Climbs 115
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 460m a.s.l
Faces N

Big exposure on East Rib! © Alex the Alex

Crag features

Probably the best crag on Bleaklow made of the finest moorland grit. A collection of buttress up to 20m high situated on the edge of high land. Exposed to the elements, cold, and green most of the year, it comes into its own on the hottest days of summer. Then a delight waits in store. Atherton Brothers (S), Phoenix Climb (VS 4c) or Pisa Superdirect (HVS 5a) are great, but more outstanding are East Rib (HVS 5a exposed!), Saucius Digitallis (E4 6b), well-protected, desperate finger jamming and the incredible Bloodrush (E6 6b) up the rib to the left of Saucius.

Approach notes

There have been problems using the approach described in the old BMC guidebook. The approach described in Western Grit is correct.
WESTERN GRIT APPROACH. Go through the 5 bar gate, turn left and follow the tarmaced track for about a mile until a sign points rightwards to Open Country. Follow the track (vague in places) to the cliff.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Great crag on a hot summer evening. In June the top of the main wall catches the sun from about 5pm then it covers the rest of the wall by late evening. The approach to the crag is one of the more beautiful routes if a little overgrown and adventurous.
samnbuk - 05/Jun/16
This crag catches the late evening sun in summer and Friends are very useful!
Tom, UKC News Editor - 21/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Playground 
2Nine Holes Slab
-
HVD 3
3Short Slab
-
VS 5a 12
4Centre-Forward
-
HVS 5a 9
5C30, C60, C90, Go!
-
E1 5b 12
6Goblin's Arete
-
HVS 5a 1
7Gnome's Rib
-
HVS 5c  
8Jigsaw Wall
-
VD  
9Jigsaw Ridge
-
VS 4c 2
10Jigsaw Chimney
-
HVD  
11Harry's Hiatus
-
VS 5a  
12Delectable Rib
-
VS 5a  
13Choss Crack
-
D  
14Chossier Crack
-
VD  
15Birthday Corner
-
VS 4c 1
16S.A.S.
-
HVS 5b 1
 ---------------upper tier (main edge)--------------- 
 East Buttress 
19Orang AreteVS 4b 9
20Grape EscapeE2 5c *1
21Monkey PuzzleVS 4c *32
22East RibHVS 5a ***189
23East Rib DirectE4 6a *1
24IconHVS 5a *4
25Green CrackS 4a *2
26East Chimney
-
D 7
27Atherton BrothersS 4a **136
28Phoenix ClimbVS 4c ***283
29Flaming EliminateHVS 5a * 
30AnniversaryHVS 5a  
31Via PrincipiaS 4a **186
32Subsidiary ChimneyS 4a 5
33AveVS 4c *17
34PowerplayE2 6a  
35Little Red PigHVS 5b 1
36Vanishing GrooveS 4a 1
37Birthday ChimneyVD 3
38Short CrackVS 4c  
39SatyrE4 5c * 
40SolsticeHVS 5a  
41Some ProductE4 6a * 
42BloodrushE6 6b ***4
43Saucius DigitalisE4 6a ***7
44Nagger's DelightHVS 5a *6
45NaadenE1 5b **35
46YerthE2 5c *20
47Goodbye Enemy Airship
-
E3 6a * 
48Cistern GrooveVD 1
 Pisa Buttress 
50Y CrackVD 1
51PisaVS 4c *9
52GalileoE1 5b **108
53Pisa DirectVS 4c **36
54Pisa Super DirectHVS 5a ***240
55Stable CracksVS 4b **86
56Plastic SaddleE1 5c 2
57Typists' ChimneyD 5
58Unicorn CracksHS 4b 7
59Trungel CrackHVS 5a *2
60The Big WallE3 6a ***18
61Cover Me In Chocolate and Feed Me to the LesbiansE6 6c **2
62Big Bad WallE4 6a  
63Puzzle Weasel WallE5 6c *1
64Holme MossE1 5b *11
65Gremlin GrooveVS 4c **29
66Gremlin WallHVS 5a 2
67ArtifactVS 4c *10
68Teufel CracksD 2
69Goblin's Crack
-
VS 5a  
70Flake GrooveVD 1
71Flake CrackVD 2
72Toadstool Crack
-
VS 4c 1
73Parallel Lines
-
E2 5b  
74Pinnacle CrackHS 4b  
 Pinnacle 
76Ordinary RouteM 23
77Obverse RouteVD 1
78East FaceS 4a 1
79Pinnacle FaceVS 4c *15
 The Main Edge (right of Pinnacle) 
81PhantomE3 6a  
82NimrodS 4a 7
83Free FallE3 5c *2
84Free Fall DirectE4 6b 1
85Stag PartyVD 1
86Ladies DayS 4a *4
87Ladies' Day DirectHVS 5a  
88Incomprehensible Chewing SoundsE5 6a *1
89Middleton GrooveHS 4b 2
90Valhalla CrackVS 4c * 
91Crack and ChimneyVD  
92SampsonE3 6b ** 
93Original RouteVD *11
94West RidgeHVS 5a *1
95West Wall Route 1S 4b *11
96West Wall Route 2VD 5
97FinaleS 4a 2
98EncoreS 4a 2
99Bits and PiecesVS 5a  
100The Girdle TraverseVS 4c  
 ---------------Lower Tier--------------- 
102Left FlakeD 2
103The Business TripVD 2
104ShandyVD 8
105Lager LoutHVS 5a 1
106Pint of BeerS 4b *4
107Omelette CrackD 4
108Blocked Artery
-
S  
109The Egg BowlVD 2
110The ViceVD 12
111Main Wall ClimbVD 23
112Captain ZepHVS 5a *5
113Dirtier GrooveD 13
114The RainbowD *38
115Dirty GrooveD 15
116Left RouteS 4a 12
117Central RouteHVS 5a *7
118Right RouteVD 18
 Scrambles 
120Shining Clough2 **8
 Winter Climbs 
122Shining Clough IcefallII *3
123Shining CloughIII **28
124The Big Wall GullyII 6
 Unknown 

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