment so good behavoiur and remaining low key are vital.

Many original climbs are missing. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207050 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207051 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207052
sting - 07/Jan/15
For anyone who has not been before (when leaves are on the trees) I think theyre difficult to find. Once you get to the carpark. The first 2 crags are adjacent to the carpark behind thick woodland. See the excellent http://www.dangeroussite.com for ace info. As noobs we found these crags too hard and prefered the bouldering after the end of the SSSI, down the track from the car park away from the abbey and over the road into the next woodland. It was a bit slippery being shaded but not too bad. Also, the car park was very busy and a flourescent jacket tried telling me i would have to reverse 3/4 mile up a twisty single lane track as there was no room in the carpark. i ignored him of course and found a parking space but be prepared! We will come back when we are more experienced, theres some great climbing to be had but as noobs maybe we should stick to Stanage Edge for now
northernspirit2001 - 05/Jun/07
Access is officially denied as it is a designated SSSI. The Earl of Scarborough recently died and English Heritage allegedly manage the place. More info on www.dangeroussite.com Keep a LOW profile and behave and you should be ok. As DP says the bouldering and climbing is pretty good, nothing really here for beginners. Enjoy this smashing little crag.. Dave Law
dangerous - 06/Apr/06
Guide books for Roche Abbey. The Crag appeared in BMC New climbs 1986. Pages 64 to 68.
Paul F - 31/Oct/05
Access problems currently at the moment, Lord Scarborough - English Heritage has installed a new security gate at the entrance to the driveway. This gate is electric opens at 6.30am and closes at 6.30pm. Currently there are signs stating no climbing due to double scientific interest.
steve Greig - 21/Feb/03
What a superb crag. Puts the Minus Ten wall to shame. The bouldering is shady in the summer and a suntrap in the winter - what more could you ask for. The classic \"Borg\" (English 6b), is maybe the best boulder problems of its grade on yorks/peak limestone (see photo http://www.peakgrit.ukclimbing.com/borg.jpg). Undisputed (as yet) as South Yorkshire\'s premier limestone bouldering venue.
Dave Parry - 31/Jan/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Gypsy Buttress 
2Gildaf4+ 3
3Rigolettof6B 5
4Octoberf6A+ 3
5Strict Foref6B+ 2
6Scoopf5+ 3
7Flautistf6B+ 2
8The Waspf7A+ *4
9Crackerf4+ 3
10Sloperf6A 2
11Flakef5+ 3
12Lankyf6A 3
13Undercutf5+ 3
14The 5c Dynonone 5c 8
15Low Break Traversef6A 10
16Passionf7A+ **10
17Crystalf6C 36
18Borgf6C 37
19Sharkes Tooth
-
f6C+ *16
 Abbey Buttress 
21The Crack
-
E2 5c 2
22Golden Chalice
-
E2 5c 3
23The Arete
-
E2 5c 2
24The Quest
-
E3 6a 2
25Holy Grail
-
E1 5b 2
 Pothole buttress 
27The Font
-
HVS 5a 2
 Car Park Buttress 
29Retrof6C *1
30Vintage Leftf6B+ **1
31Vintage Rightf6B 1
32Silent Prayer
-
E3 5c 1
33Penitence
-
E3 5c 2
34Cold Water Treatment
-
E2 5c 2
35Vows of Celibacy
-
E2 5c 2
36Evensong
-
VS 4c 6
37Campanologist
-
HVS 5b 2
38Bell Ringer
-
HVS 5a 4
 Beef Buttress 
40The Foolf7B+ **13
41Jazzy Jesterf7B **13
42The Jesterf7A+ 4
43Jazzf7B **3
44Justicef7A *20
45Fools Justicef8A 3
46Worse Habits Sit Startf6A+ *6
47Sundancef6C+ **12
48Bad Habits Sit Startf7A ***14
49Bad Habits Traversef7A **6
50Addictionf7C+ **1
51Speedwayf7C+ *** 
52Speedway Sit Startf8A+ * 
53Tight Holef7A+ 9
54Rehabit Sit Startf6C **10
55The Abbey Habit Start 6a+f6A+  
56Faith Left Handf7A+ **15
57Faith Right Handf7A 19
58Habitus sit startf6B **12
59Tony's undercut eliminatef7A+ *9
60Fallen Idolf7B+ **4
61Fallen idol sit startf7C+  
62Habitus
-
E1 6a 3
63Matins
-
HVS 5a 1
64Shallow Grave
-
E1 5b 1
65Holy Smoke
-
VS 4c 1
66Dirty Habits
-
E3 6a *4
 Impossible Roof 
686bf6B 1
696b+ Aretef6B+ 1
70Tripitakaf7A+ 12
71Tripitaka Extensionf7B+ *** 
72Dragon Flyf6C 10
73Idrisf7B+ **5
74Surrender to Strangenessf8B *** 
75Serenityf8B *** 
76Serenataonf8C  
77Serendipityf8B+ *** 
78Apachef8A+ *** 
79Into the blackf7C 1
80Dark Therapyf8A ** 
81Light Therapyf7C+ ** 
82Black Cherryf7B **3
83Whale Boppf7B **1
846c+f6C+ **1
85The wasp dyno *f7A 2
86Thug *
-
f6A 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Elliot Shiel