Staden Main Quarry

Climbs 75 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 460m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features

A fine traditional climbing venue concentrated on two main faces of good quality, weathered limestone in an otherwise chossy quarry. Routes between 17 and 25m, mostly vertical/off vertical with good protection in the HVS to E3 range. Joint Effort Wall has the best routes; e.g. Joint Effort (HVS 5b), The Nails (HVS 5b), Liquid Courage (E1 5b) and the brilliant Cathy's Clown (E2 5c). Recommended on the the left-hand section are Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) and Telescopic Demand (E3 6a).

Approach notes

Limited parking at a specific spot in Cowdale (SK 084722, past first houses on right, space where road swings left) Cowdale is reached from the A6 Bakewell to Buxton Rd.

Access notes

Permissive access to the crag for climbing was withdrawn in 2012 when the landowner began an application process for a water bottling plant in the quarry. The landowner stated at that time that the ban was not permanent and that concessionary access for climbers would be restored once the outcomes of any planning applications for use of the site were decided upon. This unfortunately did not happen and the landowner has not re-instated the permissive access that was promised. Further planning applications and appeals have been submitted which have not been successful so far.

 

The BMC does not support the continued ban on climbing in the quarry, but is informing climbers of the wishes of the landowner. If climbers decide to climb at Staden and are challenged by the landowner, please be polite and if asked to leave, do so as soon as you safely can.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone North (2015), Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District : Climbing (2008), On Peak Rock (2003), Northern Limestone Route Database (2001), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), Peak Limestone - Stoney (1987),
Out of print: Northern Limestone (2004), Peak Limestone - Fax03 (1992)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Hells TeethS 1
 A GAME OF CHESS  
3Tout ComprendreHVS 4c 3
4A Game of ChessE5 6b **5
5Hammer into AnvilE2 6a 20
6Nice 'n' SleazyE2 5b *17
796 SmearsE5 6c  
8Rupert Bear Goes HikingVS 4c *102
9Bimbo the Exploding Lorry Driver's Gulch EliminateHS 4b *166
10Beau JestE1 5a 9
11The StigE2 5c 1
12Stig of the DumpE1 5a 1
13Emblam EmbargoHVS 5a  
14Somebody's TrademarkHVS 5a 1
 BICYCLE REPAIR MAN  
16Silent ManoeuvresE4 5c *5
17Telescopic DemandE3 6a **59
18Swan SongE1 5b *68
19Bicycle Repair ManE1 5b **355
20Top GearE5 6b * 
21CharasE1 5b **118
22Mosaic PieceE4 5c 4
23Wipe OutE3 5b *13
24ParaplegeE3 5c **37
25AmatarasuVS 4c 22
 JOINT EFFORT WALL  
27SuscipiatVS 4c **262
28SunaiE1 5b *68
29The NailsE1 5b **291
30Soft TimesE1 5c *57
31Welcome to Hard TimesE2 5c **158
32Welcome to Hard Times DirectE3 5c **52
33Joint EffortHVS 5a ***459
34BadlandsE3 6a 4
35Private GrippedE6 6b *2
36Captain ReliableE2 5c **192
37Extra EffortE2 5c 1
38InvestalHVS 5a 8
39ClowningE2 5b *5
40Cathy's ClownE2 5c **197
41Cathys CourageE3 5c *5
42Liquid CourageE1 5b **220
43Sound As A TroutE3 5c 2
44The Wry-Necked GonkVS 5a 2
45The Solo Man's PloyVS 4c *4
46Solar PlexusVD 3
 FREEZONE WALL  
48Conspiracy TheoryE2 5b  
49One Foot In The CaveE3 5c *1
50Down To the ArmpitsE2 5b * 
51MonochlorE1 5c  
52Slap On The PyroHVS 5b  
53CornicureVS 4c 1
54Don't Forget The FreezoneE1 5b 1
55SalactolE1 5b  
 BOX RECESS WALL  
57Locks, Box and BarrelVS 4c  
58Thinking Outside The BoxE3 5c  
59X-boxHVS 5a *2
60Open the boxHVS 5a *1
61Little Boxes on a HillsideE1 5b * 
62Boxing Number 7E2 5c 1
63Boxing CleverE1 5a *1
64Forbidden RibE2 5b * 
65The Dead Parrot SketchVS 4c 3
66The Ministry of Silly WalksVS 4b 2
67Xenophobia *E1 5a *2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Whealiebob

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
...and High Tor.
Jonny2vests - 15/Jan/10
Certainly an above average crag, we only picked only the obvious classics but all had nice non-strenuous techie moves on quality rock with good holds and gear. I'll defo return for the other ticks. Bit of a shame to visit on a sunny day tho, brrr.
Owen W-G - 28/Sep/09
...apart from chee tor and malham. and gordale. and avon.
martin k - 22/Jun/06
By far the best inland trad limestone in the country. Much more like a sea-cliff or mountain slab than the usual choss.
Fiend - 10/Jun/06