Downderry Beach

Climbs 27 – Rocktype Shale – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
The Wave is the best known problem. This awesome wave of shale/quartz gives a 10 metre stamina traverse at V6. Sand height varies. As well as the butch stuff there is tenuous smearing on the first boulders and for the trad climber prepared for a walk there are some routes at the far end of the beach.

Access notes
Park in Downderry and head down public footpath next to school onto beach. Head East along Beach over several rocky spurs for approx. 500 metres to crag. Alternatively drop down to the beach at the hairpin bend. Some non-tidal bouldering; the main bouldering is tidal, so the best time to go is 3 hours after high tide thus giving you 6 hours of climbing; ideal low tide time is 3pm-6pm due to aspect.

Guidebooks
Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Flat Top TraverseV2 5c *
 THE FIRST BOULDERS 
3Cornflake AreteV6 6b+
4Special KV3 6a
5Slippery SlabV3 5c/6a
6Vague GrooveV1 5b
7SidepullV2 5c
8Left Side of Right AreteV0 5a
9Right Side of Right AreteV0 4a
10Buried TreasureV3 6a
 THE PROMONTORY 
12The WaveV6 6a/b ***
13Link between Wave and UndercutV0+ 5a
14The UndercutV6 6b
15Up problem atLH end of UndercutV2 5c
16The PromontoryV3 5c **
 THE CAVE 
18The CaveV2 5c **
19The Cave Both WaysV3 5c **
20LH CrackV8 6c
21RH CrackV4 6a
 THE LONG STONE 
23La De dahS 4b
24The Fang DirectE2 5b
25Fang AreteE3 5b
26Long Rock ClimbVD
 CARGLOTH CLIFFS 
28ShlongHS 4b
29InfelationHVS 5a
30The Queen of RockS 4a
31Left Feeling a Little QueerHS 4b
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These details were last updated on 17/May/2013
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