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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SK 099985 (OS Landranger #110)

Shining Clough Rocks

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 100 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 460m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Probably the best crag on Bleaklow made of the finest moorland grit. A collection of buttress up to 20m high situated on the edge of high land. Exposed to the elements, cold, and green most of the year, it comes into its own on the hottest days of summer. Then a delight waits in store. Atherton Brothers (S), Phoenix Climb (VS 4c) or Pisa Superdirect (HVS 5a) are great, but more outstanding are East Rib (HVS 5a exposed!), Saucius Digitallis (E4 6b), well-protected, desperate finger jamming and the incredible Bloodrush (E6 6b) up the rib to the left of Saucius.

Weather forecast

Today	Sat	Sun	Mon	Tue

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Over the Moors (2012), Western Grit (2009), On Peak Rock (2003), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990),
Out of print: Western Grit (2003)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	---------------UPPER TIER (MAIN EDGE)---------------
	EAST BUTTRESS
3	Orang Arete	VS 4b	6
4	Grape Escape	E2 5c *
5	Monkey Puzzle	VS 4c *	22
6	East Rib	HVS 5a ***	102
7	East Rib Direct	E4 6a *	1
8	Icon	HVS 5a *	2
9	Green Crack	S 4a *	1
10	East Chimney	D	6
11	Atherton Brothers	S 4a **	87
12	Phoenix Climb	VS 4c ***	159
13	Via Principia	S 4a **	115
14	Subsidiary Chimney	S 4a	1
15	Ave	VS 4c *	14
16	Powerplay	E2 6a
17	Little Red Pig	HVS 5b	1
18	Vanishing Groove	S 4a	1
19	Birthday Chimney	VD	2
20	Short Crack	VS 4c
21	Satyr	E4 5c *
22	Solstice	HVS 5a
23	Some Product	E4 6a *
24	Bloodrush	E6 6b ***	3
25	Saucius Digitalis	E4 6a ***	6
26	Nagger's Delight	HVS 5a *	2
27	Naaden	E1 5b **	20
28	Yerth	E2 5c *	10
29	Cistern Groove	VD
	PISA BUTTRESS
31	Pisa	VS 4c *	6
32	Galileo	E1 5b **	56
33	Pisa Direct	VS 4c **	21
34	Pisa Super Direct	HVS 5a ***	124
35	Stable Cracks	VS 4b **	52
36	Plastic Saddle	E1 5c	2
37	Typists' Chimney	D	5
38	Unicorn Cracks	HS 4b	4
39	Trungel Crack	HVS 5a *	2
40	The Big Wall	E3 6a ***	13
41	Holm Moss	E1 5b *	8
42	Gremlin Groove	VS 4c **	17
43	Gremlin Wall	HVS 5a
44	Artifact	VS 4c *	3
	PINNACLE
46	Ordinary Route	M	14
47	Obverse Route	VD	1
48	East Face	S 4a	1
49	Pinnacle Face	VS 4c *	11
50	Pinnacle Crack	HS 4b
	THE MAIN EDGE (RIGHT OF PINNACLE)
52	Phantom	E3 6a
53	Nimrod	S 4a	4

	Climb name	Grade	x

54	Free Fall	E3 5c *
55	Stag Party	VD
56	Ladies Day	S 4a *	3
57	Ladies' Day Direct	HVS 5a
58	Middleton Groove	HS 4b	1
59	Valhalla Crack	VS 4c *
60	Crack and Chimney	VD
61	Sampson	E3 6b **
62	Original Route	VD *	6
63	West Ridge	HVS 5a *	1
64	West Wall Route 1	S 4b *	5
65	West Wall Route 2	VD	2
66	Finale	S 4a	1
67	Encore	S 4a	1
	---------------LOWER TIER---------------
69	Shandy	VD	4
70	Lager Lout	HVS 5a
71	Pint of Beer	S 4b *	2
72	Omelette Crack	D	1
73	The Egg Bowl	VD	1
74	The Vice	VD	10
75	Main Wall Climb	VD	18
76	Captain Zep	HVS 5a *	4
77	Dirtier Groove	D	6
78	The Rainbow	D *	25
79	Dirty Groove	D	9
	THE PLAYGROUND
81	Left Route	S 4a	5
82	Central Route	HVS 5a *	5
83	Right Route	VD	9
84	Nine Holes Slab	HVD
85	Short Slab	VS 5a	4
86	Centre-Forward	HVS 5a	3
87	C30, C60, C90, Go!	E1 5b	5
88	Goblin's Arete	HVS 5a
89	Gnome's Rib	HVS 5c
90	Jigsaw Wall	VD
91	Jigsaw Ridge	VS 4c	1
92	Jigsaw Chimney	HVD
93	Harry's Hiatus	VS 5a
94	Delectable Rib	VS 5a
95	Choss Crack	D
96	Chossier Crack	VD
97	Birthday Corner	VS 4c	1
98	S.A.S.	HVS 5b	1
99	Shining Clough	III **	22
100	Shining Clough Icefall	II *
101	The Big Wall Gully	II	4
102	Cover Me In Chocolate and Feed Me to the Lesbians *	E6 6c **
103	Teufel Cracks *	D	1
104	Flake Crack *	VD	1
105	Toadstool Crack *	VS 4c	1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Ellis Brigham Mountain Sports
Glass Houghton, WEST YORKSHIRE
www.ellis-brigham.com

Advertise here

Access notes
There have been problems using the approach described in the old BMC guidebook. The approach described in Western Grit is correct.

WESTERN GRIT APPROACH. Go through the 5 bar gate, turn left and follow the tarmaced track for about a mile until a sign points rightwards to Open Country. Follow the track (vague in places) to the cliff.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dan Lane