Cullen Caves

Climbs 30 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
No-tidal, steep bouldering throughout several caves. Still some steep potential. There are a number of sport projects as well, although the bolts have corroded and are in need of replacing.

The rock can be a little chossy in places, primarily due to the lack of traffic, but the vast majority of problems are on good rock and of a high quality!

The landings are mostly excellent, although care must be taken as there may be broken glass/debris scattered under problems courtesy of the local yobs! Most of this has now been removed but best keep an eye out. Mats are advisable.

An excellent topo is available at http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Cullen_Caves

Approach notes
From Cullen: The caves are a five minutes walk from the beach at Cullen which has plenty of car parking. Walk up the beach past the golf course and join the path, the caves are obvious on the left.

From Portknockie: Park at the playpark and cross the fields to a sign on the cliff where there are concrete steps which will take you to the caves past Jennys Well.

Guidebooks

Out of print: Bouldering in Scotland (2008)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 UNDERWORLD AREA  
2Birdshitf7A **2
3Slap My Beach Upf7A **7
4Scotts Nosef7A+ ** 
5The Dentistf7B  
6Underworldf7B+ ***1
7Cerberusf7C ** 
8Edge Of The Worldf6B+ *4
 ST DUANE'S DEN  
10Layback Crackf6A+ 2
11Double Pinch Traversef6B+ 2
12Twisterf7B+ ***1
13Duane's World Sit Startf7A+ ** 
14St Duane's Directf7A+ **2
15Duane's Worldf7A *7
16St Joseph Direct *f7B **1
17Reverse Traversef6B+  
 SPORTS CAVE  
19Silly Soupf6A 1
20Warm Up Traversef5+ 9
21Low Warm Up Traversef6A 9
22Cullen Skankf7A ***7
23Fishy Fingersf6A+ 8
24Problem 4f6B 10
25Problem 5 Left Handf6C *6
26Problem 5f6B 5
27To The Sea!f7A **1
 ST STEVEN'S CAVE  
29Kill All Hippiesf6B *5
30Flower Powerf6C+ ***2
31The Thornf7A * 
32The Rosef7B **1
33Welcome!f6B 3
34Protected By Rosesf6C  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Callum_Johnson

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