UKC

Climbs 54
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 563m a.s.l
Faces SW

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View from top of Corma di Machaby © Graeme Barr

Crag features

Passing along the Val d'Aosta we often could give a fast look to the walls on its north (right going toward Aosta from Milan) side and the big pinkish wall after Pont San Martin had undoubtful attractives.

At about the half of the '70s the sport climbing grew more and more and the result was the hard research of bottom valley structures where to train and/or amuse all year long, without problems related to snow or ice.

Some climbers, most coming from Torino and surroundings, started a campaign to find structures alternative to the usual ones (Rocca Sbarua, Cristalliera, Parete dei Militi) and the names of Traversella and Machaby became known in rock climbing environments.

The Corma di Machaby is a strange big slab requiring a grip climbing somewhere helped by small holes and small holds on a crystalline metamorphic rock (can't define it better) well carved by the old glacier that dig the Val d'Aosta.

There a NO EASY routes on it, apart the descending path that sometimes is used by some (rare) hikers that want to have a different vision of the valley and get the summit to have a pic-nic.

ATTENTION: Lot of differences between grads indicated on Mani Nude 1 and the very harder reality!

Approach notes

The access to the wall is on the old SS26 of Val d'Aosta, between Donnas and Arnad. To get there, if you use the Mont Blanc highway you must:
- exit at Verres (if coming from Aosta) and follow for Arnad, leaving the road after some hundreds meters to get, using a narrow road the Restaurant
- exit at Pont S.Martin (if coming from Torino or Milan), follow for Donnas and after the Forte di Bard, few km get the same point as above

Just under the wall a restaurant (normally very crowded on sundays) and a big parking area for the cars.

Approach time: 5mins

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