Downderry Beach

Climbs 27 – Rocktype Shale – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
The Wave is the best known problem. This awesome wave of shale/quartz gives a 10 metre stamina traverse at V6. Sand height varies. As well as the butch stuff there is tenuous smearing on the first boulders and for the trad climber prepared for a walk there are some routes at the far end of the beach.

Approach notes
Park in Downderry and head down public footpath next to school onto beach. Head East along Beach over several rocky spurs for approx. 500 metres to crag. Alternatively drop down to the beach at the hairpin bend. Some non-tidal bouldering; the main bouldering is tidal, so the best time to go is 3 hours after high tide thus giving you 6 hours of climbing; ideal low tide time is 3pm-6pm due to aspect.

Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Flat Top TraverseV2 5c *2
3Cornflake AreteV6 6b+ 2
4Special KV3 6a 1
5Slippery SlabV3 5c/6a 2
6Vague GrooveV1 5b 4
7SidepullV2 5c 2
8Left Side of Right AreteV0 5a 3
9Right Side of Right AreteV0 4a 4
10Buried TreasureV3 6a  
12The WaveV6 6a/b ***2
13Link between Wave and UndercutV0+ 5a 1
14The UndercutV6 6b 1
15Up problem atLH end of UndercutV2 5c  
16The PromontoryV3 5c ** 
18The CaveV2 5c **1
19The Cave Both WaysV3 5c **1
20LH CrackV8 6c  
21RH CrackV4 6a  
23La De dahS 4b  
24The Fang DirectE2 5b  
25Fang AreteE3 5b  
26Long Rock ClimbVD  
28ShlongHS 4b  
29InfelationHVS 5a  
30The Queen of RockS 4a  
31Left Feeling a Little QueerHS 4b  
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