Climbs 75
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 460m a.s.l
Faces NE

On Joint Effort at Staden © http://Climbers.net

Crag features

A fine traditional climbing venue concentrated on two main faces of good quality, weathered limestone in an otherwise chossy quarry. Routes between 17 and 25m, mostly vertical/off vertical with good protection in the HVS to E3 range. Joint Effort Wall has the best routes; e.g. Joint Effort (HVS 5b), The Nails (HVS 5b), Liquid Courage (E1 5b) and the brilliant Cathy's Clown (E2 5c). Recommended on the the left-hand section are Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) and Telescopic Demand (E3 6a).

Approach notes

Limited parking at a specific spot in Cowdale (SK 084722, past first houses on right, space where road swings left) Cowdale is reached from the A6 Bakewell to Buxton Rd.

Restricted Access

Permissive access to the crag for climbing was withdrawn in 2012 when the landowner began an application process for a water bottling plant in the quarry. The landowner stated at that time that the ban was not permanent and that concessionary access for climbers would be restored once the outcomes of any planning applications for use of the site were decided upon. This unfortunately did not happen and the landowner has not re-instated the permissive access that was promised. Further planning applications and appeals have been submitted which have not been successful so far.

 

The BMC does not support the continued ban on climbing in the quarry, but is informing climbers of the wishes of the landowner. If climbers decide to climb at Staden and are challenged by the landowner, please be polite and if asked to leave, do so as soon as you safely can.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
...and High Tor.
Jonny2vests - 15/Jan/10
Certainly an above average crag, we only picked only the obvious classics but all had nice non-strenuous techie moves on quality rock with good holds and gear. I'll defo return for the other ticks. Bit of a shame to visit on a sunny day tho, brrr.
Owen W-G - 28/Sep/09
...apart from chee tor and malham. and gordale. and avon.
martin k - 22/Jun/06
By far the best inland trad limestone in the country. Much more like a sea-cliff or mountain slab than the usual choss.
Fiend - 10/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Freezone Wall 
2Hells TeethS 1
3Conspiracy TheoryE2 5b  
4One Foot In The CaveE3 5c *1
5Down To the ArmpitsE2 5b * 
6MonochlorE1 5c  
7Slap On The PyroHVS 5b  
8CornicureVS 4c 1
9Don't Forget The FreezoneE1 5b 1
10SalactolE1 5b  
 Box Recess Wall 
12Locks, Box and BarrelVS 4c 2
13Boxed In
-
E2 5c  
14Thinking Outside The BoxE3 5c  
15X-boxHVS 5a *2
16Open the boxHVS 5a *1
17Little Boxes on a HillsideE1 5b * 
18Boxing Number 7E2 5c 1
19Boxing CleverE1 5a *1
20Forbidden RibE2 5b * 
21The Dead Parrot SketchVS 4c 3
22The Ministry of Silly WalksVS 4b 2
 A Game of Chess 
24Tout ComprendreHVS 4c 3
25Je ne Comprendre Pas
-
E5 6a  
26A Game of ChessE5 6b **5
27Hammer into AnvilE2 6a 20
28Nice 'n' SleazyE2 5b *18
2996 SmearsE5 6c  
30Rupert Bear Goes HikingVS 4c *106
31Bimbo the Exploding Lorry Driver's Gulch EliminateHS 4b *170
32Beau JestE1 5a 9
33The StigE2 5c 1
34Stig of the DumpE1 5a 1
35Emblam EmbargoHVS 5a  
36Somebody's TrademarkHVS 5a 1
 Bicycle Repair Man 
38Silent ManoeuvresE4 5c *5
39Telescopic DemandE3 6a **60
40Swan SongE1 5b *70
41Bicycle Repair ManE1 5b **374
42Top GearE5 6b * 
43CharasE1 5b **125
44Mosaic PieceE4 5c 4
45Wipe OutE3 5b *14
46ParaplegeE3 5c **39
47AmatarasuVS 4c 23
 Joint Effort Wall 
49Xenophobia
-
E1 5a *3
50SuscipiatVS 4c **276
51SunaiE1 5b *71
52The NailsE1 5b **305
53Soft TimesE1 5c *57
54Welcome to Hard TimesE2 5c **164
55Welcome to Hard Times DirectE3 5c **56
56Joint EffortHVS 5a ***487
57BadlandsE3 6a 4
58Private GrippedE6 6b *3
59Captain ReliableE2 5c **195
60Extra EffortE2 5c 1
61InvestalHVS 5a 8
62ClowningE2 5b *5
63Cathy's ClownE2 5c **204
64Cathys CourageE3 5c *6
65Liquid CourageE1 5b **227
66Sound As A TroutE3 5c 2
 The Solo Area 
68Solar Plexus
-
VD 4
69DiaphragmVS 4b 1
70Friendly Local
-
S  
71Generosity ExistsHS 4a 1
72Sun CrackHS 4a *1
73Olotson
-
S 4b  
74Flying Solo
-
E4 6a * 
75Solo
-
HS 4a  
76Fixation
-
HS 4c  
77Distant ThunderE1 5c *2
78The Wry-Necked Gonk
-
VS 5a 2
79Frozen AssetsHVS 4c *2
80The Solo Man's PloyVS 4c *4

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