Staden Main Quarry Derbyshire, ENGLAND
Climbs 75 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 460m a.s.l – Faces NE
A fine traditional climbing venue concentrated on two main faces of good quality, weathered limestone in an otherwise chossy quarry. Routes between 17 and 25m, mostly vertical/off vertical with good protection in the HVS to E3 range. Joint Effort Wall has the best routes; e.g. Joint Effort (HVS 5b), The Nails (HVS 5b), Liquid Courage (E1 5b) and the brilliant Cathy's Clown (E2 5c). Recommended on the the left-hand section are Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) and Telescopic Demand (E3 6a).
Limited parking at a specific spot in Cowdale (SK 084722, past first houses on right, space where road swings left - BMC Access Notice) Cowdale is reached from the A6 Bakewell to Buxton Rd. Access details on the notice MUST BE FOLLOWED to ensure access (4 min).
*** ACCESS CURRENTLY PROHIBITED ***
(UPDATED 17 MAR 11)
Following the rejection of the application mentioned below, permissive access is currently banned - the land is in private ownership and there is no public access to it.
However, the landowner has stated that this is not a permanent exclusion and has said that he will restore concessionary access for climbers after a second planning application for the water bottling plant and an appeal against refusal of an earlier application have been determined. He has clarified this by stating that restoration of concessionary access is not dependent upon the outcome of the planning process - access will be restored "whatever the outcome, one way or another".
Until then he has insisted that there is no concessionary access and has asked climbers to keep away.
ACCESS UPDATE 21 JAN 10
The quarry (also known as Cowdale Quarry) is under threat from a major industrial development. There is a planning application in to build a mineral water bottling plant (High Peak Borough Council Ref. HPK/2009/0723). If successful, access to the crag may change.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)
Climbs at this crag
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...and High Tor.|
Jonny2vests - 15/Jan/10
Certainly an above average crag, we only picked only the obvious classics but all had nice non-strenuous techie moves on quality rock with good holds and gear. I'll defo return for the other ticks. Bit of a shame to visit on a sunny day tho, brrr.
Owen W-G - 28/Sep/09
...apart from chee tor and malham. and gordale. and avon.
martin k - 22/Jun/06
By far the best inland trad limestone in the country. Much more like a sea-cliff or mountain slab than the usual choss.
Fiend - 10/Jun/06