Excellent little sport crag situated in the Foret de Campagne, giving pitches up to 15m on excellent non polished rock. Good gear and 25 routes with a sector d'initiation of a further 9 short routes. No available topo and no route names or grades on the rock at the foot of the routes.
The crag is divided into two tiers by a prominent ledge and the bulk of the climbing is on the upper tier. access to this is gained by walking up the left side of the crag to a rocky bay then going through a narrow cave/slot. This cave/slot has been made the focus of a well known and clever local art work "Trompe L'Oeil".
The lower tier has three routes and the beginners area.
15 min walk in from good parking.
Park in the "Foret de Campagne" car park which is located opposite the well appointed campsite on the D35.
Leave the carpark at the end nearest the village and head up some steps to reach a wide level track running parallel to the D35. Follow this for 500m back towards the village until an ancient stone staircase can be located leading up the hill to the right. ascend this to a cave and turn left for 30m. The path forks, take the right hand, less well defined path. Another few metres up this and you will rejoin the main path which has taken a big loop round to reach the same spot. Turn right and follow this small path for about 150m, ignore the first turn off to the left and take the second which leads to the foot of the lower tier and a crag info board.
|2||Deux points c'est Tout||6b *|
|4||Pilier Classique||6a *||1|
|UPPER TIER SECTEUR DU BOMBE|
|7||Petit Vertige||6a **||3|
|8||Les Sens du Vent||6b+ *||3|
|9||Brahms nocturnes||6c+ *||2|
|10||De Bacs a Bethov||7a *||1|
|LE GRAND DIEDRE|
|13||Route F||6c *||2|
|14||Route G||6a *|
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|This crag is in the French guide Escalade en Perigord listed as Le Roc Fayard, Campagne du Bugue. With names and grades of 33 routes except for the sector initiation.|
Andy Edgar - 12/Feb/15
|Pretty cool place. Nice access with a initiation area for some tutuition or warm up and some very good routes. The grade is a bit harder of what we are used in SW England but I think this is generic to all France. Amazing views from most of the routes! Thank you for registering this carg at UKC!|
BoHeMlo - 07/Oct/14