Staden Main Quarry

Climbs 75 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 460m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
A fine traditional climbing venue concentrated on two main faces of good quality, weathered limestone in an otherwise chossy quarry. Routes between 17 and 25m, mostly vertical/off vertical with good protection in the HVS to E3 range. Joint Effort Wall has the best routes; e.g. Joint Effort (HVS 5b), The Nails (HVS 5b), Liquid Courage (E1 5b) and the brilliant Cathy's Clown (E2 5c). Recommended on the the left-hand section are Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) and Telescopic Demand (E3 6a).

Access notes
Limited parking at a specific spot in Cowdale (SK 084722, past first houses on right, space where road swings left - BMC Access Notice) Cowdale is reached from the A6 Bakewell to Buxton Rd. Access details on the notice MUST BE FOLLOWED to ensure access (4 min).

*** ACCESS CURRENTLY PROHIBITED ***

(UPDATED 17 MAR 11)

Following the rejection of the application mentioned below, permissive access is currently banned - the land is in private ownership and there is no public access to it.

However, the landowner has stated that this is not a permanent exclusion and has said that he will restore concessionary access for climbers after a second planning application for the water bottling plant and an appeal against refusal of an earlier application have been determined. He has clarified this by stating that restoration of concessionary access is not dependent upon the outcome of the planning process - access will be restored "whatever the outcome, one way or another".

Until then he has insisted that there is no concessionary access and has asked climbers to keep away.

See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61028

ACCESS UPDATE 21 JAN 10

The quarry (also known as Cowdale Quarry) is under threat from a major industrial development. There is a planning application in to build a mineral water bottling plant (High Peak Borough Council Ref. HPK/2009/0723). If successful, access to the crag may change.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 ANVIL WALL  
2 Tout ComprendreHVS 4c 2
3 A Game of ChessE5 **5
4 Hammer into AnvilE2 20
5 Nice 'n' SleazyE2 5b *17
6 96 SmearsE5 6c  
7 Rupert Bear Goes HikingVS 4c *95
8 Bimbo the Exploding Lorry Driver's Gulch EliminateHS 4b *151
9 Beau JestE1 5a 7
 CHARAS WALL  
11 The StigE2 5c 1
12 Stig of the DumpE1 5a 1
13 Emblam EmbargoHVS 5a  
14 Somebody's TrademarkHVS 5a 1
15 Silent ManoeuvresE4 5c *5
16 Telescopic DemandE3 6a **53
17 Swan SongE1 5b *59
18 Bicycle Repair ManE1 5b **328
19 Top GearE5 6b * 
20 CharasE1 5b **110
21 Mosaic PieceE4 5c 4
22 Wipe OutE3 5b *13
23 ParaplegeE3 5c **31
24 AmatarasuVS 4c 21
 JOINT EFFORT WALL  
26 SuscipiatVS 4c **236
27 SunaiE1 5b *54
28 The NailsE1 5b **254
29 Soft TimesE1 5c *47
30 Welcome to Hard TimesE3 5c **142
31 Joint EffortHVS 5a ***410
32 BadlandsE3 6a 4
33 Private GrippedE6 6b *2
34 Captain ReliableE2 5c **169
35 Extra EffortE2 5c 1
36 InvestalHVS 5a 8
37 ClowningE2 5b *5
38 Cathy's ClownE2 5c **178
39 Liquid CourageE1 5b **196
40 Sound As A TroutE3 5c 2
41 Welcome to Hard Times Direct FinishE3 5c **49
42 Cathys CourageE3 5c *3
43 Hells TeethS 1
44 The Wry-Necked GonkVS 5a 2
45 The Solo Man's PloyVS 4c *4
46 Solar PlexusVD 2
 FREEZONE WALL  
48 Conspiracy TheoryE2 5b  
49 One Foot In The CaveE3 5c *1
50 Down To the ArmpitsE2 5b * 
51 MonochlorE1 5c  
52 Slap On The PyroHVS 5b  
53 CornicureVS 4c 1
54 Don't Forget The FreezoneE1 5b 1
55 SalactolE1 5b  
 BOX RECESS WALL  
57 Locks, Box and BarrelVS 4c  
58 Thinking Outside The BoxE3 5c  
59 X-boxHVS 5a *2
60 Open the boxHVS 5a *1
61 Little Boxes on a HillsideE1 5b * 
62 Boxing Number 7E2 5c 1
63 Boxing CleverE1 5a *1
64 Forbidden RibE2 5b * 
65 The Dead Parrot SketchVS 4c 3
66 The Ministry of Silly WalksVS 4b 2
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK  
 CRAIG-Y-BICEPS  
 A GAME OF CHESS  
 BICYCLE REPAIR MAN  
71 Suck yer Thumb6b  
72 Held Her Head6b  
73 She didna Ken6b+  
74 Pinging in the Rain7c+ ** 
75 E.T.7b+ * 
76 New Nomad6b+  
77 Napped a Nod6a+  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
...and High Tor.
Jonny2vests - 15/Jan/10
Certainly an above average crag, we only picked only the obvious classics but all had nice non-strenuous techie moves on quality rock with good holds and gear. I'll defo return for the other ticks. Bit of a shame to visit on a sunny day tho, brrr.
Owen W-G - 28/Sep/09
...apart from chee tor and malham. and gordale. and avon.
martin k - 22/Jun/06
By far the best inland trad limestone in the country. Much more like a sea-cliff or mountain slab than the usual choss.
Fiend - 10/Jun/06