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These details were last updated on 02/Jul/2010

Rocher Saint Vincent

Auvergne, FRANCE

Climbs 183 – Rocktype Andesite – Altitude 973m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Very little known outside of Allier and certainly beyond the Auvergne, the Rocher Saint Vincent offers absolutely tons of tremendous routes for lower and middle grade climbers (F2+ to F7a). Most climbs are in the 20m range, but some stretch to 70m (twin ropes are not necessary however as regular lower offs or escapes are placed). The Rocher St Vincent itself is principally a magnificent pillar of volcanic rock jutting upwards from a high forested hillside ridge, but the climbing incorporates a number of the hillside's subsidury buttresses. With many of these buttresses offering 360 degree climbing the hot sun can be avoided or climbed in dependent on desire for a tan and the forest also offers shade. The routes are generally very quick drying and the bolts and lower-offs well maintained.

Guidebooks
Top' Allier (2009)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 ROCHER PRINCIPAL  
 PETITE ROCHER  
 DALLE GRISE  
 CASTOR  
 POLLUX  
 ROCHER GREFFIER  
 ROCHER DE L'ENCEINTE  
 PIERRE FENDUE (ROCHER DE GAUCHE)  
9Qui s'y frotte, s'y pique3+ 1
10Toujours plus6b  
11Tout Se complique6a  
12La Colle en Jette5+  
13Kriquiti5+  
14La Lionne Elle5+  
15Bidule Buck5+  
16Couche-culotte4+ 1
17Ariba4 1
18Blaise3+ 1
19Object Culte6a  
20Cloporte4+ 1
21Quel Bouleau6b  
22Lune de fiel5  
23Sassage du Soir3 1
24Bingo4 1
25Haut les mains3 2
26Dolce Vita4+ **2
 Climb nameGradex
27Tintin au bidet3+ 2
28Crunch4+ 1
29Sika Dur5 2
 PIERRE FENDUE (ROCHER DE DROITE)  
31L'alpine3+ 1
32P'tit Pere3+ 1
33P'tit Muscle4 1
34Bourach Bouif4+  
35Burnes' One5  
36La genie de alpages5  
37Rock and pof6a  
38La diedre gris3 **1
39Digitale5+  
40Propaganda4+ 1
41Prends des gants4+ ** 
42La TraditionalHVS 5a ***1
43Oh no, pas la6b  
44Syllogisme5  
45NRJ5+  
46Mimi Cracra4+  
47Ignitron5+  
48Legitme Violence6a+  
49Souffre Douleur6a  
50La lave vaisselle6a  
51Club Barbie4+ 1
Access notes
No restrictions.

Situated within 15 miles of the Spa town of Vichy (of mint and puppet World War II government fame). The best approach is to head from Vichy and reach the village of Ferrieres sur Sichon (Boloungerie, Restaurant, post office, campsite, and tourist information which sells climbing guide for whole region and maps). From here take the D995 south east for roughly 10km. The Rocher St Vincent is signposted by a brown sign left, take this and reach a small car park. The main Rocher is sign posted and involves a 5minute walk, while the Pierre Fendue buttresses are 200m further up the road from the car park.

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