Cullen Caves

Climbs 30 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
No-tidal, steep bouldering throughout several caves. Still some steep potential. There are a number of sport projects as well, although the bolts have corroded and are in need of replacing.

The rock can be a little chossy in places, primarily due to the lack of traffic, but the vast majority of problems are on good rock and of a high quality!

The landings are mostly excellent, although care must be taken as there may be broken glass/debris scattered under problems courtesy of the local yobs! Most of this has now been removed but best keep an eye out. Mats are advisable.

An excellent topo is available at http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Cullen_Caves

Access notes
From Cullen: The caves are a five minutes walk from the beach at Cullen which has plenty of car parking. Walk up the beach past the golf course and join the path, the caves are obvious on the left.

From Portknockie: Park at the playpark and cross the fields to a sign on the cliff where there are concrete steps which will take you to the caves past Jennys Well.

Guidebooks
Bouldering in Scotland (2008)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 UNDERWORLD AREA 
2Birdshitf7A **
3Slap My Beach Upf7A **
4Scotts Nosef7A+ **
5The Dentistf7B
6Underworldf7B+ ***
7Cerberusf7C **
8Edge Of The Worldf6B+ *
 ST DUANE'S DEN 
10Layback Crackf6A+
11Double Pinch Traversef6B+
12Twisterf7B+ ***
13Duane's World Sit Startf7A+ **
14St Duane's Directf7A+ **
15Duane's Worldf7A *
16Reverse Traversef6B+
 SPORTS CAVE 
18Silly Soupf6A
19Warm Up Traversef5+
20Low Warm Up Traversef6A
21Cullen Skankf7A ***
22Fishy Fingersf6A+
23Problem 4f6B
24Problem 5 Left Handf6C *
25Problem 5f6B
26To The Sea!f7A **
 ST STEVEN'S CAVE 
28Kill All Hippiesf6B *
29Flower Powerf6C+ ***
30The Thornf7A *
31The Rosef7B **
32Welcome!f6B
33Protected By Rosesf6C
34St Joseph Direct *f7B **
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Callum_Johnson

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These details were last updated on 23/Apr/2013
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