Climbs 183
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 973m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

Very little known outside of Allier and certainly beyond the Auvergne, the Rocher Saint Vincent offers absolutely tons of tremendous routes for lower and middle grade climbers (F2+ to F7a). Most climbs are in the 20m range, but some stretch to 70m (twin ropes are not necessary however as regular lower offs or escapes are placed). The Rocher St Vincent itself is principally a magnificent pillar of volcanic rock jutting upwards from a high forested hillside ridge, but the climbing incorporates a number of the hillside's subsidury buttresses. With many of these buttresses offering 360 degree climbing the hot sun can be avoided or climbed in dependent on desire for a tan and the forest also offers shade. The routes are generally very quick drying and the bolts and lower-offs well maintained.

Approach notes

No restrictions.

Situated within 15 miles of the Spa town of Vichy (of mint and puppet World War II government fame). The best approach is to head from Vichy and reach the village of Ferrieres sur Sichon (Boloungerie, Restaurant, post office, campsite, and tourist information which sells climbing guide for whole region and maps). From here take the D995 south east for roughly 10km. The Rocher St Vincent is signposted by a brown sign left, take this and reach a small car park. The main Rocher is sign posted and involves a 5minute walk, while the Pierre Fendue buttresses are 200m further up the road from the car park.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Rocher Principal 
 Petite Rocher 
 Dalle Grise 
 Castor 
 Pollux 
 Rocher Greffier 
 Rocher de L'Enceinte 
 Pierre Fendue (Rocher de Gauche) 
9Qui s'y frotte, s'y pique
-
3+ 1
10Toujours plus
-
6b  
11Tout Se complique
-
6a  
12La Colle en Jette5c  
13Kriquiti
-
5c  
14La Lionne Elle
-
5c  
15Bidule Buck
-
5c  
16Couche-culotte
-
4c 1
17Ariba
-
4a 1
18Blaise
-
3+ 1
19Object Culte
-
6a  
20Cloporte
-
4c 1
21Quel Bouleau
-
6b  
22Lune de fiel
-
5a  
23Sassage du Soir
-
3 1
24Bingo
-
4a 1
25Haut les mains3 2
26Dolce Vita4c **2
27Tintin au bidet
-
3+ 2
28Crunch
-
4c 1
29Sika Dur
-
5a 2
 Pierre Fendue (Rocher de Droite) 
31L'alpine
-
3+ 1
32P'tit Pere
-
3+ 1
33P'tit Muscle
-
4a 1
34Bourach Bouif
-
4c  
35Burnes' One
-
5a  
36La genie de alpages
-
5a  
37Rock and pof
-
6a  
38La diedre gris3 **1
39Digitale
-
5c  
40Propaganda
-
4c 1
41Prends des gants4c ** 
42La TraditionalHVS 5a ***1
43Oh no, pas la
-
6b  
44Syllogisme
-
5a  
45NRJ
-
5c  
46Mimi Cracra
-
4c  
47Ignitron
-
5c  
48Legitme Violence
-
6a+  
49Souffre Douleur
-
6a  
50La lave vaisselle
-
6a  
51Club Barbie
-
4c 1

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