Climbs 27
Rocktype Shale

Faces S

Bouldering in Downderry Cave © salamandra

Crag features

The Wave is the best known problem. This awesome wave of shale/quartz gives a 10 metre stamina traverse at V6. Sand height varies. As well as the butch stuff there is tenuous smearing on the first boulders and for the trad climber prepared for a walk there are some routes at the far end of the beach.

Approach notes

Park in Downderry and head down public footpath next to school onto beach. Head East along Beach over several rocky spurs for approx. 500 metres to crag. Alternatively drop down to the beach at the hairpin bend. Some non-tidal bouldering; the main bouldering is tidal, so the best time to go is 3 hours after high tide thus giving you 6 hours of climbing; ideal low tide time is 3pm-6pm due to aspect.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Flat Top Traversef5+ *2
 The First Boulders 
3Cornflake Aretef7A 2
4Special Kf6A 1
5Slippery Slabf6A 3
6Vague Groovef5 5
7Sidepullf5+ 2
8Left Side of Right Aretef4 4
9Right Side of Right Aretef4 4
10Buried Treasuref6A  
 The Promontory 
12The Wave
f7A ***2
13Link between Wave and Undercut
f4+ 1
14The Undercut
f7A 1
15Up problem atLH end of Undercut
16The Promontory
f6A ** 
 The Cave 
18The Cave
f5+ **1
19The Cave Both Waysf6A **1
20LH Crack
21RH Crack
 The Long stone 
23La De dah
S 4b  
24The Fang Direct
E2 5b  
25Fang Arete
E3 5b  
26Long Rock Climb
 Cargloth Cliffs 
HS 4b  
HVS 5a  
30The Queen of Rock
S 4a  
31Left Feeling a Little Queer
HS 4b  

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