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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SK 083720 (OS Landranger #119)

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These details were last updated on 01/Dec/2011

Staden Main Quarry

Derbyshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 75 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 460m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
A fine traditional climbing venue concentrated on two main faces of good quality, weathered limestone in an otherwise chossy quarry. Routes between 17 and 25m, mostly vertical/off vertical with good protection in the HVS to E3 range. Joint Effort Wall has the best routes; e.g. Joint Effort (HVS 4c), The Nails (HVS 5b), Liquid Courage (E1 5b) and the brilliant Cathy's Clown (E2 5c). Recommended on the the left-hand section are Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) and Telescopic Demand (E3 6a).

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales – Met Office: Peak District

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 ANVIL WALL  
2Tout ComprendreHVS 4c 2
3A Game of ChessE5 6b *2
4Hammer into AnvilE2 5c 18
5Nice 'n' SleazyE2 5b *15
696 SmearsE5 6c  
7Rupert Bear Goes HikingVS 4c 81
8Bimbo the Exploding Lorry Driver's Gulch EliminateHS 4b *134
9Beau JestHVS 5a 4
 CHARAS WALL  
11The StigE2 5c  
12Stig of the DumpE1 5a  
13Emblam EmbargoHVS 5a  
14Somebody's TrademarkHVS 5a 1
15Silent ManoeuvresE4 5c *3
16Telescopic DemandE3 6a *45
17Swan SongE2 5b *47
18Bicycle Repair ManE1 5b **270
19Top GearE5 6b * 
20CharasE1 5b *95
21Mosaic PieceE4 5c 3
22Wipe OutE3 5b *12
23ParaplegeE3 5c *24
24AmatarasuVS 4c *16
 JOINT EFFORT WALL  
26SuscipiatVS 4c *202
27SunaiE1 5b *48
28The NailsE1 5b **200
29Soft TimesE1 5c *39
30Welcome to Hard TimesE2 5c **104
31Joint EffortHVS 5b ***326
32BadlandsE3 6a 3
33Private GrippedE6 6b *2
 Climb nameGradex
34Captain ReliableE2 5c **134
35Extra EffortE2 5c 1
36InvestalHVS 5a 9
37ClowningE2 5b *3
38Cathy's ClownE2 5c **142
39Liquid CourageE1 5b **159
40Welcome to Hard Times Direct FinishE3 5c **39
41Cathys CourageE3 5c *2
42Hells TeethS 1
43The Wry-Necked GonkVS 5a 1
44Solar PlexusVD 1
 FREEZONE WALL  
46Conspiracy TheoryE2 5b  
47One Foot In The CaveE3 5c *1
48Down To the ArmpitsE2 5b * 
49MonochlorE1 5c  
50Slap On The PyroHVS 5b  
51CornicureVS 4c 1
52Don't Forget The FreezoneE1 5b 1
53SalactolE1 5b  
 BOX RECESS WALL  
55Locks, Box and BarrelVS 4c  
56Thinking Outside The BoxE3 5c  
57X-boxHVS 5a *2
58Open the boxHVS 5a *1
59Little Boxes on a HillsideE1 5b * 
60Boxing Number 7E2 5c 1
61Boxing CleverE1 5a * 
62Forbidden RibE2 5b * 
63The Dead Parrot SketchVS 4c 2
64The Ministry of Silly WalksVS 4b 1
65Sound As A Trout *E3 5c 2

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Limited parking at a specific spot in Cowdale (SK 084722, past first houses on right, space where road swings left - BMC Access Notice) Cowdale is reached from the A6 Bakewell to Buxton Rd. Access details on the notice MUST BE FOLLOWED to ensure access (4 min).

*** ACCESS CURRENTLY PROHIBITED ***

(UPDATED 17 MAR 11)

Following the rejection of the application mentioned below, permissive access is currently banned - the land is in private ownership and there is no public access to it.

However, the landowner has stated that this is not a permanent exclusion and has said that he will restore concessionary access for climbers after a second planning application for the water bottling plant and an appeal against refusal of an earlier application have been determined. He has clarified this by stating that restoration of concessionary access is not dependent upon the outcome of the planning process - access will be restored "whatever the outcome, one way or another".

Until then he has insisted that there is no concessionary access and has asked climbers to keep away.

See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61028

ACCESS UPDATE 21 JAN 10

The quarry (also known as Cowdale Quarry) is under threat from a major industrial development. There is a planning application in to build a mineral water bottling plant (High Peak Borough Council Ref. HPK/2009/0723). If successful, access to the crag may change.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Volunteer to moderate Staden Main Quarry
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
...and High Tor.
Jonny2vests ? - 15/Jan/10

Certainly an above average crag, we only picked only the obvious classics but all had nice non-strenuous techie moves on quality rock with good holds and gear. I'll defo return for the other ticks. Bit of a shame to visit on a sunny day tho, brrr.
Owen W-G ? - 28/Sep/09

...apart from chee tor and malham. and gordale. and avon.
martin k - 22/Jun/06

By far the best inland trad limestone in the country. Much more like a sea-cliff or mountain slab than the usual choss.
Fiend - 10/Jun/06