Staden Main Quarry

Climbs 75 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 460m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features

A fine traditional climbing venue concentrated on two main faces of good quality, weathered limestone in an otherwise chossy quarry. Routes between 17 and 25m, mostly vertical/off vertical with good protection in the HVS to E3 range. Joint Effort Wall has the best routes; e.g. Joint Effort (HVS 5b), The Nails (HVS 5b), Liquid Courage (E1 5b) and the brilliant Cathy's Clown (E2 5c). Recommended on the the left-hand section are Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) and Telescopic Demand (E3 6a).

Access notes

Limited parking at a specific spot in Cowdale (SK 084722, past first houses on right, space where road swings left) Cowdale is reached from the A6 Bakewell to Buxton Rd.

Permissive access to the crag for climbing was withdrawn in 2012 when the landowner began an application process for a water bottling plant in the quarry. The landowner stated at that time that the ban was not permanent and that concessionary access for climbers would be restored once the outcomes of any planning applications for use of the site were decided upon. This unfortunately did not happen and the landowner has not re-instated the permissive access that was promised. Further planning applications and appeals have been submitted which have not been successful so far.

 

The BMC does not support the continued ban on climbing in the quarry, but is informing climbers of the wishes of the landowner. If climbers decide to climb at Staden and are challenged by the landowner, please be polite and if asked to leave, do so as soon as you safely can.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1 Hells TeethS 1
 A GAME OF CHESS  
3 Tout ComprendreHVS 4c 2
4 A Game of ChessE5 6b **5
5 Hammer into AnvilE2 6a 20
6 Nice 'n' SleazyE2 5b *17
7 96 SmearsE5 6c  
8 Rupert Bear Goes HikingVS 4c *97
9 Bimbo the Exploding Lorry Driver's Gulch EliminateHS 4b *153
10 Beau JestE1 5a 7
11 The StigE2 5c 1
12 Stig of the DumpE1 5a 1
13 Emblam EmbargoHVS 5a  
14 Somebody's TrademarkHVS 5a 1
 BICYCLE REPAIR MAN  
16 Silent ManoeuvresE4 5c *5
17 Telescopic DemandE3 6a **55
18 Swan SongE1 5b *60
19 Bicycle Repair ManE1 5b **339
20 Top GearE5 6b * 
21 CharasE1 5b **113
22 Mosaic PieceE4 5c 4
23 Wipe OutE3 5b *13
24 ParaplegeE3 5c **33
25 AmatarasuVS 4c 21
 JOINT EFFORT WALL  
27 SuscipiatVS 4c **242
28 SunaiE1 5b *57
29 The NailsE1 5b **269
30 Soft TimesE1 5c *49
31 Welcome to Hard TimesE2 5c **146
32 Welcome to Hard Times DirectE3 5c **49
33 Joint EffortHVS 5a ***426
34 BadlandsE3 6a 4
35 Private GrippedE6 6b *2
36 Captain ReliableE2 5c **173
37 Extra EffortE2 5c 1
38 InvestalHVS 5a 8
39 ClowningE2 5b *5
40 Cathy's ClownE2 5c **189
41 Cathys CourageE3 5c *3
42 Liquid CourageE1 5b **204
43 Sound As A TroutE3 5c 2
44 The Wry-Necked GonkVS 5a 2
45 The Solo Man's PloyVS 4c *4
46 Solar PlexusVD 2
 FREEZONE WALL  
48 Conspiracy TheoryE2 5b  
49 One Foot In The CaveE3 5c *1
50 Down To the ArmpitsE2 5b * 
51 MonochlorE1 5c  
52 Slap On The PyroHVS 5b  
53 CornicureVS 4c 1
54 Don't Forget The FreezoneE1 5b 1
55 SalactolE1 5b  
 BOX RECESS WALL  
57 Locks, Box and BarrelVS 4c  
58 Thinking Outside The BoxE3 5c  
59 X-boxHVS 5a *2
60 Open the boxHVS 5a *1
61 Little Boxes on a HillsideE1 5b * 
62 Boxing Number 7E2 5c 1
63 Boxing CleverE1 5a *1
64 Forbidden RibE2 5b * 
65 The Dead Parrot SketchVS 4c 3
66 The Ministry of Silly WalksVS 4b 2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
...and High Tor.
Jonny2vests - 15/Jan/10
Certainly an above average crag, we only picked only the obvious classics but all had nice non-strenuous techie moves on quality rock with good holds and gear. I'll defo return for the other ticks. Bit of a shame to visit on a sunny day tho, brrr.
Owen W-G - 28/Sep/09
...apart from chee tor and malham. and gordale. and avon.
martin k - 22/Jun/06
By far the best inland trad limestone in the country. Much more like a sea-cliff or mountain slab than the usual choss.
Fiend - 10/Jun/06