Climbs 27
Rocktype Shale

Faces S

Bouldering in Downderry Cave © salamandra

Crag features

The Wave is the best known problem. This awesome wave of shale/quartz gives a 10 metre stamina traverse at V6. Sand height varies. As well as the butch stuff there is tenuous smearing on the first boulders and for the trad climber prepared for a walk there are some routes at the far end of the beach.

Approach notes

Park in Downderry and head down public footpath next to school onto beach. Head East along Beach over several rocky spurs for approx. 500 metres to crag. Alternatively drop down to the beach at the hairpin bend. Some non-tidal bouldering; the main bouldering is tidal, so the best time to go is 3 hours after high tide thus giving you 6 hours of climbing; ideal low tide time is 3pm-6pm due to aspect.

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Climbs at this crag

 The Promontory 
12The Wave
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V6 ***3
13Link between Wave and Undercut
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V0+ 2
14The Undercut
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V6 2
15Up problem atLH end of Undercut
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V2  
16The Promontory
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V3 ** 
 The Cave 
18The Cave
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V2 **2
19The Cave Both WaysV3 **2
20LH Crack
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V8  
21RH Crack
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V4 1
 The Long stone 
23La De dah
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S 4b 1
24The Fang Direct
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E2 5b 1
25Fang Arete
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E3 5b 1
26Long Rock Climb
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VD 1
 Cargloth Cliffs 
28Shlong
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HS 4b 1
29Infelation
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HVS 5a 1
30The Queen of Rock
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S 4a 1
31Left Feeling a Little Queer
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HS 4b 1

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