Downderry Beach Cornwall, ENGLAND
Climbs 27 – Rocktype Shale – Altitude ? – Faces S
The Wave is the best known problem. This awesome wave of shale/quartz gives a 10 metre stamina traverse at V6. Sand height varies. As well as the butch stuff there is tenuous smearing on the first boulders and for the trad climber prepared for a walk there are some routes at the far end of the beach.
Park in Downderry and head down public footpath next to school onto beach. Head East along Beach over several rocky spurs for approx. 500 metres to crag. Alternatively drop down to the beach at the hairpin bend. Some non-tidal bouldering; the main bouldering is tidal, so the best time to go is 3 hours after high tide thus giving you 6 hours of climbing; ideal low tide time is 3pm-6pm due to aspect.
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Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998)
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